60m, 2 pitches. ***PLEASE TAKE CARE WITH LOOSE ROCK - anything dislodged from here tends to funnel toward the lower path to Ferocity wall***
Pitch 1 (5) climbs the slab to the left of St Gregory. A pleasant beginners climb in its own right.
Pitch 2 (6a) Has plenty of bolts but is rather more exciting prospect with a bit of a trad feel and some loose rock. Cross the collapsing debris behind the belay and climb up onto the arete. At its top traverse left with crux moves after the bolt which has a rope extension. Finally exit at a white wall and belay on the fence behind.

Ken Palmer 2010

Ticklists: Classic Anstey's, The best 50 UK "Orange Spot" Sports Routes?.

littleluke 26/Aug Lead
Edward Kwong 26/Aug Lead O/S

Airy 2nd pitch!

LauraGoodchild 25/Aug Lead O/S

Only lead first pitch

phil456 07/Jul Lead rpt

P1 only

with Stella
stella imong 07/Jul Lead

also seconded

with Phil Ellis
Tom Seccombe 06/Jul Lead O/S

First pitch only.

Adam Reed 25/Jun Solo rpt
Hidden 24/May Lead dog
andy south devon 23/May AltLd rpt
Brian H 11/Apr AltLd rpt
with Martin Slater
GoodbyeTurtles 09/Apr Lead O/S

First pitch was a long cakewalk. Some nice exposure and tough moves on the crux of the second pitch, despite it's loose nature. Would definitely not recommend the direct top out route as it was a horrendous scramble up vertical undergrowth full of nettles and loose rock!

with Kate
phil456 03/Apr Lead rpt

P1 only

with SP
stella imong 17/Mar 2nd
with Jonathan Imong
Natalie C 17/Mar 2nd O/S

Stella. John (lead) and Richard

Hidden 17/Mar TR
Marktrin 22/Jan TR

Just did the first pitch again.

with phil456
phil456 22/Jan Lead rpt

P1 only

with SP
EllieWoods 02/Jan AltLd O/S
with Scott, Pete Callaghan
petecallaghan 02/Jan AltLd rpt

Lead P2. Remembered not to accidentally finish direct. Ran out of draws before the top out, then got to the top and realised my rucksack was full of draws

Hidden 01/Jan Lead
Adam Reed 03/Dec/16 Lead β
Crevisking 01/Oct/16 Lead rpt
phil456 28/Sep/16 Lead rpt

P1 only

with Stella
stella imong 28/Sep/16 2nd
with phil456, Phil Ellis
Sean Kelly 14/Sep/16 Lead rpt
with Lee ?, Phil Ellis
LDJ 14/Sep/16 Lead

1st pitch

Marktrin 14/Sep/16 2nd

Just did first pitch again, but did it easily.

with Sean K
Hidden 29/Aug/16 Lead
rachelvlc 28/Aug/16 2nd
Matti Puckridge 28/Aug/16 Lead O/S
with Rachel
EcoClimber 19/Aug/16 AltLd dnf

Great afternoon. Amalie's 1st bolted lead & 1st lead belay. We got as far as the traverse & then bailed, which was good fun in itself.

with Amalie
pezzerrr 06/Aug/16 2nd O/S
Harry10933 10/Jul/16 Lead β

First pitch

MegBaker 18/Jun/16 Lead

P1 only

with Navman
Hidden 18/Jun/16 Lead dog
stuartf 27/Apr/16 Lead rpt

Pitch 1 only

Marktrin 16/Jan/16 2nd

Just seconded first pitch as usual. Did the difficult bit on the first attempt, which is a first. Badly strained/sprained ankle on walk down to Blue Sky. Turned out I'd broken the left fibula.

with phil456
MathewWright1998 ??/2016 Lead O/S
andrea83 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Ant lead P1, Nick then followed doing P1 only. I seconded P1 and then lead P2, with Ant seconding. Nice route, def worthwhile.

with AEH, Nick
AEH 27/Sep/15 AltLd

Awesome fun

phil456 23/Sep/15 TR rpt
with Matt R, Sean K
Sean Kelly 23/Sep/15 2nd

Pitch one only as it was pretty dark!

