Rockfax Description
16m. A classic jamming crack. Gain the fissure awkwardly and follow it to its end. Finish up the exposed arete on the right - Flaky Wall Finish - or (more in keeping but less exciting) the thin crack on the left. © Rockfax

FA. Bob Downes early 1950s 1952

Ticklists: The Roaches - Routes Graded List, Steve Ashton's 100 Classic Gritstone Climbs, ROCKFAX Western Grit Grade List, Roaches HVS Challenge, The Roaches 3 Star Extravaganza, Definitive *** Peak Grit.

Ben1983 29/Oct/17 Lead O/S
Stotty_88 09/Jul/17 2nd
with gav
gavster 09/Jul/17 Lead
with Ad
Mr Wild 15/Jun/17 2nd rpt
with Rob Kinsey
Rob Kinsey 15/Jun/17 Lead O/S
with IanW
Rob Jarratt 23/May/17 Lead

Failed to lead 4 years ago, finally came back to do it tonight and it was fine. A bit awkward getting out of the niche, lovely jams above. Faffed a bit on the upper crack because I put in a runner in the best jam and had to move the runner.

with Tony Sawyer
L.miura 13/May/17 2nd β
with Mark Anstiss
Tim Rodgers 13/May/17 2nd
TJ Mather 23/Apr/17 TR dog

Tried on lead but couldn't commit, backed off and TRed

Joecartmell 23/Apr/17 TR

Tried leading on Toms gear, no chance! Definitely at least 5a!

with Tom
Neil McA 22/Apr/17 2nd rpt
with Jake McAdie
soph_klein 26/Mar/17 2nd dnf
Nick1812P 26/Mar/17 2nd O/S
with james
James Oakes 26/Mar/17 Lead O/S
jimlear ??/2017 Lead G/U
Hidden 02/Nov/16 Lead O/S
Graeme Hammond 02/Nov/16 2nd rpt

standard finish, forgotten what a great climb this is.

with Matt G
Melonfly ?/Nov/16 Lead
with Hugo
Robin Nichols 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S
with Roger
Martin Cooper 23/Oct/16 Lead O/S

R hand variant to arête at top.

with Stan
noah 22/Oct/16 Lead O/S

Rubberneck had a queue so tried this instead - excellent route, strenuous crack followed by a really good exposed finish up the arete

with P Swire
Hidden 02/Oct/16 Lead rpt
Andrew Abraham 02/Oct/16 Lead rpt
superturbo 25/Sep/16 2nd
James Smith 12/Jul/16 Lead O/S
with Tom C
Andrew Abraham 28/May/16 2nd
eduardo 15/May/16 Lead rpt

Still fairly thuggy but decent jams

with Rob Trz
HumphreyJ20 04/May/16 2nd O/S
Valentino 04/May/16 Lead O/S
with Jay
PeteWilson 17/Apr/16 Lead rpt
with Dave
Hidden ??/2016 Lead O/S
The Grist 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
steely 13/Oct/15 Lead O/S
owain-1978 13/Oct/15 2nd
Hidden 28/Sep/15 2nd rpt
mark4344 28/Sep/15 Lead
with Michel
Hidden 24/Sep/15 Lead O/S
bryce.dorin 24/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with Niels
tgeh 05/Sep/15 2nd O/S
with dan geh
Dan Geh 05/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Superb, bomber jams all the way

Andy Peak 1 02/Sep/15 Lead

Chased by the Rain, left hand finish, very very good climbing

with J Doors
riff156 23/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Alex Falconer
Nigel Bond 11/Aug/15 Lead
with Bern Hardman
R0bbie 09/Aug/15 2nd
with Taba
Hidden 31/Jul/15 2nd
bencole ?/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Dad
Hidden 21/Jun/15 2nd O/S
mapperley samurai 09/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Quality crack.

with Lewis Holmes
DanChad 03/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Pleased with how well I led this. No flailing at all.

Chris Murray 03/Jun/15 2nd

Probably 5b if you can't jam.

