The BMC has owned part of this popular sport climbing venue since 2005 (routes from Mr Cellulite’s Arete rightwards on the lower tier and from In the Jailhouse rightwards on the upper tier) and BMC land is actively managed for the benefit of climbers, walkers and conservation. Horseshoe varies from good quality, solid rock to significant areas of loose, hollow and blast shattered rock. Visitors should pay close attention at all times in case of loose rock and helmets are highly recommended whilst climbing or belaying.
In 2017, a re-bolting project took place on routes located on BMC owned land at Horseshoe to replace the old bolts and scale loose rock. The project replaced old fixed equipment of various vintage with new stainless steel glue in bolts, rationalised the bolt spacing on sport routes to reduce long runouts and standardised lower offs to double ring lower offs. A new lower off simulator has also been added to the large boulder below The Dust Bunnies on Main Wall to allow new sport climbers to practice re-threading rings before getting on the sharp end
19 routes were unfortunately decommissioned due to unstable or fractured rock which could not be scaled back to a solid state to place new bolts with confidence in their quality and strength. These routes have had their bolts removed and will not be re-equipped – we hope climbers will respect this decision.
Whilst this work has undoubtedly made the crag safer, it has not and cannot make it completely 'safe'. This is still a quarried venue with blast damaged rock, subject to ongoing weathering and undoubtedly loose rock will develop again over time, not to mention all the normal hazards associated with climbing outdoors. It should also be noted that the areas of the quarry not owned by the BMC have not been re-equipped and there will still be old bolts which could be widely varying in age and quality. Whether re-equipped or not, assessing the quality of the bolts and rock they are placed in before and as you climb is still an essential part of the climbing experience at Horseshoe, as it is at any other crag.
Reason: Nesting Birds
House martins sometimes nest on various routes on Main Wall - please avoid any routes with nests on whilst the birds are in residence.
Nick Taylor 18/Nov/1995.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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nickcanute | 2 Feb |
Show βeta
βeta: Retobolted by persons unknown, with an amateur lower off and crux bolt right of centre to facilitate avoiding crux by moving onto Golden Tights (VS). Possibly same person responsible for pointlessly inserting sixteen bolts across the buttress at ground level, I suspect to manufacture area for commercial group use | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Retobolted by persons unknown, with an amateur lower off and crux bolt right of centre to facilitate avoiding crux by moving onto Golden Tights (VS). Possibly same person responsible for pointlessly inserting sixteen bolts across the buttress at ground level, I suspect to manufacture area for commercial group use |
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Alan James - Rockfax | 29 Aug, 2023 |
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βeta: Single f6A+ boulder problem, if you don\'t use the right arete. Makes route worth 6c overall. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Single f6A+ boulder problem, if you don't use the right arete. Makes route worth 6c overall. |
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Christheclimber | 14 Jun, 2022 |
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βeta: Much, much harder than 6b if climbed direct without use of right arête and crack. Although mainly very straightforward one move felt harder than any move on the two 6c routes I did today...... | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Much, much harder than 6b if climbed direct without use of right arête and crack. Although mainly very straightforward one move felt harder than any move on the two 6c routes I did today...... |
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CPH | 23 May, 2022 |
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βeta: Belay has been improved (not by me!). Not reach dependent if you find the higher crimp for the right hand. Hardish 6b. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Belay has been improved (not by me!). Not reach dependent if you find the higher crimp for the right hand. Hardish 6b. |
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David Simmonite | 9 Apr, 2021 |
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βeta: This has surprisingly been retro-bolted very recently by someone and not by Nick. It climbs at about F6b/6b+ dependent on height, the belay is pretty poor IMO. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: This has surprisingly been retro-bolted very recently by someone and not by Nick. It climbs at about F6b/6b+ dependent on height, the belay is pretty poor IMO. |
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Grade: 6b ***
(Harpur Hill Quarry)