20m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A fine climb though most only do the first pitch. .
1) 4c, 10m. The centre of the attractive slab gives good climbing with escalating interest with final tricky moves (good runners in the horizontal break) to reach its crest.
2) 4c, 10m. Move right to the jamming crack in the upper wall and follow this until it widens awkwardly and possible to swing left and mantel into the base of the wide and easy finishing cleft.
A Direct Finish above the fist crack is a pumpy HVS 5a. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Howard mid 1950s 1955

Ticklists: Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour.

chris.greaves 06/Oct/17 TR

first pitch only

with henni
Henrike Greuel 06/Oct/17 TR

first pith only

Graeme Hammond 18/Sep/17 AltLd rpt

led p2

mrphilipoldham 18/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
stevo smith 16/Sep/17 Lead
with Rob hall patch
mmmhumous 24/Aug/17 Lead dnf

too windy to do the top moves onsight fso finished on top rope.

with Tom
Duncan Zerafa 23/Aug/17 Lead

Pt 1 and Pt 2 onsight.

with KMC, Isabel Prause
Prof. Outdoors 09/Aug/17 TR
with Wendy
Lee0901 ?/Aug/17 -
Pete_Mosely 01/Jul/17 2nd β

1st pitch only. Couldn't do 2nd pitch.

with Tom
yossarian714 01/Jul/17 Lead O/S
thetradlad 10/May/17 AltLd O/S

P2 for me

Stroppy 22/Apr/17 Solo rpt
Rob Moorcroft 24/Sep/16 Lead
with Chris Underwood
CarlaJG 11/Sep/16 AltLd

I led the first pitch ... thought I was going to get blown off the top of the slab eekkk

timrooker 11/Sep/16 AltLd dnf

Carla lead P1, I attempted to lead P2 but after 2 days of heavy drinking was not feeling on form. Feels nails for the grade - can see why 'many teams only do the first pitch'!

with Carla
Hidden 01/Sep/16 2nd rpt
Rozzlarr1992 29/May/16 2nd
with Dad
stev1e.wilso 29/May/16 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only

with Rosie
Hidden 22/May/16 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/May/16 2nd β
Clay C 18/May/16 Lead O/S

Both pitches

with KMC
Hidden 10/Apr/16 2nd
SimonOliver 10/Apr/16 Lead
R Brown 13/Dec/15 Lead O/S

1st pitch only

Hidden 13/Dec/15 2nd O/S
Mr Fuller 13/Dec/15 2nd O/S

First pitch only.

Hidden 01/Nov/15 2nd dog
Antony Mariani 20/Sep/15 Lead O/S

1st pitch only

with Jo P
Hidden 20/Sep/15 2nd O/S
alexcollins123 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Anna Robson
Duncan Zerafa 26/Aug/15 2nd O/S

Pt 1 only.

stratandrew 26/Aug/15 Lead rpt

P1 only and linked with P2 of Rib and face

with Dave Wylie
Hidden 02/Jul/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Jun/15 Lead
caradoc 14/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Disjointed and contrasting pitches but interesting moves.

with nick yapp
sting 10/May/15 Lead O/S

Good climbing throughout. Followed original route a good jam required.

with kwaidy
kwaidy 10/May/15 2nd

Used holds to the right of the crack, on p2 to gain hight on the jamming crack . yep cheatin? :-]

Stroppy 09/May/15 Solo O/S


RKirke 09/May/15 Solo O/S
JdotP 10/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Finished up second pitch of Cleft & Chimney instead.

with Ginger Ninja Hanman
angus ?/Apr/15 Solo
buxtoncoffeelover 06/Mar/15 Lead

Only first pitch. Entertainingly spicy above last gear, especially in strong winds with cold fingers. Didn't fancy a 'ferocious' jamming crack finish.

with Vicar
Hidden 06/Mar/15 2nd
Hidden 14/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Sep/14 Lead
Hidden 17/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Jam_sandwich 17/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Finished direct.

