12m.

Rockfax Description
12m. The flake crack is Western Grit's answer to Stanage's Heaven Crack, and its a good effort. © Rockfax

FA. Paul Seddon 1960

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50, Connoisseur's Classic Rock, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit.


ClimberDateStyle
nath2915 18/May Lead O/S
Woodmouse 18/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 30/Apr Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Apr Lead O/S
OliWoolland 09/Apr TR O/S
with Steph
Hidden 17/Sep/16 2nd
nelstrop 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S

Great route though it took me a while to work out how to get established at the start. Nice moves when I worked it out and when I trusted my dubious foot and nice very well protected climbing above

with Claire Scott
Hidden 17/Sep/16 Lead O/S
D Berry 27/Aug/16 2nd RP

Previous rolled off the first foothold in perfect conditions. Some what sub- optimal today but, short mud induced slither to a rest on good holds aside, went very well.

with Wayne S
Hidden 27/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Wayne S 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S

In heavy rain!

with Dale
pawel suhy 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S

Nice

john max 13/Aug/16 2nd
with Pawel
George Frisby 19/Jul/16 Lead rpt
steve_gibbs 19/Jul/16 2nd O/S
mrphilipoldham 13/Jul/16 Lead O/S

Perfect.

John Geoffrey 22/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Fiona
FDixon 22/Jun/16 2nd O/S
JimboWizbo 07/Jun/16 Lead O/S
with Paul
Jules Lane 05/Jun/16 Lead rpt
with Mynydd Paul Justin
George Frisby 05/Jun/16 2nd O/S
tanssop 08/May/16 2nd
with Andy
FelixJT ?/Nov/15 Lead
with max farnsworth
Duncan Zerafa 27/Sep/15 2nd O/S
gpcomps 19/Sep/15 Solo O/S

Deserving of it's rating, a perfect easy layback

Hidden 24/Aug/15 Lead
payeo20 15/Aug/15 2nd β
with Alex W
Alex Whittaker 15/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 08/Aug/15 2nd
Hidden 08/Aug/15 Lead
Becky E 08/Aug/15 Lead O/S

Superb.

john max 08/Aug/15 2nd
with Becky E
Simonfarfaraway 25/Jul/15 2nd
with Cliff Brown
Shaw Brown 25/Jul/15 Lead
Hidden 25/Jul/15 2nd
db79 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S
atom 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
Becks87 23/Jun/15 2nd O/S
BnB 12/Jun/15 -
royalste45 06/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Rated top 50 climb in the guide book we used .the Crack is brilliant to climb with places for plenty of protection

with David coates
nwakeman 05/Jun/15 Lead dnf
with Aiden Broyd, Kirsty Hounsell
Cruty Rammers 04/Jun/15 2nd

Very good, start surprisingly hard for the grade, feels exposed all the way, but plenty gear

with mattius
Brown 27/May/15 Solo
with Stu
CKegan 13/May/15 2nd O/S

First climb after 2 years absent from rock, nice!

with Stevie
stratandrew 13/May/15 Lead O/S
with Dave Wylie
Hidden 02/May/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 28/Sep/14 2nd
sgl 16/Sep/14 Solo
jimbonfire 24/Aug/14 -
Luke Jones 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Will Smith, LMC
Hidden 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
timjones 27/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Simonj 27/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with tim jones
Calum Wadsworth 20/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Ray Sharples
g1m147 12/Jul/14 Solo
Hidden 11/Jul/14 2nd O/S
jakebrown 11/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 22/Jun/14 Solo O/S
dpomcfc 19/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 18/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Rob84 17/Jun/14 2nd O/S
with Pidg
Hidden ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
MatthewH 21/May/14 Lead O/S
with Dave Wylie
newskin 21/May/14 2nd O/S

First layback. Lots of fun!

Stuart Hurworth 21/May/14 Lead O/S

Brilliant flake, tricky to enter and the interest continues, fun final wall.

with Manchester Climbing Club
K Mckay 17/May/14 Solo O/S

Well worth 3 stars. Awesome moves! Also did the severe curving crack leading on to it.

dan_o_b ?/May/14 Lead O/S
thetradlad 28/Sep/13 2nd O/S
with Dan Tyas
snapperdan 08/Sep/13 2nd O/S
Jono_LS16 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/13 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep/13 Lead O/S
Matthew reid 02/Sep/13 Solo O/S
chrisgaynon69 26/Aug/13 2nd O/S
with karl bamford
karlb 26/Aug/13 2nd

Much harder than expected - Couldn't lead this so chris did a good job. slipped and came off near top - not sure this should be a 3* route? - oops seems we did layback crack instead!!

blackholesun 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S
eldre070 25/Aug/13 Lead O/S

Nice and clean line. Start is 4a in my opinion, as is the first 5 metres. Nice.

splat2million 25/Aug/13 2nd

Tough, especially at the start, for a HVD. Exhausted myself on the lead from fear of falling (and 2 falls) but then quite straightforward on second.

timcedwards 14/Aug/13 2nd
rockman 14/Aug/13 Lead O/S

First route at Dovestones and a real cracker. Harder than Heaven Crack and very good value for HVD!

