Restricted Access
The crag is south facing for the most part and quick drying, especially with a bit of sea breeze. However, it's worth bearing in mind that traversing along the platform at the base of the crag (needed to get to most routes) can be exciting in anything other than calm seas. The traverse is generally accessible 3 hours either side of high tide for most of the crag and the base of Terrier's Tooth and Bishop's Buttress for slightly longer, although these times are significantly reduced during neap tides. During high tides or when big seas are running, it is also possible to abseil in to the upper pitches of several routes.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 15 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
The restriction applies to all routes on Bishop's Buttress - from Lacertion to The Mitre inclusive (route 82, page 153 to route 14, page 159 in the 2017 Climber's Club guidebook).
Routes within Zawn Rinny (Consolation Climb to Shark Alley) are also restricted during the same period, but the Zawn Rinny descent for the western end of Chair Ladder is fine to use.
Rockfax Description
A long expedition with varied climbing and good stances.
1) 16m. Climb the gully to a slab on its left and then stride right to a short corner. Continue to another short corner and move up it to a ledge and belays.
2) 14m. Move up another short corner to a ledge. Follow a groove in the slab above to a ledge and belay by the chimney.
3) 8m. The short but steep chimney to ledges.
4) 18m. The crack in the back of the gully leads to the top. © Rockfax
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Salvo1 | 18 Oct, 2020 |
Show βeta
βeta: Great climb VD coming on HVD Andy lead 1st pitch, I lead remainder. Large cams & nuts throughout the chimney, climbing the outer r/h/s. Sling thread at the top. Nice green wall above with a left to right flake with a bomber cam on l/h/s of flake. Holds are there, lichen or not lol. Continue up the next green wall, belay at boulders above. Lichen this one. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Great climb VD coming on HVD Andy lead 1st pitch, I lead remainder. Large cams & nuts throughout the chimney, climbing the outer r/h/s. Sling thread at the top. Nice green wall above with a left to right flake with a bomber cam on l/h/s of flake. Holds are there, lichen or not lol. Continue up the next green wall, belay at boulders above. Lichen this one. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Chair Ladder
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Land's End Long Climb
Grade: HVD ***
(Lands End)