Climbs 303
Rocktype Grit (quarried)
Altitude 225m a.s.l
Faces NE

The relief of latching the top hold!! What a run out!! © sincybabes

Crag features

An impressive quarry, owned by the BMC, with routes up to 26m tall. The best ones range from HS to E6. There is also some excellent bouldering. Some parts, including the striking prow, are quick drying, whereas others stay damp and green for much of the year.

Approach notes

Park just downhill from the Wilton Arms and head up the hill behind the car park.

Guidebooks

Western Grit

The 2009 edition of the award-winning guidebook to Staffordshire, Kinder, Bleaklow, Chew, Lancashire and Cheshire areas covered with photo-topos and descriptions.
More info
More Guidebooks:
Lancashire Rock (2016)
Lancashire Bouldering (2014)
Lancashire Rock (1999)

Out of print:
Rock up to Wilton 1 on Sat 14th/Sun 15th Sept..for the First Ever "WiltonFest". http://www.ukclimbing.com/forums/t.php?t=550408 Much work has also been done to clean up some great routes on the lesser used sections of the quarry too, ready for leaders! Get down the allotment end to climb some newly cleaned quality routes that haven't had ascents in decades!
mcb - 02/Sep/13
Wilton One\'s one of the crags that\'s easily reachable from Bolton. I\'ve climbed there, and think it\'s one of the best crags in the area, well worth a look. There are plenty of stakes, suitable for self-protected routes and top-roping. The easiest routes are around the so called \"graveyard\" area, (yeah, very reassuring!) and at the opposite end of the wall, on the extreme left. The hardest routes are in the middle of the wall. And this is a big wall, a good three days solid climbing to be done here. Check out rockmonkey.co.uk for relevant information for young UK climbers.
Will - 31/May/02
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Climbs at this crag

