16m. High in the grade. Start 3m right of Back Off, at the lowest point of the slab. Climb easily up the mini arete, crossing the diagonal crack of Bishop's Move, to the horizontal break. Follow the left trending crack in the slab above, and make a tricky finish over the slight overlap to the tree (as for Back Off). Adequately protected but the higher placements are fiddly - micros may be useful.

B Mullan, C Lindley 31/Oct/2010

Ticklists

Fairy Cave Quarry Top 20, Fairy Cave Quarry - 1-3 Star Classic & Hard Rock

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 21 Sep Lead
Eeep 4 Aug 2nd
with d_b
with d_b
Hidden 4 Aug Lead O/S
OwenLister 27 Jul 2nd O/S
Steve Webster 27 Jul Lead rpt
davehope 27 Jul 2nd O/S
Toni Climber 25 May 2nd
eddbeale 25 May Lead O/S
Hidden 12 May 2nd rpt
Hidden 12 May Lead
Hidden 12 May 2nd rpt
NatCheeseman 6 May 2nd O/S
with Richard Ashe
with Richard Ashe
Echna 4 May Lead O/S
with TNrOne
with TNrOne
MarkH55 14 Apr 2nd
kissmate89 14 Apr Lead
with MarkH55
with MarkH55
Jim blackford 13 Apr Lead β
Olliec 20 Mar Lead O/S
bpmclimb 4 Sep, 2018 Lead rpt Today's verdict: HVS 5a
Today's verdict: HVS 5a
Hidden 2 Aug, 2018 Lead O/S
Cheese Monkey 1 Aug, 2018 Lead rpt
with GB
with GB
Hidden 24 Jul, 2018 2nd
petegunn 24 Jul, 2018 Lead
Climbthatpitch 22 Jul, 2018 Lead
with RWB1986
with RWB1986
RWB1986 22 Jul, 2018 2nd rpt
Larey 13 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
Hidden 13 Jul, 2018 2nd
JP Williams 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Kate2017 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
JoeGross 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
Gibbo 5 Jun, 2018 Lead
with Ed Wright
with Ed Wright
lakeyross 7 May, 2018 Lead No route, similar to the route on left but more foot holds and gear
with Mike aston
No route, similar to the route on left but more foot holds and gear
with Mike aston
curly19sue 6 May, 2018 TR O/S
with Steve Sutton
with Steve Sutton
ssutton 6 May, 2018 Lead
Ruth O'Brien 6 May, 2018 TR O/S
Wallman 5 May, 2018 2nd β
acornegg 4 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Wallman
with Wallman
RM199 21 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
loonylovegood93 21 Apr, 2018 TR O/S
JGriffiths 22 Oct, 2017 Lead G/U Slipped near the end near poor gear and grabbed the cable. Went back armed with more small gear
Slipped near the end near poor gear and grabbed the cable. Went back armed with more small gear
PaulJepson 22 Oct, 2017 TR O/S Gave a go on TR with intent to lead before rain hit and made it sketch. Top is quite bold above not-great gear and cable strop is so close but so far away. Take 10 gold offsets.
Gave a go on TR with intent to lead before rain hit and made it sketch. Top is quite bold above not-great gear and cable strop is so close but so far away. Take 10 gold offsets.
thompsonjr21 22 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S
Russtygibbons 17 Sep, 2017 2nd
richardashe 17 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Really surprisingly nice climb at the top
Really surprisingly nice climb at the top
Rob Davies 12 Sep, 2017 Lead dnf Started raining just below overlap, so I made a quick retreat.
with Phil A
Started raining just below overlap, so I made a quick retreat.
with Phil A
drgrange 6 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ed
with Ed
Hidden 2 Sep, 2017 2nd
JonesE 2 Sep, 2017 Lead O/S Nice little technical slab climb.
Nice little technical slab climb.
Hannah Gorvin 28 Aug, 2017 2nd
with Sam116
with Sam116
Sam116 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
Sam116 28 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
toktam 19 Aug, 2017 Lead
with Alexandra
with Alexandra
acer2012 5 Aug, 2017 Lead O/S
with Salem, Ed Ritchie
with Salem, Ed Ritchie
TimCul 20 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with ian d f
with ian d f
ian d f 20 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
RWB1986 16 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
67hours 14 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S
with Glen AMC
with Glen AMC
Puckle 29 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S A great and all too short-lived excursion, had a wobble on the top moves which was odd having done them 5 minutes earlier on the E2 next door...
