840m.
SECTION 1 PROMONTORY TO GREAT CAVE F6a+ S1
Walk out to the Headland at the Southern Tip of the Old Redoubt. Locate a grassy gully 50m to your right (looking out) and descend this and the wall beneath on stacked flakes. A rightwards traverse (facing in) leads around the headland and into the Blue Grotto with its memorable bridging manoeuvre across a chasm. Climb wade or swim the Green Grotto depending on the tide and continue to the Great Cave.
SECTION 2 RAINBOW BRIDGE (REVISED) F7a+ S1
Waterline traversing leads right to the pocketed streaky wall and on to a low rest beneath the Pink Block. Onwards to The Crystal Cave and a rest before committing to the slopey crux sequence. Climb up the technical groove, break right and locate and downclimb Look, Before You Leap. Back at sea level a sequency crux around a rib (7a) leads into a sea cave (The Cauldron). Exit via the rope bridge and downclimb Eight Ball. Continue via the wild jug rail of The Wave. Terminal Zawn is negotiated by a safer (S0) variant (at mid-tide) which follows Rainbow Bridge to the hands off rest in a large niche/hole but then descends on the right to join Gluteas Maximus which is followed to a well earned rest on Terminal Zawn Ledge.
SECTION 3 OZ WALL TO WHITE RHINO TEA F7a S0
Follow Oz Wall Traverse to its junction with the pinnacle. Downclimb the left wall on calcite and sandstone jugs. A pumpy traverse of the cave wall leads to a rest on a rock bridge. Now ascend the easy crystal chimney back to daylight (Cavewoman). Now reverse Barnacle Traverse Continuation and take a rising line into White Rhino Tea and finish up that. Pumped yet?
ARTICLE HERE: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218
Walk out to the Headland at the Southern Tip of the Old Redoubt. Locate a grassy gully 50m to your right (looking out) and descend this and the wall beneath on stacked flakes. A rightwards traverse (facing in) leads around the headland and into the Blue Grotto with its memorable bridging manoeuvre across a chasm. Climb wade or swim the Green Grotto depending on the tide and continue to the Great Cave.
SECTION 2 RAINBOW BRIDGE (REVISED) F7a+ S1
Waterline traversing leads right to the pocketed streaky wall and on to a low rest beneath the Pink Block. Onwards to The Crystal Cave and a rest before committing to the slopey crux sequence. Climb up the technical groove, break right and locate and downclimb Look, Before You Leap. Back at sea level a sequency crux around a rib (7a) leads into a sea cave (The Cauldron). Exit via the rope bridge and downclimb Eight Ball. Continue via the wild jug rail of The Wave. Terminal Zawn is negotiated by a safer (S0) variant (at mid-tide) which follows Rainbow Bridge to the hands off rest in a large niche/hole but then descends on the right to join Gluteas Maximus which is followed to a well earned rest on Terminal Zawn Ledge.
SECTION 3 OZ WALL TO WHITE RHINO TEA F7a S0
Follow Oz Wall Traverse to its junction with the pinnacle. Downclimb the left wall on calcite and sandstone jugs. A pumpy traverse of the cave wall leads to a rest on a rock bridge. Now ascend the easy crystal chimney back to daylight (Cavewoman). Now reverse Barnacle Traverse Continuation and take a rising line into White Rhino Tea and finish up that. Pumped yet?
ARTICLE HERE: http://www.ukclimbing.com/articles/page.php?id=3218
FA. Ken Palmer 18/Aug/2010.
Ticklists
Devon DWS progression , Devon DWS Traverses , Deep Water
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Route of Interest
More Steam, Bigger Women!!!
Grade: 7b ***
(Anstey's Cove)