32m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A classic graunch; well protected and quite bizarre though not too difficult for those used to gritstone weirdness.
1) 5b, 14m. Traverse the lowest break to a vertical slot and wriggle up this with difficulty. Shuffle out to the arete (harassing for the short) to a fine stance and awkward belays.
2) 5b, 14m. Roll off the ledge and use a tiny pocket to lunge for the spike. Continue left then pull up onto a short ramp back to the cliff top. This is the original line. The break in the north wall is sometimes followed all the way to the gully by mistake. © Rockfax

FA. Peter Harding, Tony Moulam 16/Jul/1945

Ticklists

Froggatt to Black Rocks (BMC) - The Grade List, Hard Grit history, Peak Rock/5/ Always a Little Steeper, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, The Black Rocks 1949 Guide VS Challenge, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Stonnis Allstars, The Froggatt to Black Rocks 3 Star Pilgrimage, Definitive *** Peak Grit, On Peak Rock, Rocksport Top Ten Grit Routes, Rockfax Eastern Grit: Peaks and Pinnacles

Feedback

UserDateNotes
MeMeMe 22 Aug, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: As the previous poster implies, this is a classic route, as much of an expedition as you can get on a crag of this size. The start of the first pitch has great gear and jams and is quite delicate for your feet. Making your way up to the nose however is awkward; you just have to discard your dignity and ignore that insecure "I'm going to roll off this rounded break and by the way where have all the hand holds gone?" feeling. The belay at the stance wasn't particularly awkward although sorting out the ropes so my parner could lead through meant him untying and then retying. The second pitch looked gripping to get to the spike, we couldn't find any clever gear placement before it and were a bit worried a fall would mean a big swing that would take you all the way around the nose. It's quite gripping on second too, getting your right hand on the tiny finger pocket is the crux and then it's a couple of easier moves to the safety of the spike. After the spike the problems ease and although it's not all over, if you've got that far you'll soon be at the top (or round the side or whatever the term is for an unpwards trending traverse!)
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: As the previous poster implies, this is a classic route, as much of an expedition as you can get on a crag of this size. The start of the first pitch has great gear and jams and is quite delicate for your feet. Making your way up to the nose however is awkward; you just have to discard your dignity and ignore that insecure "I'm going to roll off this rounded break and by the way where have all the hand holds gone?" feeling. The belay at the stance wasn't particularly awkward although sorting out the ropes so my parner could lead through meant him untying and then retying. The second pitch looked gripping to get to the spike, we couldn't find any clever gear placement before it and were a bit worried a fall would mean a big swing that would take you all the way around the nose. It's quite gripping on second too, getting your right hand on the tiny finger pocket is the crux and then it's a couple of easier moves to the safety of the spike. After the spike the problems ease and although it's not all over, if you've got that far you'll soon be at the top (or round the side or whatever the term is for an unpwards trending traverse!)
craig h 22 Feb, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: 'Roll off the ledge and use a tiny pocket to lunge for the spike.' This is possibly worse for the second as there is no overhead belay when setting off on the 2nd pitch, and the spike appears to be a long way off. This is gritstone climbing at it's best and should either be on your tick list or be something to aspire to. I think I will always lead the 2nd pitch now, and that's not down to the awkward 1st pitch which is well protected with big cams.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: 'Roll off the ledge and use a tiny pocket to lunge for the spike.' This is possibly worse for the second as there is no overhead belay when setting off on the 2nd pitch, and the spike appears to be a long way off. This is gritstone climbing at it's best and should either be on your tick list or be something to aspire to. I think I will always lead the 2nd pitch now, and that's not down to the awkward 1st pitch which is well protected with big cams.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 6 Apr 2nd dog
Hidden 6 Apr Lead O/S
Alkis 29 Jul, 2017 2nd O/S
Gordon W 29 Jul, 2017 Lead O/S did it with the direct finish as one pitch, great route and position
with Alkis
did it with the direct finish as one pitch, great route and position
with Alkis
Mike_Hayes 11 Aug, 2016 Lead 1945 - impressive!
with Mike Lea
1945 - impressive!
with Mike Lea
kermit_uk 13 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S I led P1, Olly led P2. Leaving the ledge as a second was the scariest part of the route! We almost got lost I belayed on the ledge below where i was meant to a fair bit of faff all added to the experience!
with olly
I led P1, Olly led P2. Leaving the ledge as a second was the scariest part of the route! We almost got lost I belayed on the ledge below where i was meant to a fair bit of faff all added to the experience!
with olly
Hidden 13 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S
jungle ?Jul, 2016 2nd
Dohnny_Jawes 30 May, 2016 2nd O/S
Hidden 30 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Dan Hostford 24 May, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 25 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S
jimmysdead 25 Oct, 2015 AltLd dog Fell / rested on the rope just before the finishing ramp.
