UKC

28m.

Rockfax Description
Another great route - sustained and high in the grade. Head up the steep bulging crack left of the arete on jams to a ledge, then continue by more jamming (possible stance on The Pulpit). Step back down, traverse left to the bulging crack and storm this by more glorious jamming. © Rockfax

FA. (pitch 2) Joe Brown 1952. Before this it finished up Great Chimney..

Ticklists

The 100 Best UK VS routes? , The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , Western Peak Grit 100 VD - VS , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , 100 Western Grit Stars , Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Hen Cloud , An attempt at a definitive list of Joe Brown's FA/FFA in the Peak District , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Ultimate List of Peak District Crack Climbs , Absolutely STOKEd on trent (road to western grit mastery) , Peak grit , Roaches - to do - VD - VS , Hen Cloud crack school

Feedback

User Date Notes
supermembrane 25 Sep, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Bottom half no problem with solid jams. Then traverse left. Bulging crack was tough and found the jamming awkward. Delicate feet. Then had to psych myself for the final wife exit crack. Slopey slog to get over the top but managed to make it. I’ve done loads of VS’s and this one of the toughest
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Bottom half no problem with solid jams. Then traverse left. Bulging crack was tough and found the jamming awkward. Delicate feet. Then had to psych myself for the final wife exit crack. Slopey slog to get over the top but managed to make it. I’ve done loads of VS’s and this one of the toughest
SARS 23 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Oh yeah, watch out for rope drag if you do the original variation. I almost got pulled off out of the chimney.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Oh yeah, watch out for rope drag if you do the original variation. I almost got pulled off out of the chimney.
SARS 23 Sep, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome climbing. Did it about a year ago. Lead it with a "solid" VS/HVS second who promptly fell off the start. Then watched a "solid" E1 leader pull on gear at the start. Ha ha... it's all about technique.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome climbing. Did it about a year ago. Lead it with a "solid" VS/HVS second who promptly fell off the start. Then watched a "solid" E1 leader pull on gear at the start. Ha ha... it's all about technique.
MeMeMe 6 Sep, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Great jams at the start which is just as well as you need to haul on them to get up the first bit. Rest of route is a little easier and it's all very pleasant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great jams at the start which is just as well as you need to haul on them to get up the first bit. Rest of route is a little easier and it's all very pleasant.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 116
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 112
Votes cast 100
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Snakes Alive

Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovedale)

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