Climb name Grade
  The Woods
2 Sideshow f5  
3 The Grunt f6A  
4 Ell's Arete V4 6a ** 2
5 Barbara's Man f7B *  
6 Bean Bag Wet f5  
  The Allotment
8 The Deep
-
HVS 5a 2
9 Barbara Ann HVS 5b  
10 Rhonda
-
A2 3
11 Grassy HVS 5a 3
12 Rugosity Atrocity
-
E2 5b * 9
13 Willow Wall
-
HS 4a 6
14 Asleep for Years
-
VS 4b 11
15 Press Intrusions
-
E2 5b 8
16 Falling Wall
-
E1 5b 1
17 Willow Arete
-
E1 5b * 13
18 It'll Be Rude Not To E6 6c ** 2
19 Kurma
-
VS 4b 2
20 Joanne E2 5b  
21 Adidas
-
HVS 5a 1
22 Puma
-
E3 5c ** 7
23 The Foot of an Oncoming Mexican
-
E4 6b *  
24 Zapling
-
E3 6a * 1
25 Merchant Crack
-
HVS 5a 3
26 La Rue
-
HVS 5a  
27 Perimeter Walk E7 6b * 4
28 Beyond the Perimeter
-
E5 6a ** 5
29 Flimnap the Pirate
-
VS 4c * 7
30 Reeling in the Years
-
VS 4c 4
31 Big Al
-
E3 5c 1
32 Baby Arete
-
HVS 5a 1
33 Rope 'n' Rubber
-
E2 5c  
34 Grotty Muckden
-
VD 3
35 Midget Gem E3 6a  
36 Tryptophane
-
HS 4a * 4
37 Pot-Pourri
-
VS 4c  
38 Under the Mat
-
E4 6a  
39 Lady Grinning Soul
-
HVS 5a  
40 Valine
-
VS 4c 2
41 Land
-
VS 4b 3
42 Boy Racer
-
E5 6a 3
43 Proline
-
E1 5b * 5
44 First Cut
-
HVS 5a * 6
45 Green Wall VS 4b * 7
46 The Pretentious Gallery
-
E5 6b ** 8
47 Dinah
-
E1 5b 7
48 Eliminator
-
E3 5c * 1
49 Ruby
-
VS 4c 6
50 Insertion
-
HVS 5b 2
51 Jean
-
VS 4c * 16
52 Gravitational Experiment
-
E4 6b 1
53 Crow's-nest
-
E1 5b 1
54 Headbutt Wall
-
E4 6a 1
55 Eccles' Escalator
-
VD 6
56 Lime Street
-
S 4a 3
57 Ordinary Route
-
E1 5b  
  Eliminator
59 Snakes f3  
60 Simon Says f7B  
61 Head Butt Wall f6B *  
62 Knee Butt f7A+ *  
63 Pellet Wall f6B  
64 Craven f7A+  
65 Gravitational Experiment f6C *  
66 Right Bastard f7B 1
67 Left Bastard f7A 1
68 Eliminator Right f6B  
69 Eliminator Left f6B 1
  The Pitface
71 Is it Cheesecake or Meringue?
-
HVS 5a 1
72 Power of the Mekon
-
E1 5b * 1
73 Grovel S 4a 1
74 Regatta de Blanc
-
VS 4c ** 12
75 Streaker
-
VS 4c 2
76 Georgina
-
S 4a 2
77 Jaws
-
HVS 5a * 1
78 The Mouth
-
VS 4c  
79 Ummagumma
-
HVS 5b 1
80 The Devil's Alternative
-
E5 6b  
81 Deodand E1 5b * 29
82 Silently Screaming
-
E3 6a ** 7
83 Transfiguration
-
VD 3
84 It E1 5c 3
85 This VS 4c 2
86 The Pit and the Pendulum
-
E6 6c **  
87 Dereck the Dead Duck E5 6c  
88 Erythrocyte
-
VS 4c 2
89 Sleepwalk
-
E4 6a *** 5
90 Born Slippy E3 6a  
91 Tornado HVS 5a 2
92 Astradyne
-
E5 6b **  
93 Houses of the Holy
-
VS 4c  
  The Mound
95 Greasy Spoon Yard Hard f7A+  
96 Greasy Spoon Yard f6B  
97 Once You Pop f6C+  
98 Centrefold f7B  
99 Went Like Fury f7B+  
100 Just a Minute f7A  
101 Snagglepuss f6A  
  Chimney Buttress
103 Paradox E2 5b *** 165
104 Parasite E5 6b ** 6
105 Leucocyte Left-hand E2 5c ** 70
106 Leucocyte Right-hand VS 4c ** 139
107 The Hacker E4 6b * 6
108 The Hacker (Boulder Problem) f6A+ * 1
109 Central Route E1 5b *** 387
110 Shieldbug f7A 1
