130m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E3. A magnificent route up the Arete, which has lots of fixed gear of variable quality. A few nuts and threads are helpful to plug the gaps, or back-up the rust!
1) 3, 15m. As for El Dorado.
2) 6a+, 35m. From the sloping ledge, move right, then carefully down-climb to gain a low traverse-line. Follow this awkwardly, staying just above the water (difficult to protect) until it is possible to climb diagonally upwards (don't climb up too soon) to a scoop which leads to the hanging stance on the Arete.
3) 6b+, 45m. Power up the Arete above, first on the left, then on the right. From the diagonal break, either traverse left to gain the grassy ramp and abseil point, or:
4) 5, 40m. Climb up the rib above to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50.

Stoney Boy 12/Jan AltLd rpt
with Nick Weicht
Hidden 02/Jan AltLd dog
rachelpearce01 06/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

I led the 6a+ traverse but with the sun shining I missed the correct line and stayed far too low and had to make a belay at a thread. Was very greasy down low but then the top pitch was one of the best bits of climbing I've done. Sustained and steep but with monster holds. Bolts were a bit rusty looking but had plenty of threads in between. The traverse felt the most sketchy and run out.

George_Surf 06/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Incredible route! I led p1, the easy traverse past a couple of old bolts. A few rocks flew past as a team made the mistake of abseiling down El Dorado and then pulled their ropes in to the sea! Rachel embarked on the 6a+ traverse and got midway but couldn’t work out where to go so clipped in to a thread. The rockfax line and description is wrong. Drop down and traverse the break until it ends. Then climb up a few metres and continue before dropping down to the arête and climbing it to the bolt belay. Total of 3 bolts, a peg and 2 threads in this 35m pitch, swimming is a constant possibility! I led the 6b+ pitch up the arête. Amazing climbing in an exposed position. Some bolts are rusty, and sometimes they run out. I placed a couple of wires and 5 threads, steep but on big holds all the way with a sit down rest at 2/3 height. Not exactly e3 but the traverse was pretty serious. Well worth doing, all you need is a single set of wires and some 60cm slings. Do it with the sun on it otherwise it could be greasy

morageagleson 26/Nov/17 AltLd dog
Hidden 26/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Teappleby 19/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Boom. Genuinely enjoyed myself near the sea on a rope for possibly the first time. One of the best pitches I've ever done, jugs and exposure all the way!

Wendy Watthews 31/Dec/16 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb, great position on the arete, Beni only placed 3 nuts and two cams so must have had more trust in the rusting bolts and ageing tat.

with Beni
beni 31/Dec/16 Lead
shaunhumphreys 07/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Bolts are a bit rusty but probably bomber and lots of tat/ threads felt like E3 pump more than 6b+ pump by the end! And felt traddy enough! Amazing positions on the arête!

Hidden 07/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
LRob 27/Jan/16 Lead
HansStuttgart ?/Jan/16 -

very good route! Failed on the traverse a couple of years ago. This year tried it a few meter higher, once you find the right line, it is OK. The arete is really brilliant climbing

onlyfoddington 20/Dec/15 2nd dog

I was really pleased I managed to complete the initial traverse and with the effort I gave on the crux pitch. In truth I was not close to being able to cope with the sustained overhanging pitch.

with Michael
pearson9596 20/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jan/15 AltLd rpt
Stoney Boy 03/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Pitch 2

with Nick Conway
Nickc ?/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Lunar25 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Dave LE
Hidden 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
JBO 17/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Too many bolts on the second pitch to be E3 but the first pitch was serious enough, brilliant route though.

elCapitano 18/Dec/11 2nd

Climbed as a 3 on twin icelines. Pitch 1 and 3 onsight. Clipped into several bolts to rest on Pitch 2.

with Patch, Coatesy
elCapitano 18/Dec/11 Solo rpt

Shallow water solo of pitch 1. Continued to belay for pitch 2 and jumped off. Class, but not safe at the start.

with Patch
Richard P Coates 18/Dec/11 2nd dog
with Patch, ianjfsutcliffe
Glyn 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Sun sea and sending..

with Jonny
Hidden 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 12/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/04 AltLd dnf
Mark Riley ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Stuart Greenall
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 30/May/98 AltLd dog
Bulls Crack ??/1996 Lead O/S

Years ago but remember it being nowhere near as good as it looked. You can climb just about anywhere right of the arete I seem to remember.

with AM
Pedro50 ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Will Hurford
Hidden 28/Jan/95 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Jan/93 -
with Ali W
pete johnson 16/Feb/92 Lead O/S
with Andy Blakely
tmawer ??/1992 AltLd O/S

Paul wasn't too thrilled when he realised neither Andy or I are competent swimmers. Led pitch 3

with Paul, Andy Taylor
Hidden 14/Dec/90 Lead
dominic lee 27/Mar/90 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Had a minor epic abseiling back to the beach...

with Dad
clark alston ?/Jan/89 AltLd O/S

After Gomez Cano on the Penon. Unsurprisingly finished in the dark. Mega day.

with Nick White
12 users have this on their wishlist
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b+
Mid 6b+
Low 6b+
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
Votes cast 5
Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set