Restricted Access
The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 March to 30 June
Reason: Nesting Birds
- Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.
- Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.
Rockfax Description
A wandering classic, taking a long diagonal line and giving strenuous but well-protected climbing with good rests.
1) 5a, 25m. From a large tree in the gully, trend left to reach the base of the crack (junction with George) then climb it as it leans over. Traverse right and climb up to a stance with some fixed gear.
2) 5a, 8m. Continue in the same line and then move up past the old yew tree to a fixed belay on tree above. It is possible to keep traversing rightwards and the first section is good but it rapidly deteriorates and descent becomes tricky although you might be able to get to a solid young tree. © Rockfax
FA. Pete (Trog) WIlliams, John (who peeled) Amies 1964.
Ticklists
Classic Rock Climbs In Northern England by Bill Birket , World Graded List , Peak Rock/10/White Life , Ultimate HVS ticklist , Definitive *** Peak Lime , On Peak Rock , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Limestone Trad
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Green_t | 29 Apr, 2023 |
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βeta: Fixed belay at end of p1 and ab tat at the top both in very poor condition. Lots of loose rock around ab. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Fixed belay at end of p1 and ab tat at the top both in very poor condition. Lots of loose rock around ab. |
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| Steve Pickersgill | 13 Jul, 2021 |
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βeta: Loose material at top. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Loose material at top. |
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| Annaproffitt | 10 Jun, 2021 |
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βeta: Second pitch seems silly- doesn’t add to the route particulate but avoids big rope drag that would happen! Fixed belay gear is all in good condition | βeta? | |
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βeta: Second pitch seems silly- doesn’t add to the route particulate but avoids big rope drag that would happen! Fixed belay gear is all in good condition |
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| Tom Green | 15 May, 2021 |
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βeta: Cleared the bigger loose blocks from between the dead stump and the abseil tree. Still a bit chossy but nothing too big on that section now. | βeta? | |
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βeta: Cleared the bigger loose blocks from between the dead stump and the abseil tree. Still a bit chossy but nothing too big on that section now. |
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| SP | 20 Jul, 2020 |
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βeta: Copied below is a note that is relevant to those wishing to lower off the tree above the old yew tree (as for Yew Tree Wall). "As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving." | βeta? | |
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Show beta
βeta: Copied below is a note that is relevant to those wishing to lower off the tree above the old yew tree (as for Yew Tree Wall). "As noted below, the area around the old yew tree is unstable, it seems that there is a lot of material in there that could come out with relatively little persuasion. It is possible to cross this to the anchor at the tree above, but a lot of care needed- there are several large blocks that are moving." |
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| Chris the Tall | 16 Jul, 2005 |
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βeta: Doing it in the traditional 3 pitch style gets a bit tedious after the yew tree | βeta? | |
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βeta: Doing it in the traditional 3 pitch style gets a bit tedious after the yew tree |
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| Blinder | 13 May, 2005 |
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βeta: brilliant route, staring up Geogre gives a harder but cleaner climbing. | βeta? | |
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βeta: brilliant route, staring up Geogre gives a harder but cleaner climbing. |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dovedale
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Great Crack
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Duke's Quarry)