75m, 4 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A stellar line up this wall - something of a safe adventure. Start below a bolted groove.
1) 7a, 25m. Climb the groove past many bolts. When the holds run out, make a move right onto the blank wall. A crucial foothold here can remain damp, but the bolt can provide aid past this. Regain the groove above and pull onto the ledge and belay.
2) 6b, 12m. A short pitch that links up and right, past bolts, to a second groove.
3) 6c, 25m. The second groove looks just as hard as the first but is a little easier. A similar step right to the first pitch bypasses a blank section of the groove before regaining it again and following it to the belay below a final dolerite slab.
4) 6b, 12m. Follow the bolts up the slab via some quartz pockets and belay off fence posts and a thread. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
An awesome 4 pitch slate adventure from the very bottom of the ‘Twll Mawr’ hole topping out on the viewing platform adjacent to the track. The route follows an impressive and awe-inspiring (read - intimidating!) line of grooves and pocketed dolerite. The route can be accessed through the Twll Mawr / Peregrine Wall Tunnels and walking down the scree slope to the bottom of the hole, or alternatively a multiple abseil if you have a spare rope. Start just left of Running Scared F7c+ by an obvious and well bolted groove.
Pitch 1 -25m (7a) the obvious well bolted groove defined by a blank slab / wall on its right. When the holds run out make a rightwards move onto the slab followed by some more technical moves to regain the groove (crux). Belay on the grassy Ledge above.
Pitch 2 – 12m (6b+) the pitch that joins the two grooves has a technical and precarious (fall offable!) crux. Continue upwards / rightwards to gain the belay at the base of the 2nd groove.
Pitch 3 – 25m (6c+ / 7a) the second intimidating groove pitch similar to the crux on the first pitch when the holds run out make a rightwards move onto the slab followed by some more technical moves to regain the groove (crux). Continue up the groove which looks desperate but climbs more easily to a belay where the groove ends and the dolerite slab begins.
Pitch 4 – 12m (6b) a change of character and rock type for the final well positioned pitch, climb the black dolerite slab via some great quartz pockets to thankfully gain the ‘viewing’ ledge above. Use a thread + Bolt for a belay and RELAX!

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 07/Jul/2011

Ticklists: a State of Slate, Classic UK F7s, Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7a & 7a+, Slate Sport, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!, Rock cats getting strong.


ClimberDateStyle
Stroppy 28/Aug Lead RP

Both led P1 then switched to alt leads. I fluffed the crux first time so had to repeat. Good route with lots of sustained interest. More consistent difficulty after P1 which has v. distinct crux.

Ed Houghton 26/Aug AltLd dog

P1 - Fell once at crux, then finished clean to belay. Lowered down to let Nick lead and then seconded clean after him no problem. Soft for 7a, just one hard move at crux. But definitely easier if tall (I'm 6'2 and could just reach the teensy crimp without needing the crap foot above the bolt). P2 - Lead clean - no way 6b, easily 6c! Short pitch but the crux pull was harder than any move on the 7a pitch. P3 - 2nd dog. Nearly clean but Nick shouted something about the rope just when I was on the crux - which is a really awkward clip (unclip on 2nd) and it knocked me right off my game! I yelled 'WHAT?? IS IT SAFE???', while holding on for dear life. Turned out there was no danger but I'd lost my focus and had to sit on the rope. Tip - the clip isn't so awkward if you look up and go a tad further... P4 - Lead clean - more like 6b+. Nice finish, spectacular finishing belay - Snowden to the side in the distance, the Quarryman opposite and a great view of Twll Mawr. A really good outing. Will do again as a warm up for one of the longer Twll Mawr sport routes methinks.

nickt 26/Aug Lead dog
will_lake 25/Aug AltLd O/S
Richardlake 25/Aug AltLd O/S

Pitch 2 is not 6b. The move out of the crack upwards onto the hanging blocks is as hard as anything on the first pitch and the hanging blocks have some loose parts that should be nice hand and foot holds. Takes away from some of the magic of the other three pitches. We thought the 3rd pitch was more sustained and difficult than the first, with two clear tricky strong cruxes. Guess its all subjective though. Amazing route...

Hidden 15/Aug AltLd rpt
Jmpollard 05/Jul AltLd dog

Led and onsighted P2 & 4, did P3 fine on second, and had one fall on the first pitch. Head was not in the slate game today.