Bloke on a Rope 25/May/15 Lead O/S

Thought this felt stiff as a VS 4C warm up! Was defo warm after it though, bonus!

with Matt
Climbster 25/May/15 2nd β
with Vick, Ian
Rob Gillespie ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
KeenClimber 14/Mar/15 Lead dog

Cold! Couldn't feel my fingers!

with Jim
jimxxx 14/Mar/15 2nd
Mowglee 06/Dec/14 Lead O/S
with Sam Doyle
Paul ablitt 01/Nov/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Oct/14 2nd
Rafal Malczyk 28/Sep/14 2nd O/S
with Ian Pegg
SGD 24/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Hard! Vs? glad to see hvs on here but I thought it was 5b. Awkward to gain the crack and hard to leave it. Great gear and very strenuous.

Hidden 18/Jul/14 Lead dnf
rurp 08/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Nice jammin Flaky wall finish delightful and balancy

with bill farmer
littleduck 05/Jul/14 2nd
with Tony Madden
Hidden 28/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Lukem6 11/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Kev
Jim Slater 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Flakey Wall Finish.

friendzone1234 ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/May/14 2nd O/S
danJBA 19/May/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Brockwell
pipof747 05/May/14 Lead O/S
cem 03/May/14 Lead rpt
CrispsSmiths 03/May/14 2nd
with cem
Hidden 03/May/14 2nd
jimxxx ??/2014 -
Rob Gillespie ??/2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Nov/13 Lead O/S
Andrew Abraham 10/Nov/13 2nd
disturbed_one51 20/Oct/13 2nd

With flakey wall finish

with Wee man
Jonathan Hall 20/Oct/13 Lead

Really fun, plus did the arete finish, scary.

Hidden 14/Sep/13 Lead
rich_hw 14/Sep/13 Lead rpt
with James
Hidden 07/Sep/13 2nd dog
Ky 11/Jul/13 2nd O/S
with Wales
PeteWilson 10/Jul/13 2nd

I have never before been thrashed so hard by a VS! found this brutally hard

with Dave
Andrew Abraham ?/Jul/13 Lead

Another hard work VS, apparently I'm sill not that proficient at jamming!

with Ceara
augustus trout 25/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Hard for the tall ... good that!

with Stevie G
psborland 19/May/13 2nd
Rob Jarratt 05/May/13 TR

Failed to lead

with Andy Crawley
sgl0jd 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
mark4344 19/Apr/13 2nd
with Matt Payne
cheeky 19/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Calder 06/Apr/13 2nd
with Mark
Guy Wilson ??/2013 -
with Gavin Moy
Max Lowry ??/2013 -
RamblingRyan 14/Oct/12 Lead dnf
with Danny, Col
dannyboy83 11/Oct/12 Solo O/S
cem 22/Sep/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 22/Sep/12 2nd
Chriswallis2 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S
with Anna
stevethomas 01/Sep/12 Lead
with Heather
Allan Watson 01/Sep/12 2nd
with Andy Graham
jasonpm 21/Jul/12 Lead dog
with Steve IMC
Different Steve 21/Jul/12 2nd O/S
with Jason
Phil Layton 12/Jul/12 Lead dnf

Put a cam right in the way of where I needed to hand jam. Should have left it where I first put it in (just above the jam I was hanging from)rather than reaching up.

with simon
Phil Layton 12/Jul/12 2nd β

Much easier seconding.

with simon
simeclimb68 12/Jul/12 Lead O/S
WillDoyle 29/May/12 Lead dnf
Hidden 27/May/12 2nd
Hidden 27/May/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/May/12 Lead
Hidden 20/May/12 2nd
Alex@home 02/May/12 2nd O/S

would be good value at VS. not much easier than rubberneck i thought. really good though

with The Doctor
woody8 05/Apr/12 2nd
Andrew Sandercock 01/Apr/12 Lead O/S

Steady as 'owt, pretty soft or maybe just well suited. Utterly brilliant either way.

with robert sandercock
Matt Harle 01/Apr/12 Lead rpt
Hidden 26/Mar/12 -
Mike Parks 25/Mar/12 TR dog
with Paul
Alex Winter 10/Mar/12 Lead rpt
Pete Graham 05/Mar/12 Lead
with Howard Lawledge
Jim Malo 03/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Dave W, Barry
fatbuoybazza 03/Mar/12 Lead O/S
with jim, daveyw
Hidden 25/Feb/12 2nd
Hidden 19/Feb/12 Lead dnf
Hidden ??/2012 -
Big Lee 13/Nov/11 2nd dog

Back to jamming school...

