Rockfax Description
A long and varied line-up of steep pitches build to an exposed climax on the final headwall. Start left of the base of East Gully.
1) 4b, 13m. Climb three square-cut corners to a large ledge.
2) 5a, 15m. On the left of the ledge are two parallel rounded cracks. Take these steeply, and the crack above, to another good belay ledge.
3) 5a, 17m. Climb easily to another ledge in an overhung recess. Take the steep right hand corner to the overhang and pull right to an exposed ledge and belay.
4) 5b, 12m. Move right beneath the wall to a line of weakness and climb to a black streak. Climb the black streak on small holds to a break and make a final tricky sequence to pass it. The top is just above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Kernow, West Country Climbs.

Cbulman 18/Nov/17 AltLd O/S
ClimbingAlex 18/Nov/17 AltLd O/S

Led P2

tobiasae3 26/Oct/17 2nd O/S

Really good cracks. First pitch was bold and third was hardest.

Hidden 26/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
janegallwey 26/Sep/17 AltLd O/S
Pero 27/Aug/17 AltLd

Led P1 & 3. P3 felt like a well-protected VS 4c.

Gudge 27/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
with Pero Kalugerovich
Simon Allcock 22/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

I led p1 and p3. p3 intimidating roof but straightforward once committed. p2 the hardest pitch, esp to lead - v pumpy in the twin cracks. well done Wilks

with Wilki
ollie1 18/Aug/17 AltLd O/S
LDJ 18/Aug/17 AltLd
with Ollie
SimonWooden 06/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Mark lead pitches 2 and 4

with Mark Lewis
Alison Cairns 10/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Led p1, 3&4. Thought final crux pitch bit of an imposter - balancey but only 5a, although a bit runout. P2 probably the best climbing.

with Alice T
mark4344 23/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Sue
Sardien 15/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

P1&3, thought P2 was by far the hardest of the 4

Sarah Black 15/Apr/17 AltLd O/S
robgixer 14/Apr/17 Lead O/S
manbat 11/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

I led the first two pitches as one. The crack pitch is great - really nice crack climbing with bomber jams galore. Ahab took it to the top from there in one. I found pitch 3 quite spicy, even on second. We finished up the last pitch of Neptune, as we'd already done the last pitch of this route by mistake when climbing Neptune. Soft for E1. HVS 5a (high 5a).

Lumbering Oaf 11/Apr/17 AltLd rpt

Seconded this when ill last time. Matt ran P1 and P2 together. I finished up P3 and the top pitch of Neptune (seeing as we'd previously accidentally done the top pitch of Excelsior whilst climbing Neptune).

Brian H 09/Apr/17 AltLd rpt
with Martin Dunning
WillDoyle ?/Oct/16 AltLd O/S
aylabarratt17 05/Aug/16 2nd O/S
with Stu
davebrox 11/May/16 AltLd

Rob and Danny

Master Chief 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

I did pitch 1 and 3! Pitch 2 felt the hardest to me!

Spearos 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S
nickdonohue 02/Sep/15 AltLd

A really good route, excellent crack climbing on the 2nd pitch, surprisingly pumpy (despite some big holds) on the 4th pitch.

with Tom Lawfield
Hidden 31/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
cornishben 15/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4

with Rich Draisey
dready 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with dillwat
Dilwat 31/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

P 1 & 4. Great route, with loads of variety. P2 is the tough one.

with dready
rob.grafton 28/Jun/15 2nd
with Martin Smith, andy bunnage
jimmatthews 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 21/May/15 AltLd O/S
Slick 04/Apr/15 AltLd
alastairbegley 04/Apr/15 AltLd O/S

Not sure where the 5b move was on the top pitch, second pitch felt like the crux to me. Route was brilliant.

Hidden ??/2015 -
jhb0510 28/Sep/14 2nd dog

Had to have a rest on the crack pitch, thought it was really hard.

with Luke Randall
derekm 10/Sep/14 AltLd

Like many, I found the twin cracks on pitch2 pretty hard - it was not long after high water and they were greasy and slippery. Good gear at least! The following two pitches were great, although that top pitch is very 'out there' with not much gear. I'd say 5b, 5a, 5a/b

Hidden 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
david morse 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Led p3. Thought cracks on p2 was the crux

with chris todd
Hidden 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
spragglerocks 31/Jul/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1&2 as one.

with Matt, Matt Box
Lumbering Oaf 31/Jul/14 2nd O/S

Felt gippy throughout but thought the whole route was pretty steady and very enjoyable, especially as second :) .

with Matt McLay, Rach Spraggs
Batt 17/Apr/14 AltLd O/S

Lead P2&4. Thought P2 harder than the 5b pitch!

smallerrich 14/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

The cracks are good, didnt think much of the rest, top pitch was easy - far more so than the first.

with Konrad
Robin Woodward ?/Jul/13 AltLd dog

Did pitch 2 and had trouble in the parallel cracks, lack of chalk to start with didn't help with the damp.

