Climbs 359
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 225m a.s.l
Faces NE

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The relief of latching the top hold!! What a run out!! © sincybabes

Crag features

An impressive quarry, owned by the BMC, with routes up to 26m tall. The best ones range from HS to E6. There is also some excellent bouldering. Some parts, including the striking prow, are quick drying, whereas others stay damp and green for much of the year.

Approach notes

Park just downhill from the Wilton Arms and head up the hill behind the car park.

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Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Rock up to Wilton 1 on Sat 14th/Sun 15th Sept..for the First Ever "WiltonFest". http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=550408 Much work has also been done to clean up some great routes on the lesser used sections of the quarry too, ready for leaders! Get down the allotment end to climb some newly cleaned quality routes that haven't had ascents in decades!
mcb - 02/Sep/13
Wilton One\'s one of the crags that\'s easily reachable from Bolton. I\'ve climbed there, and think it\'s one of the best crags in the area, well worth a look. There are plenty of stakes, suitable for self-protected routes and top-roping. The easiest routes are around the so called \"graveyard\" area, (yeah, very reassuring!) and at the opposite end of the wall, on the extreme left. The hardest routes are in the middle of the wall. And this is a big wall, a good three days solid climbing to be done here. Check out rockmonkey.co.uk for relevant information for young UK climbers.
Will - 31/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Woods
2 Sideshow f5  
3 The Grunt f6A 1
4 The Deep
-
HVS 5a 3
5 Ell's Arete V4 6a ** 2
6 Barbara's Man f7B *  
7 Bean Bag Wet f5 1
  The Allotment
9 Barbara Ann HVS 5b  
10 Rhonda
-
A2 3
11 Grassy HVS 5a 3
12 Rugosity Atrocity E2 5b * 11
13 Willow Wall
-
HS 4a 7
14 Asleep for Years
-
VS 4b 11
15 Press Intrusions
-
E2 5b 8
16 Falling Wall
-
E1 5b 1
17 Willow Arete
-
E1 5b * 13
18 It'll Be Rude Not To E6 6c ** 2
19 Kurma
-
VS 4b 2
20 Joanne E2 5b  
21 Adidas
-
HVS 5a 1
22 Puma
-
E3 5c ** 9
23 The Foot of an Oncoming Mexican
-
E4 6b * 2
24 Zapling
-
E3 6a * 1
25 Merchant Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
26 La Rue
-
HVS 5a  
27 Perimeter Walk E7 6b * 5
28 Beyond the Perimeter
-
E5 6a ** 5
29 Flimnap the Pirate
-
VS 4c * 7
30 Reeling in the Years
-
VS 4c 4
31 Big Al
-
E3 5c 2
32 Baby Arete
-
HVS 5a 2
33 Rope 'n' Rubber
-
E2 5c  
34 Grotty Muckden
-
VD 3
35 Midget Gem E3 6a 1
36 Tryptophane
-
HS 4a * 4
37 Pot-Pourri
-
VS 4c  
38 Under the Mat
-
E4 6a  
39 Lady Grinning Soul
-
HVS 5a  
40 Valine
-
VS 4c 4
41 Land
-
VS 4b 3
42 Boy Racer
-
E5 6a 3
43 Proline
-
E1 5b * 6
44 First Cut
-
HVS 5a * 6
45 Green Wall VS 4b * 8
46 The Pretentious Gallery
-
E5 6b ** 8
47 Dinah
-
E1 5b 9
48 Eliminator
-
E3 5c * 2
49 Ruby
-
VS 4c 8
