28m.

Rockfax Description
A magnificent line, great for aficionados of slippery limestone fist-jamming. Follow the crack-line throughout. The main difficulties are concentrated in passing the lip of the biggest roof. Marks will be deducted for shoddy style, use of knees and any squealing. © Rockfax

FA. Steve Read, Roy Leeming, D.Carnell, P.Brown, S.Hunt 1956 Done with 1 pt by Leeming in 1965

Ticklists

Definitive *** Peak Lime

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Login as Existing User to add your feedback

Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 1 Jun 2nd O/S
Graeme Hammond 16 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Butch brilliant roof climb on good jams, rest is fairly easy jamming above (and below) with a good rest after the hard bit + after the 2nd roof. Currently top crack through the grass is very clean and pleasant with good gear. Unseconded.
Butch brilliant roof climb on good jams, rest is fairly easy jamming above (and below) with a good rest after the hard bit + after the 2nd roof. Currently top crack through the grass is very clean and pleasant with good gear. Unseconded.
Ssebo 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S
with Tim
with Tim
Hidden 15 Jul, 2018 2nd
SteveCloss 3 Jul, 2018 2nd
Neil McA 9 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S Nice to second. Burly roof but big holds come when it matters. Jamming gloves help. Talk of fist jams is a lie - its all hands.
with Andrew James
Nice to second. Burly roof but big holds come when it matters. Jamming gloves help. Talk of fist jams is a lie - its all hands.
with Andrew James
ferdia 7 Jul, 2017 2nd jesus
with burto
jesus
with burto
deacondeacon 17 Jul, 2016 Lead O/S Hard work but there are holds up there. The next roof is quite tricky too (although not as bad as the main event).
Hard work but there are holds up there. The next roof is quite tricky too (although not as bad as the main event).
Hannes B 30 Aug, 2015 2nd
with Aidan
with Aidan
Misha 12 Jun, 2014 2nd O/S What an adventure! Wade across deep ford (didn't find the weir on way in), jungle bash to the crag, at the crag just after 7pm, warm up on Anaconda. 9pm by the time Phil started this, lots of flailing around on the roof as dusk encroached but he got up it eventually to top out at 10.15pm in fading light. Couldn't hear anything due to the river, ropes a bit jammed, had to really about for Phil to take in. Brilliant crack climbing, three stars despite the easy start and a bit of grass to finish (less than on Anaconda though). Going through the roof is well hard, top end E3 5c, above and below is E1-E2 5b jamming. E2 is a sandbag for sure and I don't usually upgrade routes! Roof - jug, jam, jam for dead life, so-so jug, crucial knee bar with a high right foot, shake out, get the pointy spike thing with the right had to find it's a bit rubbish and not very pointy, get left foot up, breathe! All by head torch - fun! Then the abseil descent, wade out across the weir with sticks for balance and walk out, back at the car park just after midnight and home just after 2am! Save a red or yellow BD cam for the best belay gear. The abseil is a the other end I the pinnacle and needs new tat - 8 foot sling or better still take 5 - 10 metres of rope. Should have thought to bring.
What an adventure! Wade across deep ford (didn't find the weir on way in), jungle bash to the crag, at the crag just after 7pm, warm up on Anaconda. 9pm by the time Phil started this, lots of flailing around on the roof as dusk encroached but he got up it eventually to top out at 10.15pm in fading light. Couldn't hear anything due to the river, ropes a bit jammed, had to really about for Phil to take in. Brilliant crack climbing, three stars despite the easy start and a bit of grass to finish (less than on Anaconda though). Going through the roof is well hard, top end E3 5c, above and below is E1-E2 5b jamming. E2 is a sandbag for sure and I don't usually upgrade routes! Roof - jug, jam, jam for dead life, so-so jug, crucial knee bar with a high right foot, shake out, get the pointy spike thing with the right had to find it's a bit rubbish and not very pointy, get left foot up, breathe! All by head torch - fun! Then the abseil descent, wade out across the weir with sticks for balance and walk out, back at the car park just after midnight and home just after 2am! Save a red or yellow BD cam for the best belay gear. The abseil is a the other end I the pinnacle and needs new tat - 8 foot sling or better still take 5 - 10 metres of rope. Should have thought to bring.
philhilo 12 Jun, 2014 Lead dog Jeepers, that was hard graft. Took many attempts to finally get over the roof. Move up, cam, try, fall off, haul up try, fall off cam comes out, repeat! Plenty of 5b above and below the roof. Bring all your big cams - its a 5-10cm crack all the way. Misha followed by moonlight. Waded in via ford and nettles, waded out in the dark, finally on the path at 00.06....home 02.17! Ace fun.
with Misha
Jeepers, that was hard graft. Took many attempts to finally get over the roof. Move up, cam, try, fall off, haul up try, fall off cam comes out, repeat! Plenty of 5b above and below the roof. Bring all your big cams - its a 5-10cm crack all the way. Misha followed by moonlight. Waded in via ford and nettles, waded out in the dark, finally on the path at 00.06....home 02.17! Ace fun.
with Misha
Hannes B 27 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S Fuck yeah! with tape on..
with Danny
Fuck yeah! with tape on..
with Danny
Alex@home 22 May, 2012 2nd dog power failure on the crux. took a few goes but got there in the end. felt very strenuous for 5c but i suppose the holds are big enough
with The Doctor
power failure on the crux. took a few goes but got there in the end. felt very strenuous for 5c but i suppose the holds are big enough
with The Doctor
Dave Turnbull, BMC 22 May, 2012 2nd
with Dominic Oughton
with Dominic Oughton
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Si Witcher 5 Sep, 2010 Lead O/S Great climb. There's no fist-jamming on it, but hand-jamming and then burly jug-hauling to stand up above the roof. Take all your hexes and big cams.
with James
Great climb. There's no fist-jamming on it, but hand-jamming and then burly jug-hauling to stand up above the roof. Take all your hexes and big cams.
with James
Seymore Butt ??, 2010 Lead
Hidden ??, 2010 Lead
Brown 22 Aug, 2009 2nd O/S
porridgefan 27 Jun, 2009 Lead dnf
with Niall Francis
with Niall Francis
andi turner ?Apr, 2007 Lead O/S
with Martin Dearden
with Martin Dearden
nickdonohue ?Jun, 2004 Lead
with Jim Barradale
with Jim Barradale
nickcanute ?May, 2001 Lead
Mike_d78 1 Jun, 1998 2nd O/S Got a Friend 3 stuck in the roof crack, grrrr
with ste_d
Got a Friend 3 stuck in the roof crack, grrrr
with ste_d
ste_d 1 Jun, 1998 Lead O/S
Roget 27 Jun, 1993 Lead O/S
with jon
with jon
ajtay ??, 1992 -
uphillnow 14 May, 1991 Lead
with Mark Gray
with Mark Gray
Andy Edgar ??, 1990 Lead O/S
with Hugh Woodland
with Hugh Woodland
Hidden 14 Aug, 1988 2nd β
Hidden ??, 1985 Lead
Gezzer ??, 1983 Lead O/S
with Merv Dudley
with Merv Dudley
10 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 8
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 8
Votes cast 7
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set