10m.

Rockfax Description
Heart-stoppingly precarious! The crescent-shaped ramp is gained by a hard rock-over. Once established pad carefully up and right to glory. The route is as unprotected as it looks, the finish is very fluffable and the landing truly awful. © Rockfax

FA. Gary Gibson 1980

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Peak Rock/14/Gritstone After the Gold Rush, Ultimate E5 ticklist, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Col Allott 9 Oct, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: perhaps looks like a soft touch from the bottom, but the crux final moves, rocking over the ripple feel very exposed all of a sudden.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: perhaps looks like a soft touch from the bottom, but the crux final moves, rocking over the ripple feel very exposed all of a sudden.
Dave Pritchard 7 Mar, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: It's a long time since I did it (onsight 12 years ago), but at the time I thought it a soft touch for E5 6a.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: It's a long time since I did it (onsight 12 years ago), but at the time I thought it a soft touch for E5 6a.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
eazyclimbing 8 Jan Solo β Pretty much onsight although saw a few pics of rock over before trying it. Steady until then mantle which was terrifying.
with henry
Pretty much onsight although saw a few pics of rock over before trying it. Steady until then mantle which was terrifying.
with henry
Andy Peak 1 5 Feb, 2017 TR Damp slab on the top put me off the lead , climbed it clean twice in two tries, definitely one to solo.
Damp slab on the top put me off the lead , climbed it clean twice in two tries, definitely one to solo.
C coldwell-storry 28 Dec, 2016 Solo O/S
with rob lay
with rob lay
PeteWilson 16 Oct, 2015 Solo RP finally! a route I have wanted to do ever since I first saw it as a novice climber, very pleased to get it done after so long aspiring to it :)
with Andrew Graham, Andi T, Pete B, Dave
finally! a route I have wanted to do ever since I first saw it as a novice climber, very pleased to get it done after so long aspiring to it :)
with Andrew Graham, Andi T, Pete B, Dave
andrew549 7 Mar, 2015 TR dnf
mikespooner 7 Mar, 2015 TR RP Clean second go. Very precarious, especially on a blustery day!
Clean second go. Very precarious, especially on a blustery day!
Andrew Abraham 18 Feb, 2015 Solo RP
with Ceara
with Ceara
hamer89 7 Feb, 2015 Solo RP Beautiful snowy day in Staffordshire. Had the whole cliff to myself. Brilliant route up a slab, great solo.
Beautiful snowy day in Staffordshire. Had the whole cliff to myself. Brilliant route up a slab, great solo.
Hidden ??, 2015 -
philhilo 16 Oct, 2014 TR RP Solo on the Traxion first proper route. Standard grit slab. 2 laps but second tricky in the rain!
Solo on the Traxion first proper route. Standard grit slab. 2 laps but second tricky in the rain!
Andrew Abraham 3 Sep, 2014 TR
with Ky
with Ky
Ky 3 Sep, 2014 TR O/S Bit to greasy to do today
Bit to greasy to do today
p.j.deacon 16 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
WillDoyle 26 May, 2014 Solo O/S
sgl0jd ?May, 2014 TR O/S TR the day before a knee op. Will come back and try again in the autumn
TR the day before a knee op. Will come back and try again in the autumn
Hidden 4 Apr, 2014 Solo RP
Andy Fielding 8 Sep, 2013 TR
with Sandrex
with Sandrex
Hidden 17 Aug, 2013 TR β
sam corbett ?Aug, 2013 TR
Dave138 27 Jul, 2013 TR RP
northy1983 4 May, 2013 Solo RP about v4. fell off the start moves!!!
about v4. fell off the start moves!!!
Keendan 20 Apr, 2013 Solo dnf Didn't fancy the crux so started downclimbing then slipped off and tumbled over the step below. Only a cut hand. It pays to wear a helmet even on solos.
Didn't fancy the crux so started downclimbing then slipped off and tumbled over the step below. Only a cut hand. It pays to wear a helmet even on solos.
jacobjacob 17 Feb, 2013 Solo rpt
Tom Briggs 12 May, 2012 Solo O/S
