Rockfax Description
A long and varied line-up of steep pitches build to an exposed climax on the final headwall. Start left of the base of East Gully.
1) 4b, 13m. Climb three square-cut corners to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. On the left of the ledge are two parallel rounded cracks. Take these steeply, and the crack above, to another good belay ledge.
3) 5a, 17m. Climb easily to another ledge in an overhung recess. Take the steep right hand corner to the overhang and pull right to an exposed ledge and belay.
4) 5b, 12m. Move right beneath the wall to a line of weakness and climb to a black streak. Climb the black streak on small holds to a break and make a final tricky sequence to pass it. The top is just above. © Rockfax

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Kernow, West Country Climbs

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Tim Bevan 14 Sep AltLd Good route. Did it in two. I led the first half which felt pretty stiff until I switched to jamming. Dave led the second half with the awesome move around the overhang. We both agree the other had the better half, should have swapped!
Good route. Did it in two. I led the first half which felt pretty stiff until I switched to jamming. Dave led the second half with the awesome move around the overhang. We both agree the other had the better half, should have swapped!
DaveThexton 14 Sep AltLd 2 and 3 were the cruxes, although neither were too hard. final pitch seemed pretty straightforward.
2 and 3 were the cruxes, although neither were too hard. final pitch seemed pretty straightforward.
Hidden 23 Jul AltLd
Nigel Coe 18 Jul Lead dog Fell while moving to left-hand crack. OK second go.
with Amnon
Fell while moving to left-hand crack. OK second go.
with Amnon
JagoNeath 15 Jul Lead
with 96izzi
with 96izzi
96izzi 15 Jul 2nd
Hidden 21 Jun 2nd
Paul Sagar 19 Jun AltLd O/S HVS 5a at best! Decent enough climbing but quite broken up. The Rockfax pitch description for the third pitch is useless. Pretty sure I belayed in the wrong place but we finished up the right way.
with khalidq
HVS 5a at best! Decent enough climbing but quite broken up. The Rockfax pitch description for the third pitch is useless. Pretty sure I belayed in the wrong place but we finished up the right way.
with khalidq
khalidq 19 Jun AltLd O/S
Jim blackford 3 May Lead β pitch 3 is VS 5a, pitch 4 is only HVS 5a. Pitch 2 had a couple of hard committing moves worthy of E1 where i almost decided to rest! but its probably soft if you use jams (i didnt)
pitch 3 is VS 5a, pitch 4 is only HVS 5a. Pitch 2 had a couple of hard committing moves worthy of E1 where i almost decided to rest! but its probably soft if you use jams (i didnt)
Hidden 3 May 2nd
Hidden 21 Apr AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 Apr AltLd O/S
cem 18 Apr AltLd O/S Led p2 & 4. A one star route at most.
with GrahamD
Led p2 & 4. A one star route at most.
with GrahamD
Hidden 19 Oct, 2018 AltLd
Tom Last 19 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S Nice route. Billy dropped his red dragon off the top of the second pitch. It stopped basically in the sea, but still sat in a little groove. I went for the rescue times between the swell and succeeded! Cracks on pitch 2 weren't as burly as they're made out to be, just good jams and jugs really. Third pitch through the roof is super easy, top pitch is airy. Seconded as had planned to head over to do Central Highway, but that didn't work out, annoyingly.
Nice route. Billy dropped his red dragon off the top of the second pitch. It stopped basically in the sea, but still sat in a little groove. I went for the rescue times between the swell and succeeded! Cracks on pitch 2 weren't as burly as they're made out to be, just good jams and jugs really. Third pitch through the roof is super easy, top pitch is airy. Seconded as had planned to head over to do Central Highway, but that didn't work out, annoyingly.
Dannie 27 Aug, 2018 2nd β Second pitch. Felt hard with hand jams etc
with Stu Bradbury
Second pitch. Felt hard with hand jams etc
with Stu Bradbury
Nathan Chrismas 27 Aug, 2018 Lead Variation on the top pitch with an 'interesting' mid height shuffle traverse out right into Pendulum Chimney
with Laura
Variation on the top pitch with an 'interesting' mid height shuffle traverse out right into Pendulum Chimney
with Laura
Hidden 27 Aug, 2018 AltLd
Big Lee 26 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Led all pitches after Anna backed off P2. P2 was probably the best and hardest. Nice pull around the roof of P3. P4 was steady, although a little runout.
with annak
Led all pitches after Anna backed off P2. P2 was probably the best and hardest. Nice pull around the roof of P3. P4 was steady, although a little runout.