LJKing 13/Nov/11 Lead O/S
AlexRenshaw 06/Nov/11 2nd
with Ted Lister, Thomas Renshaw
David Kay 13/Sep/11 Lead β

Already clipped into Rachel's gear just below the main crack, wussed out on the exposed arete (it was blowing a hoolie!) and opted for the solid finger crack.

with Mynydd C.C.
Dave Rumney 04/Sep/11 -
with Tanya Milner
Stoney Boy 07/Aug/11 2nd O/S
with Nick Conway
Hidden 25/Jul/11 Lead O/S
bigdrew 13/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Rich R
Graeme Hammond 18/Jun/11 Lead rpt

standard finish this time

Marvino 12/Jun/11 Lead

Flaky wall finish. Brilliant route. A battle with the crack, though the crux was easier than it looked, then a lovely delicate, exposed finish.

with Martin
Hidden 11/Jun/11 2nd
pord 11/Jun/11 2nd β
with Gary Cooper, Justin
clive-greenwood 21/May/11 Lead O/S
with Dave Clarke
Dave Mahon ?/May/11 Lead

Rob had some fun on this one! I think a bled quite a bit after the jamming...

with Rob Munday
Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Ed Booth 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with matt pardy, Alec Thomas
Amy Kilpin 23/Apr/11 2nd
tatz45 19/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with Wes Inskip
Dizz 17/Apr/11 2nd
with max
minirollsrule 03/Apr/11 2nd dog

started to lead but backed off at crux, was the first lead of the day and a bit out of my reach head games wise, technically i did it. had a bit of a rest on the rope

with matt reynolds
Killianmurphy 02/Apr/11 2nd β

tried to lead, couldnt commit to crux

andybirtwistle ?/Apr/11 Lead
keith Lonsdale ?/Apr/11 2nd dnf
Rob Davies 14/Mar/11 Lead

Looks as if it ought to be straightforward, but isn'r

with Phil Ashton
hilty 30/Jan/11 Lead O/S
PAJames ??/2011 -
buxtoncoffeelover ?/Dec/10 2nd
Graeme Hammond 21/Nov/10 Lead O/S

Flaky Wall Finish, very cold but excellent climbing

Hidden 21/Sep/10 2nd rpt
tri-nitro-tuolumne 21/Sep/10 Lead O/S
with Rich Guest
tigertim 08/Sep/10 Lead O/S
Alex Winter 08/Sep/10 2nd O/S
Alistair Corbett 24/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with ben peake
matt.jj ?/Jun/10 2nd
Dave Mahon ?/Jun/10 Lead

Hard going! 'only' 4c, but feels much harder if your jamming isn't up to scratch.

chrisallan 09/May/10 Lead dnf
bigbobbyking 09/May/10 Lead dnf

hard as nails! Both me and Chris failed to lead!

with Chris Allan
Swotson 11/Apr/10 Lead O/S

Great route - excellent jamming. And I didn't arrive exhausted at the ledge:-)

with Tony Madden
jkarran 03/Apr/10 Lead

Good. Easier once the jugs out left were pointed out!

with Grant
mattyork2 03/Apr/10 Lead O/S
GrantB 03/Apr/10 2nd
with James
Hidden ?/Apr/10 2nd
Rowansb 21/Mar/10 2nd O/S
CharlieMack 11/Mar/10 Lead O/S
Boy 04/Mar/10 -
with Si Wilson
rikbattye ?/Mar/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 27/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 23/Aug/09 Lead
Hidden 09/May/09 2nd
donkster 15/Apr/09 Lead rpt
with dennis
keith leonard ??/2009 -
Hidden 23/Aug/08 Lead O/S
AndyM-LVB 28/Jun/08 Lead dnf

Got half way up, but not used to jamming so couldn't see how to do the upper section!

with Brendan Ferguson
richardhopton 10/Jun/08 Lead dog
with Matt Thombs
The Bad Cough 07/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with Lee Bonner
Hidden 31/May/08 Lead O/S
mark4344 30/May/08 2nd
with michel schonewille
Si dH 07/May/08 2nd O/S

Good jamming. Bit awkward ot get going i nthe crack - probably 5a? Neil avoided the to phalf of the crack on lead due to not liking the jams - he did the left hand variant.

