Rockfax Description
Steady climbing with a bold feel. Gear in the midway break gives protection that is just about adequate. Climb the reachy lower wall via a thin crack to ledges then attack the upper face by a line of (small) chipped holds. The route is substantially harder for the short. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The centre of the smooth face, taken very directly via chipped holds to finish. A long reach to the first of the twin breaks provides the technical crux, having patience and skill to fiddle in adequate gear in the upper break provides the adjectival crux. E2 with side-runners.

FA. Hank Pasquill 1967

Ticklists: ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Wilton wanderers.

sopaz 24/Sep/17 2nd O/S


with Deacon
deacondeacon 24/Sep/17 Lead RP

Paul led the vs traverse so I seconded the top half of this. Was so good I went back down and led it. Well cool.

pie_eater_pete 25/Aug/17 -
Hidden 29/Jul/17 TR
Climbster 23/Jul/17 Lead dnf

Pulled off by the Plum, then it got all wet. Fnarr

with Vick
chrishedgehog 13/Jul/17 TR O/S
with Kieran Myles
Hidden 26/May/17 2nd rpt
Flavio 26/May/17 Lead O/S
Coel Hellier 01/May/17 Lead
andybirtwistle ??/2017 -
LeeTweedale ??/2017 TR O/S
Graeme Hammond 25/Oct/16 2nd rpt
with Andy G
Hidden 25/Oct/16 Lead
Dr Toph 08/Oct/16 Solo O/S
Scott Quinn 25/Sep/16 Lead O/S

cool route chipped holds are jugs - after looking at everyone's side runners etc. I'm saying I didn't cheat routes only about e2 anyway

CMoore 25/Sep/16 2nd O/S
tunnah 25/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with scott
steveleahy 24/Sep/16 2nd rpt
with Matt Foot
KeenClimber 24/Sep/16 2nd O/S
with Jim
jimxxx 24/Sep/16 Lead dnf
Elliot King LC&CC 08/Sep/16 Lead RP
with Rob Powell
Longsufferingropeholder 23/Jul/16 2nd O/S
GeorgeNunn ?/Jun/16 TR O/S
with George Reeder
Hidden 27/May/16 2nd
Hidden 22/Apr/16 Lead dnf
tobydunford 17/Apr/16 TR O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
samrad 13/Apr/16 Lead β

No specific beta on the moves just that the hold were "alright" and to use opposing nuts before moving up. I am glad that the holds were much better than they looked from below.

with Dominique
Kris2fa ?/Jan/16 2nd
Adam24B ??/2016 Lead O/S
lukehodson 04/Oct/15 TR O/S
Mike Hood 30/Sep/15 Lead
with jordan
chris fox 28/Sep/15 Lead RP

Headpointed then led placing gear

Mike Hegarty 28/Sep/15 Lead RP
with Christian Fox
timmsy 22/Sep/15 TR

could just reach

with lionel
Theo Moore - UKC and UKH 19/Sep/15 Lead β
Martin Davies 19/Sep/15 Lead G/U

Finally! Great moves at the top, heart in mouth. Toproped a few years ago.

with Ollie Lister
robertmctague 19/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Marika
amccann 06/Sep/15 Lead β

On Harry's gear. Fairly easy, crux is below the last gear.

Matt Groom 06/Sep/15 Lead
harry_lewis 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
themattyshep 12/Jun/15 TR O/S
Maddie 07/Jun/15 TR O/S


with Micha
JimHolmes69 13/May/15 Lead rpt
AndyPratt88 13/May/15 2nd
with Jim
Hidden 23/Apr/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/15 Lead
AndyPratt88 22/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Jim
JimHolmes69 22/Sep/14 Lead rpt
gingerwolf 13/Sep/14 TR RP
Hidden 10/Sep/14 2nd dog
mattnuttall 07/Sep/14 Lead rpt
with Lewis ashton, Andy Wilson
liam.ashton 07/Sep/14 -
Andrew Wilson 07/Sep/14 2nd rpt
with Matt Nuttall
jordan graham 07/Sep/14 TR O/S
AnitaClimb 06/Sep/14 TR dog
with Jen, Chris and Daz
Hezzy07 06/Sep/14 TR dnf

2 moves off top

Hidden 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Sep/14 2nd dog
MichaelGallimore 28/Aug/14 Lead RP

