Rockfax Description
The left-hand arete of the cave leads to a block, move right above the lip to the steep grass above the cave. Climb direct up a corner to a tree, then escape rightwards or finish as for Pickering Ridge. © Rockfax

FA. John Flemming, Tom Carruthers 1978

Reaver2k 21/Mar/09 2nd O/S

Scary as! Watched Tom wobble up it, followed only to find all the rock is very loose! Some pretty awkward moves but probably slightly off-route and only VS, but a scary one because of the rock quality. Almost killed a dog when a rock came off - despite me being extemely careful - carried on up to Tom's belay, a tree, which wobbled. No way we could abb off it. So I "led" through, ran out probably 7m up a grassy slippery slope trying to keep hands on feet on as much rock as possible. Lowered another 7m of rope down to collect some micronuts, a lot of run out rope with a poor belay! Banged in some awful micronuts and carried on creeping up the slope, another awful nut. Got to the top of the pinnicle... bugger, no belay. Looked around all the edges cacking myself about what I was going to do now I'm on top of a pinnicle. Saw some tat so lowered myself down on my belly. A slightly scary belay, 3 rusty bolts, and a rusty nut which was loose until yanked in place and a poor thread. All joined together with some precarious looking cord and very odd almost overhand like knots joining them. Scary, brought Tom up, thought about our position whilst enjoying the view. Decided to abb off, at which point we had kind of convinced ourselves it would be sound, I went first, and was glad to see the floor! Some nice looking rock on that side of the buttress.. maybe one day.

thomasadixon 21/Mar/09 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch (sort of, probably off line) and finished up the arete. Loose, vegetated, scary...definately memorable.

with Alan
Hidden ?/Jul/80 AltLd
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c