100m, 3 pitches. A good turfy mixed climb, taking the prominent groove just right of the mummy shaped tower. A typically 'testing' Lochnagar mixed number.

1. 40m Climb easy lower ground and step right into the foot of the groove. Climb this with increasing difficulty to a small triangular niche (old peg in here). Pull over the roof (crux)- then continue more easily to a recess and large block belay.
2. 35m Continue in the same line up a narrow groove and climb to the top of a small hanging snowfield. Exit via the wall on the right to gain the left-rising terrace.
3. 25m Move left into the well defined chimney (excellent climbing) and climb this to the top.

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Robin Clothier 26 Nov, 2017 AltLd
with Stuart mcfarlane
with Stuart mcfarlane
Stuart the postie 26 Nov, 2017 AltLd Wouldn't like to have fallen onto peg or bulldog at crux, serious (VI,6?)
with Robin Clothier
Wouldn't like to have fallen onto peg or bulldog at crux, serious (VI,6?)
with Robin Clothier
peter.herd 4 Jan, 2015 AltLd
with Jason C, Adrian C
with Jason C, Adrian C
Hidden ?Jan, 2015 -
innes 9 Feb, 2013 AltLd Buried under lots of snow. Struggled to find any good gear on P1: peg and bulldog both poor. Top 2 pitches take good rock gear.
with Ralph, Max
Buried under lots of snow. Struggled to find any good gear on P1: peg and bulldog both poor. Top 2 pitches take good rock gear.
with Ralph, Max
Heike 5 Feb, 2012 AltLd Great route, but would be nice if there was some more turf in the grooves...top pitch is lovely
with Jeremy
Great route, but would be nice if there was some more turf in the grooves...top pitch is lovely
with Jeremy
simon_D 7 Jan, 2012 AltLd O/S Ace turfy route on a wild day - did 2nd pitch of Spellbound up the arete as the groove was not well iced, good hooks and gear further up. A great day out, top chimney is thrutchy!
with Geoff
Ace turfy route on a wild day - did 2nd pitch of Spellbound up the arete as the groove was not well iced, good hooks and gear further up. A great day out, top chimney is thrutchy!
with Geoff
whistler 17 Dec, 2011 2nd dog First proper wintarr route. Fell off the crux. Who thought it was a good idea to climb with leashes? A crackin route!
with gforce
First proper wintarr route. Fell off the crux. Who thought it was a good idea to climb with leashes? A crackin route!
with gforce
gforce 17 Dec, 2011 Lead Winter climbing at it's grimmest. Ice particles being driven up into your face whenever you look down. Ugh. Good effort from Pete!
Winter climbing at it's grimmest. Ice particles being driven up into your face whenever you look down. Ugh. Good effort from Pete!
Lamb 19 Mar, 2011 2nd Pulling over an overhang with a packed ruckie for three ain't easy hence the wee slip! Did it in two pitches so wasn't didn't get a lead! Chimney pitch up top is excellent.
Pulling over an overhang with a packed ruckie for three ain't easy hence the wee slip! Did it in two pitches so wasn't didn't get a lead! Chimney pitch up top is excellent.
Stephen18 19 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Mar, 2011 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox ?Feb, 2005 AltLd dnf Did not finish as Russ took a huge fall off the crux.
Did not finish as Russ took a huge fall off the crux.
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Voting
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 4
High 7
Mid 7
Low 7
High 6
Mid 6
Low 6
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 4
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set