14m.

Rockfax Description
Short but action packed. The thin leaning crack is an uphill struggle on thin-hand-jams and fat finger-locks though protection is superb; which way to face is the real conundrum. Most of the old wooden wedges that used to get in the way have now gone. © Rockfax

FA. Tony Howard (aid) 1962. FFA. Steve Bancroft 1972

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, World Graded List, 50 cracks to Squamish, Moorland Grit - The Essential Selection (Over The Moors), Ultimate E4 ticklist, Over the Moors 3 Star Magical Mystery Tour, Definitive *** Peak Grit, Proper Cracks UK

Feedback

UserDateNotes
nigel baker 10 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: superb!!The lost art of hard crack climbing----Try training on a climbing wall for this beast!!!
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: superb!!The lost art of hard crack climbing----Try training on a climbing wall for this beast!!!
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
david morse 18 Aug Lead RP On Steve's gear, took a few goes. Would be a challenging onsight
On Steve's gear, took a few goes. Would be a challenging onsight
stevebarratt 18 Aug Lead RP Pretty tough. 5.12- ? Took a few tries to get up it. Didn’t take the runners out between those attempts.
Pretty tough. 5.12- ? Took a few tries to get up it. Didn’t take the runners out between those attempts.
ashtond6 25 May Lead rpt Superb superb. E5? Best pure splitter on grit? (Although i havent done Bob hope yet) Not much of this style in the UK :) Very similar to Double Bock 5.12a/b in Indian Creek but this is a bit steeper.
Superb superb. E5? Best pure splitter on grit? (Although i havent done Bob hope yet) Not much of this style in the UK :) Very similar to Double Bock 5.12a/b in Indian Creek but this is a bit steeper.
charlescooper 23 May, 2015 Solo G/U
Hidden ??, 2014 Lead
mattnuttall 24 Jul, 2013 TR O/S should've lead it then... desperate mind you, gotta be E5 placing the gear... and it's not all over at the niche either!
with Ian Heginbotham, Alan Holden, Matthew Tink Taylor
should've lead it then... desperate mind you, gotta be E5 placing the gear... and it's not all over at the niche either!
with Ian Heginbotham, Alan Holden, Matthew Tink Taylor
efrance24234 19 Jun, 2013 Lead β Ground up seccond go. Strong on the ringlocks then not so strong on the pinch.
Ground up seccond go. Strong on the ringlocks then not so strong on the pinch.
akhughes 3 Sep, 2012 Lead β
with Pete Harris
with Pete Harris
Dan Mckinlay ?Sep, 2012 Lead β
Hidden 9 Aug, 2012 Lead RP
Simon Davis 8 Aug, 2012 Lead Definatly not onsight. Took two visits!
with Pete Davies
Definatly not onsight. Took two visits!
with Pete Davies
Boy ?May, 2009 - There was no sign of the wooden wedges mentioned in the text
with Nige Kershaw
There was no sign of the wooden wedges mentioned in the text
with Nige Kershaw
sadams 19 Apr, 2009 Lead dnf
with Eric Hildrew
with Eric Hildrew
Tom Briggs 19 Apr, 2009 Lead β
with Steve and Eric
with Steve and Eric
psychicbread 8 Jun, 2008 TR dnf
with Max
with Max
Hidden 22 Jun, 2003 Lead
Laramadness 11 Apr, 2002 2nd dog
Neil McA 10 Jun, 2000 2nd O/S While celebrating Andy P's 40th by doing the Bancroft 4 big Chew E4's in a day. Calamity, Renaissance, Bob Hope, Wastelands
with Dave Turnbull, Neil Foster, Andy Cave, Clare Reading, Greg Rimmer, Streaky, Andy Perkins
While celebrating Andy P's 40th by doing the Bancroft 4 big Chew E4's in a day. Calamity, Renaissance, Bob Hope, Wastelands
with Dave Turnbull, Neil Foster, Andy Cave, Clare Reading, Greg Rimmer, Streaky, Andy Perkins
craig h 27 May, 2000 Lead RP Had seconded it, also aided it on a wet day prior.
with Chris c
Had seconded it, also aided it on a wet day prior.
with Chris c
Hidden ??, 1998 Lead
craig h ?Sep, 1993 2nd rpt
with Luke Steer
with Luke Steer
craig h 27 Aug, 1991 Lead dog Slept in the quarry and after a few beers; thought it would be interesting to climb this on aid. We finished it in the morning.
with Duncan Martin and Jim w
Slept in the quarry and after a few beers; thought it would be interesting to climb this on aid. We finished it in the morning.
with Duncan Martin and Jim w
Hidden ?Jul, 1991 Lead dog
craig h ?Jul, 1991 2nd
with Dnmn
with Dnmn
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Voting
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 13
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set