UKC

Rockfax Description
A superbly-positioned route with massive exposure from the first move. It is steep, well protected and has plenty of rests. Start about 12m right of the abseil, where a pinnacle rests against the overhangs.
1) 5c, 18m. Climb up the left side of the pinnacle and traverse left below a steepening for 3m to reach a thin crack. