80m, 2 pitches. The awesome slab to the right of Mercury, starting from the same stance, is technically reasonable but a fine test of gear optimisation and composure. Easy for the grade with mostly adequate protection for the dilligent, but also a couple of potentially serious run-outs on pitch 2 - rescue would be inconvenient. The climbing is continually excellent.
P1. E3 5c 30m. Move right from the stance to gain a slim overlap with difficulty. Traverse delicately right and step across to ledges beneath an orange bulge. Pull over positively and follow a scoop until a step back left gains a featured slab beneath a small roof. Climb leftwards over this and straight up to a good picnic ledge.
P2. E4 5c 50m. Climb above the belay slightly rightwards to a small red fang. Step right and carefully gain a slim red groove. Follow this boldly to various gear below the next ledge. Stand up, take a deep breath, and climb the immaculate red slab on pockets - all rather lonely - straight up then left to gain the overlap with relief. Pull over this on the left, step right to the next overlap, then pull over this one left as well to eventually meet Mercury at the start of it's crux traverse - a very natural continuation to the climbing below. Finish up Mercury with plenty of elation and 50m of rope drag.

Ticklists: UK Lonely Leads.


ClimberDateStyle
frank ramsay 14/Jun/92 AltLd
with martin crocker
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