Rockfax Description
18m. The steep cracks give a steep and superb pitch, it is solid Hen Cloud HVS value too! Layaways and jugs lead to a tricky entry into a narrow groove/chimney which requires a bit of udgery before things ease. Well protected throughout. © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, late 1950s 1957

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Staffordshire Grit Challenge - Brown-Whillans Day Out, Peak Rock/7/8/Biven-Peck Partnership/1950's a Developing Decade, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

hfotheri 28/Oct/17 Lead dog

Great route but felt hard for hvs! Some interesting body jamming at the top!

with simon
James Oakes 24/Sep/17 2nd rpt
patrickcd 17/Sep/17 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 02/Sep/17 Lead G/U
Rob Kinsey 27/Aug/17 Lead O/S

+ Sennen

with Sofie
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 13/Aug/17 2nd
with Deacon
Hidden 13/Aug/17 Lead
kermit_uk 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Tough going this one. Tired from day before but E1 felt a bit more likely. I struggled getting into top groove but eventually found a way. Great route. I think.

deacondeacon 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Easier than Bachelors. Nice route.

Hidden 03/Jun/17 2nd
wil_perry 08/May/17 2nd
Hidden 07/May/17 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/May/17 Lead
Neil McA 22/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Jake McAdie
DanOsb 08/Apr/17 2nd
w.pettet-smith 08/Apr/17 Lead
with DanOsb
Mike W 04/Apr/17 Lead
Andrew Abraham 04/Apr/17 2nd rpt
marconi 20/Feb/17 Lead dog

Nails. Pumped out, disco leg, lobbed off. Really good route!

Guy Bennell ??/2017 2nd
Joecartmell ??/2017 TR

Need to lead!

benw681 22/Oct/16 Lead rpt

Gritstone tufa climbing. One of the best

with Jake
w-watson 09/Oct/16 2nd
Francois R 09/Oct/16 Lead
with Will, Pok
martinbettridge06 08/Oct/16 Lead G/U

hard work

manwithacam 02/Oct/16 2nd

Brilliant route, great line up the wall

with Alan
MichaelGallimore 25/Sep/16 2nd O/S
Flavio 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S
benw681 24/Sep/16 Lead dog

no udge, tough 1st route on windy day

with Hannah
Lenny 23/Sep/16 Lead O/S
with James. D
onlyfoddington 18/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Didn't intend to lead it, but glad I did. Summoned a surprising amount of determination to get up to the wide crack, and then got stuck (not literally). Spent for ever not really trying to move.

with Tim
Wendy Watthews 18/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with JakeB.
Andrew Abraham 18/Sep/16 2nd rpt
Hidden 18/Sep/16 Lead dog
TimCul 18/Sep/16 2nd dog
Hidden 10/Sep/16 2nd O/S
ig248 10/Sep/16 Lead dnf

Need to get into the top chimney next time

with Kirill
Ilia Nadyrbayev 10/Sep/16 2nd
Kirill 10/Sep/16 Lead dog
with Igor, Ilia
Andrew Abraham ?/Aug/16 Lead rpt
with Andi T, Chriswallis2
Andrew Abraham 02/Jun/16 Lead dog

wrong sequence, got pumped :(

with Harry Ratclif
Stroppy 28/May/16 Lead O/S

Would probably stick with HVS for this, great route with lovely moves, didn't feel too taxing.

Sam Husband 28/May/16 2nd O/S
with Ed
mossrug 16/May/16 Lead dnf

Eliminated! Tricky start put us off. Next time!

with Rob
Jan.Hrb 08/May/16 Lead O/S
with George
georgenvk 08/May/16 2nd O/S
with Hrb
Hidden 12/Mar/16 2nd O/S
Droyd 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S
with Dan
Tom McCabe 12/Mar/16 Lead O/S

True onsight- only worked out what route it was after the chimney! Great climb.

davebrox ??/2016 -
Joecartmell 11/Oct/15 TR

Bottom Roped

thrutch 03/Oct/15 Lead O/S
with Sven
tonevert 26/Sep/15 Lead dog

missed a foot edge so came off

with derryn, yvette
Mark Stevenson 21/Sep/15 Lead
matt1024 19/Sep/15 2nd dog
with Mark Stevenson
ataraxiasiege 11/Sep/15 2nd dog
sampollitt 09/Sep/15 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S
tgeh 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Amazing climb, thought the first moves off the ground are the hardest, cheeky butterfly jam to get into the off width

with dan geh
Dan Geh 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S

HVS. Felt easier than bachelors left hand and delstree. Jams and jugs all the way.

