UKC

Restricted Access

The BMC has an agreement with the National Trust for fixed equipment in the dale. Put simply this is that like for like maintenance/replacement can take place as and when is needed but placement of new bolts would require agreement through the Peak Area meeting followed by approaching the National Trust for permission. There isn't a presumption of refusal by any means, but the National Trust understandably want to keep track of bolting activity in the Dale and in some cases they may need to apply for SSSI consent as landowner. The National Trust are extremely supportive of climbing in all it's forms in the Dale and it's important that we continue to cultivate our good relationship with them to ensure our needs as climbers are considered into the future. 

Seasonal Restrictions

Dates: 1 March to 30 June

Reason: Nesting Birds

-  Tissington Spires - please avoid all routes on South Gully Buttress (Zulu Dawn to Amoeba inclusive) during the restriction period.

-  Ravens Tor - due to the nest location the whole crag is to be avoided for the restriction period.

30m.

Rockfax Description
A good climb that snakes about less than you might be expecting. Bridge and jam the long groove up to the overhang then pass this with difficulty to gain the continuation corner. Continue up the crack, eventually stepping right to finish on the grassy crest. There are abseil anchors up there, honest. © Rockfax

FA. Roy Leeming (1pt aid) 1965.

Ticklists

Peak Rock/10/White Life , Chris Jackson’s 100 Classic Limestone Climbs , Peak District Pinnacles

Feedback

There is no feedback for this climb.

Logged Ascents

79 users have logged this

Guidebooks for Dovedale

Not all climbs appear in all guidebooks 24 users have this on their wishlist

Please Login to view more details on the logged ascents

Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 20
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 20
Votes cast 18
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Repeated
Not Set
Route of Interest
Dark Continent

Grade: E1 5c ***
(Stanage Popular)

Loading Notifications...