UKC

Climbs 310
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 225m a.s.l
Faces NE

The relief of latching the top hold!! What a run out!! © sincybabes

Crag features

An impressive quarry, owned by the BMC, with routes up to 26m tall. The best ones range from HS to E6. There is also some excellent bouldering. Some parts, including the striking prow, are quick drying, whereas others stay damp and green for much of the year.

Approach notes

Park just downhill from the Wilton Arms and head up the hill behind the car park.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Rock up to Wilton 1 on Sat 14th/Sun 15th Sept..for the First Ever "WiltonFest". http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=550408 Much work has also been done to clean up some great routes on the lesser used sections of the quarry too, ready for leaders! Get down the allotment end to climb some newly cleaned quality routes that haven't had ascents in decades!
mcb - 02/Sep/13
Wilton One\'s one of the crags that\'s easily reachable from Bolton. I\'ve climbed there, and think it\'s one of the best crags in the area, well worth a look. There are plenty of stakes, suitable for self-protected routes and top-roping. The easiest routes are around the so called \"graveyard\" area, (yeah, very reassuring!) and at the opposite end of the wall, on the extreme left. The hardest routes are in the middle of the wall. And this is a big wall, a good three days solid climbing to be done here. Check out rockmonkey.co.uk for relevant information for young UK climbers.
Will - 31/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Woods
2 Sideshow f5  
3 The Grunt f6A  
4 Ell's Arete V4 6a ** 2
5 Barbara's Man f7B *  
6 Bean Bag Wet f5  
  The Allotment
8 The Deep
-
HVS 5a 2
9 Barbara Ann HVS 5b  
10 Rhonda
-
A2 3
11 Grassy HVS 5a 3
12 Rugosity Atrocity E2 5b * 10
13 Willow Wall
-
HS 4a 6
14 Asleep for Years
-
VS 4b 11
15 Press Intrusions
-
E2 5b 8
16 Falling Wall
-
E1 5b 1
17 Willow Arete
-
E1 5b * 13
18 It'll Be Rude Not To E6 6c ** 2
19 Kurma
-
VS 4b 2
20 Joanne E2 5b  
21 Adidas
-
HVS 5a 1
22 Puma
-
E3 5c ** 8
23 The Foot of an Oncoming Mexican
-
E4 6b * 1
24 Zapling
-
E3 6a * 1
25 Merchant Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
26 La Rue
-
HVS 5a  
27 Perimeter Walk E7 6b * 5
28 Beyond the Perimeter
-
E5 6a ** 5
29 Flimnap the Pirate
-
VS 4c * 7
30 Reeling in the Years
-
VS 4c 4
31 Big Al
-
E3 5c 1
32 Baby Arete
-
HVS 5a 1
33 Rope 'n' Rubber
-
E2 5c  
34 Grotty Muckden
-
VD 3
35 Midget Gem E3 6a  
36 Tryptophane
-
HS 4a * 4
37 Pot-Pourri
