3700m.

Rockfax Description
III, 9.5km 6 - 8 hours. A true Chamonix classic which sees surprisingly little traffic, probably because of the amount of walking required at both the start and finish of the route. It is well worth the effort though for the views and solitude in Himalayan-esque surroundings. Spending two nights in the Refuge des Conscrits and climbing Mont Tondu one day and this route the next day is a superb use of a few sunny summer days.
Approach - Leave the Refuge des Conscrits and head northeast towards the Aiguille de la Bérangère, taking the line of least resistance. Everyone seems to take a different route here, so simply pick the best way. The approach time given is the time taken to get from the refuge to the summit of the Bérangère.
1) Climb the final slope just below the summit of the Aiguille de la Bérangère. This steepens considerably to around 35 degrees and then easy scrambling leads to the summit.
2) From the top of the Bérangère, descend the thin and exposed ridge leading north - this is much easier under a good cover of firm snow. If dry this will involve some rocky scrambling on occasionally loose blocks. In good conditions it should take roughly half an hour from the top of the Bérangère to reach the Col de la Bérangère which is a good viewpoint for the Tré la Tête peaks and the Glacier d'Armancette, which drops away steeply to the north.
3) Continue east and climb the snow slopes on the left of the ridge leading to Point 3670m. Follow the easy but exposed ridge in a spectacular position over Points 3666m and 3633m before dropping down to the Col des Dômes. It is possible to descend from here without tagging Point 3673m, but seeing as it can be reached without technical difficulty and is the highest of all the Dômes, it seems a shame not to nip up it before coming back to the Col des Dômes and descending.
Descent - Walk down easily to reach the Glacier de Tré la Tête and follow this on its right-hand side back down to the Refuge des Conscrits. There is some crevasse danger on the descent, particularly in the first kilometre or so. © Rockfax

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UserDateNotes
edprince 25 Jun Show βeta
βeta: Quicker and easier to get to the Conscrits Refuge from the valley via the glacier, not on the higher path. Doing the route west to east allows early glacier travel
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Quicker and easier to get to the Conscrits Refuge from the valley via the glacier, not on the higher path. Doing the route west to east allows early glacier travel
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
steve_gibbs 9 Jul AltLd O/S
with Michael
with Michael
James Rigby 29 Jun AltLd O/S Royal Traverse
Royal Traverse
Rowern 27 Jun AltLd O/S
edprince 24 Jun Lead Staggering route, low on technical difficulty, but plenty of exposure and stunning scenery. Set off from the hut at 4:30am and back by 12:00pm, did from West to east.
Staggering route, low on technical difficulty, but plenty of exposure and stunning scenery. Set off from the hut at 4:30am and back by 12:00pm, did from West to east.
Hidden 24 Jun -
BexSmith 23 Jun AltLd
with edprince, Isaac Wheatley, Tim Ford
with edprince, Isaac Wheatley, Tim Ford
Tim Ford 23 Jun AltLd A very long two days, we took 7 hours hiking in as we went for the path above the valley after the first hut rather than straight up to the glacier. Bivvied outside of the hut woke up at 3:30 to start the route, it took s 8 hours but we all loved every minute of it, amazing views and a good amount of exposure. Got a bowl of hot chocolate at the hut then spent 5 hours hiking out. An amazing adventure but hard as well, ached for three days afterwards. Highly recommended
with BexSmith, Isaac Wheatley
A very long two days, we took 7 hours hiking in as we went for the path above the valley after the first hut rather than straight up to the glacier. Bivvied outside of the hut woke up at 3:30 to start the route, it took s 8 hours but we all loved every minute of it, amazing views and a good amount of exposure. Got a bowl of hot chocolate at the hut then spent 5 hours hiking out. An amazing adventure but hard as well, ached for three days afterwards. Highly recommended
with BexSmith, Isaac Wheatley
jaamez 19 Jun -
with michaelmurray, Matthew Myerscough
with michaelmurray, Matthew Myerscough
ndraper1 17 Sep, 2018 AltLd
Hidden 9 Aug, 2018 Solo O/S
sn 13 Jul, 2018 - Went west to east. Excellent cloudless day. Descent of glacier OK as the snow was still pretty firm.
with Ady, Denise
Went west to east. Excellent cloudless day. Descent of glacier OK as the snow was still pretty firm.
with Ady, Denise
Pero 12 Jul, 2018 - Easy conditions. Didn't rope up. One short abseil in descent to the Durier hut.
