46m, 2 pitches.

Rockfax Description
The deep, twisting chimney is worthwhile and interesting. It is at the top end of the grade for those not used to 3D climbing.
1) 5, 12m. Enter the fissure steeply (polished) then continue up the groove and narrowing slab above to a choice of stances.
2) 4+, 28m. Continue until is possible to traverse out left onto the rib, finish up this. Alternatively, and a bit less exciting, continue up the slab as for Prats. © Rockfax

Feedback

UserDateNotes
auld al 29 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: new bolts now
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: new bolts now
auld al 29 Apr, 2007 Show βeta
βeta: all now newly bolted and plenty of them, though on the second pitch there didn't appear to be any on the leftwards rib finish
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: all now newly bolted and plenty of them, though on the second pitch there didn't appear to be any on the leftwards rib finish
Rob Webb 18 Jan, 2005 Show βeta
βeta: Great climb. I climb here regularly and there doesn't seem to be any mention of the excellent crag high on your right about halfway along the approach from the parking. There's about 12 routes of about 20mts all in the grades between 5+ and 6b. All newly bolted and very enjoyable. Also, the land owner who owns the parking area has ploughed it up to stop people parking there, so park carefully and considerately.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: Great climb. I climb here regularly and there doesn't seem to be any mention of the excellent crag high on your right about halfway along the approach from the parking. There's about 12 routes of about 20mts all in the grades between 5+ and 6b. All newly bolted and very enjoyable. Also, the land owner who owns the parking area has ploughed it up to stop people parking there, so park carefully and considerately.
TRNovice 9 Nov, 2004 Show βeta
βeta: First bolt is thin, bent and rusted, maybe OK, but maybe not. Second is better, but not brilliant. Perhaps consider some trad gear to back them up.
βeta?
Show beta
βeta: First bolt is thin, bent and rusted, maybe OK, but maybe not. Second is better, but not brilliant. Perhaps consider some trad gear to back them up.
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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Mike401 20 Oct Lead
Jack Manfredi 16 Oct AltLd
with Dad
with Dad
nelstrop 12 Oct Lead O/S
with Chris Adams
with Chris Adams
Mr Fuller 10 Oct Lead O/S Led P1 then abbed off. Great pitch but more like 28 m than the advertised length!
with Steve Hutton
Led P1 then abbed off. Great pitch but more like 28 m than the advertised length!
with Steve Hutton
stouffer 27 Sep AltLd
Morgan Ross 8 Apr Lead O/S
with Duncan Ross
with Duncan Ross
Hidden 6 Apr AltLd
Hidden 6 Apr Lead
Small and weak 6 Apr AltLd
dojmaestro 25 Feb AltLd O/S Lead first pitch, longer than it says on the guide book and the station is after the fork to finish on Petreles proper. Amazing 3d climbing, felt weird but really interesting. Ended up 3+ slab to the right of the 1st belay point, scrambled over the top and down the steep decent to the left to get back to base
with Ben Barker
Lead first pitch, longer than it says on the guide book and the station is after the fork to finish on Petreles proper. Amazing 3d climbing, felt weird but really interesting. Ended up 3+ slab to the right of the 1st belay point, scrambled over the top and down the steep decent to the left to get back to base
with Ben Barker
Joben 25 Feb AltLd O/S Seconded the 1st pitch and couldn't find the 2nd pitch, so finished up the easy slab
Seconded the 1st pitch and couldn't find the 2nd pitch, so finished up the easy slab
Hidden 8 Feb Lead O/S
Gazmataz 17 Jan Lead O/S Did first pitch to cave which is not 12 metres as Rickfax claims. More like 25. Are the length of the pitches the wrong way round in the guide book? Lovely fun climbing
Did first pitch to cave which is not 12 metres as Rickfax claims. More like 25. Are the length of the pitches the wrong way round in the guide book? Lovely fun climbing
Hidden 22 Nov, 2018 2nd O/S
Ruth O'Brien 16 Nov, 2018 Lead O/S
with Lea
with Lea
Alaina 3 Nov, 2018 AltLd
with jcdavy
with jcdavy
jcdavy 3 Nov, 2018 AltLd
with Alaina
with Alaina
edwardyearsley 16 Oct, 2018 2nd O/S
HeatherRobertson44 16 Oct, 2018 2nd
chris cockbain 5 May, 2018 Lead O/S Had a bit of a wait at the belay while jerome shed some weight
Had a bit of a wait at the belay while jerome shed some weight
Hidden 14 Apr, 2018 Lead O/S
JackSewell1997 13 Apr, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Matt J
with Matt J
Hidden 11 Apr, 2018 Lead
pdamann 14 Feb, 2018 AltLd O/S Nick led P1, I led P2.
