Rockfax Description
6m. Enter the groove by frustrating moves and balance up it delicately. Pretty much all over after the first couple of moves, though oddly the starting moves would get 6a were they at the top! © Rockfax

FA. Andrew Woodward 1977

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, The Roaches Skyline 'E' challenge, Roaches HVS Challenge.

Hidden 08/Nov/17 Lead G/U
Hugobristol 29/Oct/17 Solo G/U

Used pads but definitely considered the top half of this as a solo rather than a boulder problem!

with Dave
Pippa 26/Oct/17 Solo dnf
with Tom
themattyshep 06/Oct/17 TR
Harryblake 06/Oct/17 TR
themattyshep 30/Aug/17 Solo rpt
themattyshep 24/Jul/17 Lead O/S
with Amy L
themattyshep 21/May/17 Lead O/S

Warmup for the day

with Theo
Quarryboy 07/May/17 Lead O/S
with Nottingham University climbing club, Alkis Tsapanidis, Elias Khoury
Gordon W 07/May/17 Lead O/S
Alkis 07/May/17 Lead β
Fraser hill-casey 07/May/17 Lead β
with Alkis
jimlear ??/2017 Lead β
Graeme Hammond 13/Nov/16 Solo rpt
Hidden 04/Nov/16 Lead dnf
Rob Gillespie 04/Nov/16 Solo
Rob Gillespie 31/Oct/16 Solo rpt
Dogwood 10/Sep/16 Lead G/U
Hillson 20/May/16 Solo β
lcullum7 12/Mar/16 Sent dnf
kyaizawa 12/Mar/16 Solo G/U
Wood for Trees 13/Feb/16 Sent rpt
with crew
Robin Nichols 19/Nov/15 Solo O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/15 Sent
Flavio 07/Jun/15 2nd β

Roaches HVS Challenge #28

MichaelGallimore 07/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Part of the Roaches HVS challenge. We got the silver medal, then it went dark on us after skyline. All routes attempted on-sight. Fun day! Thanks Dan and Flavio!

with Flavio
Chris_barr 10/May/15 Solo β
with Gus
Andy Peak 1 06/Apr/15 Lead O/S

Find the start hard

with Andrew Deckon
deacondeacon 06/Apr/15 Lead

Supersport on Andys gear

Tom McCabe 24/Mar/15 Lead G/U

Bouldered through the start after a couple of attempts, and unexpectedly found myself on the slab above so had a rope and some wires passed up. After that fairly pleasant.

with Rob Law, Joe Jones
JRJones 24/Mar/15 2nd
will9911 22/Mar/15 Lead O/S
with Tony Madden
dan_o_b ??/2015 Lead dnf
Will Hunt 06/Dec/14 Sent O/S
with The Nichols Roaches Gathering 2014, Conor Cussell, Gareth Uglow, Ben Finley, Bert Bridges
sam corbett ?/Dec/14 Solo
al123 03/Aug/14 Solo
with Henry
Stefan_Morris 18/May/14 Lead O/S
Ed morris 18/May/14 2nd O/S
with stefan
Cake 24/Apr/14 Lead rpt
with Matt
Duncan Campbell 22/Feb/14 Sent

Really hard (reachy) 1st move. Top groove is great and really steady. If you are tall first move is 5c but for shorties, maybe 6a?

ashtond6 22/Feb/14 Sent O/S

E1 without the wire

Hidden 22/Feb/14 Solo
nathanlee 22/Feb/14 Sent rpt
with Duncan Campbell, Rob Greenwood, Ben Norman, Emlyn James
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing 22/Feb/14 Solo
soph 22/Feb/14 Sent rpt
with Kook newstead
fennerz 22/Feb/14 Solo β
BenNorman 22/Feb/14 Solo O/S
Ed Booth 22/Feb/14 Solo β
with Duncan, Bubbles, Nathan Lee, Benno Wagner, Rob Greenwood, Fennerz
robertmctague ??/2014 Solo
sam corbett ??/2014 Solo
markalmack 29/Dec/13 Sent O/S
RM199 30/Nov/13 Lead dnf
Jonathan Hall 30/Nov/13 Solo
disturbed_one51 15/Oct/13 Solo

Climbed it by myself in the rain - what an idiot.

stvey 22/Sep/13 Sent x

Probably one of best climbs I have done! Felt great topping out after commiting to the top moves :-)

with Richard Cope
Dale ?/Sep/13 Solo O/S

Took me lots of attempts to get threw the roof had to dino. Was happy when I finally got to the top great route.

Ewano 22/Aug/13 Sent O/S

More like 5b.

