Rockfax Description
E3. A magnificent route up the Arete, which has lots of fixed gear of variable quality. A few nuts and threads are helpful to plug the gaps, or back-up the rust!
1) 3, 15m. As for El Dorado.
2) 6a+, 35m. From the sloping ledge, move right, then carefully down-climb to gain a low traverse-line. Follow this awkwardly, staying just above the water (difficult to protect) until it is possible to climb diagonally upwards (don't climb up too soon) to a scoop which leads to the hanging stance on the Arete.
3) 6b+, 45m. Power up the Arete above, first on the left, then on the right. From the diagonal break, either traverse left to gain the grassy ramp and abseil point, or:
4) 5a, 40m. Climb up the rib above to the top. © Rockfax
Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes , ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50 , Costa blanca 2022 , Wishlist of climbs.
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Gambit | 1 Feb, 2020 |
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βeta: Not sure about the giudebook description for pitch 2. My partner had climbed 7B the day before and fell trying to take the low route to the belay. I tried this way and could not do it and then tried the middle way before ending up on the higher line at about 20ft above the sea. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Not sure about the giudebook description for pitch 2. My partner had climbed 7B the day before and fell trying to take the low route to the belay. I tried this way and could not do it and then tried the middle way before ending up on the higher line at about 20ft above the sea. |
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Chad123 | 24 Apr, 2006 |
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βeta: Great route, but both pitches can feel very hard when humid and slippy. The bolts on the arete and the nasty tat don't inspire confidence . Great position though and even the traverse pitch has it's moments! | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: Great route, but both pitches can feel very hard when humid and slippy. The bolts on the arete and the nasty tat don't inspire confidence . Great position though and even the traverse pitch has it's moments! |
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Dnmn | 11 Feb, 2005 |
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βeta: the arete pitches into and out of the cave on luces nocturnas variation had reasonable fixed pro for the full length, though the bolts weren't 'new'. | βeta? | |
Show beta
βeta: the arete pitches into and out of the cave on luces nocturnas variation had reasonable fixed pro for the full length, though the bolts weren't 'new'. |
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Grade: 6b+ ***
(Olta)