stevo smith 10/Jun/14 Lead

Had climbed the first pitch before on 21.10.06. With dad n Paul T. This time O/S Lead 2nd pitch with Pam 2nd. More strenuous in the jamming crack than the delicate upper section on pitch 1.

with Pam
Hidden 18/May/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 01/May/14 Lead
jimbonfire 22/Feb/14 -
simonscubadiver ??/2014 2nd
with Jonny Ramsey
craghunter ??/2014 Lead
with si
Hidden ??/2014 -
tobyk 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Nov/13 2nd
Jon Wickham 23/Nov/13 2nd
with joe fennell
Just Another Dave 19/Oct/13 Lead O/S

That crack in the second half is NAILS! It's bang on at VS4c though, too short to get any more, but if it was 10m long, it'd get E3 5c!

with Lance Turtle
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead rpt
Hidden 18/Aug/13 AltLd
mr_drains 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S

Couldnt complete the fist crack :( left some skin there.

with Brian Mc, The Defecator
GARY HEAP 22/Jul/13 TR
with Lee Faulkner
Helen Boothman 17/Jul/13 2nd O/S
leeds_belle 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
MJLangley 16/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Marissa
JoeMortimer 24/Jun/13 AltLd
Droyd 24/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
tanssop 24/Jun/13 2nd
with Andy
Andrew Lodge 10/Jun/13 Lead O/S

I'm sure I went too far right on pitch 2

with Bob, Tony
nokishatov 06/May/13 Solo O/S

1st pitch only

morpcat 04/May/13 TR

On my own for practice

georgenvk 02/May/13 Lead O/S
kkris 02/May/13 Lead O/S
with Graham
JimboWizbo 02/Mar/13 Lead

P1 very good, climbed the right hand crack on P2 and traversed to the left, definitely an easier route than the leaning left hand crack, but the traverse felt about right for VS

with Beth
Hidden 02/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Frank the Husky ??/2013 -
towdman 09/Nov/12 AltLd O/S
monkeyboy3000 27/Oct/12 Lead O/S
greengrasss 08/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
Joe.Elliott1 08/Oct/12 AltLd
with Sean
chrisgaynon69 15/Sep/12 Lead β
with Gary Scott, karl bamford
Smeghead 15/Sep/12 Lead
with karlb
karlb 15/Sep/12 2nd
Steve J P 26/Aug/12 AltLd

SP - 1st pitch BW - 2nd pitch. Needed a couple of rests on rope on 2nd pitch.

with BW
Bernie Wylde 26/Aug/12 AltLd
with sp
Hidden 08/Jul/12 AltLd
Cruty Rammers 20/Jun/12 AltLd dog

2nded first pitch. Then lead the second but went off route - missed the crack and climbed straight up the face to the left. When we realised, we went back and did the top pitch again. Got pumped placing gear in the crack and had to downclimb after a couple of attempts, but left the gear. My partner then lead using my gear and got it first time. Then I 2nded it without too much trouble after a rest. That crack is a real beast! Getting a foot in seemed to be the key. A nice climb.

mattius 19/Jun/12 AltLd
with alfadax
wil_perry 10/Jun/12 2nd
with BARNY
Hidden 06/Jun/12 Lead
Hidden 06/Jun/12 2nd O/S
PD 02/Jun/12 2nd rpt

Seconded 'The Great Gatsby' just to the right of the Great Slab - awesome route.

Hidden 06/May/12 Lead O/S
Jules Lane ?/May/12 Lead O/S
with Scafell Lyndsey
Hidden 02/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Bowzle 01/Apr/12 Lead
Hidden 22/Oct/11 AltLd
Hidden 18/Sep/11 Lead
Ugly Kid Jo 18/Sep/11 2nd
with Skinny
Barry D 31/Aug/11 2nd

p2 very hard, (Not vs).

with Jon P
ernie27uk 31/Aug/11 2nd O/S

Only the first pitch. Very delicate moves. One for returning to and leading (if I can find the motivation to slog up the hill again)