with NPTLeathers, Ed Russell
Nick led P1, I led P2.
with NPTLeathers, Ed Russell
Neverathome 5 Feb, 2018 Lead
with Jim Althans
with Jim Althans
Tom Blake 20 Jan, 2018 Lead O/S Awesome climbing up the chimney, my first of its kind. Belay station nice and secure, led both pitches and bumped into my mates at the top anchor. Great fun!
Awesome climbing up the chimney, my first of its kind. Belay station nice and secure, led both pitches and bumped into my mates at the top anchor. Great fun!
Jessicacrump 17 Jan, 2018 2nd
betathief 17 Jan, 2018 Lead
jessieleong 22 Dec, 2017 AltLd O/S James lead p1- which isn’t 12m! It’s more like 20m and in the cave. Study the guidebook carefully as the bolts go straight up from there on a thin slab, ( three bolts up) then reach a perch and the bolts go to the left. Was a tricky route to routefind, a lot of climbers at the base warned about not continuing too straight or end up on the other climb. p2 is fine, fairly average climbing
with Jaomes
James lead p1- which isn’t 12m! It’s more like 20m and in the cave. Study the guidebook carefully as the bolts go straight up from there on a thin slab, ( three bolts up) then reach a perch and the bolts go to the left. Was a tricky route to routefind, a lot of climbers at the base warned about not continuing too straight or end up on the other climb. p2 is fine, fairly average climbing
with Jaomes
Jaomes 22 Dec, 2017 AltLd
ftocher 19 Dec, 2017 Lead
with Callum Ray
with Callum Ray
timreynolds 18 Nov, 2017 Lead O/S In one big pitch
In one big pitch
Yox89 6 Nov, 2017 AltLd
Hidden 6 Nov, 2017 AltLd O/S
jcdavy 14 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
with Garnham
with Garnham
Garnham 14 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
with jcdavy
with jcdavy
neilmackie 14 Jan, 2017 AltLd O/S
with ben
with ben
TomOxenham 1 Jan, 2017 Lead O/S
Hidden 24 Dec, 2016 Lead rpt
bryan p 21 Dec, 2016 -
with CaTrin
with CaTrin
Hidden 21 Dec, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden 21 Dec, 2016 AltLd O/S
Mark Eddy 6 Dec, 2016 Lead
with Vicky F
with Vicky F
BarrySW19 27 Oct, 2016 AltLd O/S Great fun - the best route I've done on this crag. Worming up the chimney is a good laugh and the 3D climbing keeps on coming.
Great fun - the best route I've done on this crag. Worming up the chimney is a good laugh and the 3D climbing keeps on coming.
Luke_climber 17 Oct, 2016 Lead O/S 1st pitch only
with Dad
1st pitch only
with Dad
LivBarron 2 Oct, 2016 AltLd
Karlgreasley 29 Sep, 2016 Lead O/S
Hotcake 19 Apr, 2016 Lead MP.