Climbed with side runners in horizontal break. Really happy with this.

with sally
Alice Thompson 25/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Sally
GPN 09/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Didn't cheat - no side runners, they're clearly not in at the grade!

with Greg
Hidden 30/Jul/14 Lead
Hidden 30/Jul/14 2nd O/S
Bloke on a Rope 26/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Top climbing, pretty exciting at the top but the crux is still the rock over low down, didn't cheat.

with Matt
Climbster 26/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Ian
robman 23/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Adam Coles 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Stu
Robb Bert 25/Jun/14 Lead
BigTone 21/Jun/14 TR rpt

My testicles are not large enough to lead this

Hidden 21/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Jelly ?/May/14 2nd O/S

brilliant little route. pretty bold for the leader.

GeorgeClimbs ?/May/14 Lead RP

flashed on toprope, done on lead, single rope without side the rain

with james cropper
John Gale 14/Apr/14 2nd β
Paul Clarke ??/2014 AltLd
with Andy Dunhill, Dave Sharples
Hidden ??/2014 -
StuartCJones ?/Oct/13 2nd
Hidden 22/Sep/13 Lead O/S
mattnuttall 14/Sep/13 Lead

always bit scary... will those runners hold? My opinion is perhaps not.

with Lewis
rustaldo 27/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Aug/13 2nd
Jacob Forshaw 25/Aug/13 TR O/S
bgreen3761 25/Aug/13 TR O/S
khalidq 25/Aug/13 TR β
bwestwood 10/Jun/13 2nd
pie_eater_pete 10/Jun/13 Lead β
with bwestwood
Danny Crump 04/Jun/13 TR
with Ben Humphris
Hidden 31/May/13 2nd rpt
BigTone 13/Apr/13 TR rpt
Gramps24 13/Apr/13 TR rpt
with BigTone
stoo2k 05/Apr/13 TR β

Lovely moves, did laps on TR... could probably lead it but didn't fancy ground-fall potential! Ethics be damned, I like my ankles!

with Craig
TraverseKing 10/Mar/13 -
Mackinclimb 20/Feb/13 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2013 TR
Hidden 15/Nov/12 TR dog
Hidden 21/Oct/12 TR β
Mike Hood 14/Oct/12 TR
Mike Hood 14/Oct/12 Lead dog
peaker16 14/Oct/12 Lead
Alex Munnery 14/Oct/12 Lead β
NathanW 14/Oct/12 Lead β
with WetterBoyz, Alex Munnery
HarryB 06/Aug/12 TR
with Shunt
ben1987 24/Jul/12 2nd O/S


Jack.Beech ?/Jul/12 TR

Loved the moves. A future lead??

g1m147 19/Jun/12 TR
steveleahy 10/Jun/12 Lead RP

actually climbing is easy, just need to forget about the run out to decent gear. First E3 but seems very soft for E3, E2 is more like it.

with Dave Allen, Neil Davies
JonnoP 27/May/12 -
with Paul Burke
nepsoi999 14/May/12 Lead O/S
with pete
Hidden 12/May/12 Lead rpt
stumbler555 06/May/12 Lead O/S


Nick Nitro ?/May/12 Lead O/S
MichaelGallimore 01/Apr/12 TR O/S

nice reachy moves.

with Ibrahim, Pete, MikeR
pchaplin 01/Apr/12 2nd
mike.rigby 01/Apr/12 TR RP

Must return to lead this route. some interesting moves, especially the big reach in the middle. Enjoyed this route a lot.

with Pete Chaplin, Ibrahim, Mike Gallimore
Graeme Hammond 31/Mar/12 Lead rpt

Had climbed top section before, thought the lower part (done O/S) isn't a push over. Bold but fairly straight forward.

Chi Cheng 28/Mar/12 Lead dog

Fell off low

Olli-C 28/Mar/12 2nd O/S

hardest bit was hanging on while taking the gear out, too tall for those breaks

with Chi
pie_eater_pete 26/Mar/12 2nd rpt
bwestwood 26/Mar/12 Lead
Mike Hood 25/Mar/12 TR
peaker16 24/Mar/12 TR
Hidden ??/2012 -
Martin Davies 01/Aug/11 TR O/S

One to come back and lead at some point!