Easy conditions. Didn't rope up. One short abseil in descent to the Durier hut.
ACT 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with Peter N
with Peter N
pnordberg 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd
with ACT
with ACT
Ian.ch 9 Jul, 2018 - To the durier hut, first (completed) alpine route. A memorable day.
with Imanol
To the durier hut, first (completed) alpine route. A memorable day.
with Imanol
Al_Mac 28 Jun, 2018 -
Gemmazrobo 28 Jun, 2018 AltLd
with Al_Mac
with Al_Mac
BexSmith 25 Jun, 2018 Solo dnf Give the walkin to the hut a whole day. It’s a brutal walk!
Give the walkin to the hut a whole day. It’s a brutal walk!
tomchitson 25 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Incredible day. Left the hut just after 4 am and back by 11 am going at a leisurely pace. Wonderful route and lovely hut.
Incredible day. Left the hut just after 4 am and back by 11 am going at a leisurely pace. Wonderful route and lovely hut.
Hagen 25 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with BF Kurs
with BF Kurs
Hidden 25 Jun, 2018 Solo
kitbehard 25 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Incredible route! Best I've ever done and the views along the ridge were insane. I found it pretty challenging and felt faint pretty much since the ascent.
Incredible route! Best I've ever done and the views along the ridge were insane. I found it pretty challenging and felt faint pretty much since the ascent.
K Mckay 22 Aug, 2017 AltLd O/S
with Paul Gibbison
with Paul Gibbison
bc44caesar 22 Jul, 2017 -
Rob Exile Ward 3 Jul, 2017 AltLd Good conditions and a great day - as the guide book says, very quiet indeed. The ridge is seriously scary!
with George
Good conditions and a great day - as the guide book says, very quiet indeed. The ridge is seriously scary!
with George
Hidden 1 May, 2017 AltLd dnf
mysterion 13 Sep, 2016 Solo Acclimatisation for Mont Blanc, out to Dome 3670m then return same way (ie: no glacier travel). Snow furrowed like deeply ploughed field by thunderstorm overnight, slow going on snowfield below Aiguille de la Berangere, Domes beyond in similar condition so stopped at Berangere. End of weather window for a week so no Mont Blanc either :(
Acclimatisation for Mont Blanc, out to Dome 3670m then return same way (ie: no glacier travel). Snow furrowed like deeply ploughed field by thunderstorm overnight, slow going on snowfield below Aiguille de la Berangere, Domes beyond in similar condition so stopped at Berangere. End of weather window for a week so no Mont Blanc either :(
Hoyes 2 Aug, 2016 Solo O/S From Refuge des Conscrits, over Aiguille de la Bérangère and Dômes de Miage to Durier Hut.
From Refuge des Conscrits, over Aiguille de la Bérangère and Dômes de Miage to Durier Hut.