-
VS 4c  
38 Under the Mat
-
E4 6a  
39 Lady Grinning Soul
-
HVS 5a  
40 Valine
-
VS 4c 4
41 Land
-
VS 4b 3
42 Boy Racer
-
E5 6a 3
43 Proline
-
E1 5b * 5
44 First Cut
-
HVS 5a * 6
45 Green Wall VS 4b * 7
46 The Pretentious Gallery
-
E5 6b ** 8
47 Dinah
-
E1 5b 9
48 Eliminator
-
E3 5c * 1
49 Ruby
-
VS 4c 8
50 Insertion
-
HVS 5b 2
51 Jean
-
VS 4c * 20
52 Gravitational Experiment
-
E4 6b 1
53 Crow's-nest
-
E1 5b 1
54 Headbutt Wall
-
E4 6a 1
55 Eccles' Escalator
-
VD 6
56 Lime Street
-
S 4a 3
57 Ordinary Route
-
E1 5b  
  Eliminator
59 Snakes f3  
60 Simon Says f7B  
61 Head Butt Wall f6B *  
62 Knee Butt f7A+ *  
63 Pellet Wall f6B  
64 Craven f7A+  
65 Gravitational Experiment f6C *  
66 Right Bastard f7B 1
67 Left Bastard f7A 1
68 Eliminator Right f6B  
69 Eliminator Left f6B 1
  The Pitface
71 Is it Cheesecake or Meringue?
-
HVS 5a 1
72 Power of the Mekon
-
E1 5b * 1
73 Grovel S 4a 1
74 Regatta de Blanc
-
VS 4c ** 13
75 Streaker
-
VS 4c 2
76 Georgina
-
S 4a 2
77 Jaws
-
HVS 5a * 1
78 The Mouth
-
VS 4c  
79 Ummagumma
-
HVS 5b 1
80 The Devil's Alternative
-
E5 6b  
81 Deodand E1 5b * 28
82 Silently Screaming
-
E3 6a ** 7
83 Transfiguration
-
VD 3
84 It E1 5c 3
85 This VS 4c 2
86 The Pit and the Pendulum
-
E6 6c **  
87 Dereck the Dead Duck E5 6c  
88 Erythrocyte
-
VS 4c 2
89 Sleepwalk
-
E4 6a *** 5
90 Born Slippy E3 6a  
91 Tornado HVS 5a 2
92 Astradyne
-
E5 6b **  
93 Houses of the Holy
-
VS 4c  
  The Mound
95 Greasy Spoon Yard Hard f7A+  
96 Greasy Spoon Yard f6B  
97 Once You Pop f6C+  
98 Centrefold f7B  
99 Went Like Fury f7B+  
100 Just a Minute f7A  
101 Snagglepuss f6A  
  Chimney Buttress
103 Paradox E2 5b ** 167
104 Parasite E5 6b ** 7
105 Leucocyte Left-hand E3 5c * 69
106 Leucocyte Right-hand VS 4c ** 138
107 The Hacker E4 6b * 7
108 The Hacker (Boulder Problem) f6A+ * 1
109 Central Route E1 5b *** 400
110 Shieldbug f7A 2
Climb name Grade
111 Max E3 5c *** 156
112 Womax SS
-
f7A 1
113 Wombat Chimney E2 5b ** 134
114 The Soot Monkey E6 6c ** 6
115 Chimnea E6 6c  
116 Toxic Billberrys E8 7a *  
117 Steeplejack E1 5c ** 5
118 Loopy E4 6a *** 30
119 Clean Sweep
-
E5 6a ** 6
120 Friends
-
HVS 4c 3
121 The Corner VS 4c * 27
122 L'Arete
-
E4 6a 4
123 L'Arete Traverse f6C ** 1
124 Pocket Wall f6A+ 5
  The Prow
126 Peanuts E1 5a 24
127 Horrock's Route VS 4c * 67
128 Horrock's Route Direct E1 5b  
129 Fingernail VS 4c ** 476
130 Orange Peel VS 4c * 142
131 Sarah
-
HVS 5a 3
132 Sidepull Wall f6B 1
133 Besidepull Wall f7A 1
134 Crack Jack SS f6C 1
135 Flingle Bunt VS 4c * 195
136 King of Nothing Muck f6C 1
137 Eyed A Crack f6B+ 1
