UKC

Rockfax Description
Steep and uncompromising with an incredibly intimidating second pitch. Start left of the oak tree below some grooves.
1) 5a, 20m. Climb the right-hand groove to join the Hyll Drem Girdle and follow this to the stance on the rib.
2) 5c, 24m. Move up the groove to get to a traverse line that leads right to an à cheval position on a spike, ride it cowboy! From the saddle, a tricky move right round a nose leads to a hand-crack in space with a jug at its top. Reach down and right to an undercut and pull right into the adjacent groove. Follow this on improving holds to eventually escape left to the belay on Hardd.
3) 4a, 12m. Much easier broken terrain leads to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, 20 Routes For 2017.


ClimberDateStyle
Dave Almond 19/Jul/17 AltLd dog

Vun crushed it whilst I had a little rest

with Vun
Hidden 18/Jul/17 AltLd O/S
Flavio 04/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

Apart from the hissing owl nesting in a pile of dead mice and the poo stalactites above this was bonkers and one of the best E3s around.

JendeHoxar 04/Jun/17 AltLd
with Flavio
Hidden 27/May/17 AltLd O/S
suds_01 25/Apr/17 AltLd dnf
with Mark Roe
richiebongo 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2. Without a doubt the wildest trad route i've ever done. Getting to the jug on the arete was hard but moving up from there was the crux. Had to dig very deep to keep on.

Dibdawg 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/Apr/15 2nd dog
pete johnson 26/Apr/15 Lead dog
Hidden ??/2015 -
switch 18/May/14 AltLd O/S
with Andy P
Hidden 09/Apr/14 Lead
Dan Vaj 28/Mar/14 2nd dog
with James McHaffie
rbharries 09/Dec/13 2nd dog

did last pitch in the dark. made my climbing better. leader was traumatised

with neils EW
Duncan Campbell 30/Jun/13 AltLd

Led p1. Had to pull on some gear to remove one of the cams, WILD! Good skills to Fingers.

with Fingers
eddy-on-the-rocks 10/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Flipping mental. Took ages to figure out how to start the crux.

tim newton 10/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Wow! Took ages trying to work out how to second the crux. So exposed/intense/scary till you get the jug, then climb quickly! Brilliant.

with ed
mr mills 13/May/12 AltLd rpt
with alun hughes
Hidden 02/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
geoff b 02/Oct/11 AltLd
owain86 24/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1, P2 is wild!

Alex Mason 24/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Wow. The epitome of intimidating, unlikely, wild and blind climbing in the space of 10ft. stand-still rope drag pulling round the crux almost had me off. Awesome.

Adam Lincoln 28/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Mick Lovatt
barni 04/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

top pitch space walk

with luke, Glyn
Luke Brooks ?/Mar/11 2nd
with Barni
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
dan gibson 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with blair fyffe
Hidden ?/Jul/10 2nd
mr mills 30/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Gareth
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 08/May/10 Lead O/S
with Richard Kirby
Rich Kirby 08/May/10 2nd O/S

Ace 3D behaviour. Out there!

jeffmcd56 ??/2007 AltLd O/S
with Wez
Brown 29/Oct/06 Lead O/S
with John
nicholas Barrowclough 12/Aug/05 Lead
akhughes ??/2003 Lead
Hidden 29/Jul/01 Lead O/S
pete johnson 09/Sep/00 Lead dog

Wet

with Nell Doust
Ched ??/1998 2nd
with Grant Farqhuar
clark alston ?/Jul/97 Lead O/S

Steep and brilliant.

Steve Crowe 01/Sep/95 Lead
michael burrows 11/Jun/95 2nd
with richard parry
Seymore Butt ??/1995 Lead
with Terry Holmes
John Southworth 09/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
with Mike Rudden
Bruce Kerr 15/Sep/90 AltLd
with Keith Turton
Hidden 11/Aug/90 Lead
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1989 AltLd
with George reah
Hidden 08/Jun/88 -
ukb & bmc shark ??/1988 Lead
Steve Lewis 20/Sep/87 Lead O/S
with Alun Richardson
Neil McA 03/May/87 Lead O/S
with Martin Mandel
Hidden 05/Jul/85 AltLd O/S
Mike Owen 06/May/85 Lead O/S
with John Peake
Ian Jones ??/1982 Lead O/S

Absolutely superb and very easy.

with Chris Gore
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High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 15
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 15
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set