130m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E3. A magnificent route up the Arete, which has lots of fixed gear of variable quality. A few nuts and threads are helpful to plug the gaps, or back-up the rust!
1) 3, 15m. As for El Dorado.
2) 6a+, 35m. From the sloping ledge, move right, then carefully down-climb to gain a low traverse-line. Follow this awkwardly, staying just above the water (difficult to protect) until it is possible to climb diagonally upwards (don't climb up too soon) to a scoop which leads to the hanging stance on the Arete.
3) 6b+, 45m. Power up the Arete above, first on the left, then on the right. From the diagonal break, either traverse left to gain the grassy ramp and abseil point, or:
4) 5, 40m. Climb up the rib above to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
Teappleby 19/Feb AltLd O/S

Boom. Genuinely enjoyed myself near the sea on a rope for possibly the first time. One of the best pitches I've ever done, jugs and exposure all the way!

Wendy Watthews 31/Dec/16 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb, great position on the arete, Beni only placed 3 nuts and two cams so must have had more trust in the rusting bolts and ageing tat.

with Beni
beni 31/Dec/16 Lead
shaunhumphreys 07/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Bolts are a bit rusty but probably bomber and lots of tat/ threads felt like E3 pump more than 6b+ pump by the end! And felt traddy enough! Amazing positions on the arête!

Hidden 07/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
LRob 27/Jan/16 Lead
HansStuttgart ?/Jan/16 -

very good route! Failed on the traverse a couple of years ago. This year tried it a few meter higher, once you find the right line, it is OK. The arete is really brilliant climbing

onlyfoddington 20/Dec/15 2nd dog

I was really pleased I managed to complete the initial traverse and with the effort I gave on the crux pitch. In truth I was not close to being able to cope with the sustained overhanging pitch.

with Michael
pearson9596 20/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jan/15 AltLd rpt
Stoney Boy 03/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Pitch 2

with Nick Conway
Nickc ?/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Lunar25 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Dave LE
Hidden 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
JBO 17/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Too many bolts on the second pitch to be E3 but the first pitch was serious enough, brilliant route though.

elCapitano 18/Dec/11 2nd

Climbed as a 3 on twin icelines. Pitch 1 and 3 onsight. Clipped into several bolts to rest on Pitch 2.

with Patch, Coatesy
elCapitano 18/Dec/11 Solo rpt

Shallow water solo of pitch 1. Continued to belay for pitch 2 and jumped off. Class, but not safe at the start.

with Patch
Richard P Coates 18/Dec/11 2nd dog
with Patch, ianjfsutcliffe
Glyn 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Sun sea and sending..

with Jonny
Hidden 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 12/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/04 AltLd dnf
Mark Riley ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Stuart Greenall
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 30/May/98 AltLd dog
Bulls Crack ??/1996 Lead O/S

Years ago but remember it being nowhere near as good as it looked. You can climb just about anywhere right of the arete I seem to remember.

with AM
Pedro50 ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Will Hurford
Hidden 28/Jan/95 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Jan/93 -
with Ali W
dominic lee 27/Mar/90 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Had a minor epic abseiling back to the beach...

with Dad
clark alston ?/Jan/89 AltLd O/S

After Gomez Cano on the Penon. Unsurprisingly finished in the dark. Mega day.

with Nick White
8 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set