JEP 31/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jul/11 AltLd
stratandrew 27/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
amy 25/May/11 AltLd
with Jen
Rob Jarratt 24/May/11 2nd
with Julie Hardie, Andy Crawley
Hidden 24/May/11 Lead O/S
ste_d 19/May/11 Solo rpt
paulpaint ?/May/11 TR O/S
WillCass 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Nice climbing

with Rick
Hidden 30/Jan/11 TR O/S
t8t9t8 ??/2011 2nd
with C Mills
t8t9t8 ??/2011 2nd
dannygiblin ??/2011 -
simonscubadiver 23/Nov/10 Lead O/S

1st pitch only

ste_d 10/Nov/10 Solo rpt
tobydunford 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 30/Sep/10 Lead rpt
johnwilson123 ?/Sep/10 -
with paul
Pilch 30/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

lead first pitch, Andy climbed steep jamming crack to the right on 2nd pitch

with Andy
Dan Lane 21/Jul/10 Lead O/S

good route, even if i did go off route on the top pitch, it still felt about VS.

reubensampson 14/Jul/10 2nd

Antony Led

with Dave Wilde, Antony Grayson
Hidden 23/Jun/10 2nd
eonuk 23/Jun/10 Lead rpt
with Wayne
cezza 04/Jun/10 TR
Sianny 01/May/10 2nd O/S
Hidden 01/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/10 Lead rpt
Graeme Hammond 11/Apr/10 AltLd O/S

(led the 1st pitch) thought the bottom pitch looked poor on arrival but the climbing was excellent. The upper pitch felt in the upper limit of the grade.

with Rob
Ketu 11/Apr/10 AltLd rpt
Hidden 07/Mar/10 Lead O/S
cymjt ??/2010 -
mr rob 23/Oct/09 Lead O/S
with Jordan, ferg
BenedictIEP 11/Oct/09 TR O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/09 Lead O/S
willworkforfoodjnr 11/Oct/09 AltLd O/S
with grubes
Hardonicus 11/Oct/09 2nd rpt
matthewstevendaniel 11/Oct/09 2nd β
with Alex Tompson
Abi 11/Oct/09 2nd O/S
with Haydn, Anton, Laura
grubes 11/Oct/09 AltLd O/S

good climb lead first pitch was soaking wet when I set off though

with Ben, Chris
Hidden 04/Oct/09 Lead O/S
ste_d 04/Oct/09 Solo rpt
Roget 30/Aug/09 Lead O/S

Led top pitch too

with jim
Hidden 18/Aug/09 TR
Hidden 09/Aug/09 2nd
alecjcook 02/Aug/09 TR β

Good climb. not good to top rope this though.

with Stu Dearnly
Rob Davies 14/Jun/09 AltLd
with Phil Ashton
Hidden 13/Jun/09 Lead
embob 13/Jun/09 2nd dog

Lovely first pitch. Crack on the second pitch was savage! Fell a few times. One fall for Al.

with Alex
jelaby 11/Jun/09 2nd β

1st pitch only: CoffeePot's sister's wedding planning took precedence.

coffeepot 11/Jun/09 Lead O/S
with jelaby
doogstrue 17/May/09 Lead O/S

first pitch only

with phil & andy
antroy 14/May/09 Lead
Hidden 03/May/09 Lead
SteWatkins ?/Mar/09 Lead
adi bryant ??/2009 Solo
with Ben
mike_hough_uk 27/Sep/08 2nd

first pitch only

chri55ie 27/Sep/08 Lead

First pitch only

Hidden 10/Sep/08 -
Hidden 24/Aug/08 TR O/S
Hidden 24/Aug/08 TR O/S
ste_d 02/Aug/08 Solo rpt
thinair48 ?/Aug/08 Solo O/S

Pitch one only as crack feels very committing Look forward to this tussle with some good gear ahead of me

Calder 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
with James Brown & co.
troym 05/Jul/08 AltLd O/S
with Sean Redmond
tanssop 25/Jun/08 2nd
with Andy
Hidden 23/Jun/08 Lead
ste_d 22/Jun/08 Solo rpt
tanssop 08/Jun/08 Lead

1st pitch only

with Julie
birbeck ?/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with Chris Proffitt
Matt Bulmer 29/May/08 2nd β
with Andrew Wood
hairynortherner 09/Feb/08 2nd dog

Tried to lead the horrible second pitch and fell off the Cam held though phew. Had to just second it in then end.

with Richard
pog100 05/Jan/08 2nd

1st pitch, finished up VD to left. Cold!

