Rockfax Description
A stout exercise with a problematic initial wall, and a gradually steepening finale. Start just right of the Cocytus groove beneath a tiny corner/ramp.
Climb the deceptively-difficult ramp boldly to the first bolt, then make some fierce, fingery moves above this to an easing. The arching wall above is furnished with some decent, but spaced holds. Lower-off. © Rockfax

FA. Nick White 30.5.88 30/May/1988

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.

felixwilkins 04/Nov/17 Lead RP
Hidden 19/Jul/17 Lead RP
Ged Desforges 16/Jun/17 -

Good stuff. Couple of pretty thin moves low down then steady

Marti999 28/Apr/17 Lead RP
keepguessing 11/Apr/17 Lead RP
with Matt
tobydunford 02/Apr/17 Lead rpt
with Oli
Hidden 01/Jan/17 Lead
Dizz 25/Sep/16 TR

Trying the short v hard section ... v hard!

with Andy m
Dizz 24/Sep/16 TR

Working moves - got them all, need to link

with Andy m
ferdia 27/Aug/15 Lead RP

3rd go. you dont want to be in the sun on the crux

Matt.c.Warner 20/Aug/15 Lead RP
Alex Mason 23/Jul/15 Lead G/U

Clipped first runner on cocytus 2nd time round. Makes it much safer with a light belayer.

with Jemma Powell
Marti999 09/Jun/15 Lead dog
with Vic, Alex Dennis
AlexD 09/Jun/15 2nd dog
with Vicky, Marti
Joe Costello 04/Jun/15 Lead RP

Went quite easily so must be soft!

climbomaniac 26/Apr/15 Lead RP

climbing to the first bolt onsight is pretty damn bold. Chickened out and preclipped it via cocytus, then fell at crux anyway. After a quick look and putting the rest of the quickdraws in went 2nd go. Superfun climbing!!

JM 12/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Rob McEwan
alice fuller 07/Apr/15 Lead RP

top roped the crux,fell off until i had some brill beta from Nick Baron-Not about to lead it:) in Aug 2014. Toproped whole route with one fall. Good beta from Pete. May have to try a lead... and done:) got some useful beta with Luke and it went:)

Hidden 07/Apr/15 Lead RP
PeterDawson 24/Mar/15 Lead RP
tobydunford 08/Feb/15 TR RP
with Tomar
Hidden 01/Feb/15 Lead O/S
Lee_Meaden 25/Jan/15 Lead RP
lawsy_boy1 24/Jan/15 Lead
5210Hill 24/Jan/15 Lead RP
rhoslynfrugtniet 25/Nov/14 Lead RP
with gavla
Michelle W 19/Oct/14 Lead RP

Brilliant route with a bit of everything

with Bron
quiffhanger 04/Oct/14 Lead RP

V close to the onsite, popped of crux, pulled ropes and did second go straight away. Only a couple thin moves really.

with Ian C
Hidden 04/Sep/14 Lead rpt
guy xavier percival 12/Mar/14 Lead RP

Good route with a short hard crux between bolts 1 and 2

with paul
Russell Blackaller 01/Mar/14 Lead RP

Brilliant and varied. Outstanding crux. Awesome day!

with Luke
kingholmesy ??/2014 Lead RP
with RusseyB
Ellis Butler-Barker 12/Dec/13 Lead O/S

Quality route! Not a lover if slabs but this is awesome!

with Jamie
Hidden 16/Nov/13 Lead RP
jonleighton 16/Nov/13 Lead RP


dmoir 26/Sep/13 Lead RP
with Derwood
dannyboy83 14/Sep/13 Lead RP

Very good and I don't even like slabs!

alek 08/Jun/13 Lead dnf
Hidden 08/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 30/May/13 Lead RP
Hidden 26/May/13 Lead
Dan 85 06/May/13 Lead RP
with Sam, Andy H
Luke Dawson 27/Apr/13 Lead O/S

proper good more people should climb these routes

Ed morris 20/Apr/13 Lead RP

Brief play on the crux moves then led first go. The rock quality at the top is amazing!

with Colin
Hidden 17/Jan/13 Lead RP
tommytuffa 18/Nov/12 Lead RP

2nd go. Could really do with another bolt or three. Enjoyed the moves. Good idea to extend 2nd bolt, to avoid decking potential.

with ollie b
Mike_Hayes 16/Oct/12 Lead RP

2nd go in the dark

Jeronimo 09/Sep/12 Lead β
Hidden 09/Sep/12 Lead RP
rustaldo 11/Jul/12 Lead dnf

very fingery. harder than it looks. quite polished low down.

Hidden 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 18/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Anything Ian told me was totally useless, so I'm having the onsight! :)

Oddjob 14/Apr/12 Lead RP
with Tom
Hidden 06/Apr/12 Lead RP
Rob Pitt 20/Feb/12 Lead β
with Nick Saunders
Hidden ??/2012 -
Graham Atkins 10/Dec/11 Lead
i_a_coops 16/Sep/11 Lead RP
with Matt
Marti999 03/Sep/11 Lead dog
Bristoldave 20/Aug/11 Lead RP
Chris Redding 11/Aug/11 TR dnf

Just climbed to the 2nd bolt, might have been weighting the rope a bit on the crux move

Daniel Wicks 11/Aug/11 Lead β
billb ?/Aug/11 Lead
with Graham A
Pippa 26/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Jon
pezzerrr 15/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 15/May/11 TR dog
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2010 -
eddieclimb 01/Dec/09 Lead RP

Broke my foot on first attempt in August so had to come back and send those demons to sleep, bolts not very sportingly placed so still has the E5 dartmoor guide feel to it! Be warned!

with Rebecca Edwards
Billg 28/Jun/09 Lead RP

Blew the on sight by missing a foothold! only 1 short hard section followed by no hands rest and a steep wall on good holds

with James Kauntze
Paz 22/Sep/08 Lead RP

A wonderful surprise to get this. Made up for getting burnt off on Empire by burning off the other lads on a hideous slab move (you don't have to hang around on and lock off the tweaky LH crimp if you get a high R foot and gaston/ lay away a seam.

with AB, MT, EB
Paz 07/Jun/06 Lead dnf

Probably not -too- bad but horrible in the heat.

with AB, AS
Hidden ??/2006 Lead O/S
ukb & bmc shark 28/May/97 Lead RP
goi.ashmore 28/Aug/94 Lead RP
with Simon Coles
Hidden 01/Nov/86 Lead O/S
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Votes cast 24
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set