50 Insertion
-
HVS 5b 3
51 Jean
-
VS 4c * 27
52 Gravitational Experiment
-
E4 6b 1
53 Crow's-nest
-
E1 5b 1
54 Headbutt Wall
-
E4 6a 1
55 Eccles' Escalator
-
VD 6
56 Lime Street
-
S 4a 3
57 Ordinary Route
-
E1 5b  
  Eliminator
59 Snakes f3  
60 Simon Says f7B  
61 Head Butt Wall f6B *  
62 Knee Butt f7A+ *  
63 Pellet Wall f6B  
64 Craven f7A+  
65 Gravitational Experiment f6C *  
66 Right Bastard f7B 1
67 Left Bastard f7A 1
68 Eliminator Right f6B  
69 Eliminator Left f6B 1
  The Pitface
71 Is it Cheesecake or Meringue?
-
HVS 5a 1
72 Power of the Mekon
-
E1 5b * 1
73 Grovel S 4a 1
74 Regatta de Blanc
-
VS 4c ** 13
75 Streaker
-
VS 4c 3
76 Georgina
-
S 4a 3
77 Jaws
-
HVS 5a * 2
78 The Mouth
-
VS 4c  
79 Ummagumma
-
HVS 5b 1
80 The Devil's Alternative
-
E5 6b  
81 Deodand E1 5b * 30
82 Silently Screaming
-
E3 6a ** 8
83 Transfiguration
-
VD 3
84 It E1 5c 3
85 This VS 4c 4
86 The Pit and the Pendulum
-
E6 6c **  
87 Dereck the Dead Duck E5 6c  
88 Erythrocyte
-
VS 4c 2
89 Sleepwalk
-
E4 6a *** 8
90 Born Slippy E3 6a  
91 Tornado HVS 5a 2
92 Astradyne
-
E5 6b **  
93 Houses of the Holy
-
VS 4c  
  The Mound
95 Greasy Spoon Yard Hard f7A+  
96 Greasy Spoon Yard f6B  
97 Once You Pop f6C+  
98 Centrefold f7B  
99 Went Like Fury f7B+  
100 Just a Minute f7A  
101 Snagglepuss f6A  
  Chimney Buttress
103 Paradox E2 5b ** 193
104 Parasite E5 6b ** 9
105 Leucocyte Left-hand E3 5c * 78
106 Leucocyte Right-hand VS 4c ** 159
107 The Hacker E4 6b * 10
108 The Hacker (Boulder Problem) f6A+ * 2
109 The Hacker sit start
-
f6C  
110 Digital Crusader
-
f6B  
111 Central Route E1 5b *** 458
112 Shieldbug f7A 3
113 The Shield
-
f6B+ 1
114 Shields of Glory
-
f6B+  
115 Max E3 5c *** 188
116 Womax
-
f6B  
117 Womax SS
-
f7A 1
118 Wombat Chimney E2 5b ** 174
119 The Soot Monkey E6 6c ** 6
120 The Soot Monkey (boulder problem)
-
f6C+ * 1
121 The Monkey Suit
-
f7A  
122 Builder's Bum
-
f6B  
123 Chimnea E6 6c 2
124 Toxic Billberrys E8 7a *  
125 Steeplejack E1 5c ** 6
126 Loopy E4 6a *** 34
Climb name Grade
127 Clean Sweep
-
E5 6a ** 7
128 Friends
-
HVS 4c 3
129 The Corner VS 4c * 45
130 L'Arete
-
E4 6a 5
131 La Triche f6C+ 1
132 Le Puriste
-
f7B  
133 L'Arete Traverse f6C ** 2
134 Foodle f6C 1
135 Oodle
-
f6C  
136 Fingertoe
-
f7C *  
137 Children of Arachne
-
f7A  
138 Pocket Wall f6A+ 8
139 Chimney Buttress Left
-
6b+  
140 Chimney Buttress to Foodle
-
7a+  
141 Chimney Buttress to Prow End
-
7b  
142 Chimney Buttress + Prow Inside
-
7b+  
  The Prow
144 Peanuts E1 5a 29
145 Horrock's Route VS 4c * 74
146 Horrock's Route Direct E1 5b 2
147 Fingernail VS 4c ** 558
148 Orange Peel VS 4c * 176
149 Sarah
-
HVS 5a 8
150 Sidepull Wall f6B 1
151 Besidepull Wall f7A 1
152 Crack Jack
-
f4 1
153 Crack Jack SS f6C 1
154 Flingle Bunt VS 4c * 234
155 King of Nothing Muck f6C 1
156 Spider Crack HVS 5a * 80
157 Spider Crack f3 5
158 Eyed A Crack f6B+ 1
159 Crack 4
-
f5  
160 Crack 1 f4 2
161 Jubilee Climb E1 5c 26
162 Eastern Terrace M 98
163 Lazy Friday E4 5c ** 52
