UKC

540m, 13 pitches.

Rockfax Description
This classic route was first climbed in 1969 when Messner, devoid of climbing partners on that particular day, decided to go ahead anyway and soloed the route. It is most often climbed as the continuation to the Vinatzer-Castiglioni route on the lower half of the face and, because of the nature of the rock, is less prone to ice and snow at either end of the season. There is plenty of fixed gear but is nonetheless a committing climb which should not be underestimated.
Begin from the large halfway ledge below a roof, about 50m right of the exit from the Vinatzer route pitch 16.
1) V+, 45m. Climb the overhang on its left side, leaving a niche on the right. Move left over much easier ground to a good stance.
2) III, 40m. Move a few metres right then continue easily left, passing through a shallow corner to a comfortable belay.
3) IV+, 50m. Climb a slab, moving right towards a large niche, then climb a gully to the left of this to a stance below a narrower gully.
4) IV+, 50m. Climb the short gully to a roof on the left, then move diagonally right to a small niche. Traverse back left before climbing a few metres direct to reach a stance.
5) VI-, 35m. Move left across a slab then climb this direct with technical climbing on water grooves and pockets.
6) IV, 25m. Follow a vague gully right, passing over a niche, to reach another slab.
7) IV+, 40m. Climb the slab of smooth grey rock direct.
8) IV+, 25m. Follow the successive slab slightly left.
9) IV, 40m. Climb right from the belay, climbing a slab to the right of a narrow gully.
10) VI+, 35m. Continue direct on pockets, then trend right following a steep but well-pegged crack up a steep yellow wall.
11) V, 45m. Climb a gully then continue in the crack above.
12) IV+, 100m. Follow the crack left then direct, passing an overhang on its left then follow the ridge left over easier ground to the summit.
Descent - From the summit of Punta Rocca, descend a short rocky section on the northeast side to reach the snowy plateau of the glacier. Follow the snow ridge east to reach the Punta Rocca cable car station. Either take the cable car back to Malga Ciapela, or alternatively descend the ski piste northeast (be aware of possible crevasses on the glacier, particularly later in the season), keeping right to reach a service track. Follow this back to Passo Fedaia. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
This is the usual finish to the Vinatzer route, fantastic.

Ticklists: Classic Dolomite Climbs - Kohler/Memmel, Euro Alpine Rock.


ClimberDateStyle
haydng 13/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Great finish to the Vinatzer. Lovely pocketed moves and the finale crack is fairly reasonable. Long day though and a miserable bivvy in a cave by the cable car station with 9 others!

with Tania
The Grist 17/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Bit of an epic on this. We came up from the Vinatzer in one day. We did 6 pitches of this....then run out of day light. We tried to get onto a route out right to escape but it was nails so we were benighted. The next day we struggled with route finding so followed some other team up a route out left which was very hard but did have lots of fixed gear. So we basically did 6 pitches of the messner; slept (badly in a hanging cold bivouac) then finished an unknown route. Epic muppetry.

Hidden 12/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
tatz45 12/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Block led some sections. I led Messner Slab which is incredible pocket pulling in an insane position. Oli led crux VI+ pitch. Felt about top end E2 depending on your faith in pegs...

Hidden 15/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
katy_abra 25/Jul/13 AltLd
Alasdair Fulton 18/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

So, Vinatzer completed. Pulled over the starting overhang and commenced on a number of pitches of slab wandering. I'd say about 80% of the time we weren't sure if we were on route, or where the route should be, or where we were. Upwards we go! Crux 1 was uniquely positioned. Intimidating, technical, balancey but not strenuous wall climbing on pockets, never quite sure if on route or not, never quite sure where the next piece of gear or belay would be, 500m of air below. Mind. Blowing. Neil describes the rest >>

Neil Adams 18/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

Excellent route, really varied. Went a little off route before the top crux and had to do a diagonal abseil to get back to the line. The last VI+ pitch (pitch twenty-something overall) was quite exciting when knackered!

with Ally F
alpinist63 29/Jul/09 -
Hidden 28/Jul/07 Lead O/S
dan gibson ?/Jul/05 AltLd O/S
with eddie church
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Voting
High VII-
Mid VII-
Low VII-
High VI+
Mid VI+
Low VI+
High VI
Mid VI
Low VI
Votes cast 2
Votes cast 2
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set