Rockfax Description
Airy climbing featuring a runout wall and a tricky crux. Start at an area of easy-angled water-washed ledges.
1) 9m. Climb easily up sloping ledges to a long grassy ledge and block-belay on the left.
2) 5a, 22m. From the block, move up slightly left to a thin right-slanting flake-crack. Climb this to its end and then climb the bold wall above to below an overlap with twin pegs on the right. Move right past the pegs and make a tricky move up onto a ledge, 'The Balcony'. A couple of steep moves on good holds gain the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
A rising traverse to the right arete of the orange slab to the right of the Fortress. 2 pitches but they can be run together although beware of rope drag.

P1: 4b
Begin on the left side of the easy gully (often wet) about 3m right of the start of Traitor's Gate. Scramble up over blocks and grassy ledges to reach a large grassy ledge at the base of the orange slab. Belay on a large boulder.

P2: 5a
Move left along the belay ledge to gain the beginning of the Left to Right diagonal weakness (small wires) and follow to the right arete. Climb the face to a large block on the arete (wires above) and then up and left to gain 2 old pegs (back 'em up). Mantle (tricky when wet) into the niche on the right ands then pull through the bulge above to gain easy ground and the top. Belay on the fence posts.

Variation - P2: 5b
From the two pegs pull up left and then climb through the bulges above.

Ticklists

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Hidden 21 Jun Lead rpt
climbdevon 25 May -
Hidden 19 Apr Lead O/S
ADJ85 19 Apr 2nd Middle of 2nd pitch is super runout, potential ground fall, not sure I would want to lead it as newer HVS leader. Climbing is excellent though.
with Adj
Middle of 2nd pitch is super runout, potential ground fall, not sure I would want to lead it as newer HVS leader. Climbing is excellent though.
with Adj
Hidden 18 Nov, 2018 Lead G/U
Hidden 18 Nov, 2018 2nd O/S
Hidden 21 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Matt Smith 21 Aug, 2018 AltLd O/S
Dexter JW 14 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S Direct 5b finish.
with Jack
Direct 5b finish.
with Jack
Hidden ??, 2018 -
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 Lead rpt
Hidden 23 Jul, 2016 2nd O/S
Outdoor Dave 6 Jun, 2016 AltLd
with Paul
with Paul
Kiwinutz 6 Jun, 2016 AltLd rpt Lovely climb
with Dave Lucas
Lovely climb
with Dave Lucas
Einriba ??, 2016 TR O/S
Jelly Mould Surfer 18 Oct, 2015 2nd O/S Fairly straight forward except the crux, which was a bit nails
Fairly straight forward except the crux, which was a bit nails
Tom Seccombe 31 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
with Tom Marshal
with Tom Marshal
Hidden 10 Jul, 2015 Lead O/S
Kiwinutz 14 Apr, 2015 TR O/S The 5a move onto the balcony is tough. The rest of p2 is very enjoyable.
with Dave Lucas
The 5a move onto the balcony is tough. The rest of p2 is very enjoyable.
with Dave Lucas
Outdoor Dave 2 Mar, 2015 TR O/S
with Paul
with Paul
phil lewis 16 Oct, 2014 TR O/S
rubywaterfield 25 Sep, 2014 TR O/S
dannibunt 25 Sep, 2014 TR O/S
Hidden 30 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Jul, 2013 2nd rpt
Hidden 24 Jun, 2013 2nd
Hidden ?Jun, 2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 29 Sep, 2012 Solo rpt
Mark Kemball 18 Sep, 2012 Lead
with Fiend
with Fiend
Hidden 6 Sep, 2012 Solo rpt
Hidden 26 Aug, 2012 Lead O/S
SurfingRock 24 Jun, 2012 TR
Hidden 7 Apr, 2012 2nd O/S
jack 9895 27 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
Robin Hall 2 Mar, 2012 TR O/S
Spearos 1 Mar, 2012 2nd O/S
with Mike
with Mike
climbhannahclimb 2 Oct, 2011 TR
with Sam Burton
with Sam Burton
pete3685 30 Aug, 2011 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Jul, 2011 2nd
Frostie 30 Jul, 2011 Lead
DCIGadget 15 Jun, 2011 TR O/S top route thanks chris
with David Coley, mike reading, Chris Ebbutt
top route thanks chris
with David Coley, mike reading, Chris Ebbutt
Chris Ebbutt 15 Jun, 2011 Lead
with Mike
with Mike
nickdonohue ?Jun, 2011 2nd
with Chris Ebbutt
with Chris Ebbutt
Pricey06 ?Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden ??, 2011 Lead
Paragonthewise 9 Sep, 2010 2nd great climb, was the last of our 2 days at the cheesering, Rad had been wanting to to it for a while, i have not done many hvs 5a's but i gave it a go, fairly easy going up till the crux, took a while but got over eventually
great climb, was the last of our 2 days at the cheesering, Rad had been wanting to to it for a while, i have not done many hvs 5a's but i gave it a go, fairly easy going up till the crux, took a while but got over eventually
minexplorer 9 Sep, 2010 Lead easy but careful climbing due to run out.crux well tricky but well protected.gives a great sense of satisfaction
with grant newcombe
easy but careful climbing due to run out.crux well tricky but well protected.gives a great sense of satisfaction
with grant newcombe
mike hooper 4 Sep, 2010 AltLd O/S top section after the peg.treverse right WOW what a move made me twitch..:)
with robin frazer
top section after the peg.treverse right WOW what a move made me twitch..:)
with robin frazer
Hidden 3 Sep, 2010 2nd
minexplorer 17 Aug, 2010 TR self belay with grigri.a bit runout in middle(good holds tho)well protected crux was satisfying sussing the 5a moves.lookin fward to leading.
self belay with grigri.a bit runout in middle(good holds tho)well protected crux was satisfying sussing the 5a moves.lookin fward to leading.
Hidden 9 Jun, 2010 2nd rpt
JonHarvey 9 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S Nice route, good holds all the way with a nice little crux move near the top :-)
Nice route, good holds all the way with a nice little crux move near the top :-)
mackem 10 May, 2010 - top rope solo last move is quite tricky
top rope solo last move is quite tricky
Hidden 10 May, 2010 Lead
Hidden ??, 2010 -
Hidden 27 Sep, 2009 2nd O/S
Hidden 27 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S
culmclimberRob 25 Sep, 2009 Lead O/S great route!!!
great route!!!
rockferret 2 May, 2009 Lead rpt
with Phil and Pedro
with Phil and Pedro
pedro.silva 2 May, 2009 2nd O/S
with Martin B, Phil
with Martin B, Phil
Phil79 2 May, 2009 2nd O/S
with Pedro & Rockferret
with Pedro & Rockferret
rockferret 20 Sep, 2008 2nd O/S
with Pete
with Pete
Hidden 20 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S
Hidden 18 Jun, 2008 2nd rpt
trev_f 2 Sep, 2007 TR O/S
with Martin
with Martin
Marti999 2 Sep, 2007 2nd O/S
with Tom Thorp
with Tom Thorp
Hidden ??, 2006 -
Hidden ??, 2000 -
Frostie ?Jun, 1999 Lead
with Adrain Turner
with Adrain Turner
Hidden 18 Jun, 1986 2nd
D Tempest ?Mar, 1978 AltLd
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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 13
High 5b
Mid 5b
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High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 13
Votes cast 12
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Alt Leads
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Ground Up
Not Set