A great and all too short-lived excursion, had a wobble on the top moves which was odd having done them 5 minutes earlier on the E2 next door...
mjeffery 29 Jun, 2017 Lead O/S
with Puckle
with Puckle
littlematt 28 May, 2017 Lead
Graham Westbrook 25 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with cheeky
with cheeky
cheeky 25 May, 2017 2nd
Stanners 22 May, 2017 Lead rpt funny reading back my comment from 6 years ago! (6!!!!) good route
with RJLeish
funny reading back my comment from 6 years ago! (6!!!!) good route
with RJLeish
petecallaghan 13 May, 2017 2nd O/S
EllieWoods 13 May, 2017 Lead O/S
beardy mike 4 May, 2017 Lead O/S
with Ian Savage
with Ian Savage
Mark_shack 23 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
JoeCoxson 13 Apr, 2017 2nd O/S
Hidden 13 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
AndyRogers 27 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
with ianlaw
with ianlaw
Hidden 27 Mar, 2017 Lead rpt
Hidden 25 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
RyanH 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S
with ChloeH
with ChloeH
markfromstoke ??, 2017 -
Hidden 21 Oct, 2016 2nd rpt
Hidden 21 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 20 Oct, 2016 2nd
Mayaculpa 13 Oct, 2016 TR
rickstaylor 13 Oct, 2016 Lead
scott titt 5 Oct, 2016 Lead
Hidden 26 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Steve Webster 23 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 16 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S
Bob Peters 18 Jun, 2016 Lead
Hidden 18 Jun, 2016 2nd
Fatclimber 18 Jun, 2016 Lead O/S
George.Rowland 18 Jun, 2016 2nd
with Joe, Bob Peters
with Joe, Bob Peters
Jimkato ?Jun, 2016 Lead
with Matt Walker
with Matt Walker
Jimkato ?Jun, 2016 -
Hidden 24 May, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 24 May, 2016 2nd rpt
arandall 16 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 14 May, 2016 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
with Mike Rotraxion
Mayaculpa 8 May, 2016 TR
with rickstaylor, Mike Rotraxion
with rickstaylor, Mike Rotraxion
cdpuk 8 May, 2016 Lead Wet. Didn't fancy top moves in a wet muddy state so went around the left instead. Even when dry, HVS?
Wet. Didn't fancy top moves in a wet muddy state so went around the left instead. Even when dry, HVS?
RobScarisbrick 8 May, 2016 2nd
with cdpuk
with cdpuk
accordion_to_who 30 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Quite bold for VS. Rewardingly sustained for such a short route. Committed moves on questionable gear but feels fairly safe because of the angle. Good dry-weather climbing on nice rock but make sure it's dry because there's not much for the feet and so smearing is non-negotiable.
Quite bold for VS. Rewardingly sustained for such a short route. Committed moves on questionable gear but feels fairly safe because of the angle. Good dry-weather climbing on nice rock but make sure it's dry because there's not much for the feet and so smearing is non-negotiable.
Hidden 24 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S
crater 17 Apr, 2016 2nd rpt
with steve
with steve
Steve Woollard 17 Apr, 2016 Lead
with crater
with crater
Hidden 2 Apr, 2016 2nd O/S
Matt Smith 2 Apr, 2016 Lead O/S Challenging. Mostly because of the e2 section at the end.
Challenging. Mostly because of the e2 section at the end.
stvredmond 31 Mar, 2016 Lead
BALD EAGLE 19 Mar, 2016 2nd
with Dan Guy
with Dan Guy
gobbledigook 19 Mar, 2016 Lead rpt
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
Wendy Watthews 3 Oct, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tom FP
with Tom FP
Robin Woodward 8 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Fairly straightforward to the overlap and then just committing to go for the top (on not ideal, but OK gear). it's unclear if the line is direct (not much there), left (to the E2) or right (to the footledge/pocket foot and crack) , I sort of bridged/splayed the right and middle left.
Fairly straightforward to the overlap and then just committing to go for the top (on not ideal, but OK gear). it's unclear if the line is direct (not much there), left (to the E2) or right (to the footledge/pocket foot and crack) , I sort of bridged/splayed the right and middle left.
Hidden 8 Aug, 2015 2nd
just one more 23 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with ben enright, katie b
with ben enright, katie b
dansimkin 4 Jul, 2015 Lead dog
gobbledigook 1 Jul, 2015 2nd O/S
Poco Loco 30 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Dan Guy, BALD EAGLE
with Dan Guy, BALD EAGLE
BALD EAGLE 30 Jun, 2015 2nd
with Dan Guy, James Pomeroy
with Dan Guy, James Pomeroy
BBEENN 29 Jun, 2015 Lead
Steve Woollard 23 Jun, 2015 Lead
with crater
with crater
crater 22 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
with steve
with steve
Bob M 18 Jun, 2015 Lead Didn't think that this was very well protected at the top. Moved right over the overlap and back left to the lower-off.
Didn't think that this was very well protected at the top. Moved right over the overlap and back left to the lower-off.