with annak
annak 26 Jul, 2018 2nd O/S
with Big Lee
with Big Lee
Tom Seccombe 11 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Alex
with Alex
foobar123 27 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Bethan tried to lead P2, but fell off a couple of times so I ended up taking on the whole route. Really pleasant and varied with the best belay ledges I've found on an E-graded route, so a good choice for a group of three. Probably HVS up to the final pitch, which isn't too hard either.
with Bethan Morris, Elin Falla
Bethan tried to lead P2, but fell off a couple of times so I ended up taking on the whole route. Really pleasant and varied with the best belay ledges I've found on an E-graded route, so a good choice for a group of three. Probably HVS up to the final pitch, which isn't too hard either.
with Bethan Morris, Elin Falla
Hidden 24 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
The_Boy_ODwyer 6 May, 2018 Lead O/S
with Caroline
with Caroline
Will Mortimer 22 Apr, 2018 AltLd
Dexter JW 22 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 20 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
kingholmesy ??, 2018 AltLd O/S Traversed in above P1 after retreating from swell at the bottom of Bulging Wall area. Led P2 & P4.
with Colin
Traversed in above P1 after retreating from swell at the bottom of Bulging Wall area. Led P2 & P4.
with Colin
Cbulman 18 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
ClimbingAlex 18 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S Led P2
with Cbulman
Led P2
with Cbulman
tobiasae3 26 Oct, 2017 2nd O/S Really good cracks. First pitch was bold and third was hardest.
Really good cracks. First pitch was bold and third was hardest.
Hidden 26 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
janegallwey 26 Sep, 2017 AltLd O/S
Pero 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd Led P1 & 3. P3 felt like a well-protected VS 4c.
Led P1 & 3. P3 felt like a well-protected VS 4c.
Gudge 27 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Pero Kalugerovich
with Pero Kalugerovich
Simon Allcock 22 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S I led p1 and p3. p3 intimidating roof but straightforward once committed. p2 the hardest pitch, esp to lead - v pumpy in the twin cracks. well done Wilks
with Wilki
I led p1 and p3. p3 intimidating roof but straightforward once committed. p2 the hardest pitch, esp to lead - v pumpy in the twin cracks. well done Wilks
with Wilki
ollie1 18 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with LDJ
with LDJ
LDJ 18 Aug, 2017 AltLd
with ollie1
with ollie1
SimonWooden 6 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S Mark lead pitches 2 and 4
with Mark Lewis
Mark lead pitches 2 and 4
with Mark Lewis
Alison Cairns 10 Jul, 2017 AltLd O/S Led p1, 3&4. Thought final crux pitch bit of an imposter - balancey but only 5a, although a bit runout. P2 probably the best climbing.
with Alice T
Led p1, 3&4. Thought final crux pitch bit of an imposter - balancey but only 5a, although a bit runout. P2 probably the best climbing.
with Alice T
mark4344 23 Jun, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Sue
with Sue
Sardien 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S P1&3, thought P2 was by far the hardest of the 4
with nawface
P1&3, thought P2 was by far the hardest of the 4
with nawface
Sarah Black 15 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S
robgixer 14 Apr, 2017 Lead O/S
Chimnastics 11 Apr, 2017 AltLd O/S I led the first two pitches as one. The crack pitch is great - really nice crack climbing with bomber jams galore. Ahab took it to the top from there in one. I found pitch 3 quite spicy, even on second. We finished up the last pitch of Neptune, as we'd already done the last pitch of this route by mistake when climbing Neptune. Soft for E1. HVS 5a (high 5a).
I led the first two pitches as one. The crack pitch is great - really nice crack climbing with bomber jams galore. Ahab took it to the top from there in one. I found pitch 3 quite spicy, even on second. We finished up the last pitch of Neptune, as we'd already done the last pitch of this route by mistake when climbing Neptune. Soft for E1. HVS 5a (high 5a).
Lumbering Oaf 11 Apr, 2017 AltLd rpt Seconded this when ill last time. Matt ran P1 and P2 together. I finished up P3 and the top pitch of Neptune (seeing as we'd previously accidentally done the top pitch of Excelsior whilst climbing Neptune).
Seconded this when ill last time. Matt ran P1 and P2 together. I finished up P3 and the top pitch of Neptune (seeing as we'd previously accidentally done the top pitch of Excelsior whilst climbing Neptune).
Brian H 9 Apr, 2017 AltLd rpt
with Martin Dunning
with Martin Dunning
WillDoyle ?Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S
mattbarratt7a 5 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S
with Stu
with Stu
davebrox 11 May, 2016 AltLd Rob and Danny
Rob and Danny
Master Chief 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S I did pitch 1 and 3! Pitch 2 felt the hardest to me!
with Spearos
I did pitch 1 and 3! Pitch 2 felt the hardest to me!
with Spearos
Spearos 3 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue 2 Sep, 2015 AltLd A really good route, excellent crack climbing on the 2nd pitch, surprisingly pumpy (despite some big holds) on the 4th pitch.
with Tom Lawfield
A really good route, excellent crack climbing on the 2nd pitch, surprisingly pumpy (despite some big holds) on the 4th pitch.
with Tom Lawfield
Hidden 31 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S
cornishben 15 Aug, 2015 AltLd O/S Led P2 and P4
with Rich Draisey
Led P2 and P4
with Rich Draisey
th£wrecker 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
with dillwat
with dillwat
Dilwat 31 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S P 1 & 4. Great route, with loads of variety. P2 is the tough one.
P 1 & 4. Great route, with loads of variety. P2 is the tough one.
rob.grafton 28 Jun, 2015 2nd
with Martin Smith, andy bunnage
with Martin Smith, andy bunnage
jimmatthews 21 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21 May, 2015 AltLd O/S
Slick 4 Apr, 2015 AltLd
alastairbegley 4 Apr, 2015 AltLd O/S Not sure where the 5b move was on the top pitch, second pitch felt like the crux to me. Route was brilliant.
with Slick
Not sure where the 5b move was on the top pitch, second pitch felt like the crux to me. Route was brilliant.
with Slick
Hidden ??, 2015 -
jhb0510 28 Sep, 2014 2nd dog Had to have a rest on the crack pitch, thought it was really hard.
with Luke Randall
Had to have a rest on the crack pitch, thought it was really hard.
with Luke Randall
derekm 10 Sep, 2014 AltLd Like many, I found the twin cracks on pitch2 pretty hard - it was not long after high water and they were greasy and slippery. Good gear at least! The following two pitches were great, although that top pitch is very 'out there' with not much gear. I'd say 5b, 5a, 5a/b
Like many, I found the twin cracks on pitch2 pretty hard - it was not long after high water and they were greasy and slippery. Good gear at least! The following two pitches were great, although that top pitch is very 'out there' with not much gear. I'd say 5b, 5a, 5a/b
Hidden 20 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
david morse 20 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S Led p3. Thought cracks on p2 was the crux
with chris todd
Led p3. Thought cracks on p2 was the crux
with chris todd
Hidden 20 Aug, 2014 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 31 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P1&2 as one.
with Matt, Lumbering Oaf
Led P1&2 as one.
with Matt, Lumbering Oaf
Lumbering Oaf 31 Jul, 2014 2nd O/S Felt gippy throughout but thought the whole route was pretty steady and very enjoyable, especially as second :) .
with Matt McLay, spragglerocks
Felt gippy throughout but thought the whole route was pretty steady and very enjoyable, especially as second :) .
with Matt McLay, spragglerocks
Batt 17 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S Lead P2&4. Thought P2 harder than the 5b pitch!
with sim0n
Lead P2&4. Thought P2 harder than the 5b pitch!
with sim0n
smallerrich 14 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S The cracks are good, didnt think much of the rest, top pitch was easy - far more so than the first.
with Konrad
The cracks are good, didnt think much of the rest, top pitch was easy - far more so than the first.
with Konrad
Robin Woodward ?Jul, 2013 AltLd dog Did pitch 2 and had trouble in the parallel cracks, lack of chalk to start with didn't help with the damp.
Did pitch 2 and had trouble in the parallel cracks, lack of chalk to start with didn't help with the damp.
Coops_13 6 Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
with Rachel Ashwell
with Rachel Ashwell
rashwell ?Jun, 2013 2nd
chrisallan 28 Apr, 2013 AltLd O/S
Marcin78 ??, 2013 AltLd
with Stu
with Stu
jakenichol 4 Jun, 2012 Lead O/S Either the top pitch has changed over the years, or this is very soft for 5b. gear was small but bomber. 5a twin cracks was hardest pitch by far.
with haylow
Either the top pitch has changed over the years, or this is very soft for 5b. gear was small but bomber. 5a twin cracks was hardest pitch by far.
with haylow
arandall 11 May, 2012 Lead dnf Did first two pitches then came face to face with a bird, i tried convincing it that despite its first impression it didn't want to peck my eyes out, but it disagreed, so with much hex swinging i lowered off. Another time when there aren't birds.