with Phil Ellis, Matt Reynolds
mreynolds 23/Sep/15 Lead O/S
keepguessing 08/Aug/15 Lead

Practiced the route first on alternative leads and seconded the second pitch, proceeded to simul climb it making it very very bold on the first route and especially scary (and bold) on the second pitch, partner hit the crux on first pitch just before i topped out so became especially, if practiced and well bellow your grade (think mid 7's) this makes a good first simul climb, that being said i was shitting my self on the crux of the last pitch.

with sam
Nathan Chrismas 18/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

This was fun. Felt nice and traddy.

with Lucas F
Chris Ebbutt 22/Jun/15 2nd
with Mathew, Dave R.
Okecroak 22/Jun/15 AltLd O/S
with M Mercy, C. Ebbutt
LauraTejada ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jun/15 AltLd
Marktrin 15/May/15 2nd

Just seconded first pitch as usual.

with Phil
OllieF 10/May/15 AltLd O/S

Took a big fall after a hold snapped whilst clipping bolt during crux, claiming the onsight as it was flowing very nicely up until that point! 10 cm from decking!

with Martin
phil456 04/May/15 Lead rpt

First Pitch only, 5+

with SP
Chris Ebbutt 15/Apr/15 AltLd

Lead second pitch at last, great positions.

with Alex
Chris Ebbutt 05/Apr/15 Lead

First pitch only

monkeytennis 05/Apr/15 Lead dnf

Did pitch one on Chris's draws. For some reason pulled on the draw after the ohang. Took ages to committ to the the upper slab. First lead of the year. Did not do pitch two.

with Chris Tebbit
petecallaghan 11/Jan/15 2nd O/S

We took the direct finish by mistake and turned it into a monstrous sport trad hybrid. Don't make the same mistake.

with Silvia Candia, Jamie T, Ben Devenish
Rob1082 ??/2015 -
Mr Tickle 05/Oct/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2

with Paul
Hidden 29/Sep/14 2nd O/S
Hidden 29/Sep/14 Lead
NancyJones 30/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/14 Lead rpt
Hidden 02/Aug/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Jul/14 2nd O/S
LDJ 09/Jul/14 Lead

1st pitch only

with Lou
Hidden 14/Jun/14 -
JackMac 13/Jun/14 AltLd rpt
Hidden 06/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Crevisking 26/May/14 -
little_livvi 19/Apr/14 2nd
Deary65 23/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Easy first pitch - more like a scramble. More interesting second with decent exposure.

R2B 23/Mar/14 AltLd O/S

Led P2. Brilliant, adventurous, loose, fun.

Paul Robertson 30/Jan/14 Lead

pitch 1

Mark Davies PK 30/Jan/14 Lead O/S

Just first pitch

with Deepstar
monkeytennis 16/Nov/13 Lead rpt

First pitch only. On attempt one could not work out sequence for crux, lowered off. Lead clean on attempt two finding an additional hold. Moves felt fairly easy.

Hidden 10/Nov/13 AltLd O/S
fire_munki 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S

Bailed after 1st pitch

monkeytennis 10/Nov/13 2nd O/S
with Matt Thorne; Chris Weight
DCIGadget 18/Sep/13 AltLd dog

lead 1st pitch - first lead in 2 yrs off enjoyed did clean. 2nd pitch 2nded pulled on the gear at the crux - still very fun - thanks Tim

timreynolds 18/Sep/13 AltLd

Lead P2 - very crozzly!

dmoir 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

First pitch only

iantoday 13/Aug/13 Lead dnf

climbed first pitch as part of my ongoing rehab

Chris Ebbutt 11/Aug/13 Lead

First pitch only

francois 06/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Chawn p1. Led p2. Nicely exposed and not too as loose as expected - I only broke off one foot hold!

with Chawn
lecko 26/May/13 AltLd

Made a navigational faux pas and traversed right at the top, ended up running it out on a mixture of grass and loose rock and had to have a rope lobbed down to finish. Esoteric fun at least!

Andy bowden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Sam Falconer 19/Apr/13 2nd
Hidden 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
andy south devon 27/Jan/13 Lead O/S

realy fun climb great way to finish a great day!

Marti999 04/Jan/13 AltLd O/S
AlexD 04/Jan/13 Lead O/S
with Debbie, Marti
lewisrichardson ??/2013 Lead RP
with dad
alice fuller 16/Oct/12 Lead O/S
Luke Dawson 13/Oct/12 Lead O/S
JackMac 26/Jul/12 AltLd

First ever multi-pitch. Really enjoyed it but did have a slight moment after pulling a loose, fist sized chunk of rock out of the cliff right by the crux!

with Camwa
Hidden 26/Jul/12 AltLd O/S
mikeshewring 01/Jul/12 Lead O/S

1st pitch

phil456 24/May/12 -

1st First Pitch (5) only,my first sport route, harder than expected. clean o/s, and repeated, will go back, looking to progress at Ansteys.

with Mark G
KDSclimber 20/May/12 Lead

Ist pitch only - Easy. My 1st Sports Climb (aged 10). I want to come back & do the 2nd pitch soon.

with Richard
Jon_Warner 13/May/12 AltLd O/S

Done as a 3. In the sun. 1st pitch good. 2nd pitch Great traddy fun!

with Jenni, Tom
EcoClimber 13/May/12 Lead dog

Rope extender VERY frayed (I'll try to replace on next visit). My 1st sports route! really enjoyed it. Had 1 rest on bolt.

with Sarah Keight
skeight88 13/May/12 2nd

Found it difficult to get up the arete until I found a nice undercut. The traverse was difficult, but did it clean

with Richard
Hidden 13/May/12 2nd
Ellis Butler-Barker 11/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Easy but I had so much fun and really enjoyed the route!

with Gary Willis
robbie Warke 16/Mar/12 2nd


Tom Gale 05/Feb/12 Lead dnf

Took the Wrong Route (Didn't do traverse) - with serious runout over dirt on second pitch, need to come back and do it properly (might not be so scary if I take the bolted route!)

with Joe
Brian H 22/Jan/12 Lead O/S

Rik led first pitch.

with Rik
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
JackHatton 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S

i did the second pitch ran out of quick draws so i had to use slings

catt 09/Oct/11 Lead O/S

1st pitch only, very pleasant. Above looked ming.

with Blane
Motown 24/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Richy
Hidden 24/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
Legs 13/Aug/11 Lead O/S

I only did the first pitch up the slab, which is a 5 or 4+. Was a fun climb, strange thing to be bolted compared to the rest of the crag!

with Macca
Pete Scott 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead the second pitch. Scary, climbed it like it was looser than it probably was.

Marcus B 31/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

First Pitch. Nice fun route

Hidden 14/Jul/11 Lead rpt
Hidden 07/Jul/11 AltLd rpt
Hidden 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Jul/11 Lead O/S
iantoday 07/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Lead 1st Pitch (F5)

Hidden 04/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Chaman 22/Jun/11 AltLd

I led 2nd pitch - much more interesting than 1st pitch. Took a fall on the traverse when a hold broke off! Had to lower to slab, traverse back and re-climb.

with Alex Hartley
DCIGadget 22/Jun/11 AltLd β

led first pitch 2nd next pitch Very enjoyable 1st pitch one move wonder 2nd pitch stunning

with mike reading, chris ebbutt
Chris Ebbutt 22/Jun/11 2nd
with DCIGadget, Mike
Dave Searle 16/Jun/11 -
steveprice.exmouth 14/Jun/11 AltLd
with Emgrant
Hidden 14/Jun/11 AltLd
misterb 13/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with dave
Hidden 29/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/11 AltLd O/S
Gilster 21/May/11 AltLd O/S
Justin T 15/May/11 AltLd O/S

P2. Cool route!

with Cherry
Hidden 15/May/11 AltLd
little_tammy 12/May/11 Lead O/S

Lead 2nd pitch

with Doug McNeall
berry 10/May/11 2nd O/S
with ken Palmer, Kafoozalem
Popkids 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Kafoozalem
Hidden 11/Jan/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2009 -
J5Kay ??/0000 Lead O/S
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High 6a+
Mid 6a+
Low 6a+
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 23
Votes cast 22
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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