Coops_13 06/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Rachel Ashwell
rashwell ?/Jun/13 2nd
chrisallan 28/Apr/13 AltLd O/S
Marcin78 ??/2013 AltLd
with Stu
jakenichol 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Either the top pitch has changed over the years, or this is very soft for 5b. gear was small but bomber. 5a twin cracks was hardest pitch by far.

arandall 11/May/12 Lead dnf

Did first two pitches then came face to face with a bird, i tried convincing it that despite its first impression it didn't want to peck my eyes out, but it disagreed, so with much hex swinging i lowered off. Another time when there aren't birds.

monsteratt 05/May/12 AltLd O/S

Tide was coming in so ended up scrambling up first pitch. I lead p2 and p4. P2 was good and p4 not as hard as I was expecting.

with Chris Goddard
Hidden 05/May/12 AltLd O/S
Marti999 15/Apr/12 AltLd O/S
with Guy Buckingham
guy757 15/Apr/12 -
givemetea 08/Apr/12 AltLd O/S

Lead P2 and P5 (CC guide pitches). Patrick led P1 and rather than putting P3 and P4 together (as in the Rockfax) decided to split them leading both. P5, the 5b pitch, was easy but the first 5a pitch (P2) felt nails - The cracks were sopping wet and steep. I got a mega-pump, could barely take a hand of to place gear and was pretty close to decking onto the massive belay ledge below! Had to place gear, then down-climb to rest and depump. Lots of seagulls, seagull poo, crashing waves etc. Fab!

with Patrick
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Julesthe1st 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Mike
Hidden 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Rich Guest 21/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led througout in 2 pitches... Enjoyed the jamming, lots of jug hauling too. Felt like two grit HVS's on top of each other!

Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd
TerryLines 15/Aug/11 AltLd dog
Hidden 05/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
1202alarm 20/May/11 AltLd

Found the first crack pitch way harder than the rest of it! Birds weren't too fierce thankfully. The last pitch has a bomber hex in the break then a bit of a runout before you get to the jugs though it did not feel hard at all compared to the first 5a pitch. A lovely route!

Hidden 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
climbingpixie 28/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Andy
dan gibson 26/Apr/11 Lead O/S

led in one big pitch

with helen gibson
jchenoweth 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
mark20 25/Apr/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3. Dirty.

Hidden 24/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Ian Jones 23/Apr/11 Lead dnf

A frustrating one. Unable to access at tidal level. Abbed in. Superb 5a pitch then stubborn seabird colonies refused us passage.

with Seargeant Serge, Brigadier Sir Roger Benton
sergio46 23/Apr/11 2nd O/S

Tide was too high was first pitch. Ian leaded 2nd pitch and Roger 3rd. We are to get off route, due to bird nest.

with roger benton, Ian Jones
El3ctroFuzz 25/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

I Lead the Crux Pitch

with Tom Thorpe
Jim Slater 29/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Led P2 and P4

Bulls Crack ?/Aug/10 AltLd

E1: 4b 5a 5a 5a

with RW
Martin Bennett 15/Jun/10 -
with Megan Beaumont, Ali
verticon 13/May/10 Lead O/S
with Craig Harwood
Different Steve 11/May/10 AltLd O/S

Led 5a P2, Mick then led onto the top

with Mick Walsh
Seymore Butt ??/2010 -
sims 24/Sep/09 2nd dog
with Nick
Huntlyfiddler 01/Nov/08 2nd
bpmclimb 01/Nov/08 Lead O/S

Very enjoyable, with luxury belay ledges. Last pitch has a 5b move next to marginal small wire protection - just one good wire here and the whole climb would be HVS, IMO.

with Clare
Hidden 31/Aug/08 Lead
Matt Bennett 30/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/May/08 AltLd
Dan_Carroll 10/Apr/08 Lead O/S
with Rebecca Holland
Hidden 06/Jul/07 AltLd
Epic Ebdon 05/May/07 2nd

Fell off the "4c" pitch, having tried to take the right crack instead of the left. Apart from that, clean.

with Neil Adams
Neil Adams 05/May/07 Lead O/S

Last pitch was far easier than expected, but the twin craks lower down were brutal!

Hidden ?/Apr/07 AltLd
maybe_si 11/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with jez
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
guyblackwood 08/Aug/06 AltLd

Worth every penny- very social belays

with Mark Glaister, Alison M.
Hidden 28/Dec/05 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/Sep/05 AltLd
Jason Gotel ?/Aug/05 2nd

Pippa fell and broke ankle, I rescued with Jim's help.

with Pippa Lansdown
gimmer ?/May/05 AltLd O/S
with Matt Telfer
skygodley 19/Jun/04 Lead O/S

Sarah led pitch 2 and 4

with SarahM
duncan 24/Apr/04 AltLd O/S
pezzerrr 12/Aug/03 Lead O/S
Paz ?/Jun/03 AltLd O/S

A lovely route after yet another Cornish sandbagging.

with CC
Hidden 19/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
Stone Muppet ??/2003 -
Rob Pitt ??/2003 Lead O/S
Simon cook ?/May/02 AltLd

With Clark Alston

jfletcher 20/May/01 AltLd
Roget 12/Sep/00 Lead O/S
with jon
craig h 29/Jul/00 AltLd O/S
with Mark c
plain kitten ??/2000 -
andy_pemberton ??/1999 Lead

done twice

with Steve Gooberman Hill, Rik Meek
clark alston ??/1999 AltLd O/S
with Simon Cook
leadmat ??/1998 -
Mark Kemball 01/Jun/97 Lead
with Rob Galley
GAtkins 07/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with David Trelawney-Ross
jcw ??/1994 2nd
with Martin Harris
Hidden 10/May/87 AltLd O/S
Jah 03/May/80 AltLd

A good varied climb with a great top pitch

with T. Sawyer
Chris Terrey ?/Apr/80 AltLd
with Pete Hevezi
Dave Musgrove 07/Jun/77 AltLd
Hidden 27/Dec/76 Lead
Paul Clarke ??/1976 -
with Mike Lynch, FMC
Steve Clegg 09/Sep/73 AltLd
with Chris H
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High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Votes cast 35
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 34
Votes cast 32
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set