14m.

Rockfax Description
Fist-jamming at its best (not the contradiction in terms non-gritstoner's might imagine). Large gear is a must. Climb through the intimidating overhang to an uncomfortable niche then fist-jam and flail until the crack narrows and easier ground gives you a chance to survey the damage! © Rockfax

FA. Joe Brown, Fred Ashton 1948

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, Gritstone's finest gruesome and damaging struggles, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Peak Rock/6/ The Emergence of Joe Brown and Don Whillans, Joe Brown's Three-Star Grit-List, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit, UK Sandbags

Feedback

UserDateNotes
Cake 28 May Show βeta
βeta: Superb. Hard safe 5b
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb. Hard safe 5b
Cake 28 May Show βeta
βeta: Superb. Hard safe 5b
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Superb. Hard safe 5b
Duncan I 28 May, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: E for effort. The gear is HVS and there's loads of it. It's a real fight for the tall as the niche is not that welcoming! The final flake is brilliant.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: E for effort. The gear is HVS and there's loads of it. It's a real fight for the tall as the niche is not that welcoming! The final flake is brilliant.
Nick Smith - Climbers 13 Sep, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Much easier once the niche is reached, and is fist jamming really required?? A 3-star 'soft touch' E1.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Much easier once the niche is reached, and is fist jamming really required?? A 3-star 'soft touch' E1.
Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 21 Sep 2nd
with Anna G
with Anna G
Hidden 21 Sep Lead O/S
dan gibson 21 Jul Lead O/S
George Frisby 6 Jul 2nd rpt
with Berny
with Berny
Hidden 22 Jun Lead G/U
Cake 24 May Lead O/S
mattnuttall 14 May Lead rpt
with Alan Holden, Matthew Tink Taylor
with Alan Holden, Matthew Tink Taylor
Hidden 14 May 2nd rpt
Hidden 14 May 2nd O/S
hilty 22 Apr Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Aug, 2018 Lead dnf
George Frisby 14 Jul, 2018 Lead rpt Finally got it!!!!!
Finally got it!!!!!
Bronwyn Tarr 14 Jul, 2018 2nd dog Really struggled up the start...need bigger fists! Figured out a good hack after a couple tries...using a right side toe hook deep in the crack at first, a good foot out left and then a right hand fist jam right at the bottom of the crack (the only place that my hand wasn't too small!) Then got my right foot way way waay out right and behind me (ballet -style) and finally managed to get left hand into crack higher up and deeper. Lol. what a dog show.
Really struggled up the start...need bigger fists! Figured out a good hack after a couple tries...using a right side toe hook deep in the crack at first, a good foot out left and then a right hand fist jam right at the bottom of the crack (the only place that my hand wasn't too small!) Then got my right foot way way waay out right and behind me (ballet -style) and finally managed to get left hand into crack higher up and deeper. Lol. what a dog show.
rowland penty 14 Jul, 2018 2nd
George Frisby 9 Jul, 2018 Lead dog Got through the crux bulge at bottom and into niche, then got stuck and exhausted and rested. Absolute battle on lead, quite hard to clip gear.
Got through the crux bulge at bottom and into niche, then got stuck and exhausted and rested. Absolute battle on lead, quite hard to clip gear.
George Frisby 1 Jul, 2018 2nd dog Had to try lots of options for crux roof at the bottom. Rowland did it with and elbow jam but I found fists worked better. Amazing jamming after that. One to come back and lead.
Had to try lots of options for crux roof at the bottom. Rowland did it with and elbow jam but I found fists worked better. Amazing jamming after that. One to come back and lead.
rowland penty 30 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U Fell a few times doing the bottom roof bit, eventually got it using an elbow jam and giving it everything
Fell a few times doing the bottom roof bit, eventually got it using an elbow jam and giving it everything
Tom Redwood 10 Jun, 2018 Lead G/U Wow, what a fight! Getting over the overhang and into the niche is definitely the crux, lost a lot of (literal) blood, sweat and nearly tears! Working out the best fist jam and feet beta took a lot of times and falls onto a bomber big cam, slightly easier for the tall but that really wont help you much further up. So relieved to be finally 'resting' in the niche I charged up the easing crack, never been so driven to power on up for the route alone (not fear of falling). Brilliant route and definitely the best fight I've had with a route so far! (Thanks for hanging around VP, MT, EB)