MP.
fionidi 31 Mar, 2016 Lead O/S
Hidden ?Mar, 2016 AltLd rpt
louisnewman 28 Nov, 2015 Lead
Bryan M 28 Nov, 2015 AltLd P1 to 2 bolt belay after 2nd chimney (25m)
with Pero
P1 to 2 bolt belay after 2nd chimney (25m)
with Pero
Pero 28 Nov, 2015 AltLd
jamie ward 23 Nov, 2015 AltLd
with Simon Gladstone
with Simon Gladstone
GStone 23 Nov, 2015 AltLd
with Jamie Ward
with Jamie Ward
Big_T 21 Nov, 2015 2nd O/S
martintv 6 Nov, 2015 TR O/S
with Vegard
with Vegard
martintv 6 Nov, 2015 Lead RP
with Vegard
with Vegard
Hidden 6 Nov, 2015 Lead O/S
duzinga 6 Nov, 2015 Lead O/S Done as a single pitch.
Done as a single pitch.
cem 5 Nov, 2015 Lead rpt
with JoeyD1
with JoeyD1
Hidden 5 Nov, 2015 Lead β
powelli 21 Oct, 2015 AltLd G/U I lead the first pitch and couldn't find anything that looked like a convincing stance so traversed into the cave to use the anchor for Prats next door. Great fun first pitch although take care with side loose bolts. Second pitch a little showed in places and also good value.
with Paul
I lead the first pitch and couldn't find anything that looked like a convincing stance so traversed into the cave to use the anchor for Prats next door. Great fun first pitch although take care with side loose bolts. Second pitch a little showed in places and also good value.
with Paul
Hidden 30 Jan, 2015 Lead
PaulHermes 5 Dec, 2014 -
with Paul Thorpe
with Paul Thorpe
carlh 29 Oct, 2014 AltLd O/S With John Makin. First day of a week long trip - A perfect crag to warm up on before some bigger routes.
With John Makin. First day of a week long trip - A perfect crag to warm up on before some bigger routes.
stouffer 30 May, 2014 Lead
Hidden 27 Apr, 2014 AltLd O/S
Cerris90 21 Mar, 2014 2nd
Chris wilson 14 Mar, 2014 Lead
with Vicky
with Vicky
bpmclimb 16 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S
Huntlyfiddler 16 Feb, 2014 2nd
Hidden 7 Feb, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jan, 2014 Lead O/S
Hidden 20 Jan, 2014 2nd O/S
scott mayled 14 Nov, 2013 Lead O/S Hard for the grade.
with A student
Hard for the grade.
with A student
barney_edin 6 Nov, 2013 Lead
with Atul, Mike T, aiyer
with Atul, Mike T, aiyer
aiyer 6 Nov, 2013 2nd
Hidden 13 May, 2013 AltLd O/S
robblowen 13 May, 2013 AltLd O/S P1, Best pitch of the trip a grit route on limestone, awesome!!!
P1, Best pitch of the trip a grit route on limestone, awesome!!!
Hotcake 1 Apr, 2013 Lead MP Lead - Excellent chimney / Corner climbing
MP Lead - Excellent chimney / Corner climbing
Hidden 18 Mar, 2013 2nd
Hidden ?Mar, 2013 AltLd
Hidden ?Mar, 2013 AltLd
brianrunner 27 Feb, 2013 Lead As one pitch. Nice route
with steve wells
As one pitch. Nice route
with steve wells
Hidden ??, 2013 2nd
Hidden 2 Dec, 2012 2nd
Jonathan Emett 17 Nov, 2012 Lead O/S as one pitch. there are no lower-off rings at the top of pitch 1
with dennis
as one pitch. there are no lower-off rings at the top of pitch 1
with dennis
Paul Hy 28 Oct, 2012 Lead O/S
with Tim R
with Tim R
Tom Packer 14 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
JonnoP 1 Apr, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Paul Burke
with Paul Burke
Stuart Macfarlane 25 Mar, 2012 AltLd rpt Jeanie led 1st pitch, I led 2nd pitch.
with Jeanie
Jeanie led 1st pitch, I led 2nd pitch.
with Jeanie
simonwaters5 ?Mar, 2012 AltLd
with Gavin Edwards
with Gavin Edwards
Hidden 21 Feb, 2012 AltLd
afrosam 20 Jan, 2012 Lead O/S
LouCypher ??, 2012 Lead O/S
Martin Bennett 15 Dec, 2011 -
with Ali
with Ali
EllieWoods 20 Nov, 2011 Lead 5, 4+ (led in 1 pitch)
with Jono
5, 4+ (led in 1 pitch)
with Jono
Stuart Macfarlane 16 Nov, 2011 AltLd rpt I led 1st pitch, Jeanie led 2nd pitch.