Reaver2k 05/Jan/08 Lead O/S

We came up to Alderman as it had been raining the day before and previous to that so thought this would dry out nice and quite. Was quite impressed with myself with this one! Backed off the severe to the left due to lack of gear and could see some decent stuff in this one. It was quite a gale but figured that I'd just go for it. By the time I'd done the first two moves, my fingers were useless, I couldn't feel them anymore in the cold! placed a couple of pieces of protection in the first break (wind + slab + sucking at slabs = fall) moved up to the next break, found two bomber runners which I was perfectly happy about so went ahead with the tricky top move! undercut the break, bring feet up quite high, stand up and balance until right hand can reach up and right into a groove thing. Stand up, get a jam under the block and reach over the top, absolutely fantastic move! Really made my day. I've realised that I really do suck at slabs, I hate having no protection (not a problem with this one) and lean into the wall way too much, fearing my feet slipping I reach up for handholds which is only going to knock myself off. Will have to practice this weakness soon! Second pitch of Rib and Face (Face).

Hidden ??/2008 Lead O/S
laurencehicks 05/Aug/07 TR

trying out a vs

with russ
cem 29/Jul/07 Lead O/S
with Steve Capes
Kirill 29/Jul/07 Lead dnf

Coulndt do the second pitch, gave up after a good few attempts.

with Andrew Roberts
towdman 27/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
with Reuben Armitage
jonnyboy 27/Jun/07 Solo O/S
Filmac 21/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Ian W, Pearce
Hidden 19/Apr/07 Lead O/S
laurencehicks 05/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with mat
stevo smith 21/Oct/06 Lead O/S

Only 1st pitch.

with Paul Taylor, Arthur smith (Dad)
Hidden 21/Sep/06 AltLd O/S
JdotP 15/Jul/06 2nd O/S

First pitch only.

with Dave Lovelady
Carl Smethurst 03/Jul/06 AltLd O/S

Direct finish (HVS 5a)

with Gareth Mayhead
Chris Davids 29/Jun/06 Lead O/S

Only the first pitch. The second was climbed using foot slings clipped into gear, damn jamming cracks.

with Rob
George Ormerod 10/May/06 Lead O/S

First pitch only - 2nd a bit too brutal for me. Gave it a go and downclimbed to save it for another day.

with Clare D
Hidden 10/May/06 2nd
craig h 11/Sep/05 AltLd
with Phil West
Phil West 11/Sep/05 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st pitch

with Craig h
Rampikino 27/Aug/05 Lead
with Claire & Tom
Simonj 30/May/05 TR
with Andy
Hidden 15/May/05 Lead O/S
Simon Caldwell 19/Dec/04 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only (too icy for pitch 2!)

with Carmen
Rampikino 24/Jul/04 AltLd
with Liz, Ian, Claire, Glyn
John Eley ?/Mar/04 Lead O/S
jimshrimp 11/Oct/03 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/03 Lead O/S
Michael Brown 16/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden 16/Aug/03 Lead β
Owdham 25/Nov/02 TR O/S

Nice slab climb.

with Girtch
Hidden 24/Nov/02 2nd
Martin Bennett 16/Jul/98 Solo
ste_d 12/Apr/95 Solo O/S
craig h 01/Oct/90 Solo O/S
babymoac 12/Aug/89 Solo
Chris Ellis 07/Aug/89 Lead
with Rob Gale, Trevor Massiah
goi.ashmore 14/Jan/89 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 05/Oct/80 Lead
Tom V ??/1970 -
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High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 43
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 43
Votes cast 41
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set