Did first two pitches then came face to face with a bird, i tried convincing it that despite its first impression it didn't want to peck my eyes out, but it disagreed, so with much hex swinging i lowered off. Another time when there aren't birds.
monsteratt 5 May, 2012 AltLd O/S Tide was coming in so ended up scrambling up first pitch. I lead p2 and p4. P2 was good and p4 not as hard as I was expecting.
with Chris Goddard
Tide was coming in so ended up scrambling up first pitch. I lead p2 and p4. P2 was good and p4 not as hard as I was expecting.
with Chris Goddard
Hidden 5 May, 2012 AltLd O/S
Marti999 15 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
with Guy Buckingham
Hidden 15 Apr, 2012 -
givemetea 8 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S Lead P2 and P5 (CC guide pitches). Patrick led P1 and rather than putting P3 and P4 together (as in the Rockfax) decided to split them leading both. P5, the 5b pitch, was easy but the first 5a pitch (P2) felt nails - The cracks were sopping wet and steep. I got a mega-pump, could barely take a hand of to place gear and was pretty close to decking onto the massive belay ledge below! Had to place gear, then down-climb to rest and depump. Lots of seagulls, seagull poo, crashing waves etc. Fab!
Lead P2 and P5 (CC guide pitches). Patrick led P1 and rather than putting P3 and P4 together (as in the Rockfax) decided to split them leading both. P5, the 5b pitch, was easy but the first 5a pitch (P2) felt nails - The cracks were sopping wet and steep. I got a mega-pump, could barely take a hand of to place gear and was pretty close to decking onto the massive belay ledge below! Had to place gear, then down-climb to rest and depump. Lots of seagulls, seagull poo, crashing waves etc. Fab!
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Julesthe1st 29 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Mike Peak
with Mike Peak
Hidden 21 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 21 Aug, 2011 Lead O/S Led througout in 2 pitches... Enjoyed the jamming, lots of jug hauling too. Felt like two grit HVS's on top of each other!
Led througout in 2 pitches... Enjoyed the jamming, lots of jug hauling too. Felt like two grit HVS's on top of each other!
Hidden 19 Aug, 2011 AltLd
TerryLines 15 Aug, 2011 AltLd dog
Hidden 5 Jun, 2011 AltLd O/S
1202alarm 20 May, 2011 AltLd Found the first crack pitch way harder than the rest of it! Birds weren't too fierce thankfully. The last pitch has a bomber hex in the break then a bit of a runout before you get to the jugs though it did not feel hard at all compared to the first 5a pitch. A lovely route!
Found the first crack pitch way harder than the rest of it! Birds weren't too fierce thankfully. The last pitch has a bomber hex in the break then a bit of a runout before you get to the jugs though it did not feel hard at all compared to the first 5a pitch. A lovely route!
Hidden 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 28 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
with Pagan
with Pagan
dan gibson 26 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S led in one big pitch
with helen gibson
led in one big pitch
with helen gibson
jchenoweth 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S
mark20 25 Apr, 2011 AltLd O/S Led P1 and P3. Dirty.
Led P1 and P3. Dirty.
Hidden 24 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Ian Jones 23 Apr, 2011 Lead dnf A frustrating one. Unable to access at tidal level. Abbed in. Superb 5a pitch then stubborn seabird colonies refused us passage.
with Seargeant Serge, Brigadier Sir Roger Benton
A frustrating one. Unable to access at tidal level. Abbed in. Superb 5a pitch then stubborn seabird colonies refused us passage.
with Seargeant Serge, Brigadier Sir Roger Benton
sergio46 23 Apr, 2011 2nd O/S Tide was too high was first pitch. Ian leaded 2nd pitch and Roger 3rd. We are to get off route, due to bird nest.
with roger benton, Ian Jones
Tide was too high was first pitch. Ian leaded 2nd pitch and Roger 3rd. We are to get off route, due to bird nest.
with roger benton, Ian Jones
bunn.aroundthebloc 25 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S I Lead the Crux Pitch
with Tom Thorpe
I Lead the Crux Pitch
with Tom Thorpe
Jim Slater 29 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P2 and P4
Led P2 and P4
Pete Wimbush 22 Aug, 2010 AltLd O/S led pitches 1+3
led pitches 1+3
Bulls Crack ?Aug, 2010 AltLd E1: 4b 5a 5a 5a
with RW
E1: 4b 5a 5a 5a
with RW
Martin Bennett 15 Jun, 2010 -
with Megan Beaumont, Ali
with Megan Beaumont, Ali
verticon 13 May, 2010 Lead O/S
with Craig Harwood
with Craig Harwood
Different Steve 11 May, 2010 AltLd O/S Led 5a P2, Mick then led onto the top
with Mick Walsh
Led 5a P2, Mick then led onto the top
with Mick Walsh
sims 24 Sep, 2009 2nd dog
with Nick
with Nick
Huntlyfiddler 1 Nov, 2008 2nd
bpmclimb 1 Nov, 2008 Lead O/S Very enjoyable, with luxury belay ledges. Last pitch has a 5b move next to marginal small wire protection - just one good wire here and the whole climb would be HVS, IMO.