with Jeanie
I led 1st pitch, Jeanie led 2nd pitch.
with Jeanie
Hidden 16 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
cem 16 Nov, 2011 Lead O/S
with Delphine Strauss
with Delphine Strauss
Hidden 13 Oct, 2011 Lead
katherinesydney 13 Oct, 2011 Lead O/S caves provide shady relief! ran out of quickdraws running pitches together so aurore did end bit from upper belay cave
with aurore jaffuel, anna newberry
caves provide shady relief! ran out of quickdraws running pitches together so aurore did end bit from upper belay cave
with aurore jaffuel, anna newberry
AndyFunnell 13 Oct, 2011 2nd
with Skinny
with Skinny
Ralphus 18 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Matt Smith 13 Apr, 2011 TR O/S Very squirmy at the bottom, felt more like caving then climbing at the bottom.
with Jack Fellows, Andy Schlereth
Very squirmy at the bottom, felt more like caving then climbing at the bottom.
with Jack Fellows, Andy Schlereth
Hidden 13 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Apr, 2011 Lead
MelH 4 Apr, 2011 AltLd rpt
with Bekah
with Bekah
RebekahD 4 Apr, 2011 Lead O/S Led 1st pitch, Mel led 2nd
with MelH
Led 1st pitch, Mel led 2nd
with MelH
Stuart Macfarlane 1 Apr, 2011 Lead rpt Jeanie led 1st pitch, I led 2nd pitch.
with Jeanie
Jeanie led 1st pitch, I led 2nd pitch.
with Jeanie
Hidden 29 Mar, 2011 Lead
tmawer 14 Feb, 2011 Lead RP
with John
with John
Hidden 10 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 7 Nov, 2010 Lead O/S
richardlongfils1986 6 Nov, 2010 AltLd O/S Did this in 3 pitches. Very polished first pitch.
with claire morgan, ian dalloway
Did this in 3 pitches. Very polished first pitch.
with claire morgan, ian dalloway
barney_edin 20 Oct, 2010 AltLd
with Sue G
with Sue G
madguernseyboy 11 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
Wildstyle 11 Oct, 2010 2nd
martin one 11 Oct, 2010 Lead O/S
with pete
with pete
madguernseyboy 9 Oct, 2010 2nd O/S
with Garath holes
with Garath holes
gjh 9 Oct, 2010 AltLd lead first pitch
lead first pitch
mol 25 May, 2010 Lead
Jesse Dufton 25 May, 2010 2nd
with mol
with mol
JRae 18 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S P1
with L Campbell
P1
with L Campbell
chri55ie 14 Apr, 2010 AltLd O/S Lead the 2nd pitch
with Peter Cripps
Lead the 2nd pitch
with Peter Cripps
Stuart Macfarlane 27 Mar, 2010 AltLd rpt I led 1st pitch, Jeanie led 2nd pitch.
with Jeanie
I led 1st pitch, Jeanie led 2nd pitch.
with Jeanie
Hidden 18 Feb, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 12 Nov, 2009 AltLd O/S
John Roe 11 Nov, 2009 Lead Led both pitches
with Justin (Ratty) Burgoyne, Paul (Chips) Rafferty
Led both pitches
with Justin (Ratty) Burgoyne, Paul (Chips) Rafferty
GScot38 ?Nov, 2009 Lead
K Wall 19 Feb, 2009 Lead
with Luis SD
with Luis SD
Hidden 5 Jan, 2009 Lead O/S
MelH 28 Dec, 2008 Lead O/S
Stuart Macfarlane 17 Nov, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Jeanie
with Jeanie
Hidden 10 Nov, 2008 Lead
gordon henderson 20 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
drewclimber 20 Oct, 2008 Lead O/S
with martina
with martina
crisaitken 20 Oct, 2008 AltLd
andybeanland 16 Oct, 2008 AltLd O/S
jamie ward 1 Oct, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Rachel
with Rachel
Warren Earle 11 Sep, 2008 Lead O/S Belay in first cave stance makes a more even two pitches. The chimney is the crux in terms of effort then back to balancing on a slab.