Hidden 24/Jul/11 TR
daftendirekt 19/Jun/11 2nd dog
with Lewis Andrew, John Lynch
Hidden 18/Jun/11 2nd
highrepute 18/Jun/11 Lead O/S
pbphil169 27/May/11 -
Tony Holdsworth 27/May/11 2nd dog
with Adam Hughes
andy_e 21/May/11 TR dog
agolay 04/May/11 TR dog

The start leads you into a false sense of security the mid section stretches you but is passed with a sneaky undercut and the top tries to break you by presenting you a worthless two finger pocket, fortunatly the first one is the worst!

with Ant
jamesgodwin64 25/Apr/11 TR β

as a top rope loved it but as a attempted lead from last time i didnt the climbing is super but the gear doesnt fill me with too much hope.

mattnuttall 27/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Alastair Whittaker, Matthew Tink Taylor
spidey 26/Mar/11 Lead

nice route on chipped holds

with adam
adam06 26/Mar/11 2nd
with Ryan
Lunar25 05/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Titi, Gedas
Law1980 ??/2011 TR O/S
pbphil169 ??/2011 Lead β
Hidden ??/2011 Lead rpt
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
mattnuttall ??/2011 Lead rpt
with Alan Holden
Hidden 26/Nov/10 Lead
Hidden 26/Nov/10 2nd O/S
Ally Smith 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S
petellis 30/Oct/10 Lead O/S

Sgrit. A bit bold but very easy straightforward climbing up top. Wouldn't have been suprised if it got E1.

with Ally
pie_eater_pete 04/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Jo
mshorter 01/Aug/10 Lead
with dunc
akhughes 29/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
hardoreVdiffBen 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with Remus
Hidden 03/Jul/10 Lead O/S
nic42 03/Jul/10 2nd O/S
with maria, Jack
Hidden 26/Jun/10 Lead β
Hidden 21/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Calder 16/Jun/10 2nd
with Mark
Diggler 16/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with Calder
Andrew1 11/Jun/10 2nd
with Tom N
will9911 ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with adam
richorme 31/May/10 TR dog

Played on a Shunt, did it twice. First time - climbed smoothly to break, long reach. Got myself over stretched and couldn't see feet getting off the ledge, had trouble seeing holds. Missed the top - wouldn't have wanted to do that on lead !!! Second time - again pretty smoothly to break, seemed more in control this time. Again cocked up getting off the break, for the same reason ! Tried it again, and either got to top in opne go, or maybe had a rest after getting on the last two crimps. It's all in the feet !!!!

JulesV 09/May/10 Lead O/S
with Shauna Cunningham
Shauna 09/May/10 2nd O/S
with Jules
PeteH 27/Apr/10 Lead O/S

The crux was fiddling all the gear in at the break!

HansUDes 24/Apr/10 TR dnf
hellboundblr 12/Apr/10 TR
with John Carlin
tomvet2b 03/Mar/10 TR O/S

Amazing climb, its a shame it is chipped and not natural, but the top moves are smooth and it flows really well. Next aim is to lead it clean, with the scary bold finish!

with Emma uni
Hidden 01/Jan/10 -
efrance24234 ??/2010 -
hilty ??/2010 Lead O/S
mick grim ??/2010 -
pie_eater_pete ??/2010 -
bwestwood ??/2010 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden ??/2010 TR O/S
Lunar25 ??/2010 TR O/S
dave mann ??/2010 Lead O/S
davewsargent 08/Oct/09 2nd
dannyboy83 25/Sep/09 Lead O/S
with Alice
Hidden 07/Sep/09 Lead
middlevern 08/Aug/09 2nd
Toby Dunn 08/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Nick Verney
Marti999 06/Aug/09 Lead RP

the very limit of my reach

Hidden 09/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Tomprusk 24/May/09 TR
with Matt
Hidden 08/May/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Apr/09 Lead
Hidden 13/Apr/09 Lead O/S
Si dH 13/Apr/09 2nd dog

fell off crux first time - went up with wrong hand. Bit silly really, hard for 5b though.

with Neil Furniss
Jacob Bloodworth ??/2009 Lead β
Leofallon 11/Sep/08 TR
Leofallon 11/Sep/08 TR
Tom Phillips 11/Sep/08 TR O/S
with leo
OffshoreAndy 30/Aug/08 2nd
Boe Jailey 28/Aug/08 TR
with Jhonny
Andrew1 30/Jun/08 Lead
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead β
Hidden 07/Jun/08 TR
skittles 07/Jun/08 TR O/S

very nice moves, managed to do it cleanly and would like to go back and lead it if i was feeling extremely confident and knew what gear i could place in the break half way up - if there's any.