164 Cameo E1 5a *** 722
165 Pathetique
-
E5 6b * 4
166 Wedgewood
-
HVS 5a 8
167 Big Frenchie f5 8
168 Blank Me
-
f5 2
169 Christeena VS 5a ** 445
170 Christine's Socks f4+ 11
171 Ultimate Gnarl
-
f7B+  
172 Energiser f7A+ 1
173 Get Your Font Tick Here
-
f6B 1
174 Top Hat
-
f6C+ *  
175 Leading Question f6A 5
176 Bottom Line
-
f6B+  
177 Christine Arete E4 5c ** 35
178 Dawn HVS 5b ** 658
179 Innominate E4 6b * 12
180 Innominate (boulder problem)
-
f6B+ **  
181 Eliminate VS 4c ** 414
182 Ann E1 5b ** 527
183 Cheat E3 5b *** 310
184 Cheat f4+ 8
185 Yoga for Climbers
-
f7A+ 2
186 Beneath Description
-
f5 2
187 Beneath Description sit start
-
f6A 3
188 Modern Girl E4 5c * 7
189 Arete Sitstart f5 5
190 Rambling Route VD ** 472
191 Recess f3 10
192 Clamp f4 8
193 Clamp sit start
-
f6A+ 3
194 Bird Chimney S 4a * 435
195 Flywalk Slab f7A * 3
196 Phenomenal Monkey
-
f6C 3
197 Flywalk VS 4c ** 543
198 Flywalk Direct
-
VS 5c 61
199 Flywalk f5+ * 9
200 Sidewalk
-
f6B 1
201 Flytrap VS 5a * 75
202 Veteran Cosmic Rocker E4 6c 2
203 Auto de Faye E3 5c  
204 Scimitar VD 143
205 Poor Man's Paunch
-
f5+ 4
206 Max's Dilemma M 8
207 Helix E1 1
  Opposite Wall
209 Geoff's Wall
-
E1 6a  
210 Baby's Bottom
-
HS 4b  
211 Brontosaurus
-
S 4a 3
212 Stegosaurus
-
VD 5
213 Nappy Rash
-
E1 5b 1
214 Nappy Rash (boulder problem)
-
f6A  
215 Opposition
-
VD 12
216 Spec Crack
-
D 5
  Jimmy Nip Buttress
218 Powerage
-
E5 6b  
219 Jimmy Nip
-
E3 6a * 5
220 Titanosaurus
-
E4 6a  
221 The Boulder Problem in the Sky E4 6b 1
  White Slab
223 White Crack
-
VD 1
224 Goon HVS 5a * 2
225 Crater Traitor
-
E6 6a 2
226 Red Flowers are Red
-
E2 5b  
227 Dandelion Groove
-
S 4a 4
228 Prickpocket
-
HVS 5a  
229 Snakebite
-
E4 6a  
230 Manglewurzle Rib HVS 5a * 9
231 Isle of White E4 6a *** 25
232 White Slabs Bunt E3 6a *** 56
233 White Lightnin
-
E5 6b ** 1
234 Strawberry Kiss
-
E7 6b * 4
235 Strawberry Kiss (boulder problem)
-
f6C  
236 So You Think You Can Dance
-
f7B  
237 Remembrance Corner VS 4c 31
  Remembarete
239 Remembarete Left
-
f5 2
240 Remembarete f6A * 4
241 Remembarete sit start f7A * 2
  G Buttress
243 Side Wall f6B 1
244 Lone Arete f5+ 5
245 Break Dyno f6A 3
246 Lone Arete Right f5+ 5
  Grey Wall
248 Sobeit E3 5c ** 21
249 Supercrack E3 5c *** 95
250 Life in the Fast Lane
-
E2 5c 1
251 In Memoriam
-
E2 5c 1
252 Patience
-
HVS 5a * 10
Climb name Grade
253 Impatience
-
E2 5c  
254 Dracula
-
E2 5b 4
255 Niche Indirect
-
E1 5c  
256 Western Terrace
-
S 4a * 10
257 Vampire
-
E3 6a * 3
258 Scary George E4 6a **  
259 Spike E4 6a 18
260 Run Wild, Run Free E6 6b *** 2
261 Ego Trip E5 6b ** 4
  The Pit
263 K.P. E6 6b ** 9
264 Josser E5 6a ** 2
265 Welcome to the Pleasuredome
-
E5 6b *  
266 Frightful Fred VS 4c * 18
267 Jimmy Mac, Bin Man Extraordinaire E2 6a  
268 Bohemia
-
HVS 5b 5
269 Daring Dan E5 6b **  
270 Adrenalin E4 6a *** 21
271 Chocolate Girl E7 6c ** 8
272 Grey And White Girdle HVS 5a * 1
273 Plenty of Zzzzs
-
E2 5b **  
274 Leaning Wall
-
f5+  