with Mike505
Wow, what a fight! Getting over the overhang and into the niche is definitely the crux, lost a lot of (literal) blood, sweat and nearly tears! Working out the best fist jam and feet beta took a lot of times and falls onto a bomber big cam, slightly easier for the tall but that really wont help you much further up. So relieved to be finally 'resting' in the niche I charged up the easing crack, never been so driven to power on up for the route alone (not fear of falling). Brilliant route and definitely the best fight I've had with a route so far! (Thanks for hanging around VP, MT, EB)
with Mike505
Mike505 10 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Tom seemed to struggle so I decided to offer moral support by seconding bare foot without chalk (because I'm and a#$£ Hole), powerful moves on painfully good jams.
Tom seemed to struggle so I decided to offer moral support by seconding bare foot without chalk (because I'm and a#$£ Hole), powerful moves on painfully good jams.
M_Robinson 11 Sep, 2016 Lead dog Bloody hell
with Rachel Mackay
Bloody hell
with Rachel Mackay
Laurabrown 11 Sep, 2016 TR dnf
Hidden 11 Sep, 2016 2nd O/S
Stroppy 11 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Thought this was the easiest of the three HVS - still an absolute struggle though and would have appreciated a big silver cam
with Hastie
Thought this was the easiest of the three HVS - still an absolute struggle though and would have appreciated a big silver cam
with Hastie
soph 9 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S Roof was intimidating but quite easy actually- good fist jam for my sized hands- fun!
Roof was intimidating but quite easy actually- good fist jam for my sized hands- fun!
morganator 9 Sep, 2016 2nd
with soph
with soph
ferdia 15 Aug, 2016 2nd
Andy Moles 15 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
with ferdia
with ferdia
Hidden 6 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
poeter210 1 Aug, 2016 2nd dog
with druss
with druss
Hidden 1 Aug, 2016 Lead G/U
Flavio 23 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Absolute class, worth every cm.
Absolute class, worth every cm.
w-watson 23 Jul, 2016 2nd
with Flavio
with Flavio
Duncan Campbell 19 Jul, 2016 2nd Fell off going over the roof a couple of times. Crack was a little wide for someone with small paws like me.
Fell off going over the roof a couple of times. Crack was a little wide for someone with small paws like me.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 19 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Well that was fun...
Well that was fun...
Hidden 9 May, 2016 2nd
Jimbo C 7 May, 2016 2nd dog Climbed only to get Pete's gear out. My goodness what a battle.
with Pete
Climbed only to get Pete's gear out. My goodness what a battle.
with Pete
adi bryant 3 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S Brutal
Brutal
John sealey 3 Oct, 2015 Lead
with si witcher
with si witcher
Si Witcher 3 Oct, 2015 2nd rpt
Just Another Dave 5 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Drew a little blood. Felt good. And reasonably straightforward if you can just blank out the pain. As for my second: After several falls just trying to get established, resorted to aiding the entire way with a cam in each hand!
with sam kendrick
Drew a little blood. Felt good. And reasonably straightforward if you can just blank out the pain. As for my second: After several falls just trying to get established, resorted to aiding the entire way with a cam in each hand!
with sam kendrick
hamer89 ?May, 2015 Lead O/S Quality grit jamming
Quality grit jamming
Hidden 26 Jul, 2014 2nd dog
JimboWizbo 26 Jul, 2014 Lead dog Christ
with BCT
Christ
with BCT
Dohnny_Jawes 21 Jun, 2014 Lead
Hidden 21 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
manwithacam 5 Jun, 2014 Lead Delighted to get this, was s******* myself as I knew it would be a battle. Took about 15mins under roof trying to work out what to do, jammed in the end, felt bit desperate but not too bad on reflection. Once in the niche the rest is steady away on lovely jams and great gear. A jamming milestone!
with Mark, Alan
Delighted to get this, was s******* myself as I knew it would be a battle. Took about 15mins under roof trying to work out what to do, jammed in the end, felt bit desperate but not too bad on reflection. Once in the niche the rest is steady away on lovely jams and great gear. A jamming milestone!