Very enjoyable, with luxury belay ledges. Last pitch has a 5b move next to marginal small wire protection - just one good wire here and the whole climb would be HVS, IMO.
Hidden 31 Aug, 2008 Lead
Matt Bennett 30 Aug, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 7 May, 2008 AltLd
Dan_Carroll 10 Apr, 2008 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
with Rebecca Holland
Hidden 6 Jul, 2007 AltLd
Epic Ebdon 5 May, 2007 2nd Fell off the "4c" pitch, having tried to take the right crack instead of the left. Apart from that, clean.
with Neil Adams
Fell off the "4c" pitch, having tried to take the right crack instead of the left. Apart from that, clean.
with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 5 May, 2007 Lead O/S Last pitch was far easier than expected, but the twin craks lower down were brutal!
Last pitch was far easier than expected, but the twin craks lower down were brutal!
Hidden ?Apr, 2007 AltLd
maybe_si 11 Mar, 2007 AltLd O/S
with jez
with jez
Hidden ??, 2007 -
Hidden ??, 2007 -
guyblackwood 8 Aug, 2006 AltLd Worth every penny- very social belays
with Mark Glaister, Alison M.
Worth every penny- very social belays
with Mark Glaister, Alison M.
Hidden 28 Dec, 2005 Lead O/S
steveb2006 17 Sep, 2005 AltLd Lead last pitch
with Pete Carter
Lead last pitch
with Pete Carter
Jason Gotel ?Aug, 2005 2nd Pippa fell and broke ankle, I rescued with Jim's help.
with Pippa Lansdown
Pippa fell and broke ankle, I rescued with Jim's help.
with Pippa Lansdown
gimmer ?May, 2005 AltLd O/S
with Matt Telfer
with Matt Telfer
skygodley 19 Jun, 2004 Lead O/S Sarah led pitch 2 and 4
with SarahM
Sarah led pitch 2 and 4
with SarahM
duncan 24 Apr, 2004 AltLd O/S
with tobyfk
with tobyfk
pezzerrr 12 Aug, 2003 Lead O/S
Paz ?Jun, 2003 AltLd O/S A lovely route after yet another Cornish sandbagging.
A lovely route after yet another Cornish sandbagging.
Hidden 19 Apr, 2003 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet ??, 2003 -
Rob Pitt ??, 2003 Lead O/S
Simon cook ?May, 2002 AltLd With Clark Alston
With Clark Alston
jfletcher 20 May, 2001 AltLd
Roget 12 Sep, 2000 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
craig h 29 Jul, 2000 AltLd O/S
with Mark c
with Mark c
plain kitten ??, 2000 -
andy_pemberton ??, 1999 Lead done twice
with Steve Gooberman Hill, Rik Meek
done twice
with Steve Gooberman Hill, Rik Meek
Hidden ??, 1999 AltLd O/S
leadmat ??, 1998 -
Mark Kemball 1 Jun, 1997 Lead
with Rob Galley
with Rob Galley
GAtkins 7 Apr, 1996 Lead O/S
with David Trelawney-Ross
with David Trelawney-Ross
jcw ??, 1994 2nd
with Martin Harris
with Martin Harris
Hidden 10 May, 1987 AltLd O/S
Brian Wilderspin 30 Aug, 1981 AltLd O/S
Jah 3 May, 1980 AltLd A good varied climb with a great top pitch
with T. Sawyer
A good varied climb with a great top pitch
with T. Sawyer
Chris Terrey ?Apr, 1980 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
with Pete Hevezi
Dave Musgrove 7 Jun, 1977 AltLd
Hidden 27 Dec, 1976 Lead
Hidden ??, 1976 -
Steve Clegg 9 Sep, 1973 AltLd
with Chris H
with Chris H
Rick51 26 Sep, 1972 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??, 1967 2nd
with Mick Briggs
with Mick Briggs
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 43
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 41
Votes cast 38
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Not Set