Rockfax Description
The finest route in WCJ has a hard start. Once past this, the route follows a superb, sustained finger and hand crack. Climb left of a lower crack to a bulge (peg). Pull through with difficulty to the ledge above then head up the wall to gain the crack. Thrash up this (off-fingers and small cams ), the hanging corner is your target; make it that far and you're home. © Rockfax

FFA. Ron Fawcett, Pete Livesey 1976. Climbed during a purple-patch in the mid-70s, racing Proctor, Birtles and Marshall to the first ascent who had done it previously with one rest point. FAA. Paul Nunn, Brian Barlow, Barry Ingle 1960. FA. (Direct Start,

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Haydn Jones 26/Jun Lead G/U

Punted the very top missed a good hold. I'm blind aparantly

with Paul reeves
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 16/Jun Lead G/U

Wanted to do this for years. The lower crux is hard & committing, but (as suggested elsewhere) has good pro to back-up the ageing peg. The crack above is where the magic happens though, and if it'd have been 10cm shorter I reckon I'd have done it, as that's about how close I got on the onsight.

James Oswald 16/Jun 2nd dog

Fell off in crack once. Bloody hard!!

Seb Grieve ??/2017 -
Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Perfect limestone trad, pumpy as hell!

with Louis
rocksol ??/2016 -
Adam Long 16/Aug/15 Lead β

A good route. Led entirely on Dave and Ben's gear after DT's rematch ended at the crack. Crack ok if you can hang in there.

with Dave Turnbull, Ben Bransby
Alex Mason 16/Sep/14 Lead β

Ground up. Dropped crux grabbing a slimy leaf in the pocket by the peg. Cleared it out and got it next go. Top crack is awesome, doesn't take very good cams but the wires are sinker.

Duncan Campbell 16/Sep/14 2nd dog

Much frigging occurred. Fell off lower crux a few times before pulling on peg. Then found top crack well hard, especially whilst taking kit out. Hard E5 with hard 6b moves over initial bulge and hard sustained 6a(?) up the crack? Jeez Louise!

with Mason
Brown 29/Jul/14 2nd rpt

Good climbing especially the upper crack. This route was adequately protected by leader placed protection with no reliance on any insitu pegs at all. Returned for the lead and made it all the way to easy ground in the top groove where I discovered it was wet. I fell a long way.

with Andy R
edinbed 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 19/May/10 Lead dog

Made it to within 4ft of the hanging corner 1st go then slipped out.

with Elfyn Jones
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
sadams ?/Jun/03 Lead dog

Very nearly made it to top of crack this time. very greasy suspect doesn't get too many ascents

with Tom Briggs
Paul Clarke ??/2000 Lead
with Leeds Crew
sadams 31/Jul/96 Lead dnf
with Hugh Cottom
Stoney Boy 06/Jul/93 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Aug/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/92 Lead β
keefe 12/Oct/91 -
Hidden 02/Aug/90 Lead
ukb & bmc shark ??/1988 Lead
Mike Owen 29/Sep/86 Lead O/S
with Ian McMullan
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/84 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/84 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 04/Aug/83 Lead
with Paul Clark
Hidden 20/Jun/82 2nd
Steve Lewis 13/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
Hidden ?/May/81 2nd
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High E6
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High 6c
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Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set