with Blake
Fell / rested on the rope just before the finishing ramp.
with Blake
Andy Peak 1 14 Oct, 2015 AltLd O/S Mega, one of the best e1 s on grit !
with J Doors
Mega, one of the best e1 s on grit !
with J Doors
phil64 30 Sep, 2015 AltLd O/S Great little trip out.....
with Dave Hollinger
Great little trip out.....
with Dave Hollinger
ashtond6 1 May, 2015 Lead O/S Amazing climbing! The roll is terrifying to second!
Amazing climbing! The roll is terrifying to second!
Paul ablitt 25 Apr, 2015 Lead O/S Great fun climb
with Rushy
Great fun climb
with Rushy
Hidden 25 Apr, 2015 2nd
clanger ??, 2015 -
Hidden 4 May, 2014 Lead O/S
thrutch 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Sven
with Sven
SR1970 16 Apr, 2014 AltLd Brilliant
Brilliant
Hidden 22 Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S
markpollak ?Sep, 2013 AltLd O/S excellent climb!
with munir
excellent climb!
with munir
Hidden ?Aug, 2013 Lead O/S
MarkRoe 3 Apr, 2013 Lead O/S Linked the first pitch with the direct finish up the front of the prom. Felt very out there!
Linked the first pitch with the direct finish up the front of the prom. Felt very out there!
kabutsu 3 Apr, 2013 2nd
with MarkRoe
with MarkRoe
whitehouse_rhys 3 Apr, 2013 2nd O/S seconded cus rob got to cold on a rather brisk day out
with MarkRoe
seconded cus rob got to cold on a rather brisk day out
with MarkRoe
tgeh 25 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S lead P2 had to jump for the spike, not too hard for e1
with dan geh
lead P2 had to jump for the spike, not too hard for e1
with dan geh
Dan Geh 25 Jul, 2012 AltLd O/S Classic. Two very contrasting pitches, Thruchy first pitch and delicate second. More like HVS if you're used to grit.
with tgeh
Classic. Two very contrasting pitches, Thruchy first pitch and delicate second. More like HVS if you're used to grit.
with tgeh
Hidden ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 15 May, 2011 Lead O/S FANTASTIC!!! led both pitches. Not sure why this is E2 in the new guide book as its closer to HVS. Managed to work out an easy trick of lying on my back going head first onto the ledge before standing up to overcome the 'crack' on the first pitch, the rest of the pitch is about VS. On the 2nd pitch a couple of tricky but not overly hard moves using the pockets gains the spike. Lassoing looked more effort than just climbing to it. After this the climbing is on perfect jams with good gear and about VS all the way to the gully. What a route :)
FANTASTIC!!! led both pitches. Not sure why this is E2 in the new guide book as its closer to HVS. Managed to work out an easy trick of lying on my back going head first onto the ledge before standing up to overcome the 'crack' on the first pitch, the rest of the pitch is about VS. On the 2nd pitch a couple of tricky but not overly hard moves using the pockets gains the spike. Lassoing looked more effort than just climbing to it. After this the climbing is on perfect jams with good gear and about VS all the way to the gully. What a route :)
nige 15 May, 2011 AltLd
with mark hounslea
with mark hounslea
Hidden 24 Sep, 2010 Lead
stephenhartley 2 Aug, 2010 2nd
mikeyg 29 Jun, 2009 AltLd dog Gareth did the 1st pitch clean despite sounding like he was being tortured as he tried to get up the vertical crack. I lead the 2nd pitch which went well untill I accidently tried the E2 5c finish, fell off and went up the right way
with gnc760
Gareth did the 1st pitch clean despite sounding like he was being tortured as he tried to get up the vertical crack. I lead the 2nd pitch which went well untill I accidently tried the E2 5c finish, fell off and went up the right way
with gnc760
gnc760 20 Jun, 2009 AltLd O/S
with Mike Gadd
with Mike Gadd
Paz 18 Sep, 2008 AltLd dnf Partner tried to lead the first pitch and unfortunately got his knee stuck in the only vertical crack, and needed a rope from above.
Partner tried to lead the first pitch and unfortunately got his knee stuck in the only vertical crack, and needed a rope from above.
Hidden 18 Sep, 2008 AltLd
AntiGrav ??, 2008 -
Hidden ??, 2008 -
mshorter ?Nov, 2007 AltLd
with nils
with nils
Hidden 31 Jul, 2007 AltLd rpt
Hidden 13 Jun, 2007 AltLd
Hidden ??, 2007 2nd
Boy ??, 2006 -
MeMeMe ?Aug, 2005 Lead O/S
Dave Bond ??, 2003 Lead O/S
with SiW
with SiW
petekeron ??, 2002 2nd O/S
with Jamie Barclay
with Jamie Barclay
Brian Rodgers ??, 2002 AltLd O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 29 Apr, 2001 AltLd O/S
with Al Willoner
with Al Willoner
Gus ??, 2000 Lead
with ben rouse
with ben rouse
Seb Grieve ??, 2000 -
Hidden ?Jul, 1999 2nd
craig h 26 Apr, 1999 AltLd O/S
with Nez
with Nez
Dave Musgrove 1 Nov, 1998 AltLd O/S
Rich Kirby 8 May, 1998 AltLd
phardman 6 Apr, 1997 Lead O/S
with Jon Bibby
with Jon Bibby
steveb2006 11 Apr, 1995 Lead Led pitch 2
with Dennis May
Led pitch 2
with Dennis May
tlr 22 Apr, 1994 AltLd
with Jim
with Jim
steveb2006 30 Jul, 1993 AltLd Lead second pitch
with Simon Mee
Lead second pitch
with Simon Mee
Chris Reid ?Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
RichardMc 3 May, 1992 AltLd
with Jim Fisher
with Jim Fisher
Hidden ??, 1989 -
Hammy 11 Jun, 1988 2nd
with Colin Struthers
with Colin Struthers
Hidden 25 May, 1987 AltLd O/S
steveb2006 17 Apr, 1987 AltLd Led 2nd pitch
with Mervyn Dudley
Led 2nd pitch
with Mervyn Dudley
charlesmfrench 2 Jun, 1985 Lead O/S
uphillnow ??, 1980 -
mike bridges 24 Jul, 1979 2nd O/S Kev led,but it seemed just as hard to 2nd! Was HVS in old guide and was desperate!
with KRB
Kev led,but it seemed just as hard to 2nd! Was HVS in old guide and was desperate!
with KRB
mitch1960 ??, 1978 -
Pedro50 21 May, 1977 AltLd O/S
with Robin Miller
with Robin Miller
petemeads 5 Jun, 1976 Lead
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 21
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 19
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set