111 Max E3 5c *** 164
112 Womax SS
-
f7A 1
113 Wombat Chimney E1 5b ** 142
114 The Soot Monkey E6 6c ** 6
115 Toxic Billberrys
-
E8 7a  
116 Steeplejack E1 5c ** 4
117 Loopy E4 6a *** 35
118 Clean Sweep E5 6a ** 6
119 Friends HVS 4c 3
120 The Corner VS 4c * 26
121 L'Arete
-
E4 6a 3
122 L'Arete Traverse f6C ** 1
123 Pocket Wall f6A+ 2
  The Prow
125 Peanuts HVS 5a * 23
126 Horrock's Route VS 4b 66
127 Horrock's Route Direct E1 5b  
128 Fingernail S 4a ** 471
129 Orange Peel S 4a * 142
130 Sarah HVS 5a 3
131 Sidepull Wall f6B 1
132 Besidepull Wall f7A 1
133 Crack Jack SS f6C 1
134 Flingle Bunt VS 4c * 196
135 King of Nothing Muck f6C 1
136 Eyed A Crack f6B+ 1
137 Spider Crack HVS 5a * 66
138 Jubilee Climb E2 5c 24
139 Eastern Terrace M 83
140 Lazy Friday E4 5c ** 41
141 Cameo E1 5a *** 606
142 Pathetique
-
E5 6b * 2
143 Wedgewood
-
HVS 5a 8
144 Big Frenchie f5 3
145 Christeena VS 4c ** 358
146 Christine's Socks f4+ 6
147 Leading Question f6A 1
148 Christine Arete E3 5c * 26
149 Dawn HVS 5b *** 577
150 Innominate E3 6b 11
151 Eliminate VS 4c ** 347
152 Ann E1 5b * 441
153 Cheat E3 5b ** 276
154 Cheat f4+ 2
155 Modern Girl E4 5c * 7
156 Arete Sitstart f5 2
157 Rambling Route VD * 383
158 Recess f3 2
159 Clamp f4 3
160 Bird Chimney S 4a * 344
161 Flywalk Slab f7A * 1
162 Flywalk VS 4b ** 459
163 Flywalk Direct
-
VS 5c 55
164 Flywalk f5+ * 5
165 Flytrap HVS 5a 66
166 Veteran Cosmic Rocker E4 6c 2
167 Auto de Faye E3 5c  
168 Scimitar D 126
169 Max's Dilemma M 3
170 Helix E1 1
  Opposite Wall
172 Geoff's Wall
-
E1 6a  
173 Baby's Bottom
-
HS 4b  
174 Brontosaurus
-
S 4a 3
175 Stegosaurus
-
VD 4
176 Nappy Rash
-
E1 5b  
177 Opposition
-
VD 10
178 Spec Crack
-
D 5
  Jimmy Nip Buttress
180 Powerage
-
E5 6b  
181 Jimmy Nip
-
E3 6a * 3
182 Titanosaurus
-
E4 6a  
183 The Boulder Problem in the Sky E4 6b 1
  White Slab
185 White Crack
-
VD 1
186 Goon HVS 5a * 2
187 Crater Traitor
-
E6 6a 1
188 Red Flowers are Red
-
E2 5b  
189 Dandelion Groove S 4a 4
190 Prickpocket HVS 5a  
191 Snakebite
-
E4 6a  
192 Manglewurzle Rib HVS 5a 9
193 Isle of White E4 6a *** 22
194 White Slabs Bunt E3 6a *** 47
195 White Lightnin E5 6b ** 1
196 Strawberry Kiss E7 6b * 4
197 Remembrance Corner
-
VS 4c 27
  Remembarete
199 Remembarete f6A * 1
  G Buttress
201 Side Wall f6B 1
202 Lone Arete f5+ 3
203 Break Dyno f6A 2
204 Lone Arete Right f5+ 3
  Grey Wall
206 Sobeit E3 5c ** 19
207 Supercrack E3 5c *** 91
208 Life in the Fast Lane E2 5c 1
209 In Memoriam
-
E2 5c 1
210 Patience HVS 5a * 8
211 Impatience
-
E2 5c  
212 Dracula E2 5b 3
213 Niche Indirect
-
E1 5c  
214 Western Terrace S 4a * 10
215 Vampire E3 6a * 1
216 Scary George E4 6a **  
217 Spike E4 6a ** 14
218 Run Wild, Run Free E6 6b *** 1
219 Ego Trip E5 6b ** 3
  The Pit
221 K.P. E6 6b ** 7
222 Josser E5 6a ** 1
223 Welcome to the Pleasuredome