Trace 14 Jun, 2015 2nd
Monkey_Alan 14 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S Eats offsets like anything!
with Trace
Eats offsets like anything!
with Trace
carl_123 4 Jun, 2015 Lead rpt
catty_9 3 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S
with Sam Joseph
with Sam Joseph
declankel 3 Jun, 2015 2nd
Legs 28 May, 2015 Lead O/S Nice little lead as a warm up. Short and sweet.
with Titch
Nice little lead as a warm up. Short and sweet.
with Titch
Hidden 28 May, 2015 2nd
davidclare 16 May, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tris Vye
with Tris Vye
Hidden 11 May, 2015 2nd rpt
Hidden 11 May, 2015 Lead rpt
sideshow84 4 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 May, 2015 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 1 May, 2015 TR
with Mike Rotraxion
with Mike Rotraxion
Rob Morgan 5 Oct, 2014 2nd
Steve Bartle 5 Oct, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Oct, 2014 Lead rpt
Hidden 4 Oct, 2014 2nd rpt
steve_gibbs 27 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with John Harris, zcsharp
with John Harris, zcsharp
Hidden 17 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 4 Sep, 2014 2nd rpt
Hidden 12 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Aug, 2014 2nd O/S
will_benfold 3 Aug, 2014 2nd rpt
Pintsize 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S
georgeevans88 3 Aug, 2014 Lead O/S Didn't feel that bold with micros. Quite sustained for the grade. Good slab practice.
with Caitlin
Didn't feel that bold with micros. Quite sustained for the grade. Good slab practice.
with Caitlin
Hidden 27 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S
spenser 27 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
with Andrew Rembrandt
with Andrew Rembrandt
Mihkel 16 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
Chris Sieradzki 6 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S This is definitely not VS. I have done E1s with better gear which on this route is so fiddly and shallow. Moves are easy but my head was telling me I can't fall on this.
with Hooo
This is definitely not VS. I have done E1s with better gear which on this route is so fiddly and shallow. Moves are easy but my head was telling me I can't fall on this.
with Hooo
Hooo 6 Jul, 2014 2nd
Hidden 3 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
thomb 3 Jul, 2014 -
Hidden 29 Jun, 2014 2nd
cameron_hall 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
will_benfold 29 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
with TimCul
with TimCul
trwolfe13 29 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S
Snorfalorpagus 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Enjoyable. Bold.
with Aileen Robertson
Enjoyable. Bold.
with Aileen Robertson
richardsavill 13 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with steve tarrant
with steve tarrant
Hidden 12 Jun, 2014 Lead rpt
brian watson 5 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
upontop 5 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Chris
with Chris
felixizzy 1 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S
with Jack
with Jack
Hidden 26 May, 2014 2nd
Hidden 26 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 26 May, 2014 TR rpt
Hidden 19 May, 2014 Lead
Vincej 19 May, 2014 2nd
with Nevil
with Nevil
Alessandro Tentori 17 May, 2014 2nd O/S
with Kirsten Donovan
with Kirsten Donovan
kirsten 17 May, 2014 Lead
Hidden 5 May, 2014 Lead O/S
Easty14 16 Apr, 2014 Lead
Hidden 11 Oct, 2013 TR O/S
Hidden 5 Oct, 2013 2nd O/S
Easty14 5 Oct, 2013 2nd
Pete Randall 5 Oct, 2013 Lead O/S
with thesfg, Pete Neden
with thesfg, Pete Neden
Matt Amos 20 Sep, 2013 Lead O/S
Deary65 31 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S Learning to trust my feet on slabs!
Learning to trust my feet on slabs!
Felix Ottey 25 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
stoneback 9 Aug, 2013 2nd O/S
wurzelinzummerset 9 Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
MoWalker3 7 Aug, 2013 -
with Cormac
with Cormac
riddle 4 Aug, 2013 Solo O/S
petegunn 21 Jul, 2013 2nd
Hidden 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
Steve Webster 21 Jul, 2013 Lead
Adrian Daniels 21 Jul, 2013 Lead
Steve Woollard 16 Jul, 2013 Lead
The Ivanator 5 Jul, 2013 2nd rpt
with davenev
with davenev
davenev 5 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
beckett45 28 Jun, 2013 Lead
fishinwater 18 Jun, 2013 Lead
with Rob H
with Rob H
BruceW 8 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with bectodd
with bectodd
Hidden 2 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Liam_T 1 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S Rushed it; placing crap, run-out runners, and made a quick dash for the tree at the top!
Rushed it; placing crap, run-out runners, and made a quick dash for the tree at the top!
