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USER ATTENTION

Advisory notice: Crows (most probably jackdaws) are reported to be nesting in the Graveyard area. Staying off routes/problems in this area will avoid possible disturbance.

 

Now owned by the BMC, this disused quarry has been dedicated as Open Access Land under the CRoW Act. A few things to consider when climbing at this crag:

  • Whilst generally good quality gritstone, there is potential for loose rock given the site is a former quarry, where blasting techniques were used to remove rock and ongoing weathering could also loosen rock over time (as with any other crag).
  • Consider wearing a helmet when climbing in the quarry.
  • Some routes in the quarry feature fixed equipment such as pegs, stuck trad gear, belay stakes and even a few bolts. Fixed equipment should always be treated with caution and it is up to each climber to make a judgement call whether they think it is reliable. Consider backing up fixed equipment with your own gear wherever possible.

If you're able to lend a hand on the cleanup sessions, someone on the 'Lancashire Rock Revival' group will point you in the right direction: https://www.facebook.com/groups/1566324270279682

18m.

Rockfax Description
The long clean groove that bounds the slab gives a fine piece of climbing, sustained and well-protected with a great line. © Rockfax

FA. Ken Powell 1963.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit: Top 50 , Lancashire's Finest , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Definitive *** Lancs Grit , 50 more great HS routes , McCoys Homestyle trad , ROCKFAX TOP 50s upto e3

Feedback

User Date Notes
liam 16 May, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: really enjoyable climb with bomb proof protection. I'de say more like 4b though
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: really enjoyable climb with bomb proof protection. I'de say more like 4b though
Kyuzo 26 Nov, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Awesome! Really great fun.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Awesome! Really great fun.
donkarlo 6 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best HS I have lead, a series of really good satisfying moves and safe as houses.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best HS I have lead, a series of really good satisfying moves and safe as houses.
Pekkie 14 Jul, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: One of the best climbs of its grade in the area. Not to be missed by the S/VS leader. Take plenty of gear!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: One of the best climbs of its grade in the area. Not to be missed by the S/VS leader. Take plenty of gear!

Logged Ascents

1046 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Wilton 1

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 133 users have this on their wishlist

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Voting
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
High S
Mid S
Low S
Votes cast 121
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
High 4a
Mid 4a
Low 4a
Votes cast 116
Votes cast 111
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Layback Crack

Grade: HS 4b ***
(Dovestones Edge)

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