30m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The first route up both tiers. Pitch 1 has some good bridging.
1) 4b, 20m. A crack leads to a step right into a groove then move back left again up another groove leading to the terrace.
2) 3b, 10m. Finish up the deep crack and easy chimney above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List.

gavster 24/Sep/17 2nd
with rob, Jack
Rob Royle 24/Sep/17 Lead
with Gav
freec 17/Sep/17 Lead O/S

not a good climb

gaz3212 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
Andypeak 27/Aug/17 AltLd

to grade this vs 4b is dangerous. One of the hardest routes I've ever climbed.

met1cul0us 12/Aug/17 2nd
steve7734 12/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Mucky and definitely not worth any stars

DubyaJamesDubya 05/Aug/17 AltLd

Dirty and vegetated first pitch. For the second pitch the guide recommends finishing up an alternative finish but still gives the route two (!) stars.

with Joe Harris
Oscar Popels 18/Jun/17 Lead O/S
cindylmy 18/Jun/17 2nd O/S

I'm sure being about 5foot2 was essential for the first pitch if you were only prepared to give in only 4b worth of effort. Hard very gardeneering + full of bird shit! 2nd block after the tree (?)- I did a small pull up with my left on a crimp that was just about within my reach on tip toes off a higher foothold on the right side block just to reach a jug with my right hand. Too far to bridge? We did not go up the second pitch due to nesting birds, but went up something that was equally easy- left of central climb. Loose block on top!

AndrewP 29/Sep/16 2nd
with Charlie
Hidden 29/Sep/16 Lead
Luke Jones 10/Sep/16 2nd
Karl_Harrison 10/Sep/16 Lead
with Luke
gpcomps 18/Aug/16 AltLd rpt

Lead the first pitch, fairly overgrown but quite challenging in places

with Mark L
Flavio 27/Jul/16 Solo O/S
louisr23 01/Nov/15 AltLd O/S
oscaig 11/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

P1 - which has some tough technical climbing for the grade but dirty/overgrown in places and poorly protected too. A challenging lead!

Peakpdr 10/Oct/15 -
Rob Gillespie 26/Sep/15 Lead O/S
tgeh 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Terrible climb

Dan Vaj 12/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/15 AltLd
Chris Murray 30/Jun/15 Lead

Epic route involving raptor shit, root grabs, nest grabs, digging gear placements out of mossy cracks (Peter Harding style...never thought I'd have to do that in The Peak nowadays), and an abb to retrieve lost gear. Did I mention the raptor shit?

DanChad 30/Jun/15 2nd O/S

Very dirty but had a nice back-and-footing section. Only did the first pitch then finished up Final Crack.

Krista 28/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Mike Peak
mattgrange 21/Sep/14 AltLd

LP1.Disjointed and festooned with bird crap, but still some testing & interesting moves

gpcomps 31/Aug/14 2nd O/S
with Andrew
oddtoast 23/Aug/14 2nd


with Gav
Hidden 23/Aug/14 Lead
chris warner 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Dhan Ghale
chris warner 24/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Dhan Ghale
Hidden 20/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Sep/13 2nd
Rob Royle 14/Sep/13 Lead

Great climb! Couple of difficult moves that tested me.....

with Steph
Hidden 01/Jul/13 AltLd
Hidden 05/May/13 AltLd O/S
JRigby 05/May/13 AltLd
with Will
johnself1603 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

clearly not worth 2 stars it gets in the BMC guide, led both pitches together

with Jim
Jim Slater 27/Apr/13 2nd O/S
kabutsu ??/2013 -
Hidden 22/Sep/12 -
Thinker01 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
yarrow 26/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P1 (4b)

with Becky B
beckybutcher91 26/Feb/12 AltLd
with Harry Yarrow
Hidden 02/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Joey C 02/Oct/11 2nd O/S
Gazleah 18/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with serge
Hidden 10/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Allan Winstanley 03/Sep/11 AltLd

Ken led the first pitch which was covered in vegetation and not particularly enjoyable.

with Ken
antonymcphillips ?/Sep/11 AltLd
stronglikebear 27/Jul/11 AltLd
Johnny B Diggerman 27/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

I led first pitch and Dan the second pitch. Found first pitch to be green, grubby and overgrown. Not very enjoyable. Second pitch was better. Not worth the 1 star it gets.

with Dan L
Hidden 26/Jul/11 Solo O/S
Kylie 03/Jul/11 AltLd dog

Horrible doesn't come close to describing this route. Covered in bird shit and animal bones. A couple of nice moves on the top section. Would not recommend to a friend! I lead the second pitch. Got some help from the rope getting over a bit move on the first pitch.

mullermn 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Me P1, Kylie P2. Terrible climb, god knows how bad your regular climbs have to be for you to consider this worth a star. Covered in bird shit, greenery, dead birds (lots) and horrendous amounts of grass pollen. This route makes me want to physically assault the guide book author. Some small redeeming moves at the very top of P1.

masa-alpin 06/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Finished the second pitch on Final Crack.

with Michelle A
keith leonard ??/2011 -
jimmys 17/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
with Markus
hotfeet 04/Sep/10 Lead
donkster 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
with pete buswell, ben
Marvino 02/Aug/10 Lead

Interesting, fun moves on the first pitch. Finished up Final Crack. Overall a great climb.

31770 01/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
with Jesse Dufton
stratandrew 07/Jul/10 AltLd
with Andy Grantham
nvalentine760 13/Jun/09 AltLd O/S

Sopping wet

tontopink 07/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Panda 30/May/09 -
Oceanic 30/May/09 -
superturbo 15/Mar/09 Lead O/S
Kirill 12/Oct/08 AltLd

Led second pitch. Not very pleasant climb, dirty and damp, also slipped and fell when seconding the first pitch.

daviesp2 20/Sep/08 AltLd
AndyM-LVB 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Brendan Ferguson
ianslade 03/Aug/08 Lead O/S
gareth r 15/Jun/08 AltLd O/S


with Hywel
eagleopus 15/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
with Gareth
smolders 08/Jun/08 AltLd O/S

1 (4b) smolders, 2 (3c) Jason vegetated and dirty

with Jason K
kleinej 08/Jun/08 AltLd

Martin did the bird shit pitch (P1) and I did the bird nest pitch (P2). Nice moves on P1 but can't recommend this climb.

with Martin
a_d_tru 31/May/08 AltLd
with Alistair, Claire
manwithacam 01/Apr/08 -
with Alex
Hidden 26/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/07 2nd O/S
ebunick 08/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Jez
davek 19/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Duncan
duncan 19/Apr/07 2nd
with Dave K
Danos ?/Apr/07 Lead
with Ed
Hidden ??/2007 Lead
trevor macalonan ??/2007 2nd RP
with Tim
Hidden 08/Aug/06 2nd O/S
Caralynh 08/Aug/06 Lead O/S

Climbed as single pitch

Hidden 28/Apr/06 -
Andrew Abraham ?/Jul/05 2nd
A Crook 13/Mar/05 AltLd O/S

Very green, but a nice flared Bridging move

James B 30/May/04 -
ASchwirtz 16/Aug/03 Lead O/S

shona lead second pitch

with Shona D'arcy
Roget 20/Aug/91 Solo O/S
SimonN 28/Apr/91 2nd
Nigel Bond 03/Nov/85 Lead
with Bryn Roberts
Rog Wilko ?/Mar/71 AltLd
with ??
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High HVS
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High HS
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Votes cast 22
High 4c
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High 4b
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Votes cast 22
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