Restricted Access
Gate for Canto Cochino opens at 9 a.m. Once the gate is open follow the road through the forest to its end where there is a large car park and Bar. Gate closes at 10pm - Dont be late!!Also you should check seasonal bird bans, ask the rangers at the main entrance for Canto Ccochino (if they are there)
There is no restriction at the El Tranco car park, and no barrier - you can access all the park from here but its a longer walk!
Rockfax Description
A stunning route with some long run-out and exposed sections. Start right of the black streak right of the perched tower.
1) 5c, 45m. Head up and right on an easy rampline. Then start up the slab just right of the green streak. Delicate climbing leads past some bolts to a bold and tricky move by the fourth and last bolt. This can be climbed direct at 6b, aided at A0, or an easier but bolder 5c variation to the left.
2) 5a, 25m. Head up diagonally left and zig-zag your way up to the next belay.
3) 5b, 45m. Move out left and climb the slab up and left to the base of a crack by a black streak. Move up the crack briefly and then gain another crack above, before heading back up right to a belay to the left of hole.
3a) 6a, 38m. Head directly up the slab passing several bolts.
4) 5b, 50m. Move right below the hole to bolt and back up left past another distant bolt and onto easier ground!
4a) 6a, 45m. Move up past a bolt, this is the only protection on this route, but easy 4b ground in the form rigosities are soon reached. © Rockfax
Ticklists
100 Spanish multi-pitch classics
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Nani
Grade: 5c ***
(La Pedriza (Anterior))