Hidden 22/Aug/13 Sent
Rob Gillespie ?/Aug/13 Solo O/S
RichyBOYY 09/Jul/13 Solo

E1 i think... really good moves and pretty scary

Hidden 09/Jul/13 TR
PeteWilson 25/Jun/13 Solo

fell off soloing this a long time ago! committed to trying it again and it was easy! gotta be E1.

WillDoyle 01/Jun/13 Solo O/S
pipof747 10/May/13 Lead β
CSI Will 08/Apr/13 2nd rpt
Ky 08/Apr/13 Lead O/S
with Will Davies
Hidden 08/Apr/13 Lead
ianstevens 08/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 08/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Darcy Turner 05/Apr/13 Solo
Ky 04/Apr/13 TR O/S

While tied on to the working rope for jaws

with Stevie Hammond
Bloke on a Rope 21/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Matt
Climbster 21/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Ian
C coldwell-storry 17/Feb/13 Solo β
with rob lay
Andrew Jennings 02/Feb/13 Sent
with Dan Mcmanus, Andy Reeve
Mike W 12/Jan/13 Solo RP
Ky 09/Jan/13 Solo O/S
with Danny T
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 18/Nov/12 Lead β
danp 29/Sep/12 Solo
richiebongo 29/Sep/12 Solo O/S

What a line!

with Dan Perrot, Jon Didymus
Didymus 29/Sep/12 Solo O/S
Dan Geh 09/Aug/12 Solo O/S

Did the start dynamically, didn't feel too hard for 5c. Still a few precarious moves up the groove, probably E1 without a pile of mats and spotters.

Hidden 12/Jul/12 Sent dnf
Hidden 26/May/12 Lead O/S
Alistair Corbett 13/May/12 Solo

with pads

with Al
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Lead O/S
jacobjacob 26/Feb/12 Solo O/S
Hidden 26/Feb/12 Solo O/S
Ian Broome 14/Jan/12 Sent O/S
Matt Harle 30/Dec/11 Lead O/S
with Tom Pilgrim
jack1996 04/Dec/11 Solo

Got 2nd go as i bailed trying to whale up of the jug and crimp at start!

with tom s
mark20 30/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Cake 30/Nov/11 2nd β

No way HVS. Hard 5c move, then another tricky one after the gear. It took me 4 or 5 tries on the crux. Great route though

will randall 27/Nov/11 Lead O/S
masonwoods101 23/Oct/11 Solo O/S

the start ruins the last move which was fun

Hidden 15/Oct/11 Solo rpt
gingerwolf 01/Aug/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 12/Jul/11 Solo O/S
al123 11/Jun/11 Solo O/S

fun, deserves E1 i think as there isnt much gear to place and a 5a/b move left after the start.

galpinos 01/May/11 Sent x
with Sam
Hidden 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
CharlieMack 10/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with David, Rik Battye
rikbattye 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
shafiq lalloo 10/Apr/11 Lead dnf

Hard start!

nickwhimster 01/Apr/11 Lead O/S
ed woods 16/Mar/11 Lead β
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Solo rpt
Hidden 12/Feb/11 Solo dnf
James Oakes 29/Jan/11 Solo O/S
Ram MkiV 29/Jan/11 Solo O/S
with Guy & Oaks
Wood for Trees 29/Jan/11 Solo β

steve had gone first

with noaks and stephen
gaz.marshall 02/Jan/11 Sent x
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
ollie_e ??/2011 Solo O/S
with Loz
Hidden 23/Nov/10 Solo rpt
Souljah 14/Nov/10 Solo O/S

Great moves

with John, Tom, Adam
Mr Wild 14/Nov/10 Solo O/S
Richard Hall 24/Oct/10 Solo O/S
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 24/Oct/10 Solo rpt
with Rachel Briggs
thrutch 17/Oct/10 Lead O/S
with Sven
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead RP
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Solo
Ky 02/Oct/10 Lead dnf

caught the start but couldnt pull through as a bit too pumped. Powerful start!!

with Donk
nathanlee 25/Sep/10 Solo O/S
with Dom Lee
dominic lee 25/Sep/10 Solo rpt
donkster 22/Sep/10 Lead rpt
with pete buswell, crooko
tigertim 08/Sep/10 Solo
Simon_Letman 06/Sep/10 Solo
simeclimb68 01/Sep/10 Lead O/S
sgl0jd 01/Sep/10 2nd
Hidden 19/Jul/10 Solo RP
saalty 19/Jul/10 Solo RP
with colin
mark s 03/Jul/10 Solo
with andi t gus
smudge 26/May/10 Solo rpt
with Joe Shaw
jowgli 26/May/10 Solo O/S
with Dan Smith
Glyn Davidson 23/May/10 Solo dnf

