250m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An enjoyable and busy route which allows an ascent of the south face at an amenable grade. Well-equipped at the stances.
Start in the gully just right of the prominent roofs of Via Italia '61.
1) III+, 45m. Climb easily up blocky rock in, and just right of, the gully to a stance on the right.
2) IV, 35m. Traverse right to a grassy ledge and climb a vertical crack. Step right again to a subsequent crack and belay below a cracked chimney.
3) IV-, 35m. Climb the chimney, moving onto its left side, before traversing left for a few metres to a stance below a slanting corner.
4) IV-, 40m. Ignore the corner and instead climb a cracked slab direct to a ledge below a roof.
5) IV, 40m. Continue in the same line up the corner-crack, keeping right of the roof, then continue up the sustained continuation corner to a ledge on the left.
6) IV, 20m. Traverse left, climb a short corner then continue left over ledges to a stance below a steep grey corner.
7) IV, 40m. Don't climb the corner but make a rising traverse right over slabs to a stance in a small niche below a chimney-crack.
8) IV, 30m. Climb the crack, which is strenuous, then follow the easier chimney above to reach the ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
to the left of Grosse Micheluzzi and to the right of Soldà/S-Verschneidung

froglette 15/Jul AltLd O/S

Only led P1

with Tim Cooper
Hidden 04/Jul AltLd
TimKnight 03/Jul AltLd O/S
Joemanglerocks 03/Jul AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/16 2nd
Gibbs3799 26/Jul/16 -

Bailed out on pitch 5 due to rain

Jake397 ?/Jun/16 AltLd
with Pietro Dinmore, Hamish
ajk-log ??/2016 Lead
Hidden 13/Dec/15 AltLd dnf
gringo1804 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S

With Henry Gent. Quite cheeky for grade IV. In shade all day so very cold.

Hidden 26/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
lcullum7 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
SarahA 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Livesey, Luke Cullum
Hidden 31/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
cpforbes ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20/Jul/14 -
tcn_2002 19/Jul/14 AltLd
Mike-W-99 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Superb juggy corner pitch. Easy route finding, good gear and mostly stable rock. Fiona managed to wedge herself into the exit chimney!

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Soloed half way up pitch 1. Led most of 2 (it's probably best to belay at the end of the rightwards traverse else the rope drag gets unpleasant), 3, 5 plus 10m of 6, 7 and 9. Found the final pitch quite spicy and decided that wedging myself in the chimney was a good idea. Good route, not much loose rock and relatively straightforward route finding.

with Mike
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Tarquin 16/Sep/13 Lead
fishjh2 16/Sep/13 2nd
brianrunner 31/Jul/13 AltLd

Enjoyable route with a fine long steep juggy corner pitch and good rising traverse after.

with steve wells, martina
Hidden 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
sergio46 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

The crux pitch is fab. No probs to find a hand / foot hold on this route!

with Marco
Keith Lambley 09/Sep/12 AltLd
with Karen W
Marq 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Lead it all! Better route than Little Micheluzzi

with Helen C (LMC), James Pearson
The Ivanator 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Bit of a traffic jam that lessened the satisfaction somewhat, good crux pitch, but some scrappy climbing lower down.

with Jez
jezb1 26/Jul/12 AltLd

Pretty average and very busy. What out for chummers knocking rocks onto you.

Alessandro Tentori ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Luca Gasparini
Tarquin 01/Jul/10 AltLd

Partner had a bit of a flap on on the exit chimney - after neatly avoiding the massive jugs. Bless!

John HW 01/Jul/10 AltLd
with 1 x Student, Tarquin
tjekel ??/1997 -
alpinist63 ??/1986 -
2 users have this on their wishlist
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set