Hidden 05/Jul AltLd
Cole Robertson 28/May Lead

Lead everything clean first go, except for when a hold broke in my hand on p3. It's a little easier now, as the hold was atop a little pillar, which broke, meaning the hold is lower and easier to reach! Couldn't be bothered to go back down for the clean RP. Annoying! But a great route. A little soft, I'd say. Great fun.

Peter Goulding 09/May Lead RP

Redpointed first pitch, fell off it three times. Fell twice on second pitch but climbed down, unclipped and did it clean. Loved pitch three.

Chriswallis2 17/Apr TR β

Was damp in the quarries so abseiled down a full 60m rope length to top-rope back out without knowing what the route was. Will have to come back for the lead.

with Mike W
stemill 15/Apr AltLd

Led P3, P4

with Mike Buddle
FreddieSmith 03/Apr 2nd β
spalice 03/Apr Lead O/S

Amazing route!!!

stemill 02/Apr 2nd

Just reccying P1

with Mike Buddle
WilliamRupp 26/Mar AltLd O/S
with felix
FelixJT 26/Mar AltLd
Saurusrock 25/Mar AltLd β

Such a good set of worthwhile climbs. I lead the easier pitches, but was stoked to get all of it without falling or resting.

GeneralFifi 25/Mar Lead

A brilliant climb! Lead pitches 1 and 3, sadly took a rest on the rope in the crux of pitch 1 but the rest was clean and no falls. Psyched for Jamie to get the whole thing clean! The grove is stellar, and quite soft for 7a, extremely well bolted as well. Been meaning to do this for a while now and I can say, it was totally worth it

with Jaime Shaw
Sam2257 22/Oct/16 AltLd RP

so good!

with EdGeall
waynekinrade 13/Aug/16 Lead O/S
soph 06/May/16 AltLd rpt
with Clinton martinengo
Hidden ?/May/16 Lead O/S
Peter Goulding ?/May/16 AltLd dog
griffithpatrick 23/Dec/15 Lead dnf

Abbed in last pitch only, v cold and lead half if it.

jacob shieldhouse hadley 23/Dec/15 2nd

abbed in last pitch only, v cold and aided the hole thing. very big adventure as we really fucked it with the rope work.

with paddy
James Beaumont 15/Dec/15 AltLd

Did 2nd pitch of black holes and revelations instead of pitch 2 and 3

with Max
max_dickens 15/Dec/15 2nd O/S

P1,P4

with Bow
luke glaister 27/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

Got lost but great fun. Did first pitch and belayed on the left. Then went straight up from there. Never noticed the bolts changed till past the hard smooth wall with square block. By then it was to late so I moved right to the top of the 3rd pitch belay on SMBH and then finished that route. It should be a link up cause it was brilliant. Will have to come back for the 2nd and 3rd pitches. Quality

Derek Ryden 27/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Great route, p3 superb. Guidebook grading all to cock. I would suggest 6c+, 6c, 6c+, 6b+

with Ian Parnell
MrBIond 23/Jun/15 Lead O/S
mrteale 16/Jun/15 Lead β

1st pitch. Favourite pitch on Slate so far.

with MrBlond
Hidden 06/Jun/15 AltLd dog
geoff b 06/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Another excellent route Ian, diolch yn fawr. Perhaps those of us with suppleness (or subtlety?) have an advantage on the first pitch? Generously bolted climbing on mostly solid rock.

Steve Long 06/Jun/15 AltLd
pete johnson 21/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Soft touch but superb.

with Al Hughes
ian Ll-J 10/Apr/15 Lead rpt
Rob Grant 21/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 05/May/14 AltLd O/S
Stefan_Morris 03/May/14 AltLd O/S
AndrewJamesCherry 03/May/14 AltLd O/S

Been eyeing it up all year, feels fantastic have onsighted it. Climbs really well

dswansonlow 02/May/14 AltLd O/S

Pitches 1,3,4 Sooo good! I strung he last two pitches together and it felt so awesome. I reckon it probably pays to be tall on pitch 3 because every move is quite long. Brilliant! 1st pitch felt much easier than I expected.

shed_hed 02/May/14 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2. Great route. Would not want to be much shorter, would quickly start to get very tricky!

guy757 21/Apr/14 -
colin struthers 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S

After completing the crux move right on the first pitch and having moved back left to the groove/arête I then pulled on a large block - which I think moved. Having crapped myself I climbed upward very swiftly - so I didn't hang around to inspect the hold/block. Consequently I can't say if the hold/block was really loose or if I just imagined it. My mate didn't notice anything dodgy when he seconded the pitch but he may well have used different holds. Nevertheless I thought I should post something on here so that other people will at least be aware of the possible danger. I suspect the dodgy rock is avoidable but it would be well worth having a look at the holds on the groove/arete above the crux step right if you are abbing in to the start of the route Offending block since removed by Ian LJ with no increase in grade. Thanks for doing that Ian