Dan Mckinlay ?/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Montecore 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Richard Lizzimore
Ramblin dave 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Superb. Has to be one of the best easy routes in the Peak.

with Alison
Hidden 20/Jul/13 2nd
rfdl100 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Rikki
Hidden 20/Jul/13 Lead O/S
skittles 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Lovely line

Hidden 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S
pog100 17/Jul/13 Lead

Nice climb as the sun set and the midges emerged. Found it surprisingly strenuous placing gear in the first few metres.

with Cath Walton
bwestwood 15/Jul/13 Lead
nokishatov 14/Jul/13 Lead rpt

At the end of the 2013 chew valley challenge. A great route on a great day

with Eleanor
Hidden 11/Jul/13 2nd O/S
j.buckley87 11/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Jam_sandwich 10/Jul/13 2nd O/S
BenedictIEP 10/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Darron 07/Jul/13 -
BruceW 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Becca
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 06/Jul/13 2nd
Hidden 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
j.buckley87 ?/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Jun/13 2nd rpt
Bloke on a Rope 07/Jun/13 Solo O/S

Top route makes for a really good solo

with Matt
steady 01/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Sweet, sweeet ... sweeeeeet climb.

with Claudine, Peter J
georgenvk 12/May/13 Lead O/S
jimartin 06/May/13 2nd
Stefan Trebicki 06/May/13 Lead
Matthew Cunningham 06/May/13 2nd
Frank the Husky ??/2013 -
JBROWN41 16/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with Jake Ankers
jorge1983 ?/Aug/12 Lead O/S
pdamann 14/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with J Colledge
Matt1234 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
JEP 29/May/12 Solo O/S
Juan Ruiz 29/May/12 2nd
Barry D 29/May/12 Lead
with Juan
Stefan Trebicki 26/May/12 2nd
with Liam Brady
markblair 26/May/12 2nd O/S

Great route. Worth the stars.

with Alison Dixon
vix 23/May/12 2nd
with Ben, Jonny
J25 23/May/12 Lead O/S
tompilgrem 22/May/12 2nd O/S
with Dad
bobpilgrem 22/May/12 Lead O/S

great line- a bit dirty but added to the fun !

with Tom
Stefan Trebicki 31/Mar/12 2nd
with Liam Brady
Dan0Me 11/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with Sophie C
Steve J P 21/Aug/11 Lead
with BW
Bernie Wylde 21/Aug/11 2nd
with sp
Hidden 31/Jul/11 2nd
hcooper 24/Jul/11 2nd

Recommended the route to a mate, and followed up on 2nd.

with James Gelling
Tiki-God 24/Jul/11 2nd O/S
Hidden 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Solo
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Solo O/S
t8t9t8 19/Jun/11 -
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 19/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Jayzen 19/Jun/11 2nd
with Mark Ashley
Becky E 05/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 05/Jun/11 2nd rpt
with Becky E
BaildonBanker 04/Jun/11 Lead β
1poundSOCKS 04/Jun/11 Lead β
WillCass 02/Jun/11 2nd O/S
with Martin
thedatastream 27/May/11 TR rpt
with Jess, Abraham, TimTimFullOfWin
Tom Stapleton 11/May/11 2nd O/S
mattmu 11/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Apr/11 -
Hidden ??/2011 Solo
Dave Franklin 05/Sep/10 2nd rpt
flapjack_franky 05/Sep/10 Lead O/S

Absolutely excellent climb.

