Rockfax Description
(The East Ridge) A classic line on great rock and with fantastic positions. The climbing is quite sustained and exposed and can be done in anything between five and ten pitches with some simul-climbing along the way depending on the team's ability/confidence. For a bigger day out, this route can be combined with the Nordøsteggen route on the Sildpollentinden (p.380) which is reached by descending the rocky ridge to the southwest - scrambling, with possible short abseils over rocky steps.
Start where the ridge steepens and climb it (N4-) to a crack. Head up this to the bulges, then climb rightwards through these (N4+) to easier ground. Continue up the crest to the first summit (N4-). Head along the near horizontal ridge (a path in places) to a short tricky crack (N4+), continuing past a very narrow section and on to the broader ridge. Continue up the buttress following the easiest line, initially up groove to the right of the crest (N5-). Climb up another groove in the crest leading to a short traverse left to access the ridge leading to the summit. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
A striking ridge in two tiers, The first tier has tricky route finding and is quite bold. The knife edge top tier is the highlight of the route, finishing on the very summit.
Ticklists
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Will S Hough | 16 Aug, 2023 |
Show βeta
βeta: The abseiling route: (2x60m ropes recommended) Start from all the cairns that form a line downwards, at one place the cairns form a sort of cross and by turning left you will find the first rappel attachment slightly hidden behind a pile. The rappel mount is located approx. 100m from where the path to the hiking route starts. There are a total of 3 bolted rappel attachments of approx. 40m, 52m and 60m. As of 2023, there was also a fourth abseil attachment I put in made of slings with screw carabiners approx. 30m below the 3rd attachment, using this allows you to get even further down (Remember to check the attachment and reinforce if necessary). Continue down into the forest and follow the base of the mountain round to the starting slabs and car park. More info https://www.narvikklatreklubb.no/uteklatring/tradisjonell-klatring/kuglhornet/ | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: The abseiling route: (2x60m ropes recommended) Start from all the cairns that form a line downwards, at one place the cairns form a sort of cross and by turning left you will find the first rappel attachment slightly hidden behind a pile. The rappel mount is located approx. 100m from where the path to the hiking route starts. There are a total of 3 bolted rappel attachments of approx. 40m, 52m and 60m. As of 2023, there was also a fourth abseil attachment I put in made of slings with screw carabiners approx. 30m below the 3rd attachment, using this allows you to get even further down (Remember to check the attachment and reinforce if necessary). Continue down into the forest and follow the base of the mountain round to the starting slabs and car park. More info https://www.narvikklatreklubb.no/uteklatring/tradisjonell-klatring/kuglhornet/ |
||||
Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Kuglhornet
Not all climbs at crag may appear in this book 64 users have this on their wishlist
Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents