Roof climbing from the start by way of fig 4's and lock offs. Start is located on left side of cave following crack line upto first lip, then moving up into stein pull. Crux is located at overlap between first and second roof sections. Finish at chain lower-off.

Matt Pritchard 2009


ClimberDateStyle
climber34neil 09/Oct Lead rpt

More laps for training

Misha 08/Oct Lead rpt

Warm down to get totally boxed! Hard work after three goes on the SB extension project but wasn't going to drop it.

with Eszter
climber34neil 03/Oct Lead rpt

As training for MG

climber34neil 11/Sep Lead rpt

Repeat ascent as training for MG

Misha 10/Sep Lead rpt

Was just going to go up to replace the krab and maillon over the first lip but felt fine so decided to carry on. Went back up straight away on TR (what a pain, leading much better!) to sort out the kit. Then after doing SL finished the day with another lap on lead. SB earlier in the day as well. Not too bad for the first day of the seaso but felt it afterwards, though not exactly wiped out.

with Eszter
climber34neil 24/Jul Lead RP

Session 8 , did it first go today, happy days!

climber34neil 18/Jul Lead dnf

7th session, fell one move from end

climber34neil 17/Jul Lead dnf

6th session on route, fell two moves from glory! So close today

climber34neil 10/Jul Lead dog

5th session, should have got it today, thought I was in a hold then turned out I wasn't!

climber34neil 20/Jun Lead dog

4th session on this, first time on section after stein pull, last section easier than start

climber34neil 12/Jun Lead dnf

3rd session on this, link to move before stein, some draws need replacing as gates won't open, will change them next time

climber34neil 24/Apr Lead dnf

Second session, first proper try, lead clean through first roof

climber34neil 06/Apr Lead dnf

First go on it, 6th clip stuck open and needs replacing, will replace next time there

patsaunders ?/Apr TR dnf
Misha 02/Jan Lead rpt

Hardest I've had to try on this for a while, with lots of shakeouts - due to doing it soon after SG so was a bit boxed.

with Phil
philhilo 02/Jan Lead dnf

Another couple of goes. Got one move further clean than last time, second hold over the lip but forgot about 1/2 in placement . 2 more moves and its a rest.......grrrrrr.

with misha
Misha 27/Dec/16 Lead rpt

At the end of the day after two goes on MG, with 4s/9s to the lip to demonstrate the sequence. Also warm up bolt to bolt to replace a missing draw and mark the holds.

with Andy W, Phil
philhilo 27/Dec/16 Lead dog

Blimey, after making about a move and half last year, managed to dog it to the top once, and did the roof clean the second go. It might just go.......dreamin!

with Andy W, misha
Andrew Wilson 27/Dec/16 Lead dnf
with Misha
Hidden 21/Dec/16 Lead dnf
MSchobitz 12/Nov/16 Lead dnf
Adam Willison 26/Dec/15 Lead RP
Andy Peak 1 16/Dec/15 Lead dnf

Only to the 5th clip, heal hooking axes no crampons

Hidden 07/Dec/15 Lead β
olorin ?/May/15 Lead β
Misha 08/Mar/15 Lead dog

Sort of a warm up for Substantial Losses. Had a rest on the move across - the usual difficulty in extracting the left axe whilst having off a 9 on the right. Then carried on to the end, almost slipped off taking out the stein (careless) but held it. Not that hard with a rest but certainly got me warm!

Hidden 25/Jan/15 Lead dnf
Misha 04/Jan/15 Lead RP

Yes! First go the flow through the roof was disrupted by the rope catching on the crampons whilst in a fig 4 and wasn't fully warmed up anyway so had a rest before the span out right, then in one go to the end. Second go did it! The hardest for me is still controlling the swing and hanging on after doing the span out right and taking out the left axe. The rest is just a case of hanging on an milking the non-rests. Now the for next project...

with Greg, Matt
Mr Wild 24/Dec/14 Lead G/U
simonward 24/Dec/14 Lead RP

good route, took a bit of working.

Misha 20/Dec/14 Lead dog

Two goes, getting there - down to one rest.

Misha 14/Dec/14 Lead dog

First time on this, two goes. First go got to the end of the initial roof clean, bolt to bolt after that. Hard sequence going right and up to the stein pull, the rest is stamina but on the whole nothing I can't do, so should be just a matter of time. Second go top roped by headtorch, again had a few rests. Unclipping was harder than clipping on lead!

with Eszter
Viki Claudia Harvey 16/Nov/14 Lead

Finally got this, always tricky getting the stein over the lip, but lovely route all in all.

with Ramon Marin
Ramon Marin 15/Nov/14 Lead β
with viki harvey
Ramon Marin 01/Nov/14 Lead rpt

did it 4 times clean over the weekend as a start for Marginal Gains

with viki harvey
Harry Holmes 05/Jan/14 Lead RP

2nd attempt

with Andy Turner
Ramon Marin 28/Sep/13 Lead RP

did it again yesterday for training and to do marginal gains. Much better route now without the bolt on holds at the start. Soft for M10

with viki harvey
mux 28/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Not really onsight .Andy pointed out all the holds

with Andy Turner
maybe_si 11/Sep/12 Lead RP
Ramon Marin 13/Mar/11 Lead RP

Send on the second go

with Matt Pritchard
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Voting
High M10+
Mid M10+
Low M10+
High M10
Mid M10
Low M10
High M9+
Mid M9+
Low M9+
High M9
Mid M9
Low M9
Votes cast 3
Votes cast 1
Style of ascent
Lead
Toproped
DNF
Redpoint
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Onsighted
Ground Up
Not Set