275 The Postman's Daughter
-
f6A **  
276 The Postman's Daughter sit start
-
f7A+ *  
277 Grandad's Chin
-
f7A **  
278 Slanting Hats and Spooky Cats
-
f6C **  
279 Traverse of the Underlings
-
f7A  
280 Midgesquito Crimpelopes
-
f7A+ *  
281 The Finish f5 2
  Red Wall
283 Knuckleduster HVS 5a * 27
284 The Fist Finish HVS 5b 2
285 Gigantic E8 6c ** 3
286 Thin Air
-
E5 6a * 1
287 Hot Air
-
E5 6b *  
288 Nothing Fantastic
-
E3 5c * 7
289 Blackout VS 4c ** 82
290 Clapped Out
-
E4 6b * 3
291 Master Spy E4 6a *** 50
292 Counter Intelligence E5 6b ** 16
293 Master Spy Direct E4 6a *** 49
294 Wipe Out E2 5b *** 172
295 Wipe Out start V0- 4b 5
296 Wipe Out variation 1 V1 5b 2
297 Black Mamba E4 6b ** 12
298 Mamba start V0- 4a 4
299 Shaggy Mamba
-
E6 6b **  
300 Black Dog Blues
-
E5 6b  
301 Shaggy Dog E4 5c * 5
302 Kettle Crack
-
E2 5c  
303 Fall Out Chimney
-
HS 4a 2
304 Myrmidon
-
E5 6b *  
305 Overtaker's Buttress
-
E3 5c 1
306 Tonight's the Night E4 5c  
307 Twazack Left-hand
-
VS 4c 2
308 Twazack Right-hand
-
VS 4c 1
309 Rebellion
-
E1 5b  
310 Roll Over
-
E2 5b 1
311 Dinosaur
-
HVS 4c 2
312 Slap Happy
-
E3 6a  
  999
314 Knock Out VS 4c ** 87
315 Great Slab VS 4c * 16
316 Virgin's Dilemma HVS 5a ** 94
317 999 HS 4b *** 740
318 Left Edge HVS 4c ** 20
  Snakey B
320 Sitting Ducks V0- 5b 4
321 Baby Fae f6B+ 3
322 Snakey Left Hand f6C 2
323 Snakey B f6C * 23
324 Snakey B Sit Start
-
f6C+ 1
325 Snakey B Original
-
f6C+ 2
326 Snakey B Original SS f7A 3
327 Snakey B Right Hand
-
f6B+ 3
328 Snakey B Right Hand Sit Start
-
f6C 1
329 Thulsa Doom
-
f7A+ *  
330 Low Traverse
-
f6C+ 1
  The Graveyard
332 Coffin Crack
-
VS 4c 5
333 Green Chimney
-
D 4
334 Chance Encounters
-
E3 5c *  
335 Susan
-
VS 4c 1
336 La Morte
-
HVS 5b 1
337 Undertaker's Crack
-
VS 4c 7
338 The Ultimate Sacrifice E6 6a ** 1
339 Join the Army, Get Yourself Killed
-
E5 6a ** 13
340 Soixante-neuf E2 5c * 9
341 Graveyard Direct
-
S 4a 6
342 Graveyard Ordinary
-
M 2
343 Bolton Buttress
-
S 4a 2
344 Mary
-
VD 1
345 Saturation Point
-
HVS 5a  
346 Coffin Digger's Spade
-
S 2
347 Catalespy
-
HS 4b  
348 Neddy's Walk
-
VD 1
349 Crash and Burn
-
HVS 5a 1
350 Ape
-
VD 5
351 Squeeze Me f6B  
352 The Very Cheek f6B 5
353 Horrorbix f6A * 25
354 5.2% Abv f6B 3
355 Overhanging Weetabix
-
E2 5c 2
356 The Crack (aka Overhanging Weetabix) V0- 4b 14
357 The Overhang
-
VS 23
358 The Move f7A * 9
359 The Move Sit Start
-
f7A+ 5
360 The Move (no back wall)
-
f7B 3
361 Horror Arete VS 5b * 25
362 Horror Arete f6A * 30
363 Beer Belly f6B+ 16
364 Beer Belly Sit Start f6C * 9
365 Avoidance
-
D 18
366 Chocky
-
S 15
367 Last But One
-
VD 1
368 Laid Back V3 6a 14
369 Laid Back variation 1 V5 6b 2
370 Laid Back variation 2 V2 5c 5
371 Graveyard Slab
-
HS 4a 19
372 Graveyard Slap f6A 14
373 Graveyard Slap Sitter V3 6a 5
374 Tombstoned
-
HVS 5a  
  Unknown location
376 Dave's Problem
-
V0 5a 2
377 Happy Campus
-
V1 5b 2
378 Munchkin Traverse
-
V1 5a 2

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