UKC


ClimberDateStyle
AGilmour 13/Aug/17 2nd
Colin Dyer 13/Aug/17 AltLd

A truly suberb route. Worth its stars, varied, interesting climbing throughout in a suberb setting. The offwidth chimney is nails. Worth noting this route takes at least a good two days of sun to dry.

Hugh Simons 13/Aug/17 Lead O/S

Led all pitches. Did the whole route in 4 pitches, linking 1&2 and 3&4 together. I found pitch 1&2 very hard, completely different technique required than any other route I've climbed. Lots of palming, smearing, hand and fist jams in the wet crack and back shuffling. Very chuffed to get up them, pretty exhausting. The 5b slab seemed easy in comparison. Great route, fully worth E1 to me!

Dave Payne 13/Aug/17 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch 2 and 5. Excellent route.

Hidden 13/Aug/17 2nd
duncana 28/May/17 AltLd

Great route. Led P2 and P4. Quite enjoyed the first pitch chimneys, and airy traverse on P3 is short lived.

with Pippa Archer
tomaspkr 12/May/17 AltLd O/S
with moritz morlok
Hidden 07/May/17 AltLd dog
noskki 06/May/17 AltLd O/S
bclifton 25/Mar/17 AltLd
Kevin Woods 20/Sep/16 AltLd O/S

Led P2, 3, 5. Very good route. P1 is the crux!

with Tom Lawfield
Grimpzen 18/Jun/16 AltLd

Very Nice route, crux pitch is definitely the first, which is very awkward, but great!

metrorat 05/Jun/16 AltLd

Had a bit of a mare on the first pitch due to my poor chimneying skills, rested a couple of times to deal with the calf pump and fear. Once I nailed the technique I pushed, thrutched and swore through the crux (harder than the 5b slab traverse imho) and ended up sat atop the chimney flake with much rejoicing. Led pitches 1, 3 and 5. Take a set of brass micros and offsets if you want any chance of protecting the 4b slab, I only had one which I squandered lower down. The mega runout made it all the more exciting though. Was jealous of klaus leading the superb 5b pitch, the slab was easy on second but would definitely have given pause for thought on the sharp end. Pitch 5 a straightforward romp and thoroughly enjoyable. Between the varied climbing, exciting runouts, excellent belays and the atmospheric positions I'd say definitely a 4 star route.

with Klaus Maus
Hugh Macgregor 09/May/16 AltLd
with Hannah Gibbs, Marcus Peabody
Hidden 09/May/16 AltLd
Dougbart 17/Oct/15 AltLd
with Euan
Captain Solo 17/Oct/15 AltLd

A fantastic varied route in October sunshine.

with Doug
joe.91 19/Sep/15 AltLd O/S

That first pitch is a b*****! 5a my arse, more like 5b! And the 5b pitch is only 5a! But another fantastic route in a fantastic location.

Robb Bert 19/Sep/15 AltLd

Got pitch 1 (Mmmm) &3 (Ahhh)

AmyG 08/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
eaf4 08/Aug/15 AltLd

First mountain route this year with the shite weather. Cracking day, cracking route. Led 1,3,5&6 as one.

with AGoodi
EBailey 25/Apr/15 AltLd
Hidden 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
D.Russell 07/Sep/14 AltLd O/S
with Adam
Hidden 09/Jul/14 Lead O/S
cat22 20/Apr/14 2nd dnf

Too early in the season for a 20m runout... even if it was on the 4b pitch.

with Mike
allyrocke 26/May/12 AltLd dog

Impossible first pitch!

with Ted Angus
Liam Ingram 26/May/12 AltLd

Lead 2nd tier of chimney (2 rests), P3 and P5. Poor rock in the chimney spoiled the route slightly for me. Probably worth E1 5b but not the fourth star.