with Marc Millership, Dave Franklin
petegunn 30/Aug/10 2nd
with Davina & Steve
stimpey 30/Aug/10 2nd O/S
with Pete, Davina
Hidden 30/Aug/10 Lead O/S
vincentchopper 18/Aug/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead
thedatastream 11/Jul/10 TR O/S
alisonsmigova 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
alisonsmigova 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S
grubes 06/Jul/10 Lead O/S

fantastic

Thomas Smith 06/Jul/10 2nd β
with grubes
Hidden 06/Jul/10 Solo O/S
ruggystunts 30/Jun/10 Lead
with Kev
kjbix 30/Jun/10 2nd
Hidden 28/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 20/Jun/10 Solo rpt
Hidden 17/Jun/10 Lead
WillCass 16/Jun/10 2nd
with Charlie, Si
Hidden 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 05/Jun/10 2nd
with Phil Ashton
birbeck 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with Chris Proffitt
ayuplass 31/May/10 Lead O/S
with miles
Barry D 22/May/10 2nd
with Mel
Hidden 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 19/May/10 Lead O/S
john.gaffney 24/Apr/10 Lead
with Ed Arnett
ste_d 24/Apr/10 Solo rpt
Hidden ??/2010 -
reubensampson 17/Oct/09 2nd
with Dan Peers
peggy_on_the_rocks 20/Sep/09 Lead dnf

attempt lead, put three bits of gear in then down climbed

DanH9883 20/Sep/09 Solo
Graeme Hammond 13/Sep/09 Solo O/S
Graeme Hammond 13/Sep/09 2nd rpt

taller than Heven crack, V Good but not quite as good.

Hidden 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
shed_hed 13/Sep/09 Lead O/S
Simonj 22/Aug/09 Lead O/S
heidavey 18/Aug/09 2nd O/S

Bottom half seems a bit hard for the grade.

with Susi
red.stiletto 18/Aug/09 Lead dog

start felt hard for HVD

with heidavey
Mike Hall 16/Aug/09 Lead
with Liz, Phil
Reaver2k 11/Aug/09 2nd rpt

Great climb, one of the best of its grade I think.

matthewjames 11/Aug/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 09/Aug/09 2nd
Sianny 09/Aug/09 2nd O/S
WillCass 09/Aug/09 Lead O/S
embob 09/Aug/09 Lead

Absolutely cracking route, nearly fluffed it all by dropping all of my large wires at about 4 metres. After that, everything flowed. Loved the scalloped flake crack.

with Alex
BobPorter 24/Jul/09 Lead O/S
with Simon
ste_d 28/Jun/09 Solo rpt
RankAmateur 21/Jun/09 TR O/S

Nice easy climb. Rock was dry and not at all green. Top roping due to lack of experience with leading. Not a huge fan of laybacking, but it's the only way up till the shelf is reached before the easy top out.

with Bec Jones; Martin Honey
ste_d 16/Jun/09 Solo rpt
Goody 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with Margaret Bowyer
Rob Jarratt 09/Jun/09 Lead
with Andy Crawley, Julie Hardie
Hidden 09/Jun/09 2nd
tanssop 31/May/09 2nd
with Andy & Paul
doogstrue 31/May/09 Lead O/S

cracking hard v diff

with phil & andy
SteWatkins ?/May/09 -
ste_d 26/Apr/09 Solo rpt
Hidden 04/Apr/09 Lead
jcurley 02/Apr/09 Lead rpt
colin milton 02/Apr/09 2nd
Jen80 15/Mar/09 2nd
hcooper 15/Mar/09 Lead
Hidden 20/Sep/08 -
mjeffery 25/Jul/08 Lead O/S
johnwilson123 ?/Jul/08 -
with paul
mattnuttall 30/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Alan Holden
stuckonarock 10/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Matthew
tanssop 10/Jun/08 2nd rpt
with Sean
Matthallinan 10/Jun/08 Solo
ste_d 08/Jun/08 Solo rpt
Hidden 24/May/08 2nd O/S
tanssop 11/May/08 Lead O/S
with Julie
Hidden 10/May/08 Solo rpt
craig h 07/May/08 Solo rpt
ste_d 07/May/08 Solo rpt
DerwentDiluted 26/Apr/08 Lead
with Nicola Pettit
Chris Lyon 22/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Tom Whitehead
Mancunianimport ??/2008 -
nmoysey ??/2008 Lead

One of the best HVDs in the Peaks

with Ben Vickers
Rob1976 21/Oct/07 TR β
with Louise
Dan Lane ?/Oct/07 2nd O/S

really nice

with Dad
Jules Lane ?/Oct/07 Lead O/S

absaloutely brilliant route best route at grade in the peak

with Dan
Hidden 09/Sep/07 2nd
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Lead O/S
nige 01/Sep/07 Solo
tobydunford 29/Aug/07 Solo O/S
HC~R 23/Aug/07 2nd
with Geoff
jcurley 09/Aug/07 2nd
with Harry
edmitchell 04/Aug/07 -
with kai ren, kai en, steve
Hidden 04/Aug/07 Lead O/S
Reaver2k 09/Jun/07 2nd rpt

Matt decided to take a shot at Answer Crack this time, he had previously seconded it with me last time we were up there and looked pretty good all the way up, totally laced it but I don't blame him I always do the same! All his protection came out easily, not sure whether to be happy or scared, think they all looked okay though! I had a chat to a nice bloke at the bottom about people sliding down the water-slide thing at the bottom and about Dovestones Quarry whilst Matt set up his belay.