Lumbering Oaf 2 Aug, 2016 Solo rpt Did traverse to get to the Durier Hut for an attempt at the Aig. Du Bionnassy. Took in the third and highest of the three peaks this time around.
with Hoyes, Batt
Did traverse to get to the Durier Hut for an attempt at the Aig. Du Bionnassy. Took in the third and highest of the three peaks this time around.
with Hoyes, Batt
Hidden 28 Jul, 2016 -
Hidden 28 Jul, 2016 Solo O/S
Jules Lane 25 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Great expedition. New route to the hut along the left side of the glacier is longer and involves negotiating 4 gorges, the last one via a new and impressive suspension bridge. This was damaged by a landslide the day before our visit and was being repaired but still crossable - just. Did the traverse the opposite way to this description. Totally epic along the ridge! The scramble over the Aiguille de Berangere was not mentioned in our guidebook and came as something of a surprise. Then walked all the way back to the car, making for a monster 15 hour day.
with Mark, Mynydd Paul Justin
Great expedition. New route to the hut along the left side of the glacier is longer and involves negotiating 4 gorges, the last one via a new and impressive suspension bridge. This was damaged by a landslide the day before our visit and was being repaired but still crossable - just. Did the traverse the opposite way to this description. Totally epic along the ridge! The scramble over the Aiguille de Berangere was not mentioned in our guidebook and came as something of a surprise. Then walked all the way back to the car, making for a monster 15 hour day.
with Mark, Mynydd Paul Justin
Michael 25 Jul, 2016 -
Hidden 28 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 28 Jun, 2016 AltLd
Mike Roger ??, 2016 -
Lumbering Oaf 15 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S Took in the Dome de Miage and the Aig. B. - very good route and well worth a visit. Had a brown trouser moment on the col between the two when we triggered an slab avalanche!
Took in the Dome de Miage and the Aig. B. - very good route and well worth a visit. Had a brown trouser moment on the col between the two when we triggered an slab avalanche!
Lumbering Oaf 14 Sep, 2015 Lead
Chimnastics 14 Sep, 2015 2nd O/S Great ridge traverse, with sharp, snow knife-edged ridge, followed by an easy rocky ridge up to Aiguille de Berangere. Did almost trigger an avalanche before reaching the rocky ridge though, not fun!
with Francois Le Savre, Lumbering Oaf
Great ridge traverse, with sharp, snow knife-edged ridge, followed by an easy rocky ridge up to Aiguille de Berangere. Did almost trigger an avalanche before reaching the rocky ridge though, not fun!
with Francois Le Savre, Lumbering Oaf
gallonj 25 Aug, 2015 -
MarinaKrijgsman 28 Jul, 2015 AltLd
with Anniek Verschuur, Flo Vogel, ijsbeer
with Anniek Verschuur, Flo Vogel, ijsbeer
ijsbeer 28 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S Flo Vogel (ASAC), Marina Krijgsman (ASAC), Anniek Verschuur (NijSAC), Vincent de Munck (NijSAC)
Flo Vogel (ASAC), Marina Krijgsman (ASAC), Anniek Verschuur (NijSAC), Vincent de Munck (NijSAC)
JezzaCat 14 Jul, 2015 -
Stella Baylis 14 Jul, 2015 -
olekemi 1 Jul, 2015 Solo O/S Including the Aiguille de la Berangere, this is an excellent outing.
with Ken B, Martin F
Including the Aiguille de la Berangere, this is an excellent outing.
with Ken B, Martin F
rosieposey14 30 Jun, 2015 -
Hidden 26 Jun, 2015 -
Hidden 21 Jun, 2015 Solo
robthered 27 Aug, 2014 -
robthered 27 Aug, 2014 -
Danbow73 17 Jul, 2014 -
Jack Whiteley 26 Jun, 2014 Lead With Alex and Chris. Stayed in the conscruit hut, lots of descent after ridge.
with alexpre
With Alex and Chris. Stayed in the conscruit hut, lots of descent after ridge.