138 Spider Crack HVS 5a * 66
139 Spider Crack f3 2
140 Crack 1 f4 1
141 Jubilee Climb E1 5c 24
142 Eastern Terrace M 84
143 Lazy Friday E4 5c ** 46
144 Cameo E1 5a *** 574
145 Pathetique
-
E5 6b * 2
146 Wedgewood
-
HVS 5a 8
147 Big Frenchie f5 4
148 Christeena VS 5a ** 361
149 Christine's Socks f4+ 9
150 Energiser f7A+ 1
151 Leading Question f6A 3
152 Christine Arete E4 5c ** 28
153 Dawn HVS 5b ** 594
154 Innominate E4 6b * 11
155 Eliminate VS 4c ** 354
156 Ann E1 5b ** 435
157 Cheat E3 5b *** 268
158 Cheat f4+ 2
159 Modern Girl E4 5c * 7
160 Arete Sitstart f5 2
161 Rambling Route VD ** 387
162 Recess f3 2
163 Clamp f4 3
164 Bird Chimney S 4a * 352
165 Flywalk Slab f7A * 1
166 Flywalk VS 4c ** 465
167 Flywalk Direct
-
VS 5c 55
168 Flywalk f5+ * 5
169 Flytrap VS 5a * 66
170 Veteran Cosmic Rocker E4 6c 2
171 Auto de Faye E3 5c  
172 Scimitar VD 127
173 Max's Dilemma M 4
174 Helix E1 1
  Opposite Wall
176 Geoff's Wall
-
E1 6a  
177 Baby's Bottom
-
HS 4b  
178 Brontosaurus
-
S 4a 3
179 Stegosaurus
-
VD 4
180 Nappy Rash
-
E1 5b  
181 Opposition
-
VD 11
182 Spec Crack
-
D 5
  Jimmy Nip Buttress
184 Powerage
-
E5 6b  
185 Jimmy Nip
-
E3 6a * 3
186 Titanosaurus
-
E4 6a  
187 The Boulder Problem in the Sky E4 6b 1
  White Slab
189 White Crack
-
VD 1
190 Goon HVS 5a * 2
191 Crater Traitor
-
E6 6a 1
192 Red Flowers are Red
-
E2 5b  
193 Dandelion Groove
-
S 4a 4
194 Prickpocket
-
HVS 5a  
195 Snakebite
-
E4 6a  
196 Manglewurzle Rib HVS 5a * 9
197 Isle of White E4 6a *** 23
198 White Slabs Bunt E3 6a *** 50
199 White Lightnin
-
E5 6b ** 1
200 Strawberry Kiss
-
E7 6b * 4
201 Remembrance Corner VS 4c 28
  Remembarete
203 Remembarete f6A * 1
  G Buttress
205 Side Wall f6B 1
206 Lone Arete f5+ 3
207 Break Dyno f6A 2
208 Lone Arete Right f5+ 3
  Grey Wall
210 Sobeit E3 5c ** 20
211 Supercrack E3 5c *** 79
212 Life in the Fast Lane
-
E2 5c 1
213 In Memoriam
-
E2 5c 1
214 Patience
-
HVS 5a * 8
215 Impatience
-
E2 5c  
216 Dracula
-
E2 5b 3
217 Niche Indirect
-
E1 5c  
218 Western Terrace
-
S 4a * 10
219 Vampire
-
E3 6a * 1
220 Scary George E4 6a **  
Climb name Grade
221 Spike E4 6a 14
222 Run Wild, Run Free E6 6b *** 2
223 Ego Trip E5 6b ** 4
  The Pit
225 K.P. E6 6b ** 8
226 Josser E5 6a ** 1
227 Welcome to the Pleasuredome
-
E5 6b *  
228 Frightful Fred VS 4c * 17
229 Jimmy Mac, Bin Man Extraordinaire E2 6a  
230 Bohemia
-
HVS 5b 5
231 Daring Dan E5 6b **  
232 Adrenalin E4 6a *** 18
233 Chocolate Girl E7 6c ** 6
234 Grey And White Girdle HVS 5a * 1
235 Plenty of Zzzzs
-
E2 5b **  
236 The Finish f5 1
  Red Wall
238 Knuckleduster HVS 5a * 24