with Nev and Nick
Belay in first cave stance makes a more even two pitches. The chimney is the crux in terms of effort then back to balancing on a slab.
with Nev and Nick
Hidden 20 May, 2008 Lead β
Jo Morrison 20 May, 2008 AltLd O/S
with Skinny
with Skinny
Philsy 26 Apr, 2008 Lead
with daveyw
with daveyw
fatbuoybazza 22 Apr, 2008 Lead
with Philsy
with Philsy
Simon Caldwell 13 Apr, 2008 Lead rpt In 2 pitches, I led both. Took the left hand version of pitch 2, which isn't very exciting.
with Lemming
In 2 pitches, I led both. Took the left hand version of pitch 2, which isn't very exciting.
with Lemming
lithos 13 Apr, 2008 2nd
with julie + cef
with julie + cef
Ken lindsay ??, 2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 19 Dec, 2007 Lead O/S
minaturechris 19 Dec, 2007 2nd O/S
with Barra
with Barra
Hidden 17 Dec, 2007 Lead
jcurley 26 Oct, 2007 AltLd O/S led 1st
with Horace
led 1st
with Horace
FrankKeogh 17 Oct, 2007 2nd O/S 5/4 46m Bottle needed to get out from cave! (screw gate on belt loop?)
with Pete Davies
5/4 46m Bottle needed to get out from cave! (screw gate on belt loop?)
with Pete Davies
lulu2 ?Oct, 2007 -
with Sandrine Chiron
with Sandrine Chiron
Hidden 16 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 16 Apr, 2007 AltLd O/S
auld al ?Jan, 2007 Lead O/S
auld al ?Jan, 2007 AltLd O/S
Hidden 30 Dec, 2006 TR O/S
Chris the Tall 22 Nov, 2006 2nd
Hidden 22 Nov, 2006 Lead O/S
Zoomer 18 Nov, 2006 Lead
with A Student
with A Student
Hidden 8 Nov, 2006 AltLd O/S
Dax 16 Oct, 2006 Lead O/S It's a bloody Chimney! 1st route of the day. Only did first pitch becuase of serious pain in big toe (too tight 5.10s used at indoor wall before visit to Spain .. switched to Boreal Crux boots before trip but damage already done)
with Chris Haynes
It's a bloody Chimney! 1st route of the day. Only did first pitch becuase of serious pain in big toe (too tight 5.10s used at indoor wall before visit to Spain .. switched to Boreal Crux boots before trip but damage already done)
with Chris Haynes
Mark_RMC 26 Apr, 2006 AltLd Awkard 3D route. 2nd pitch not worth the bother
with Rob Smart
Awkard 3D route. 2nd pitch not worth the bother
with Rob Smart
Chesh 3 Dec, 2005 Lead O/S
with Phil B
with Phil B
Hidden 30 Nov, 2005 2nd
Dux 23 Nov, 2005 Lead
with Premal
with Premal
Iain Brown 9 Apr, 2005 -
with Ricardo
with Ricardo
erica 14 Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2
Led pitch 2
John Brayshaw 14 Mar, 2005 AltLd O/S
with erica
with erica
Hidden 10 Mar, 2005 Lead O/S
mjeffery ?Jan, 2005 Lead O/S
Tarquin ??, 2003 -
Howard J 26 Feb, 2002 AltLd O/S
with Mark Jarvis
with Mark Jarvis
Hidden 4 Dec, 2001 AltLd O/S
Tarquin ??, 2001 -
abbeywall 4 Nov, 2000 AltLd
with K
with K
Hidden 9 Apr, 2000 AltLd
Hidden 11 Apr, 1998 AltLd
steve prior ?Feb, 1997 Lead
with Roz C
with Roz C
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Votes cast 27
Votes cast 26
Style of Ascent
Lead
Alt Leads
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set