UKC

250m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An enjoyable and busy route which allows an ascent of the south face at an amenable grade. Well-equipped at the stances.
Start in the gully just right of the prominent roofs of Via Italia '61.
1) III+, 45m. Climb easily up blocky rock in, and just right of, the gully to a stance on the right.
2) IV, 35m. Traverse right to a grassy ledge and climb a vertical crack. Step right again to a subsequent crack and belay below a cracked chimney.
3) IV-, 35m. Climb the chimney, moving onto its left side, before traversing left for a few metres to a stance below a slanting corner.
4) IV-, 40m. Ignore the corner and instead climb a cracked slab direct to a ledge below a roof.
5) IV, 40m. Continue in the same line up the corner-crack, keeping right of the roof, then continue up the sustained continuation corner to a ledge on the left.
6) IV, 20m. Traverse left, climb a short corner then continue left over ledges to a stance below a steep grey corner.
7) IV, 40m. Don't climb the corner but make a rising traverse right over slabs to a stance in a small niche below a chimney-crack.
8) IV, 30m. Climb the crack, which is strenuous, then follow the easier chimney above to reach the ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
to the left of Grosse Micheluzzi and to the right of Soldà/S-Verschneidung


ClimberDateStyle
Hidden 23/Aug/17 AltLd dnf
teebee1805 27/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Nice route esp. after pitch 4, pitch 5 felt like the crux though the final chimney is quite bold for the grade. Sun came around halfway up so warm enough. Harder than The Rampa de Torso route further down.

froglette 15/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Only led P1

with Tim Cooper
Hidden 04/Jul/17 AltLd
TimKnight 03/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Joemanglerocks 03/Jul/17 AltLd
Hidden 26/Jul/16 2nd
Gibbs3799 26/Jul/16 -

Bailed out on pitch 5 due to rain

Jake397 ?/Jun/16 AltLd
with Pietro Dinmore, Hamish
ajk-log ??/2016 Lead
Hidden 13/Dec/15 AltLd dnf
gringo1804 07/Sep/15 Lead O/S

With Henry Gent. Quite cheeky for grade IV. In shade all day so very cold.

Hidden 26/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
lcullum7 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
SarahA 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Livesey, Luke Cullum
Hidden 31/Jul/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
cpforbes ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 20/Jul/14 -
tcn_2002 19/Jul/14 AltLd
Mike-W-99 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Superb juggy corner pitch. Easy route finding, good gear and mostly stable rock. Fiona managed to wedge herself into the exit chimney!

with Fiona
Fiona Reid 17/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Soloed half way up pitch 1. Led most of 2 (it's probably best to belay at the end of the rightwards traverse else the rope drag gets unpleasant), 3, 5 plus 10m of 6, 7 and 9. Found the final pitch quite spicy and decided that wedging myself in the chimney was a good idea. Good route, not much loose rock and relatively straightforward route finding.

with Mike
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
jcw ??/2014 -
Hidden 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Tarquin 16/Sep/13 Lead
fishjh2 16/Sep/13 2nd
brianrunner 31/Jul/13 AltLd

Enjoyable route with a fine long steep juggy corner pitch and good rising traverse after.

with steve wells, martina
Hidden 28/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
sergio46 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

The crux pitch is fab. No probs to find a hand / foot hold on this route!

with Marco
Keith Lambley 09/Sep/12 AltLd
with Karen W
Marq 21/Aug/12 Lead O/S

Lead it all! Better route than Little Micheluzzi

with Helen C (LMC), James Pearson
The Ivanator 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Bit of a traffic jam that lessened the satisfaction somewhat, good crux pitch, but some scrappy climbing lower down.

with Jez
jezb1 26/Jul/12 AltLd

Pretty average and very busy. What out for chummers knocking rocks onto you.

Alessandro Tentori ?/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Luca Gasparini
Tarquin 01/Jul/10 AltLd

Partner had a bit of a flap on on the exit chimney - after neatly avoiding the massive jugs. Bless!

John HW 01/Jul/10 AltLd
with 1 x Student, Tarquin
tjekel ??/1997 -
alpinist63 ??/1986 -
3 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
Votes cast 9
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set