239 The Fist Finish HVS 5b 2
240 Gigantic E8 6c ** 3
241 Thin Air
-
E5 6a * 1
242 Hot Air
-
E5 6b *  
243 Nothing Fantastic
-
E3 5c * 6
244 Blackout VS 4c ** 70
245 Clapped Out
-
E4 6b * 3
246 Master Spy E4 6a *** 46
247 Counter Intelligence E5 6b ** 16
248 Master Spy Direct E4 6a *** 42
249 Wipe Out E2 5b *** 160
250 Wipe Out start V0- 4b 5
251 Wipe Out variation 1 V1 5b 2
252 Black Mamba E4 6b ** 10
253 Mamba start V0- 4a 4
254 Shaggy Mamba
-
E6 6b **  
255 Black Dog Blues
-
E5 6b  
256 Shaggy Dog E4 5c * 5
257 Kettle Crack
-
E2 5c  
258 Fall Out Chimney
-
HS 4a 2
259 Myrmidon
-
E5 6b *  
260 Overtaker's Buttress
-
E3 5c 1
261 Tonight's the Night E4 5c  
262 Twazack Left-hand
-
VS 4c 2
263 Twazack Right-hand
-
VS 4c 1
264 Rebellion
-
E1 5b  
265 Roll Over
-
E2 5b 1
266 Dinosaur
-
HVS 4c 2
267 Slap Happy
-
E3 6a  
  999
269 Knock Out VS 4c ** 63
270 Great Slab VS 4c * 12
271 Virgin's Dilemma HVS 5a ** 69
272 999 HS 4b *** 629
273 Left Edge HVS 4c ** 18
  Snakey B
275 Sitting Ducks V0- 5b 4
276 Baby Fae f6B+ 2
277 Snakey B f6C * 19
278 Snakey B Original
-
f6C+ 1
279 Snakey B Original SS f7A  
280 Snakey B Right Hand
-
f6B+ 1
281 Low Traverse
-
f6C+ 1
  The Graveyard
283 Coffin Crack
-
VS 4c 4
284 Green Chimney
-
D 4
285 Chance Encounters
-
E3 5c *  
286 Susan
-
VS 4c 1
287 La Morte
-
HVS 5b 1
288 Undertaker's Crack
-
VS 4c 5
289 The Ultimate Sacrifice E6 6a **  
290 Join the Army, Get Yourself Killed
-
E5 6a ** 8
291 Soixante-neuf E2 5c * 8
292 Graveyard Direct
-
S 4a 6
293 Laid Back V3 6a 10
294 Laid Back variation 1 V5 6b 2
295 Laid Back variation 2 V2 5c 5
296 Graveyard Slap f6A 9
297 Graveyard Slap Sitter V3 6a 4
298 Graveyard Ordinary
-
M 2
299 Bolton Buttress
-
S 4a 2
300 Mary
-
VD 1
301 Saturation Point
-
HVS 5a  
302 Coffin Digger's Spade
-
S 2
303 Catalespy
-
HS 4b  
304 Neddy's Walk
-
VD 1
305 Crash and Burn
-
HVS 5a 1
306 Ape
-
VD 5
307 Squeeze Me f6B  
308 The Very Cheek f6B 4
309 Horrorbix f6A * 19
310 5.2% Abv f6B 1
311 Overhanging Weetabix
-
E2 5c 2
312 The Crack (aka Overhanging Weetabix) V0- 4b 10
313 The Overhang
-
VS 20
314 The Move f7A * 9
315 The Move Sit Start
-
f7A+ 5
316 The Move (no back wall)
-
f7B 3
317 Horror Arete VS 5b * 21
318 Horror Arete f6A * 22
319 Beer Belly f6B+ 10
320 Beer Belly Sit Start f6C * 8
321 Avoidance
-
D 14
322 Chocky
-
S 12
323 Last But One
-
VD 1
324 Graveyard Slab
-
HS 4a 13
325 Tombstoned
-
HVS 5a  
  Unknown location
327 Dave's Problem
-
V0 5a 2
328 Happy Campus
-
V1 5b 2
329 Munchkin Traverse
-
V1 5a 2

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