Rockfax Description
The deep, twisting chimney is worthwhile and interesting. It is at the top end of the grade for those not used to 3D climbing.1) 5, 12m. Enter the fissure steeply (polished) then continue up the groove and narrowing slab above to a choice of stances.2) 4+, 28m. Continue until is possible to traverse out left onto the rib, finish up this. Alternatively, and a bit less exciting, continue up the slab as for Prats. © Rockfax
User | Date | Notes | ||
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Stanley | 27 Nov, 2022 |
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βeta: Carried on straight up the groove and slabs above the crack in a single pitch on a 70m rope. Great route although it’s a shame the crack entertainment doesn’t run to the top! | βeta? | |
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βeta: Carried on straight up the groove and slabs above the crack in a single pitch on a 70m rope. Great route although it’s a shame the crack entertainment doesn’t run to the top! |
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hip99 | 21 Feb, 2020 |
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βeta: First pitch goes up much higher to the second cave (13 bolts), not the first cave as shown on topo. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First pitch goes up much higher to the second cave (13 bolts), not the first cave as shown on topo. |
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auld al | 29 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: new bolts now | βeta? | |
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βeta: new bolts now |
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auld al | 29 Apr, 2007 |
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βeta: all now newly bolted and plenty of them, though on the second pitch there didn't appear to be any on the leftwards rib finish | βeta? | |
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βeta: all now newly bolted and plenty of them, though on the second pitch there didn't appear to be any on the leftwards rib finish |
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TRNovice | 9 Nov, 2004 |
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βeta: First bolt is thin, bent and rusted, maybe OK, but maybe not. Second is better, but not brilliant. Perhaps consider some trad gear to back them up. | βeta? | |
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βeta: First bolt is thin, bent and rusted, maybe OK, but maybe not. Second is better, but not brilliant. Perhaps consider some trad gear to back them up. |
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Grade: 5a ***
(Morro Falqui)