with Mark, Alan
Andy Peak 1 18 May, 2014 Lead last route of the chewe chalinge, shold of worn a t shirt!
last route of the chewe chalinge, shold of worn a t shirt!
dominic lee 14 Sep, 2013 Solo
Hidden 18 Aug, 2013 Lead
MikeLeeds 18 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Used my camalot 4 in 3 places, and only lost a little blood via my elbow.
Used my camalot 4 in 3 places, and only lost a little blood via my elbow.
CharlieMack 15 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with Bicky
with Bicky
Hidden 18 Jun, 2013 Lead β
The Grist 18 Jun, 2013 2nd β
andi turner ??, 2013 -
Frank the Husky ??, 2013 -
HarryB 10 Aug, 2012 Lead dnf Wasn't the easiest introduction to grit HVS!
with Al
Wasn't the easiest introduction to grit HVS!
with Al
Tony Holdsworth 27 May, 2012 Lead rpt
with Joanna House, Tom Reed
with Joanna House, Tom Reed
harold walmsley 5 May, 2011 Lead O/S Ranks with The Vice as an iconic grit crack struggle although it seems much less bold with big friends. Done in rain. It stayed dry but the sides felt slippy.
with Colin Struthers
Ranks with The Vice as an iconic grit crack struggle although it seems much less bold with big friends. Done in rain. It stayed dry but the sides felt slippy.
with Colin Struthers
Hidden 17 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf
TomPR 9 Apr, 2011 Lead
walts4 ??, 2011 -
Graeme Hammond 11 Jul, 2010 Lead O/S Excellent, though almost disappointed I didn't really have to try very hard, jamming heaven :D think tough HVS is just fair for this and E1 for The Trident.
Excellent, though almost disappointed I didn't really have to try very hard, jamming heaven :D think tough HVS is just fair for this and E1 for The Trident.
phil64 28 Jun, 2010 Lead awesome... good old fashioned hvs?
awesome... good old fashioned hvs?
Hidden 21 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 21 May, 2010 Lead O/S Only proper grit thugs need apply!
Only proper grit thugs need apply!
mattyork2 13 Sep, 2009 Lead Fell of first time - the first of much skin loss today -right cut up now - full body bruising - quality
with Ben Heason
Fell of first time - the first of much skin loss today -right cut up now - full body bruising - quality
with Ben Heason
jonka ?Sep, 2009 -
with gareth
with gareth
mattnuttall 3 Jun, 2009 2nd O/S
with Andy Stewart, Alan Holden
with Andy Stewart, Alan Holden
Graham Armitage 24 May, 2009 2nd
with towdman
with towdman
towdman 24 May, 2009 Lead dog
Pete Graham 11 May, 2008 Lead
with James Fleming
with James Fleming
Ian Parnell 1 Oct, 2007 Lead O/S
with ben bransby
with ben bransby
Hidden 23 Aug, 2007 2nd
Hidden 24 Jul, 2007 2nd
Brown 3 Jun, 2007 Lead O/S
with John
with John
nige 21 Apr, 2007 Lead
with sven rowan
with sven rowan
Daniel Armitage 21 Sep, 2006 Lead rpt
with Paul Armitage
with Paul Armitage
towdman 21 Sep, 2006 2nd
Hidden 16 Jul, 2006 Lead rpt
dan_o_b ?Sep, 2005 2nd O/S
Hidden ?Aug, 2005 Lead dog
Hidden 16 Jul, 2005 Lead
SR1970 ?Jul, 2005 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2005 -
Duncan I ?Aug, 2004 Lead dog tired
tired
Hidden 3 May, 2004 Lead O/S
mark s ??, 2004 Lead O/S
with andi t
with andi t
sadams 27 Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
uphillnow 17 Sep, 2003 Lead All about the entry moves
with Mark Gray
All about the entry moves
with Mark Gray
Hidden ?Sep, 2003 Lead O/S
steveb2006 24 Aug, 2003 2nd Bit of a tussle and blood drawn
with Paul Ramsden
Bit of a tussle and blood drawn
with Paul Ramsden
DubyaJamesDubya 9 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S Tough jamming but wonderful.
with Nik Howard
Tough jamming but wonderful.
with Nik Howard
Rob Davies ?May, 2003 Lead dnf Couldn't pass bulge
with Les Goram
Couldn't pass bulge
with Les Goram
Chris Reid 21 Aug, 2002 Lead O/S
Boy ??, 2000 -
Ian Jones ??, 2000 Lead O/S
with John Kirk
with John Kirk
Dave Musgrove 28 Aug, 1999 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 28 Aug, 1999 2nd
craig h 11 Jul, 1999 -
roncaves 26 Jun, 1999 2nd
with Gavin Williams
with Gavin Williams
Nigel Coe 26 Jun, 1999 Lead
with Martin Crocker
with Martin Crocker
crossleysm ??, 1995 2nd
Alan Scowcroft 14 Jul, 1991 2nd
Andy Say 14 Jul, 1989 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 18 Jul, 1982 Lead
Hidden 18 Apr, 1982 2nd
Seymore Butt ??, 1965 2nd
with Jack
with Jack
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 40
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 39
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set