Rockfax Description
Another great route - sustained and high in the grade. Head up the steep bulging crack left of the arete on jams to a ledge, then continue by more jamming (possible stance on The Pulpit). Step back down, traverse left to the bulging crack and storm this by more glorious jamming. © Rockfax
FA. (pitch 2) Joe Brown 1952. Before this it finished up Great Chimney..
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User | Date | Notes | ||
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supermembrane | 25 Sep, 2022 |
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βeta: Bottom half no problem with solid jams. Then traverse left. Bulging crack was tough and found the jamming awkward. Delicate feet. Then had to psych myself for the final wife exit crack. Slopey slog to get over the top but managed to make it. I’ve done loads of VS’s and this one of the toughest | βeta? | |
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βeta: Bottom half no problem with solid jams. Then traverse left. Bulging crack was tough and found the jamming awkward. Delicate feet. Then had to psych myself for the final wife exit crack. Slopey slog to get over the top but managed to make it. I’ve done loads of VS’s and this one of the toughest |
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SARS | 23 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Oh yeah, watch out for rope drag if you do the original variation. I almost got pulled off out of the chimney. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Oh yeah, watch out for rope drag if you do the original variation. I almost got pulled off out of the chimney. |
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SARS | 23 Sep, 2005 |
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βeta: Awesome climbing. Did it about a year ago. Lead it with a "solid" VS/HVS second who promptly fell off the start. Then watched a "solid" E1 leader pull on gear at the start. Ha ha... it's all about technique. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Awesome climbing. Did it about a year ago. Lead it with a "solid" VS/HVS second who promptly fell off the start. Then watched a "solid" E1 leader pull on gear at the start. Ha ha... it's all about technique. |
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MeMeMe | 6 Sep, 2004 |
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βeta: Great jams at the start which is just as well as you need to haul on them to get up the first bit. Rest of route is a little easier and it's all very pleasant. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Great jams at the start which is just as well as you need to haul on them to get up the first bit. Rest of route is a little easier and it's all very pleasant. |
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Grade: VS 4c ***
(Dovedale)