UKC

130m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
E3. A magnificent route up the Arete, which has lots of fixed gear of variable quality. A few nuts and threads are helpful to plug the gaps, or back-up the rust!
1) 3, 15m. As for El Dorado.
2) 6a+, 35m. From the sloping ledge, move right, then carefully down-climb to gain a low traverse-line. Follow this awkwardly, staying just above the water (difficult to protect) until it is possible to climb diagonally upwards (don't climb up too soon) to a scoop which leads to the hanging stance on the Arete.
3) 6b+, 45m. Power up the Arete above, first on the left, then on the right. From the diagonal break, either traverse left to gain the grassy ramp and abseil point, or:
4) 5, 40m. Climb up the rib above to the top. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Costa Blanca "Must Do" routes, ROCKFAX Costa Blanca: Top 50.


ClimberDateStyle
Stoney Boy 12/Jan AltLd rpt
with Nick Weicht
Hidden 02/Jan AltLd dog
rachelpearce01 06/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

I led the 6a+ traverse but with the sun shining I missed the correct line and stayed far too low and had to make a belay at a thread. Was very greasy down low but then the top pitch was one of the best bits of climbing I've done. Sustained and steep but with monster holds. Bolts were a bit rusty looking but had plenty of threads in between. The traverse felt the most sketchy and run out.

George_Surf 06/Dec/17 AltLd O/S

Incredible route! I led p1, the easy traverse past a couple of old bolts. A few rocks flew past as a team made the mistake of abseiling down El Dorado and then pulled their ropes in to the sea! Rachel embarked on the 6a+ traverse and got midway but couldn’t work out where to go so clipped in to a thread. The rockfax line and description is wrong. Drop down and traverse the break until it ends. Then climb up a few metres and continue before dropping down to the arête and climbing it to the bolt belay. Total of 3 bolts, a peg and 2 threads in this 35m pitch, swimming is a constant possibility! I led the 6b+ pitch up the arête. Amazing climbing in an exposed position. Some bolts are rusty, and sometimes they run out. I placed a couple of wires and 5 threads, steep but on big holds all the way with a sit down rest at 2/3 height. Not exactly e3 but the traverse was pretty serious. Well worth doing, all you need is a single set of wires and some 60cm slings. Do it with the sun on it otherwise it could be greasy

morageagleson 26/Nov/17 AltLd dog
Hidden 26/Nov/17 Lead O/S
Teappleby 19/Feb/17 AltLd O/S

Boom. Genuinely enjoyed myself near the sea on a rope for possibly the first time. One of the best pitches I've ever done, jugs and exposure all the way!

Wendy Watthews 31/Dec/16 2nd O/S

Fantastic climb, great position on the arete, Beni only placed 3 nuts and two cams so must have had more trust in the rusting bolts and ageing tat.

with Beni
beni 31/Dec/16 Lead
shaunhumphreys 07/Dec/16 AltLd O/S

Bolts are a bit rusty but probably bomber and lots of tat/ threads felt like E3 pump more than 6b+ pump by the end! And felt traddy enough! Amazing positions on the arête!

Hidden 07/Dec/16 AltLd O/S
LRob 27/Jan/16 Lead
HansStuttgart ?/Jan/16 -

very good route! Failed on the traverse a couple of years ago. This year tried it a few meter higher, once you find the right line, it is OK. The arete is really brilliant climbing

onlyfoddington 20/Dec/15 2nd dog

I was really pleased I managed to complete the initial traverse and with the effort I gave on the crux pitch. In truth I was not close to being able to cope with the sustained overhanging pitch.

with Michael
pearson9596 20/Dec/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Jan/15 AltLd rpt
Stoney Boy 03/Dec/14 Lead O/S

Pitch 2

with Nick Conway
Nickc ?/Dec/14 Lead O/S
Lunar25 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
with Dave LE
Hidden 22/Dec/13 AltLd O/S
JBO 17/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Too many bolts on the second pitch to be E3 but the first pitch was serious enough, brilliant route though.

elCapitano 18/Dec/11 2nd

Climbed as a 3 on twin icelines. Pitch 1 and 3 onsight. Clipped into several bolts to rest on Pitch 2.

with Patch, Coatesy
elCapitano 18/Dec/11 Solo rpt

Shallow water solo of pitch 1. Continued to belay for pitch 2 and jumped off. Class, but not safe at the start.

with Patch
Richard P Coates 18/Dec/11 2nd dog
with Patch, ianjfsutcliffe
Glyn 22/Mar/11 Lead O/S

Sun sea and sending..

with Jonny
Hidden 21/Mar/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2010 -
Hidden 12/Dec/07 Lead O/S
Hidden 24/Feb/06 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Feb/04 AltLd dnf
Mark Riley ?/Mar/03 Lead O/S
with Stuart Greenall
Hidden ??/2003 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench 30/May/98 AltLd dog
Bulls Crack ??/1996 Lead O/S

Years ago but remember it being nowhere near as good as it looked. You can climb just about anywhere right of the arete I seem to remember.

with AM
Pedro50 ??/1996 Lead O/S
with Will Hurford
Hidden 28/Jan/95 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Jan/93 -
with Ali W
pete johnson 16/Feb/92 Lead O/S
with Andy Blakely
tmawer ??/1992 AltLd O/S

Paul wasn't too thrilled when he realised neither Andy or I are competent swimmers. Led pitch 3

with Paul, Andy Taylor
Hidden 14/Dec/90 Lead
dominic lee 27/Mar/90 Lead O/S

Brilliant. Had a minor epic abseiling back to the beach...

with Dad
clark alston ?/Jan/89 AltLd O/S

After Gomez Cano on the Penon. Unsurprisingly finished in the dark. Mega day.

with Nick White
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Votes cast 6
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Soloed
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Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
DNF
Not Set