135m, 5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
Once the longest fully bolted sport route in the UK, but now surpassed by its neighbours to the right. It is still a great adventure from the very bottom to the top of the Quarryman Wall.
1) 6b, 30m. Climb the slab in the corner with some bridging. From the ninth bolt, carefully traverse right avoiding the scree ledge to a bolt belay.
2) 7a, 30m. The crack and flake-line are easy to start, but have a hard move over a bulge near the top to a ledge. Bolt belay.
3) 6b, 30m. Climb the slab/wall to a ledge at the foot of a short groove and possible belay ledge (two bolts). Continue up the arete past three bolts to the 'Matilda' ledge. Bolt belay.
4) 7b+, 25m. A beginners' Quarryman groove leads to a bolt belay below Wonderful World...
5) 7b, 20m. Belay a few feet further right. Take the flake and crack system up the attractive bulging wall. The thin crack doesn't take fingers very well. The crux is either a high step up right or left - take your pick. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Once the longest fully bolted sport route in the UK now the 4th longest to 'Tan y Ddraig' still a great adventure from the very bottom of Twll Mawr to the Top of the Quarryman wall.

Pitch 1 (30m)F6b Climbs the Slab in the corner with some bridging. Clip the high 9th bolt and carefully traverse right avoiding the scree ledge to a double bolt belay.
Pitch 2 (30m)F7a Takes the obvious crack and flake line, easy to start, with a hard move over a bulge near the top to a ledge and double bolt belay where Opening Gambit used to cross.
Pitch 3 (30m)F6b The slab / wall to a ledge at the foot of a short groove and possible belay ledge (2 bolts) continue up the arete past 3 bolts taking you to the 'Matilda Ledge' double bolt belay.
Pitch 4 (25m)F7b+ The immaculate green groove above beckons. A beginners Quarryman groove. 2 bolt belay below Wonderful World of Walt Disney.
Pitch 5 (20m)F7b Belay a few feet further right. Take the flake / crack system up the attractive bulging slab / wall. The thin crack doesn't take fingers very well. Crux is either a high step up right or left take your pick.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)

http://northwalesboltfund.webs.com/

Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 03/Oct/2011

Ticklists

Classic UK F7s, Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7b & 7b+, Slate Sport, The Longest Sport Routes in the UK, Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!, Sl@teheads Sl@te

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
richard_briggs7 26 Jun, 2019 AltLd G/U
sambarstow ?Jun, 2019 AltLd dog
Andy Peak 1 5 Oct, 2017 AltLd β Lead pitches 1 3 4 and 5 me and Dan boath lead pitch 4 the grove pich, Awsome climbing. And my hardist numerical OS 7b or 7b+
Lead pitches 1 3 4 and 5 me and Dan boath lead pitch 4 the grove pich, Awsome climbing. And my hardist numerical OS 7b or 7b+
Dronz 6 Sep, 2017 Lead Mega route. Did it in 6 pitches, lead 1,2,4,5,6. Climbed onsight to the groove then Dogged/aided up the groove in an attempt to tip out before darkness. Climbed the last pitch clean from 2nd bolt, would've been good to try and ground up it but ran out of time! First 3 pitches were good but had to take a lot of care with a fair bit of loose and hollow rock. Top two pitches of the route were immaculate in terms of aesthetic, rock quality and the way in which they climbed.
with Qureshi
Mega route. Did it in 6 pitches, lead 1,2,4,5,6. Climbed onsight to the groove then Dogged/aided up the groove in an attempt to tip out before darkness. Climbed the last pitch clean from 2nd bolt, would've been good to try and ground up it but ran out of time! First 3 pitches were good but had to take a lot of care with a fair bit of loose and hollow rock. Top two pitches of the route were immaculate in terms of aesthetic, rock quality and the way in which they climbed.
with Qureshi
MischaHY 6 Sep, 2016 AltLd Mental. The groove pitch is immense and the upper slab is a classic slate hairline crack/flake. We climbed in the wet and mist with slimy lower pitches. What a wild ride. Got me psyched for the groove next door!
with Kallum
Mental. The groove pitch is immense and the upper slab is a classic slate hairline crack/flake. We climbed in the wet and mist with slimy lower pitches. What a wild ride. Got me psyched for the groove next door!
with Kallum
Luke Brooks ?Aug, 2016 AltLd Not quite... rained off the top pitch. Groove pitch is more like 7a+.
with KB83
Not quite... rained off the top pitch. Groove pitch is more like 7a+.
with KB83
Glyn 31 Jul, 2016 AltLd O/S Fun adventure, grove pitch is seriously impressive. Worth it for this pitch alone, stunning bridging. A few bolts were loose on the lower pitches, worth taking a adjustable spanner to gently tightening on second. Take care with scree and loose rock on lower pitches. Took me a while to find the drilled hole in the rock for the summit belay. Good effort, excellent bolting.
Fun adventure, grove pitch is seriously impressive. Worth it for this pitch alone, stunning bridging. A few bolts were loose on the lower pitches, worth taking a adjustable spanner to gently tightening on second. Take care with scree and loose rock on lower pitches. Took me a while to find the drilled hole in the rock for the summit belay. Good effort, excellent bolting.
jonleighton 30 Jul, 2016 AltLd RP Great fun. Failed to lead the crux pitch via some crazy grovelling beta, managed the red point after Glyn showed me the easier bridging way tho!
with Glyn
Great fun. Failed to lead the crux pitch via some crazy grovelling beta, managed the red point after Glyn showed me the easier bridging way tho!
with Glyn
dswansonlow 21 Mar, 2015 Lead dog
with Alex Banks
with Alex Banks
Albachoss 21 Mar, 2015 Lead Lead the first pitch and alt-lead clean up till the P4 Groove and P5 slab. The groove was nuts and the top slab is proper ard! Quality adventure
with Dougie
Lead the first pitch and alt-lead clean up till the P4 Groove and P5 slab. The groove was nuts and the top slab is proper ard! Quality adventure
with Dougie
Jamie Skelton 12 Oct, 2014 AltLd dog Amazing route split into 6 pitches, fell on 2 and dogged 5&6, Hard!
Amazing route split into 6 pitches, fell on 2 and dogged 5&6, Hard!
08nbrierley 12 Oct, 2014 AltLd dog Lead pitches 2,4 and 5. meant to do desolation of smaug. did it clean till pitch 5 and 6
Lead pitches 2,4 and 5. meant to do desolation of smaug. did it clean till pitch 5 and 6
soph 31 Aug, 2013 AltLd A great route. Figured out groove pitch but stumped by reachy start on pitch 5.
with Steve Long
A great route. Figured out groove pitch but stumped by reachy start on pitch 5.
with Steve Long
Hidden ?Feb, 2012 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28 Oct, 2011 AltLd O/S
Sl@te Head 3 Oct, 2011 Lead First Ascent in the wind rain and cloud! .....Very memorable.
First Ascent in the wind rain and cloud! .....Very memorable.
McGuinness ?Oct, 2011 2nd Awesome stuff!
with Ian ll-j
Awesome stuff!
with Ian ll-j
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Voting
High 7c
Mid 7c
Low 7c
High 7b+
Mid 7b+
Low 7b+
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 9
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Dogged
Onsighted
Redpoint
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set