100m, 3 pitches. A good turfy mixed climb, taking the prominent groove just right of the mummy shaped tower. A typically 'testing' Lochnagar mixed number.

1. 40m Climb easy lower ground and step right into the foot of the groove. Climb this with increasing difficulty to a small triangular niche (old peg in here). Pull over the roof (crux)- then continue more easily to a recess and large block belay.
2. 35m Continue in the same line up a narrow groove and climb to the top of a small hanging snowfield. Exit via the wall on the right to gain the left-rising terrace.
3. 25m Move left into the well defined chimney (excellent climbing) and climb this to the top.

peter.herd 04/Jan/15 AltLd
with Jason C, Adrian C
innes 09/Feb/13 AltLd

Buried under lots of snow. Struggled to find any good gear on P1: peg and bulldog both poor. Top 2 pitches take good rock gear.

with Ralph, Max
Heike 05/Feb/12 AltLd

Great route, but would be nice if there was some more turf in the grooves...top pitch is lovely

with Jeremy
simon_D 07/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

Ace turfy route on a wild day - did 2nd pitch of Spellbound up the arete as the groove was not well iced, good hooks and gear further up. A great day out, top chimney is thrutchy!

with Geoff
whistler 17/Dec/11 2nd dog

First proper wintarr route. Fell off the crux. Who thought it was a good idea to climb with leashes? A crackin route!

with Graham
gforce 17/Dec/11 Lead

Winter climbing at it's grimmest. Ice particles being driven up into your face whenever you look down. Ugh. Good effort from Pete!

Lamb 19/Mar/11 2nd RP

Pulling over an overhang with a packed ruckie aint easy! Did it in two pitches so wasny given a lead! Chimney pitch up top is excellent.

Stephen18 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Smelly Fox ?/Feb/05 AltLd dnf

Did not finish as Russ took a huge fall off the crux.

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