Hidden 01/Sep/13 AltLd O/S
soph 09/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
with Lee Cooper
Mattlamb90 27/Jul/13 2nd RP

Tried to lead first pitch but came off in the groove

with Ryan
spidey 27/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with mat lamb
Julian Cooper 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Abseiled in to the ledge and then down to the bottom. Great climb in the shade from the heatwave. Recommended. It looks like we did P1 of Supermassive and P2 of Black Holes. Then we finished up Black Holes too. Good adventure.

with Ben Steel
lewisrichardson ?/Jun/13 Lead dog
with dad
Hidden 03/May/13 2nd
rustaldo 03/May/13 Lead rpt

second time through for me, felt like a few holds had gone missing! (or maybe i was feeling weak) still great. 7a, 6b+, 6c/+, 6b for me.

morganator 02/May/13 AltLd

Fun, soft touch for 7a

with Calum Muskett
Paul Collins 19/Mar/13 2nd

Just climbed pitches 2,3 & 4 cause the abseil rope was too short!

with Rory Sullivan
Hidden 19/Mar/13 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Sep/12 AltLd O/S
with Nic Sellars
metal arms 04/Jun/12 Lead O/S
dan ely 16/May/12 Lead rpt
with pitbull
Luke Brooks 13/May/12 AltLd O/S
with Liam
willoates 08/May/12 AltLd O/S

A combination of this and black holes and revelatons. good climbing whatever we did.

with John Oooooore
rustaldo 28/Apr/12 Lead O/S

amazing route! good overall value at 7a, did it in 3pitches linking the last two. the climbing throughout is great, lots of thin moves between jugs.

with Tom
jason reeve 27/Nov/11 AltLd

led pitch 2 + 4, led pitch 4 in the dark with head torch. amazing route! first pitch definetly felt alot easier than 7a

with dylan
Hidden 13/Nov/11 AltLd
mark mcgowan01 13/Nov/11 AltLd O/S
with Trevor Hodgson, Johnny Dawes
Hidden 01/Nov/11 AltLd
owain86 04/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

Great Route, strung pitches 1+2 and 3+4 together. Led 3+4. Awesome!

Alex Mason 04/Sep/11 AltLd O/S

In two logical (6c+?) pitches. Led P1. Seconded P2 in the rain. Very well bolted and no really hard moves. Fantastic route, gauranteed to become a modern classic.

Dave Turnbull, BMC 29/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
with Chris Parkin
Hidden 19/Aug/11 AltLd O/S
dan ely 15/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

i lead crux pitches. congrats and big respect to the bolters (Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness) great effort and route, thanks very much!

with Torqwell
mr mills 05/Aug/11 AltLd O/S

Gareth led P1, I led P2-4 in one pitch. I would suggest the route to be done this way as there is an excellent belay ledge on pitch one. Good job Ian, excellent route...

with Gareth
Hidden 04/Aug/11 2nd dog
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Steve Long ?/Aug/11 Lead

A very nice route. The crux is much harder than the rest of the route, a high step up unless you have very long legs and can bridge it. Topped out at dusk. A great adventure, good effort spotting and cleaning it, Ian.

Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd
Hidden 23/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
schof 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Third ascent. I think this is on the cusp of 7a rather than 6c+. I think that if 7a was your limit and you expected this to be 'alrite' you'd get a spanking. Good climbing, mini quarryman-esk. Pitch 1 and 3 are the hardest. very good

with Big phil
phil64 14/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

great route, do in 2 long pitches, well bolted- thanks to the first asciensionists for all the hard work!

with andy schofield
Glyn 11/Jul/11 Lead O/S

Awesome route. Its not as hard as looks. Apart from a couple of moves all the holes are quite big and positive. Can be done as two long pitches. very well bolted and easy to find. http://adventuresplusnorthwales.blogspot.com/2011/07/supermassive-blackhole.html

with Calum Muskett
ian Ll-J 07/Jul/11 Lead

First Ascent an awesome and memorable adventure!

McGuinness 07/Jul/11 2nd O/S

Fantastic! Excellent climbing in a very intimidating position. Very pleased to be on the FA. (Ian did all the hard work though!)

with Ian ll-j
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Voting
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
High 6c+
Mid 6c+
Low 6c+
Votes cast 32
Votes cast 31
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set