UKC

16m.

Rockfax Description
16m. A classic jamming crack. Gain the fissure awkwardly and follow it to its end. Finish up the exposed arete on the right - Flaky Wall Finish - or (more in keeping but less exciting) the thin crack on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Downes early 1950s.

Ticklists

The Roaches - Routes Graded List , Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs , ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List , Roaches HVS Challenge , The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza , Definitive *** Peak Grit , Wired Peak District Grit Graded List , Wired Peak District Grit (2020) *** List , Roaches Cracks , Off The Radar 300, Every Crag in The Peak , *** HVS on Peak Gritstone

Feedback

User Date Notes
Steve Pardoe 11 Sep, 2006 Show βeta
βeta: I agree the moves into the crack are hard for 4c (even for the second, as I was). Brilliant route, can't wait to do it again.
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βeta: I agree the moves into the crack are hard for 4c (even for the second, as I was). Brilliant route, can't wait to do it again.
Jon Greengrass 16 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Can't believe i never made a comment about this astounding route. Jam-tastic. I was also impressed by GingerKate's layback ascent on second.
βeta?
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βeta: Can't believe i never made a comment about this astounding route. Jam-tastic. I was also impressed by GingerKate's layback ascent on second.
Dave Emms 15 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: Superb, I thought the moves out to the arete at the top were amazing and contrasted well with the lower section, definitely the best way to finish the route!
βeta?
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βeta: Superb, I thought the moves out to the arete at the top were amazing and contrasted well with the lower section, definitely the best way to finish the route!
lithos 20 Oct, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: i think the move into the crack is prolly just 5a, but its great fun and very worthwhile
βeta?
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βeta: i think the move into the crack is prolly just 5a, but its great fun and very worthwhile
mark s 16 Feb, 2003 Show βeta
βeta: this is what climbing is about.superb.
βeta?
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βeta: this is what climbing is about.superb.

Logged Ascents

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 82
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 49
Votes cast 74
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Ground Up
Not Set
Route of Interest
The Thorn

Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Beeston Tor)

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