Rockfax Description
20m. The upper half of the face to the right of the chimney is classy and intense. Runners in the gully and a second belayer away to the right should reduce the danger on the nasty sequence to gain the front face. From a good flake (runners) make one hard move using a mono and you're almost there - just go! Using the arete start of Chiaroscuro (from the gully) ups the grade to E6. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A superb 1970s gift from John Allen. From just above half-way up Rib Chimney (and a high side-runner in that route), a line of small pockets and flanges lead out an anxious position on the arête. A tricky move up gains a flake (don't pull too hard on it!) and some welcome gear. Now, make the crux move up using a small pocket to better holds, some uninspiring gear and an awkward and prolonged exit. The crucial flake is best treated with caution.

FA. John Allen 1976

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, World Graded List, Peak Rock/12/The New Golden Age, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

northy1983 18/Mar/16 Lead

Maybe not the best day to do it. But certainly is one of the best E5's in town. Megatron!!!

with barnacle becky
pipof747 03/May/14 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2014 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 18/Jul/99 Lead β

ab inspected gear first. Fantastic route.

4 users have this on their wishlist
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 10
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 9