20m.

Rockfax Description
Bold, delicate and superb. Climb the crack of Blasphemy until a delicate scoop leads out left to the arete. Step round the exposed corner, move up and immediately step back right onto an easier slab. Watch that rope drag! © Rockfax

FA. Ian Carr 1982

Ticklists

Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Gambit 6 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S Cleaned today, easy but can be utter filth, cam at the end helps, far easier than Blasphemy
with Greame Hammond
Cleaned today, easy but can be utter filth, cam at the end helps, far easier than Blasphemy
with Greame Hammond
Graeme Hammond 6 Aug, 2018 Lead RP A brilliant climb technically easier than it's parent Blasphemy but bolder, though with modern protection you shouldn't risk a ground fall from the end moves as the OTM guide suggests though it is still quite bold! (beta alert: good parallel slot at the end of the traverse takes a green totem cam) Wanted to do this route ever since doing Blasphemy in 2011, I knew it was going to need a clean before an ascent (see the amount of moss in the photo of me on Blasphemy on UKC and it had got alot worse!!!). I spent quite a while removing a carpet of moss and lichen from the scoop to unearth just enough holds to make the tip-toe traverse doable - in reality quite easy. As I hadn't planned to visit that day I hadn't had a chance to do a dedicated cleaning visit and it was a case of make in climbable rather than perfect and clean so with it being reasonably bold I tried the moves just to make sure I wasn't being stupid hence the Lead RP. Unfortunately due to the angle of the scoop and being unable to clean fully the climb it is likely to build up dirt and moss again unless it has regular ascents which seems unlikely. If you want to clean it further there are good cams in crack at the top of Blasphemy and or a thread in block behind the edge + large silver cam in break on slab below the top on the left which equalised will keep the abseil in the middle of the scoop for cleaning, large stiff brush required + an old rope!
with Gambit
A brilliant climb technically easier than it's parent Blasphemy but bolder, though with modern protection you shouldn't risk a ground fall from the end moves as the OTM guide suggests though it is still quite bold! (beta alert: good parallel slot at the end of the traverse takes a green totem cam) Wanted to do this route ever since doing Blasphemy in 2011, I knew it was going to need a clean before an ascent (see the amount of moss in the photo of me on Blasphemy on UKC and it had got alot worse!!!). I spent quite a while removing a carpet of moss and lichen from the scoop to unearth just enough holds to make the tip-toe traverse doable - in reality quite easy. As I hadn't planned to visit that day I hadn't had a chance to do a dedicated cleaning visit and it was a case of make in climbable rather than perfect and clean so with it being reasonably bold I tried the moves just to make sure I wasn't being stupid hence the Lead RP. Unfortunately due to the angle of the scoop and being unable to clean fully the climb it is likely to build up dirt and moss again unless it has regular ascents which seems unlikely. If you want to clean it further there are good cams in crack at the top of Blasphemy and or a thread in block behind the edge + large silver cam in break on slab below the top on the left which equalised will keep the abseil in the middle of the scoop for cleaning, large stiff brush required + an old rope!
with Gambit
Hidden 13 Jul, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 11 Jul, 2008 2nd
crossleysm ??, 1995 2nd
ste_d 25 Aug, 1993 2nd O/S
Mike_d78 25 Aug, 1993 Lead O/S
with ste_d
with ste_d
Hidden 16 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S
steveb2006 27 Aug, 1990 Lead RP Fall off low down, lower off. Did the Piety finish after failing on Blasphemy.
with Simon Mee
Fall off low down, lower off. Did the Piety finish after failing on Blasphemy.
with Simon Mee
Neil McA 1 Aug, 1990 Solo O/S
with Andy Perkins
with Andy Perkins
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