UKC

Rockfax Description
At the far left side of the buttress is a hanging flake, which is easier than it appears, especially for wall rats.
1) 5c, 15m. Move up to a ledge below the flake and arrange gear. Power up the flake quickly, reach over the top and mantel over. Make a difficult move back left across the hanging slab and move up to belay beneath the detached flake.
2) 5b, 12m. Attack the flake with gusto to the chimney-line above. Continue up this to an awkward belay.
3) 4b, 12m The groove above soon leads to a vague line up slabbier ground and the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List , Cracks And Corners To Greatness , Tremadog 2018/2019 , North Wales To Do List

Feedback

User Date Notes
MarkRoe 8 May, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: I was slightly worried about the big detached flake on pitch 2 - It's needed for both the belay and first runner, and you have to yard on it to get through the roof. I managed to place a good micro cam at full stretch in a little crack up and right, which gave at least a little bit of independence from the flake for the steepest moves.
Show beta
βeta: I was slightly worried about the big detached flake on pitch 2 - It's needed for both the belay and first runner, and you have to yard on it to get through the roof. I managed to place a good micro cam at full stretch in a little crack up and right, which gave at least a little bit of independence from the flake for the steepest moves.

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Voting
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 4
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Genericon Limits

Grade: E3 5c ***
(Clogwyn Yr Adar)

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