Gabe Oliver 02/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Last route of the day; absolutely superb! Enjoyed it more than BLH

George Killaspy 02/Aug/15 2nd
Rollo 23/Jul/15 Lead dog
with Ben M, jsk
jennysknight 23/Jul/15 2nd

Left one tiny nut for Ben

with Roly
benwmorgan 23/Jul/15 2nd β
with Rollo
Bernie L 11/Jul/15 Lead O/S
RobScarisbrick 11/Jul/15 2nd dog

Lot of dogging that weekend

with Bernie
danielroymoss 04/Jul/15 -

beautiful route and day

Julesthe1st 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Harder than it looks

with Robin
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/15 -
James Oakes 26/May/15 Lead O/S
Ram MkiV 26/May/15 2nd O/S
with noaks
PeteWilson 26/Apr/15 Lead O/S

very well protected, but steep, pumpy and very sustained, barely a move on it less than 5b, reckon its probably worth e1 for effort!

with John R, Andrew Graham
Coel Hellier 18/Apr/15 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Apr/15 Lead dog
Hidden 08/Apr/15 2nd rpt
jonnie3430 03/Apr/15 Lead
with Will, Henry
Seymore Butt ??/2015 -
Hidden 10/Nov/14 Lead
DWebs 26/Oct/14 2nd dog
natalio 28/Sep/14 2nd dog

The guidebook gives it HVS, but I found all the climbs in Hen Cloud a bit hard for the grade.

with Chris B
switch 28/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with James
brian watson 27/Sep/14 Lead dog
Paul ablitt 07/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Sarah
nicolat ?/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Brannock 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S
soph 23/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Lindy Smith
Nick Russell 21/Jul/14 Lead rpt

26/31. Without clipping a wire to my harness this time. Couldn't remember the top section, grateful for Alex's beta there.

Alex Winter 21/Jul/14 2nd rpt

26 on Staffordshire nose.

with Nick
soph 15/Jul/14 Lead rpt
with Lindy Smith
Longsufferingropeholder 12/Jul/14 Lead O/S
NickyC 12/Jul/14 Lead
with Zain Karim
dan gibson 29/Jun/14 -
with michael porter
Hidden 29/Jun/14 2nd rpt
Jack93 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Charlie Low 21/Jun/14 2nd dog
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Mel Brown
TwofoZeus ?/May/14 AltLd
dtbrad 19/Apr/14 2nd O/S
Dingchav 19/Apr/14 Lead


soph 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
with Lindy Smith
Hidden 01/Mar/14 Lead β
Hidden ??/2014 -
msoldn 01/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Nadin
Hidden 20/Sep/13 TR dog
Bloke on a Rope 03/Sep/13 Lead O/S

What an awesome climb! just when you think the hard climbings done along comes the crux move into the off width! Watch the pocket its sharp!

with Matt
Climbster 03/Sep/13 2nd β
with Ian
Alistair Corbett 22/Aug/13 2nd
with Sam hamer
andi turner 22/Jul/13 AltLd
with pete bridgwood
Mike Turner 20/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Bob Butcher, Martin Hore
R0bbie 21/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with leighn
Hidden 20/Jun/13 2nd O/S
Chriswallis2 15/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Anna
chrisbussell 11/Jun/13 2nd
with Tim O'Neill
HassenBali 09/Jun/13 Lead dnf
with Chris C
WillDoyle 09/Jun/13 Lead dog
with Mike
vassy05 ?/Jun/13 -
Alex Winter 31/May/13 Lead O/S

Enjoyed this. Useful butterfly jam in the final groove.

sputnik 26/May/13 Lead O/S
pipof747 19/May/13 Lead O/S
RM199 05/May/13 Lead dog

2 rests in the same place, just before the wide crack, 1 move really! should have had it

Jonathan Hall 05/May/13 2nd
markfairbank 05/May/13 Lead dog
Hannes B 06/Apr/13 2nd
with DebsB
Hidden 06/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mchonofsky 03/Apr/13 2nd dog
Helen Gibson 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

crux was bottom bit, the top bit is wide but is ok used a camalot 2 to protect.

with Paul
Hidden 22/Sep/12 2nd O/S
Brown 22/Sep/12 Lead

Number Ten of the attempt on the Staffordshire Nose

with Andy R
BelayBunney 22/Sep/12 2nd dog

Barn-doored when got out of sequence going for the flake 1/2 way up. Very annoying. Need to improve my jamming!

