250m, 9 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An enjoyable and busy route which allows an ascent of the south face at an amenable grade. Well-equipped at the stances.
Start in the gully just right of the prominent roofs of Via Italia '61.
1) III+, 45m. Climb easily up blocky rock in, and just right of, the gully to a stance on the right.
2) IV, 35m. Traverse right to a grassy ledge and climb a vertical crack. Step right again to a subsequent crack and belay below a cracked chimney.
3) IV-, 35m. Climb the chimney, moving onto its left side, before traversing left for a few metres to a stance below a slanting corner.
4) IV-, 40m. Ignore the corner and instead climb a cracked slab direct to a ledge below a roof.
5) IV, 40m. Continue in the same line up the corner-crack, keeping right of the roof, then continue up the sustained continuation corner to a ledge on the left.
6) IV, 20m. Traverse left, climb a short corner then continue left over ledges to a stance below a steep grey corner.
7) IV, 40m. Don't climb the corner but make a rising traverse right over slabs to a stance in a small niche below a chimney-crack.
8) IV, 30m. Climb the crack, which is strenuous, then follow the easier chimney above to reach the ledge. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
to the left of Grosse Micheluzzi and to the right of Soldà/S-Verschneidung

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Logged Ascents

UserDateStyleNotes & Partners
MichelleGreensted 3 Sep, 2018 2nd O/S
lithos 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd scrambled p1, went left too early and had a bit of an epic, climb ghe chminey left wall to its top and pegs, an arrow for the traverse on P3 . P5 and P7 great.
scrambled p1, went left too early and had a bit of an epic, climb ghe chminey left wall to its top and pegs, an arrow for the traverse on P3 . P5 and P7 great.
Hazie 9 Jul, 2018 Lead Good route. takes a while to get going then quite sustained. Took some photos of a couple of (English) chaps on the final pitch. If they want to get in touch can send them photo's.
with Ellie
Good route. takes a while to get going then quite sustained. Took some photos of a couple of (English) chaps on the final pitch. If they want to get in touch can send them photo's.
with Ellie
peterbradshaw101 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with lithos
with lithos
Matthew Edwards 17 Jun, 2018 AltLd dnf Scrambled P1, I led P2 & 4, Dudley led P3 & 5. P5 was tricky and after our other team had issues we decided to ab down from P5 belay. Rope gog jammed in a crack and two ascents of the rope finally fixed the problem. Something to return to. P5 felt steep!
Scrambled P1, I led P2 & 4, Dudley led P3 & 5. P5 was tricky and after our other team had issues we decided to ab down from P5 belay. Rope gog jammed in a crack and two ascents of the rope finally fixed the problem. Something to return to. P5 felt steep!
tdudley 17 Jun, 2018 AltLd dnf Had to back off due to issues with the other guys. Pitch 5 was interesting with an Alpine rack!
Had to back off due to issues with the other guys. Pitch 5 was interesting with an Alpine rack!
Hidden 23 Aug, 2017 AltLd dnf
Octavian 23 Aug, 2017 AltLd
teebee1805 27 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Nice route esp. after pitch 4, pitch 5 felt like the crux though the final chimney is quite bold for the grade. Sun came around halfway up so warm enough. Harder than The Rampa de Torso route further down.
Nice route esp. after pitch 4, pitch 5 felt like the crux though the final chimney is quite bold for the grade. Sun came around halfway up so warm enough. Harder than The Rampa de Torso route further down.
froglette 15 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Only led P1
with Tim Cooper
Only led P1
with Tim Cooper
Hidden 4 Jul, 2017 AltLd
TimKnight 3 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S
Joemanglerocks 3 Jul, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 26 Jul, 2016 2nd
Gibbs3799 26 Jul, 2016 - Bailed out on pitch 5 due to rain
Bailed out on pitch 5 due to rain
Jake397 ?Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Pietro Dinmore, Hamish
with Pietro Dinmore, Hamish
ajk-log ??, 2016 Lead
Hidden 13 Dec, 2015 AltLd dnf
gringo1804 7 Sep, 2015 Lead O/S With Henry Gent. Quite cheeky for grade IV. In shade all day so very cold.
With Henry Gent. Quite cheeky for grade IV. In shade all day so very cold.
Hidden 26 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
lcullum7 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
SarahA 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with Duncan Livesey, lcullum7
with Duncan Livesey, lcullum7
Hidden 31 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
Maia 24 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S Led pitches 1, 3, 5, 7. Sustained but great pitch 5 and traversed over waterfall on 7. Finished before the thunderstorm!
with Pete (as in Fran)
Led pitches 1, 3, 5, 7. Sustained but great pitch 5 and traversed over waterfall on 7. Finished before the thunderstorm!
with Pete (as in Fran)
cpforbes ?Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
David Horwood 20 Jul, 2014 -
tcn_2002 19 Jul, 2014 AltLd
Hidden 17 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S
Fiona Reid 17 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Soloed half way up pitch 1. Led most of 2 (it's probably best to belay at the end of the rightwards traverse else the rope drag gets unpleasant), 3, 5 plus 10m of 6, 7 and 9. Found the final pitch quite spicy and decided that wedging myself in the chimney was a good idea. Good route, not much loose rock and relatively straightforward route finding.
Soloed half way up pitch 1. Led most of 2 (it's probably best to belay at the end of the rightwards traverse else the rope drag gets unpleasant), 3, 5 plus 10m of 6, 7 and 9. Found the final pitch quite spicy and decided that wedging myself in the chimney was a good idea. Good route, not much loose rock and relatively straightforward route finding.
Rich Cross - Alpine Guides ?Jul, 2014 Lead
with David Horwood
with David Horwood
jcw ??, 2014 -
Hidden 21 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Tarquin 16 Sep, 2013 Lead
fishjh2 16 Sep, 2013 2nd
brianrunner 31 Jul, 2013 AltLd Enjoyable route with a fine long steep juggy corner pitch and good rising traverse after.
with steve wells, martina
Enjoyable route with a fine long steep juggy corner pitch and good rising traverse after.
with steve wells, martina
Hidden 28 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
sergio46 20 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S The crux pitch is fab. No probs to find a hand / foot hold on this route!
with Marco
The crux pitch is fab. No probs to find a hand / foot hold on this route!
with Marco
Keith Lambley 9 Sep, 2012 AltLd
with Karen W
with Karen W
Marq 21 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Lead it all! Better route than Little Micheluzzi
with Helen C (LMC), James Pearson
Lead it all! Better route than Little Micheluzzi
with Helen C (LMC), James Pearson
The Ivanator 26 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Bit of a traffic jam that lessened the satisfaction somewhat, good crux pitch, but some scrappy climbing lower down.
with jezb1
Bit of a traffic jam that lessened the satisfaction somewhat, good crux pitch, but some scrappy climbing lower down.
with jezb1
jezb1 26 Jul, 2012 AltLd Pretty average and very busy. What out for chummers knocking rocks onto you.
Pretty average and very busy. What out for chummers knocking rocks onto you.
Alessandro Tentori ?Aug, 2010 2nd O/S
with Luca Gasparini
with Luca Gasparini
Tarquin 1 Jul, 2010 AltLd Partner had a bit of a flap on on the exit chimney - after neatly avoiding the massive jugs. Bless!
Partner had a bit of a flap on on the exit chimney - after neatly avoiding the massive jugs. Bless!
John HW 1 Jul, 2010 AltLd
with 1 x Student, Tarquin
with 1 x Student, Tarquin
tjekel ??, 1997 -
alpinist63 ??, 1986 -
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Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High IV-
Mid IV-
Low IV-
Votes cast 10
Votes cast 8
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Not Set