with Neil Furniss
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 TR
daveagriff ??/2008 Lead
Ian Parnell 24/Oct/07 2nd O/S
with Jon Winter
cem 06/Oct/07 2nd
with David T, Rob Truckle
Jus 30/Sep/07 Lead O/S
runestone 08/Sep/07 2nd
with Mike B
dan gibson 12/Aug/07 Lead rpt
galpinos 01/Apr/07 2nd O/S
with John
Bob Peters ??/2007 Lead dog

Jamming initiation in the worst possible style, as you might expect from an avowed culm slab climber

with Dad
eduardo ??/2007 Lead O/S

Approx 2007? Good climb, quite physical

with Sylvain
Hidden 12/Nov/06 Lead
dan gibson 17/Sep/06 Lead rpt
with helen gibson
Stig 07/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Charlie Reade-Jahn
Steve Pardoe 24/Aug/06 2nd

Excellent, crack is hard at 4c

with Arnaud Garcon, Goi Ashmore
ArnaudG 24/Aug/06 2nd
with Goi
goi.ashmore 18/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with Arnaud Garcon, Steve Pardoe
feilx 29/Jul/06 Solo O/S
dan gibson 02/Jun/06 Solo O/S
MazElden ??/2006 -
John Lisle ??/2006 -
chrishedgehog 27/Oct/05 Lead O/S
with Mark Gill
John Southworth ?/Sep/05 Lead O/S
with Vicky Munn
just one more 04/Aug/05 2nd
with chris nunn
M_W_Court 02/Jul/05 Lead O/S
Smelly Fox 02/May/05 Lead O/S
with Rob Clifton
Gus ??/2005 Lead
Jon Read ??/2005 Lead O/S
with Debs
aulda 04/Sep/04 Lead O/S
with Dave R
andybirtwistle 12/Aug/04 Lead O/S
with Sue Birtwistle
donkster ?/Aug/04 2nd O/S
with dennis
ASchwirtz 18/Jul/04 TR O/S
with Shona D'arcy
shoulders 06/Mar/04 Lead
with nathan
Coel Hellier ??/2004 Lead
lithos 18/Oct/03 Lead
Hidden ?/Oct/03 Lead O/S
RobSimmo ?/May/03 Lead O/S
kato'sdad ?/May/03 2nd
runestone 05/Apr/03 Lead
with Blod
mark s ??/2003 Solo O/S
Chesh ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Daz
Hidden 15/Aug/02 Lead
Hidden 07/Jul/02 Lead
Hidden 11/May/02 Lead O/S
DubyaJamesDubya ??/2002 Lead O/S
with Martin Flint
Bullybones ??/2002 -
runestone 21/Jul/01 Lead
with Blod
runestone 06/May/00 Lead
Chris Murray 26/Apr/98 Lead
with Richard Bower
Martin Bennett 27/Oct/97 -
with Cec
Hidden 03/May/97 Lead O/S
craig h 15/Mar/97 Lead O/S
with Paul Braithwaite
Hidden ??/1997 Lead dog
D Tempest 06/Jul/96 2nd
with Rick
EddieA 06/May/96 2nd
with Mark
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 20/Jul/95 2nd
with Drew
IanGilbertJones 13/Mar/95 Solo
Hidden 05/Jul/92 2nd
Hidden 16/May/92 2nd β
Roget 14/May/92 Solo rpt

With Flaky wall finish.

nai ??/1992 Lead
dodders 30/Aug/91 -
with Dick Hargreaves
Andy Say 20/Aug/91 Solo
Gordon Stainforth 24/Mar/91 2nd
with Brad Jackson
Andy Fielding ??/1991 2nd
with Mark Lardner
sadams 31/Aug/90 2nd
with Mark Bonham
tapley 24/Sep/89 Lead
with Ian Avis
babymoac 01/Sep/89 Lead
with Chris B, Kev B Sid et al.
Dave Musgrove 07/May/89 Lead O/S
with Paul Dawson, Kim Greenald
Hidden 12/Jun/87 Lead
Hidden 26/May/87 2nd O/S
charlesmfrench 13/Apr/84 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Apr/82 Lead
duncan ?/Sep/79 Lead O/S
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High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 64
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 30
Votes cast 57
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set