francois 22/Sep/12 Lead dog

Turns out jamming was required on this one.

with Chris
RFWilkie 28/Jul/12 2nd dog

Annoyed to slip off this, just very tired after too many days (8) on.

with Mark
Thinker01 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Wow, that wasn't easy! Both seconds did me the favour of falling off which made me feel much better about the amount of time i spent trying to summon up the nerve to squirm into the groove at the top.

with Becster, Ralph Wilkinson
becster 28/Jul/12 2nd
darlolad 23/Jul/12 2nd
stuaart 04/Jun/12 2nd


with Neil Redgrave
clipskipper 04/Jun/12 2nd β

Tough route - defeated by a lack of off-width skills, and saved by a questionable nut :-)

with Andy Gardner
Andy Peak 1 04/Jun/12 -
with lee mercer
Nick Russell 07/Apr/12 Lead RP

Bit of a mare: fell on the first attempt after clipping a runner directly to my harness. Didn't realise until about 1m above it, without the energy to downclimb and had to take the fall... Not a good situation. Lowered to inspect a sore ankle then finished the route from the ground

SJS 07/Apr/12 2nd
with Nick
Mike W 23/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hannes B 19/Feb/12 2nd
with Tom
Don Jebus 13/Jan/12 2nd O/S
joese7en 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2012 -
cat22 06/Nov/11 2nd O/S
with Mike
mark20 15/Oct/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 15/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Mark R
Graeme Hammond 18/Sep/11 Lead O/S

Excellent climbing and a great line. Getting established in the crack to start with felt the hardest bit, then easy jamming until the wide section. Which I was expecting a horror show at from its reputation but it seemed fairly straight forward just a bit of udging and a good small wire too.

with Becky E
Hidden 10/Sep/11 Lead dnf
btc 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
with ian lovatt
James Oswald 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Jim Slater 24/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
alaan 25/May/11 Lead O/S
with Katy
rob.s22 ?/May/11 Lead O/S

Old school HVS

with S.B
Rich Kirby 20/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Ruth
Jon Read 16/Apr/11 2nd
with Brian Wyvill
Rich Guest 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Jams and Cams, sent straight from heaven! Followed by a kind of none-move which it is probably possible to make a drama out of unless you're careful. Lovely climbing and possibly one of the easiest E1 in the world??

Hidden 08/Apr/11 Lead O/S
tatz45 14/Mar/11 Lead O/S
PeteH 21/Jan/11 Lead O/S
with Nick
Hidden ??/2011 -
The Grist 07/Nov/10 Lead O/S
with Nick Allsop
thomasadixon 30/Oct/10 2nd O/S

Nails at HVS, but probably still HVS.

with Mike
Hidden 09/Oct/10 2nd O/S
Martin Haworth 26/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Andy
Andrew Sloan 26/Sep/10 2nd dog
sam corbett 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Scary as shit not a great route to do when you haven't lead on grit for 3 months!

with Alistair Corbett
Alistair Corbett 07/Sep/10 2nd
hotfeet 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Aug/10 2nd
al99 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Aug/10 2nd rpt
Dave Turnbull, BMC 10/Aug/10 Lead O/S
feilx 24/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hannes B 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Neil P
Hidden 05/Jun/10 2nd β
Ian Broome 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S

tricky top off width, wobble, no gear, maybe worth taking some big cams. Top was the crux for me

Tim M 05/Jun/10 2nd
chris sm 05/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Mike Hegarty 25/May/10 Lead dog

Had to rest on gear near the start of route. Very hot day to choose to climb this one..!

with Lee
miro 16/May/10 Lead O/S

Hard and pumpy for that easy grade(hvs). But superb climb and very well protected

Pete Graham 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Pown 15/May/10 2nd O/S
GF ??/2010 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 Lead
Hidden ??/2010 -
dannyboy83 27/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
mattyork2 26/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Johnny Richard
Sankey 29/Aug/09 2nd dog
with Luke
jonka ?/Aug/09 Lead
with sean
Mr Wild 25/Jul/09 Lead O/S


Dave Rumney 18/Jul/09 Lead
with Tanya Milner
craig d 04/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Mick Fox
Jim Slater 21/Jun/09 Lead dog

One fall exiting crack.