Second time and found the right crimp to be useless. I found I had more power this year and latched the far left hold with ease but still couldn't move. Unfinished business!

lukehodson 01/May/10 Lead O/S

Great climbing, shame it's so short

Graeme Hammond 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S

found the start easy, thought the rock up on the pocket to reach the holds was the crux, Jools belayed and Lauren followed comically with the aid of a shoulder!

with Lauren Foster/Keeler
Hidden 14/Mar/10 Sent O/S
dmoir 12/Oct/09 Solo O/S
Lloyders 29/Aug/09 Solo RP
with Paddy
SGD 02/Aug/09 Lead

had to use a 'mobile climbing hold' for the start

Rob Davies 03/Jun/09 Solo dnf

As on previous attempts, unable to do the initial heave

grady ?/Jun/09 2nd
dannyboy83 11/May/09 Solo O/S
Glyn Davidson 10/May/09 Solo dnf

E1? Wouldn't this be better with a V grade? Beta: Tried going from the large pocket up to the high crimp on the left. Managed to consistently stick it but couldn't do anything from there. I'm told the way to do it is an easy reach to a crimp on the right which I hadn't noticed :S Next time! :)

with Osian
Hidden 10/May/09 Solo O/S
garburn 25/Apr/09 Solo O/S
jiles 11/Apr/09 Solo
Alex Winter 11/Apr/09 Solo O/S
NDD 04/Apr/09 Solo
cornishben 21/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Marc Elliot
MNA123 31/Jan/09 Solo

Done as a highball above mats.

northy1983 ??/2009 Solo

hvs more like i, but still goes for e1 in the guide

Hidden 25/Nov/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 25/Nov/08 Lead
Mike W 03/Nov/08 Lead O/S
with cat
mark s 17/Sep/08 Solo
Bristoldave 30/Aug/08 Solo O/S
Birdo 09/Feb/08 Solo O/S
Jon Read 12/Jan/08 Solo rpt
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
donkster 25/Oct/07 Lead O/S
with crooko
Jus 28/Sep/07 Solo
Jack Symmons 16/Sep/07 Lead
with Chris T
Hidden 09/Sep/07 Solo O/S
sam8oy 08/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with John
Somerset swede basher 10/Mar/07 Solo O/S
Jus 18/Feb/07 Lead O/S
mattyork2 05/Feb/07 Solo
Steve Banham 04/Feb/07 Solo rpt

It's aright. Just do it when it's dry

Ben1983 04/Feb/07 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/2007 -
Birdo ??/2007 -
with Dave Bird
John Sergeant ??/2007 -
Owen W-G 04/Nov/06 Solo O/S
with Robin
maffujones 23/Feb/06 Solo O/S
Hidden 29/Jan/06 TR O/S
Hidden 24/Sep/05 Lead
Laramadness 24/Apr/05 Solo
mark s ??/2005 Solo
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
SR1970 ?/Apr/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Feb/03 Solo RP
Andrew Abraham 16/Feb/03 Solo O/S
Hidden 15/Sep/02 Solo
Hidden 30/Jun/02 Solo
Hidden 12/May/02 Solo
Gus 03/Jul/01 Lead
Hidden ?/Jan/01 Solo
sadams 26/Feb/00 Solo
with John Boyle
tlr ??/2000 Solo
nige ??/2000 Solo
Dave Musgrove Jnr 20/Sep/98 Solo
with tim lowe
Hidden 20/Jul/98 Solo O/S
Hidden 22/Mar/98 Solo
smudge 14/Sep/97 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hidden 01/Sep/96 Solo
alan moore ??/1996 -

Quite shocked to get up a 5c move. Ultimate rock quality.

robtrooper ??/1996 -
ste_d 18/May/95 Solo O/S
nai ??/1995 Lead
D Tempest 09/Oct/94 Solo
with Rick
crossleysm ?/Aug/93 Solo O/S
The Reaper 14/Apr/93 TR O/S


OMSKB 24/Jun/91 Solo
channinga ??/1991 -
Rich Kirby 04/Nov/90 Solo
with Joanne Jowett
Roget 21/Apr/90 Solo O/S
Stoney Boy 11/Jun/88 Solo O/S
goi.ashmore 01/May/88 Solo β
goi.ashmore 01/May/88 Solo β
Michael Hood 08/Apr/88 Solo

Given E1 5c at the time.

Hidden 23/Jul/87 Solo
Bullybones ??/1987 -
Hidden ?/Sep/84 Lead
Hidden 21/Jul/84 Solo
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 46
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 56
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set