UKC

20m.

Rockfax Description
Good climbing but not overly endowed with protection. Climb on the ledge via the groove and then access the flake on the wall behind awkwardly (very hard for the short - at least 5b). Mantel on this then climb straight up to the break and a good runner. Continue leftwards up the pleasant face to the final moves of Concave Wall. © Rockfax

FA. Dave Knowles 1969.

Ticklists

ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List

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User Date Notes
Tommy_shaw 30 Apr, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: Very thin route, would not like to fall, but all the holds are there.
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βeta: Very thin route, would not like to fall, but all the holds are there.
match 20 Feb, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: HVS4c excepting mantel move at the bottom, which is indeed 5b+ depending on height! Gear in break is ok, but there is a bomber Friend 1 in a pocket above the break making the only really bold bit that mantel at the bottom.
βeta?
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βeta: HVS4c excepting mantel move at the bottom, which is indeed 5b+ depending on height! Gear in break is ok, but there is a bomber Friend 1 in a pocket above the break making the only really bold bit that mantel at the bottom.
JR 15 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: definitely bomber gear in the break, just to the right, and a good cam in a pocket above the break on the left.
βeta?
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βeta: definitely bomber gear in the break, just to the right, and a good cam in a pocket above the break on the left.
Steve Parker 17 May, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Likewise about gear in the break - nothing you'd want to fall on, but a pretty bomber friend just a little higher. I'd say all 4c apart from one move lower down onto the mantel: about 5a. HVS is about right. Nice airy route.
βeta?
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βeta: Likewise about gear in the break - nothing you'd want to fall on, but a pretty bomber friend just a little higher. I'd say all 4c apart from one move lower down onto the mantel: about 5a. HVS is about right. Nice airy route.
wilkie14c 22 Apr, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Me too! a poor cam on each side of you at the break. A better cam about 1M higher though. a sideways wire behind the mantle flake so its no a complete sandbag! BMC only have it as VS! Strange that the other finish (time) is E1 and as there is no further gear on either route from the break and a fall would be the same outcome for both routes? Nice climbing though, 1 5a move, but solid HVS.
βeta?
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βeta: Me too! a poor cam on each side of you at the break. A better cam about 1M higher though. a sideways wire behind the mantle flake so its no a complete sandbag! BMC only have it as VS! Strange that the other finish (time) is E1 and as there is no further gear on either route from the break and a fall would be the same outcome for both routes? Nice climbing though, 1 5a move, but solid HVS.
r0b 10 May, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: Good runner in the main break? I couldn't find one and had to make do with two shoddy friends! A bold route.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Good runner in the main break? I couldn't find one and had to make do with two shoddy friends! A bold route.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 29
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 28
Votes cast 25
Style of Ascent
Lead
Toproped
Followed
Soloed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Dogged
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
Hollow Earth

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Trowbarrow)

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