with alexpre
Hidden 26 Jun, 2014 -
Jonny Nick 11 Apr, 2014 - First ever ski tour
First ever ski tour
Hidden 11 Apr, 2014 -
Hidden 2 Apr, 2014 Solo O/S
Steve Wakeford 11 Mar, 2014 -
with Christina Olander, Arnaud Gasser, Arnot, Bj?rn Ingason, Martin Grann?s Br?nnstr?m, Hinrik Olason
with Christina Olander, Arnaud Gasser, Arnot, Bj?rn Ingason, Martin Grann?s Br?nnstr?m, Hinrik Olason
James Thacker 4 Sep, 2013 -
Hidden 4 Sep, 2013 2nd
Hidden 2 Sep, 2013 Solo O/S
jimmatthews 2 Sep, 2013 Solo O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2013 -
Remyveness ?Aug, 2013 -
cayteye ?Aug, 2013 - With Club Alpine France
With Club Alpine France
Hidden 10 Jul, 2013 -
Si ?Feb, 2013 Solo On skis. Traverse; descend Amancette glacier
with JV, beckycoles, Si L
On skis. Traverse; descend Amancette glacier
with JV, beckycoles, Si L
Sebastien Gastaud 20 Aug, 2012 Lead
theotherpetehill 8 Aug, 2012 AltLd O/S Traverse of Aig de Berangere and Domes de Miage to bivvy by Durier hut
with Patrick Timoney, Caroline Culwick
Traverse of Aig de Berangere and Domes de Miage to bivvy by Durier hut
with Patrick Timoney, Caroline Culwick
Hidden 8 Aug, 2012 -
Hidden 2 Aug, 2012 -
Sankey 18 Jul, 2012 - Full traverse via col de Infranchisable
with Ed
Full traverse via col de Infranchisable
with Ed
Hidden 17 Jul, 2012 -
Finn Curry 7 Jul, 2012 Lead A beautiful route to do - and not too crowded.
with Tom Williams
A beautiful route to do - and not too crowded.
with Tom Williams
solfreak 4 Jul, 2012 Solo
Nigel Bond 29 Jun, 2012 Solo
with Bern Hardman
with Bern Hardman
Nigel Bond 29 Jun, 2012 Solo
with Bern Hardman
with Bern Hardman
jac00 9 Aug, 2011 -
tomtom89 9 Aug, 2011 -
with jac00
with jac00
paulmck ?Aug, 2011 -
sara n 6 Jul, 2011 2nd From Refuge de Conscrit to Refuge Durier.
with Pierre Bogino, Karl Blanchet
From Refuge de Conscrit to Refuge Durier.
with Pierre Bogino, Karl Blanchet
Tim Sparrow ?Jul, 2011 - What fun! Descent to Aig Berangere a bit icy.
with Geoff Thomas
What fun! Descent to Aig Berangere a bit icy.
with Geoff Thomas
Hidden ??, 2011 -
James W 26 Jul, 2010 - unacclimitised, durier ridge, traverse and very long walk down
unacclimitised, durier ridge, traverse and very long walk down
amthalmann 8 Jul, 2010 -
with Barney
with Barney
hamish2016 14 Apr, 2010 - Ski tour. Descent by Armencette glacier. Awesome powder.
with chris burn
Ski tour. Descent by Armencette glacier. Awesome powder.
with chris burn
Hidden ??, 2010 -
MaccMark 3 Jul, 2009 -
with Victoria Moorhouse, Mat Ouillion, Si Brown
with Victoria Moorhouse, Mat Ouillion, Si Brown
paulh.0776 ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with Nigel Black
with Nigel Black
garethsteel ?Sep, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?Sep, 2008 -
Hidden ?Sep, 2008 Lead
JimBee 3 Jul, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Stefano Guide
with Stefano Guide
chrissloan84 ?Jul, 2007 -
industrialiceman 17 Jun, 2007 Lead
benclimbing ?Aug, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Gareth Steel
with Gareth Steel
Hidden 17 Jul, 2006 Solo
Hidden ?Jul, 2006 AltLd
Jerry67 ?Jul, 2006 -
lukehunt ?Aug, 2004 -
Tarquin ??, 2003 -
Hidden 12 Aug, 2001 -
andybuckley ?Jul, 1998 AltLd
with Hilary Macmillan
with Hilary Macmillan
Hidden 23 Aug, 1990 Solo
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