Barry D 05/Jun/07 Lead
with George
Hidden 02/Jun/07 2nd
david morse 02/Jun/07 Solo
with james collingwood
mje1398 29/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with John M
pog100 08/Apr/07 2nd O/S
hartke 08/Apr/07 2nd
with reaver2k
hartke 08/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with reaver2k
Reaver2k 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S

Great climb which lives up to its reputation. Great protection if a little tricky to place quickly. Truely is the Chew valleys answer to Heaven Crack. Quite similar, if it was warmer and a little less gritty I would probably have prefered it. My only problem was the protection at the very top of the climb, its very limited, not a too tricky top out but I was looking at a 10 ft fall onto gear meaning 20 foot in total. I moved right a bit and went up where I could see a jug and some nice hand holds. In whole would have been fantastic if my hands were a little warmer. Start is a little tricky for a HVD but if you can find your feet quickly it is fine.

with Dad, Neil, Matt, Alex and Katie
MeMeMe 11/Mar/07 Lead O/S
with Simon
cymjt ??/2007 -
John Marsland 01/Oct/06 Lead rpt
philwont 09/Sep/06 2nd
with Claire and Neil
alicia 12/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Jamie
duncana 12/Aug/06 Lead

Hard for grade, but lovely route.

with Pippa Archer
Kaiser999 ?/Aug/06 Lead
with Ste Williams
Hidden 29/Jun/06 Lead
Hidden 12/Jun/06 2nd
cem 11/Jun/06 Solo O/S
LAW 30/Apr/06 Lead O/S

Nervous energy flowed abundant. Very enjoyable. I found decent anchor points difficult to locate.

with Nick M
Si dH 07/Aug/05 Solo rpt
lithos 13/Jul/05 Solo
Matthallinan ?/May/05 Lead
with Nicky Winn
John Marsland 04/Sep/04 2nd
with Stefan Beyer
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Solo O/S
Simon Caldwell 31/Jul/04 2nd rpt
with Carmen
Si dH ?/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with Kane Chandler
coffeepot 20/Jun/04 2nd
with jelaby
five ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
with TW
Hidden 10/Aug/03 Lead
Michael Brown 04/Aug/03 Lead O/S
shaun walby 01/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with Chris Tan
Gman ?/Aug/03 Lead O/S
with James
jimshrimp 11/Jul/03 2nd
Simon Caldwell 31/May/03 2nd O/S
with Carmen
Pero 15/Sep/02 Lead
Steve Pardoe 14/Sep/02 Lead

Superb laybacks, good gear, after awkward start (nearly fell off)

keith leonard ??/2002 -
Howard J 01/Aug/00 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Jun/00 2nd
Blod 16/May/98 Lead O/S

Outstanding.

with Julie W
Neil Conway ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Steve Hardy
Phil West 25/Aug/97 2nd rpt
with Steve Wild & David Atherton
craig h 16/Jun/96 2nd O/S
barney@helmshore 13/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with helen bonner
John Southworth 09/Jul/95 Solo O/S
Roget 01/Jul/95 Solo O/S
Gordon Stainforth 19/Jun/95 2nd
with Pete Sutton, Kate Sutton
Martin Bennett 12/May/94 -
with Barry Hurst
StevePr ??/1994 -
with Alan
telemark ??/1994 Lead
with Joyce Ambrose
Phil West ?/Sep/93 Lead O/S
with Steve Wild
ste_d 07/Sep/91 Lead O/S
with mik
Hidden 01/Sep/91 Solo
ste_d 27/Jul/91 Lead O/S
with mik
craig h 23/May/91 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/May/91 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??/1990 Solo

on day out with slabman and Mark Gray

Chris Ellis 06/Jul/89 2nd

Dave led

with Paul Chambers, Dave Turner
Andy Say 22/Feb/87 Solo O/S
Hidden 10/Jul/86 Solo
Pete Pozman 03/May/84 Solo O/S
Tom V ??/1967 -
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Voting
High S
Mid S
Low S
High HVD
Mid HVD
Low HVD
High VD
Mid VD
Low VD
Votes cast 61
Votes cast 66
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Not Set