Hidden 22/May/08 TR O/S
Hidden 15/May/08 AltLd
Hidden 11/Feb/08 Lead RP
kingholmesy ??/2008 Lead O/S
DavidR 14/Jul/07 TR O/S
with Holly Adamthwaite & Matt Hopkinson
Hidden 02/May/07 TR
tomB 26/Mar/07 TR β
greylag ??/2007 2nd
philwont 08/Jul/06 TR
with Neil
Hidden ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/2006 TR rpt
Johann ??/2006 Lead RP
with Dan Price
Ben1983 ?/May/05 Lead O/S
Dave Westby ??/2005 TR

Needs a sky hook and good nerves.

Hidden ??/2005 TR O/S
Iggy_B ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Dave Hammond
Hidden ?/Aug/04 Lead
datoon 27/Jul/04 Lead O/S
with RT
Hidden ?/Jul/04 2nd O/S
keith leonard ??/2004 2nd
Rich Guest ?/Sep/03 Lead RP

Shudders in ethical shame. About the first and last time I headpointed a route. 1 flash on top rope followed by 1 crux practice. It was early in my career and i`ve since banned such foolishness. At the time though I was buzzzzzin. Silly twat!

Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead RP
Mark Collins 07/Jun/03 Lead β
with Andy Timms
Rob Davies 29/Mar/03 TR
with Angus McLean
Mark Collins 04/Jan/03 Lead O/S
noah ??/2003 TR O/S
Neil Henson ??/2003 TR
Richard Bradley ??/2003 TR
with none
Mark Collins 21/Dec/02 TR RP
Mark Collins 21/Dec/02 TR
Mark Collins 17/Nov/02 TR dog
Mark Collins 09/Nov/02 TR dog
Hidden ?/Oct/02 Lead O/S
Leofallon 19/Jun/02 Lead rpt


Leofallon 16/Jun/02 TR rpt

Petzl Shunt

Hidden ?/May/02 Lead O/S
A Crook 15/Aug/01 TR
with Rich Alston
dan_o_b ?/Jun/01 2nd O/S
DafSWMC 05/May/00 Lead O/S
with Nick M
Roget 26/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with jon
bronsonite 15/Jun/98 Lead O/S
with Nathan Lawrence
Chris Reid 29/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with Dave Plummer
Hidden ??/1997 -
p.crooky#1 06/Jul/96 Lead
with Dave Taylor
Martin Bennett 30/May/96 TR
with Phil, SF
Hidden 01/May/96 TR
ellie macpherson ?/Aug/95 2nd

Brilliant for a chipped route. Lovely moves

with Graeme Jarvis, Ian Holmes
Hammy 28/Aug/94 TR
with Pete Robinson
John Southworth ?/Jul/94 Lead O/S
CBA ??/1994 -
mattnuttall 07/Sep/93 Solo rpt
with Alan Holden
Hidden 12/Jul/93 TR O/S
Stoney Boy 06/Jun/93 2nd O/S
with Neil McCallum
mattnuttall 05/Jun/93 Solo rpt
adi bryant 04/May/93 TR
Tony Little 16/Aug/92 Lead O/S
with Merk
Neil R 07/Jul/92 2nd
with Mark
Hidden 01/Jul/92 2nd
mattnuttall 21/May/91 Solo
mattnuttall ?/Apr/91 Lead
Hidden 12/Aug/90 TR
mattnuttall 22/Apr/90 TR
Hidden 03/May/89 TR
Hidden ??/1989 Lead
Rich Kirby ??/1989 2nd
Enty ??/1988 -
Chris the Tall ?/Jul/87 TR dnf

Failed to reach top by a couple of millimetres

Hidden 16/May/86 2nd
Hidden 18/Sep/83 TR
Mark Kemball 26/Aug/82 Solo
daviesxxx ??/1978 Lead

just my thing

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High E4
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High 5c
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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