Marti999 31 May, 2013 2nd O/S
with Ben Hallett, debbie roberts
with Ben Hallett, debbie roberts
TimPerkin 26 May, 2013 Lead
with Tom Perkin
with Tom Perkin
johnl 25 May, 2013 Lead O/S So it has the same crux as Back Off? That makes it 5b doesn't it? Go over the overlap 1 metre to the right to make it 4c. Cracking route though.
with Adam Perrett
So it has the same crux as Back Off? That makes it 5b doesn't it? Go over the overlap 1 metre to the right to make it 4c. Cracking route though.
with Adam Perrett
carl_123 22 May, 2013 Lead O/S
Mayaculpa 17 May, 2013 2nd
Cheese Monkey 17 May, 2013 Lead O/S Nice
Nice
gjh 6 May, 2013 Lead O/S
kate tarrant ?May, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 23 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S
bpmclimb 21 Apr, 2013 Lead rpt Still not sure of the grade of this!
with kirsten
Still not sure of the grade of this!
with kirsten
kirsten 21 Apr, 2013 Lead
Ian JL 6 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
Hidden 1 Sep, 2012 Lead O/S
Mark Davies PK 19 Aug, 2012 2nd rpt
Huntlyfiddler 19 Aug, 2012 2nd
bpmclimb 19 Aug, 2012 Lead rpt
cpoad 12 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S Bold at top trying to get microwires in
with John S
Bold at top trying to get microwires in
with John S
Big Lee 21 Jul, 2012 Lead O/S Felt top end VS, top end 4c but not HVS as there were some really good nut placements right where I needed them at half height. Gave up trying to place the micro wire below the overlap though as the placement didn't look like it would hold a 90kg fall. The moves over the overlap weren't too difficult once committed. Possibly the best route of the day.
Felt top end VS, top end 4c but not HVS as there were some really good nut placements right where I needed them at half height. Gave up trying to place the micro wire below the overlap though as the placement didn't look like it would hold a 90kg fall. The moves over the overlap weren't too difficult once committed. Possibly the best route of the day.
The Ivanator 28 May, 2012 Lead rpt
with jezb1
with jezb1
jezb1 28 May, 2012 2nd On reflection, I think it's vs 4c but you could persuade me it's hvs 4c
On reflection, I think it's vs 4c but you could persuade me it's hvs 4c
The Ivanator 2 May, 2012 Lead O/S Top of both tech and adjectival grades, led on Stu's in situ gear. Nice route, well worth a *
Top of both tech and adjectival grades, led on Stu's in situ gear. Nice route, well worth a *
bpmclimb 2 May, 2012 TR rpt
with Shunt
with Shunt
bpmclimb 2 May, 2012 Lead rpt Gear in situ.
Gear in situ.
bpmclimb 13 Aug, 2011 2nd rpt VS/HVS 4c/5a. Right on the cusp. Still inclined to go with top end VS, after comparison with Caveman and Jiggery Pokery over on the Glacis.
with hms
VS/HVS 4c/5a. Right on the cusp. Still inclined to go with top end VS, after comparison with Caveman and Jiggery Pokery over on the Glacis.
with hms
Hidden 13 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
blum 3 Jul, 2011 2nd β Tom lead I seconded
with Tom Starks
Tom lead I seconded
with Tom Starks
blum 3 Jul, 2011 2nd β Tom lead I seconded. Nice route
with Tom Starks
Tom lead I seconded. Nice route
with Tom Starks
Mark Davies PK 19 Jun, 2011 Lead rpt Led this time to remove dagger. Top end VS 4c as some of the gear is fiddly and the move over the overlap is borderline 4c/5a and protected by a microwire.
Led this time to remove dagger. Top end VS 4c as some of the gear is fiddly and the move over the overlap is borderline 4c/5a and protected by a microwire.
Hidden 19 Jun, 2011 TR O/S
Stanners 19 Jun, 2011 TR O/S Climbed to help confirm a grade in the new guide. Personally think its HVS 4C, the gear looked too shallow and small in my opinion for it to be VS.
Climbed to help confirm a grade in the new guide. Personally think its HVS 4C, the gear looked too shallow and small in my opinion for it to be VS.
Mark Davies PK 4 Jun, 2011 TR
with Mr Shunt
with Mr Shunt
Huntlyfiddler 3 Mar, 2011 2nd
bpmclimb 3 Mar, 2011 Lead rpt Possibly VS 4c.
Possibly VS 4c.
bpmclimb 31 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S FA (although very likely done before). Links start of Travel Bug to last couple of moves of Back Off, via a nice crack which takes good gear.
FA (although very likely done before). Links start of Travel Bug to last couple of moves of Back Off, via a nice crack which takes good gear.
Huntlyfiddler 31 Oct, 2010 2nd
Hidden ??, 2004 Lead
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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 44
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 32
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set