Restricted Access
November 2017 update
Reports of climbers being told to leave by security staff from the quarry and stating that they will be removing the bolts form this venue. BMC are investigating.
The owners of the site (Cemex Ltd) have approached the BMC to advise that this crag is within and forms part of a larger site that is an active and working quarry. They are legally bound by the Quarries Regulations 1999 to ensure that they take appropriate steps to prevent public access to the site, and have requested the BMC to inform climbers that climbing is not allowed at this site.
2020 update
Climbers have been heavily using this crag (especially during lockdown) with no issues. If approached by Cemtex Staff, please comply with their request if asked to leave and get in touch with your local access rep.
Rockfax Description
From good holds above the rib and pockets on Party Animal continue directly up the wall. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A fine wall pitch. Start just right of The Quartz Bicycle, (optional ) staple belay on ledge can be shared for both, move up the shattered flake to gain a rib. Press on via a trio of good pockets, to reach good holds above,continue up the wall to a seperate belay. Rebolted fully,July 2010, cleaned,repeated,chalked. Can be done in one or two pitches
G.Gibson, R.Thomas 14/Oct/1990.
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Taff's Well West
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Melting Man
Grade: 7a ***
(Taff's Well)