Rockfax Description
The finest route in WCJ has a hard start. Once past this, the route follows a superb, sustained finger and hand crack. Climb left of a lower crack to a bulge (peg). Pull through with difficulty to the ledge above then head up the wall to gain the crack. Thrash up this (off-fingers and small cams ), the hanging corner is your target; make it that far and you're home. © Rockfax

FFA. Ron Fawcett, Pete Livesey 1976. Climbed during a purple-patch in the mid-70s, racing Proctor, Birtles and Marshall to the first ascent who had done it previously with one rest point. FAA. Paul Nunn, Brian Barlow, Barry Ingle 1960. FA. (Direct Start,

Ticklists: Trad climbs for sport climbers, Rockfax Peak Limestone Top 50, Peak Rock/13/The Limestone Revolution, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).

Dave Musgrove Jnr 30/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Perfect limestone trad, pumpy as hell!

with Louis
rocksol ??/2016 -
Adam Long 16/Aug/15 Lead β

A good route. Led entirely on Dave and Ben's gear after DT's rematch ended at the crack. Crack ok if you can hang in there.

with Dave Turnbull, Ben Bransby
Duncan Campbell 16/Sep/14 2nd dog

Much frigging occurred. Fell off lower crux a few times before pulling on peg. Then found top crack well hard, especially whilst taking kit out. Hard E5 with hard 6b moves over initial bulge and hard sustained 6a(?) up the crack? Jeez Louise!

with Mason
Alex Mason 16/Sep/14 Lead β

Ground up. Dropped crux grabbing a slimy leaf in the pocket by the peg. Cleared it out and got it next go. Top crack is awesome, doesn't take very good cams but the wires are sinker.

Brown 29/Jul/14 2nd rpt

Good climbing especially the upper crack. This route was adequately protected by leader placed protection with no reliance on any insitu pegs at all. Returned for the lead and made it all the way to easy ground in the top groove where I discovered it was wet. I fell a long way.

with Andy R
edinbed 03/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Dave Turnbull, BMC 19/May/10 Lead dog

Made it to within 4ft of the hanging corner 1st go then slipped out.

with Elfyn Jones
Hidden 10/Sep/09 Lead rpt
Hidden ?/Aug/09 -
sadams ?/Jun/03 Lead dog

Very nearly made it to top of crack this time. very greasy suspect doesn't get too many ascents

with Tom Briggs
sadams 31/Jul/96 Lead dnf
with Hugh Cottom
Stoney Boy 06/Jul/93 Lead RP
Hidden 06/Aug/92 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/92 Lead β
keefe 12/Oct/91 -
Hidden 02/Aug/90 Lead
ukb shark ??/1988 Lead
Mike Owen 29/Sep/86 -
with Ian McMullan
Hidden ??/1985 Lead
Hidden 29/Sep/84 Lead
Hidden ?/Jun/84 Lead O/S
Mark Kemball 04/Aug/83 Lead
with Paul Clark
Hidden 20/Jun/82 2nd
Steve Lewis 13/Jun/82 Lead O/S
with Alan Dance, Alun Richardson
Hidden ?/May/81 2nd
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 11
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 11
Votes cast 10
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set