135m, 5 pitches. Once the longest fully bolted sport route in the UK now the 4th longest to 'Tan y Ddraig' still a great adventure from the very bottom of Twll Mawr to the Top of the Quarryman wall.

Pitch 1 (30m)F6b Climbs the Slab in the corner with some bridging. Clip the high 9th bolt and carefully traverse right avoiding the scree ledge to a double bolt belay.
Pitch 2 (30m)F7a Takes the obvious crack and flake line, easy to start, with a hard move over a bulge near the top to a ledge and double bolt belay where Opening Gambit used to cross.
Pitch 3 (30m)F6b The slab / wall to a ledge at the foot of a short groove and possible belay ledge (2 bolts) continue up the arete past 3 bolts taking you to the 'Matilda Ledge' double bolt belay.
Pitch 4 (25m)F7b+ The immaculate green groove above beckons. A beginners Quarryman groove. 2 bolt belay below Wonderful World of Walt Disney.
Pitch 5 (20m)F7b Belay a few feet further right. Take the flake / crack system up the attractive bulging slab / wall. The thin crack doesn't take fingers very well. Crux is either a high step up right or left take your pick.

NOTE: If you've enjoyed any of the bolted routes in Twll Mawr please consider donating to the North Wales Bolt Fund :-)


Ian Lloyd-Jones and Sion McGuinness 03/Oct/2011

Ticklists: Classic UK F7s, Dinorwic Slate - Multi Pitch Sport Climbs, All the Llanberis SLATE sport @ 7b & 7b+, Slate Sport, The Longest Sport Routes in the UK, Twll Mawr Big Wall 1000 Metre Challenge!.

MischaHY 06/Sep/16 AltLd

Mental. The groove pitch is immense and the upper slab is a classic slate hairline crack/flake. We climbed in the wet and mist with slimy lower pitches. What a wild ride. Got me psyched for the groove next door!

with Kallum
Luke Brooks ?/Aug/16 AltLd

Not quite... rained off the top pitch. Groove pitch is more like 7a+.

with Kate
Glyn 31/Jul/16 AltLd O/S

Fun adventure, grove pitch is seriously impressive. Worth it for this pitch alone, stunning bridging. A few bolts were loose on the lower pitches, worth taking a adjustable spanner to gently tightening on second. Take care with scree and loose rock on lower pitches. Took me a while to find the drilled hole in the rock for the summit belay. Good effort, excellent bolting.

jonleighton 30/Jul/16 AltLd RP

Great fun. Failed to lead the crux pitch via some crazy grovelling beta, managed the red point after Glyn showed me the easier bridging way tho!

Albachoss 21/Mar/15 Lead

Lead the first pitch and alt-lead clean up till the P4 Groove and P5 slab. The groove was nuts and the top slab is proper ard! Quality adventure

with Dougie
dswansonlow 21/Mar/15 Lead dog
with Alex Banks
Hidden 12/Oct/14 AltLd dog
08nbrierley 12/Oct/14 AltLd dog

Lead pitches 2,4 and 5. meant to do desolation of smaug. did it clean till pitch 5 and 6

with jamie
soph 31/Aug/13 AltLd

A great route. Figured out groove pitch but stumped by reachy start on pitch 5.

with Steve Long
Hidden ?/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 28/Oct/11 AltLd O/S
ian Ll-J 03/Oct/11 Lead

First Ascent in the wind rain and cloud! .....Very memorable.

McGuinness ?/Oct/11 2nd

Awesome stuff!

with Ian ll-j
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High 7c
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High 7b+
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