with Trevor Wilson
A Downing 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S


with Dan & Gaz
JEP 16/Jun/09 2nd
DavidEvans 23/Apr/09 2nd
Hidden 11/Apr/09 Lead O/S
dan gibson 11/Apr/09 Lead rpt
Mark Dennison 05/Apr/09 2nd O/S
tom.ireson 15/Mar/09 Lead dnf

Alot harder than it looks! no decent rests and an absolutely heinous wide crack near the top which I could not get into at all.

with David Proctor
deejmonkey ??/2009 Lead
with Tom
keith leonard ??/2009 Lead
tomparrott ??/2009 2nd
with DJ
Hidden 01/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Nov/08 Lead
Hidden 19/Sep/08 2nd dog
dave o 24/Aug/08 Lead O/S
with Julia H
Hidden 15/Jun/08 Lead O/S
cem 31/May/08 Lead rpt

Clean this time

with Mark O'Neill
Misha 03/May/08 Lead dog

Not a good idea after getting fairly pumped on Bachelor's Left Hand... Fell off twice - foot slipped on the bottom section and pumped out half way up! Can't ever have three stars in my book due to that horrible offwidth at the top. Good jamming practice though...

Hidden 16/Feb/08 Lead rpt
sadams 09/Feb/08 Lead
with Eric Hildrew
noddy ??/2008 -
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Sean Kelly ??/2008 -
mark s 29/Sep/07 Lead
with andi t
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 15/Sep/07 Lead rpt
with Rachel Hassall
andybirtwistle 13/Sep/07 Lead
with Andy Grondowski
BallsofBritishSteel 10/Sep/07 2nd dog
with Charles
shoulders 09/Sep/07 Lead
tonanf 02/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with burt
nige 08/Jul/07 Lead
with dave kells
juza 23/Jun/07 -
Stig 19/Jun/07 Lead dog
with Goi
DavidEvans 31/May/07 Lead O/S
tom_1985 01/May/07 Lead O/S
with Charlie T
gregoritos ?/Apr/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Mar/07 2nd
Hidden 04/Feb/07 Lead
Karl Wooffindin ??/2007 2nd O/S
with Scott Mclellan
Hidden 07/Nov/06 2nd
EAYL 30/Aug/06 2nd
with Mat J
rilem 29/Jul/06 2nd
with Ian W
dan gibson 24/Jun/06 Lead rpt
with karing
AJ007 24/Jun/06 Lead dog
with Brian
Nicos 11/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with keith leonard
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 24/Sep/05 2nd
with Eric Hildrew
Lawrence Eccles 03/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with A. Crook
Hidden ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
Rob Davies 07/Aug/05 Lead
with Phil Ashton
mark s ??/2005 -
nickdonohue ?/Nov/04 Lead
with Jim Barradale
MeMeMe ?/Sep/04 Lead RP

Fell off at the start when yanking a nut to see if it was in well (and landed on ground and started again from there), so didn't exactly 'work' it, but that's the closest description!

Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Jul/03 2nd
cem 15/Jun/03 Lead dog

1 rest

with Rod Strachan
Jon Read ?/Jun/03 Lead O/S

The best HVS/E1 of Hen Cloud. Miles better than BLH.

with John H. Bull & Dave Garnett
Hidden 25/Jul/02 Lead
Gus ??/2002 -
DubyaJamesDubya ?/Jun/01 Lead O/S
with Nik Howard
nickcanute ??/2000 Lead O/S
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Sep/99 2nd
Hidden 25/May/97 Lead O/S
Marti999 ??/1995 Lead
nokishatov 12/Jul/94 Lead
ste_d 12/Jun/94 Lead O/S
with mik
Hidden 17/Jul/92 Lead
Dave Musgrove 20/Jun/92 2nd
with Pete Finklaire
sadams 30/Aug/90 Lead O/S
with Mark Bonham
Raggar 28/Jul/90 2nd
with Steve B
Roget 26/May/90 Lead O/S
with jim
Rob Davies ?/Jun/88 2nd
uphillnow ?/Jul/86 Lead
Ken Taylor 21/Sep/82 2nd
with Richard Toon, Andy Chadwick
Hidden 28/Aug/82 Lead
Hidden 07/Jun/81 Lead
Mark Kemball 04/Jun/77 Lead dnf
rogerskews 04/Jun/74 -
with Paul Barrow
clanger ??/1972 -
36 users have this on their wishlist
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 83
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 81
Votes cast 78
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set