-
E5 6b *  
224 Frightful Fred VS 4c ** 16
225 Jimmy Mac, Bin Man Extraordinaire E2 6a  
226 Bohemia
-
HVS 5b 5
227 Daring Dan E5 6b **  
228 Adrenalin E4 6a *** 17
229 Chocolate Girl E7 6c ** 6
230 Grey And White Girdle HVS 5a * 1
231 Plenty of Zzzzs
-
E2 5b **  
232 The Finish f5 1
  Red Wall
234 Knuckleduster HVS 5a * 24
235 The Fist Finish HVS 5b 2
236 Gigantic E8 6c ** 3
237 Thin Air E5 6a *  
238 Hot Air E5 6b *  
239 Nothing Fantastic E3 5c * 6
240 Blackout VS 4b ** 64
241 Clapped Out E4 6b * 3
242 Master Spy E4 6a *** 44
243 Counter Intelligence E5 6b ** 13
244 Master Spy Direct E4 6a *** 36
245 Wipe Out E2 5b *** 155
246 Wipe Out start V0- 4b 5
247 Wipe Out variation 1 V1 5b 2
248 Black Mamba E4 6b ** 9
249 Mamba start V0- 4a 4
250 Shaggy Mamba E6 6b **  
251 Black Dog Blues
-
E5 6b  
252 Shaggy Dog E4 5c ** 3
253 Kettle Crack E2 5c  
254 Fall Out Chimney
-
HS 4a 2
255 Myrmidon E5 6b *  
256 Overtaker's Buttress E3 5c 1
257 Tonight's the Night E4 5c  
258 Twazack Left-hand
-
VS 4c 2
259 Twazack Right-hand
-
VS 4c 1
260 Rebellion
-
E1 5b  
261 Roll Over
-
E2 5b 1
262 Dinosaur
-
HVS 4c 2
263 Slap Happy
-
E3 6a  
264 Knock Out VS 4c * 62
265 Great Slab VS 4c * 11
266 Virgin's Dilemma HVS 5a ** 66
267 999 HS 4c *** 650
268 Left Edge HVS 4a ** 17
  Snakey B
270 Sitting Ducks V0- 5b 4
271 Baby Fae f6B+ 2
272 Snakey B f6C * 21
273 Snakey B Original
-
f6C+ 1
274 Snakey B Right Hand
-
f6B+ 1
275 Low Traverse
-
f6C+ 1
  The Graveyard
277 Coffin Crack
-
VS 4c 4
278 Green Chimney
-
D 4
279 Chance Encounters
-
E3 5c *  
280 Susan
-
VS 4c 1
281 La Morte
-
HVS 5b 1
282 Undertaker's Crack
-
VS 4c 4
283 The Ultimate Sacrifice E6 6a **  
284 Join the Army, Get Yourself Killed
-
E5 6a ** 7
285 Soixante-neuf
-
E2 5c * 7
286 Graveyard Direct
-
S 4a 6
287 Graveyard Slab
-
HS 4a 12
288 Laid Back V3 6a 6
289 Laid Back variation 1 V5 6b 2
290 Laid Back variation 2 V2 5c 5
291 Graveyard Slap V1 5b 7
292 Graveyard Slap Sitter V3 6a 3
293 Graveyard Ordinary
-
M 2
294 Bolton Buttress
-
S 4a 2
295 Mary
-
VD 1
296 Saturation Point
-
HVS 5a  
297 Coffin Digger's Spade
-
S 1
298 Catalespy
-
HS 4b  
299 Neddy's Walk
-
VD 1
300 Crash and Burn
-
HVS 5a  
301 Ape
-
VD 4
302 Squeeze Me f6B  
303 The Very Cheek f6B 4
304 Horrorbix f6A * 15
305 Overhanging Weetabix
-
E2 5c 2
306 The Crack (aka Overhanging Weetabix) V0- 4b 9
307 The Overhang
-
VS 18
308 The Move f7A * 8
309 The Move Sit Start
-
f7A+ 4
310 The Move (no back wall)
-
f7B 2
311 Horror Arete VS 5b * 20
312 Horror Arete f6A * 18
313 Beer Belly f6B+ 8
314 Beer Belly Sit Start f6C * 7
315 Avoidance
-
D 12
316 Chocky
-
S 10
317 Tombstoned
-
HVS 5a  
  Unknown location
319 Dave's Problem
-
V0 5a 2
320 Happy Campus
-
V1 5b 2
321 Munchkin Traverse
-
V1 5a 2

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