schwenk 4 Mar, 2012 TR
Ed Booth 2 Feb, 2012 Solo dnf Another dabble, didnt commit. Forgot how scary it is to reverse from the ripple onto the smear. maybe should just top rope it!
with Alec Thomas
Another dabble, didnt commit. Forgot how scary it is to reverse from the ripple onto the smear. maybe should just top rope it!
with Alec Thomas
jack1996 6 Nov, 2011 TR β Would love to solo when the weather is colder! nice route and with a strange top sequence!
with tom s, craigf
Would love to solo when the weather is colder! nice route and with a strange top sequence!
with tom s, craigf
Hidden 19 Sep, 2011 TR rpt
Hidden 29 Jul, 2011 TR RP
Hidden 26 Jun, 2011 TR O/S
pipof747 5 Jun, 2011 Solo RP
Hidden 9 Apr, 2011 TR dog
CharlieMack 6 Apr, 2011 TR rpt Deffinatly taking the rope off next time when its not so windy.
with David
Deffinatly taking the rope off next time when its not so windy.
with David
jacobjacob 8 Feb, 2011 Solo O/S wanted to do this for ages, felt easy in the end... chuffed!
wanted to do this for ages, felt easy in the end... chuffed!
Hidden 9 Sep, 2010 TR O/S
LittleClimbingMaria 28 Jun, 2010 -
Jacob Bloodworth ?Feb, 2010 Solo RP
Dave138 ??, 2010 -
Ebarnes ??, 2010 -
Hidden ??, 2010 -
CharlieMack 23 Oct, 2009 TR O/S
Hidden 23 Oct, 2009 TR
neilpotter 26 May, 2009 TR dog
Jim Slater 9 May, 2009 TR dog
with rob wmc
with rob wmc
Andy Nicholson ?Apr, 2009 2nd O/S
MYSSAK 26 Apr, 2008 Solo rpt
Somerset swede basher 25 Apr, 2008 Solo O/S
with Martin Cleaver
with Martin Cleaver
daveagriff ??, 2008 TR
rocktigger ??, 2008 TR dog
MYSSAK 16 Sep, 2007 Solo RP
v.jester 16 Sep, 2007 Solo RP
with Mysak
with Mysak
Mike Hargreaves 21 Apr, 2007 TR dnf
with Dave Atkinson
with Dave Atkinson
Hidden ??, 2007 Solo RP
alaan 6 Aug, 2006 TR O/S one for the winter, can't wait!
with Aly
one for the winter, can't wait!
with Aly
Hidden ?Apr, 2005 TR dog
Hidden ??, 2005 -
Hidden ??, 2005 Solo RP
dannyboy83 ?Jun, 2004 Solo RP
nige 18 Feb, 2004 Solo RP
Hidden ?Jun, 2003 Solo RP
spidey ??, 2002 Solo RP
with DANNY
with DANNY
Mark Riley ?May, 2001 TR O/S
mark s ??, 2001 Solo RP
Gus ?Nov, 2000 Solo 1st E5!
1st E5!
Hidden 22 Oct, 2000 TR
Becca_itd 22 Oct, 2000 TR
Hidden 22 Oct, 2000 TR
Laramadness 27 Jun, 2000 TR RP clean 2nd, 3rd, 4th goes
clean 2nd, 3rd, 4th goes
tlr ??, 2000 TR
chris sm 14 Jul, 1999 TR O/S
with Pippa Froggatt
with Pippa Froggatt
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 2 May, 1999 TR dog
with Sven
with Sven
Dave Musgrove Jnr 14 Mar, 1998 Solo O/S
Hidden 18 Jul, 1997 TR
SR1970 ?Apr, 1996 Solo RP
greenroom ??, 1996 Solo RP
robtrooper ??, 1996 -
Ian Archer 7 Jul, 1994 TR RP
with CDW
with CDW
chris d williams 7 Jul, 1994 TR rush of blood to the head!!!
rush of blood to the head!!!
Hidden 9 Sep, 1992 TR
simes303 ??, 1992 Solo G/U Totally messed up rockover on onsight attempt. Couldn't walk properly for two weeks. Found it okay and did it first go when I went back. No cheating pads on either attempt.
Totally messed up rockover on onsight attempt. Couldn't walk properly for two weeks. Found it okay and did it first go when I went back. No cheating pads on either attempt.
Rob Davies ?Apr, 1991 TR dnf
channinga ??, 1991 -
Roget 8 Sep, 1990 TR O/S
with jon
with jon
goi.ashmore 4 Apr, 1988 Solo RP
with Rob Scott
with Rob Scott
Nettle ?Jun, 1987 TR dog Playing around on harder stuff! Approx date!
with Neil Haycock
Playing around on harder stuff! Approx date!
with Neil Haycock
steveb2006 22 Mar, 1987 TR
with Roy Ruddle
with Roy Ruddle
Tom V ??, 1986 TR
Hidden 25 Jun, 1985 TR
Hidden 8 Apr, 1984 TR
Mark Kemball 1 Apr, 1984 TR
with Paul Clark
with Paul Clark
Mark Kemball 8 Mar, 1983 TR
with Johnny Dawes
with Johnny Dawes
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 1980 Solo
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Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 37
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 34
Style of ascent
Toproped
Soloed
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Redpoint
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set