Hidden 27/Aug/11 AltLd
gjd 24/Jul/11 Lead dog

I led the whole route as W was still recovering. Slipped while looking for the way to do the crux traverse.

uphillnow 12/Jul/11 AltLd

Very good but 3 not 4 stars.Pitch 1 was bit dirty, especially the start

with Stuart Holmes
tomshanti 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

stunning,best mountain route so far.varied and interesting.chimney hard wk.led the vs pitches(2 and 4/5)lovely delicate moves onto and up slab,p3.bit of an epic to finish-lessons learnt in rope drag/extending!extended p4 to belay high and in the rain.

with imelda, Simon
Hidden 11/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden 11/Jun/11 AltLd
JasonK 04/Jun/11 AltLd
with John Nelson, Euan Boyd
shugsan 04/Jun/11 -
j_nelson 04/Jun/11 -
with shugsan
Hidden ??/2011 -
johannes 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S

The chimneys are brilliant, haven't heard myself swearing that much since quite some time. 60m ropes are just enough to run the top two pitches together if you belay from the left end of the crack below the big roof.

henning82 04/Sep/10 AltLd O/S
Shaw Brown 19/Jun/10 AltLd

Great route. Thought the slab was 5b E1,sadly the slab crux is easly by-passed which stops the route being a classic.

with Loz
Feeling bold 28/May/10 2nd dog

Started what we thought was the VS Hammer but we were right of the chimney start for West flank heading up a slab and crack start. Picked up with West flank from slab at top of chimney. Entertainment all the way on slab, crack, traverse and overhangs. A cool lead by Alex on a thrilling route, well starred. P1 I slipped down-climbing from retrieving gear.

with Alex T
THardSevere 23/May/10 2nd dog

amazing climb. Dogged the chimneys a bit when taking out the gear though I think wearing a ricksack made doing it clean very difficult. All the pitches were superb. It says E1 in my guide book and gives it 4 stars. The "crux" wasn't that hard in my opinion.

with jamie foxen
jamiefoxen 23/May/10 Lead O/S

worth every star, the first three pitches with a variety of difernt clibing styles.

rob askew 22/May/10 Lead O/S

Lead all pitches, easy E1 or hard HVS. I found the first pitch the hardest even though the third is supposedly the crux.

with andy m
jamestheyip 22/May/10 AltLd O/S

Bottom chimney was slimy and I found it very difficult. What was supposed to be the crux was pretty straight forward. Nice route!

with Peter
AndyL 22/May/10 2nd
with Simon, Phil Jennings
Phil Jennings 22/May/10 AltLd O/S
with Simon Locke, Andy Latham
Hidden 10/Apr/10 Lead
mulletcocktail2000 26/Sep/09 AltLd dnf

drizzle started before the climbing. pressed on. chimney provided some exciting climbing with the wet slab! next time.

with mike
alex_arthur 20/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Not a three star route.

with Matthew Osborne
Lawrie Brand 07/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

E1 5b and 4 stars in selected and difinitve guides, don't know if you could get away with that. 1st 2 pitches involve lots of chimney skills

with Al Goodridge
AndyL 24/May/09 AltLd

first 2 chimneys are the hardest bits.

with Scott
Hidden 17/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/08 AltLd O/S
reg_measures ??/2008 AltLd O/S
with steve burdett
ed woods 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
gaz.marshall 05/May/07 AltLd O/S
with Eddie
Hidden 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
sgl 04/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Konnie
Hidden ?/May/06 AltLd O/S
john irving ??/2006 -

Chimney up the slab

with Stone
French Erick 15/May/05 AltLd O/S
Dave Kerr 15/May/05 AltLd
with Erick Baillot
Hidden 05/May/02 AltLd
Lone Rider ??/2000 -
stugreen75 ??/2000 AltLd O/S
with Brian
Dave Kerr 15/May/99 AltLd
with Martina Osterloh
Scott McRae 02/Jun/95 Lead O/S

2nd slab pitch very wet. had to run back down Glen Rosa to catch ferry, but what an amazing classic climb!

with Ian Thurgood
Old Tyke ??/1993 -
The Pulsing Motorik of Neu! 30/May/92 AltLd O/S
with Thomas
Falko ??/1985 AltLd O/S
with Al W.
Gordon Stainforth 03/May/83 AltLd O/S

A magnificent route.

with Robert Barton
jon ?/May/78 Lead
with Elaine
Martin Bennett 29/Mar/75 -

Because his second couldn't follow 1st pitch. Then swapped leads on the rest.

with A bloke
61 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 33
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 31
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
DNF
Not Set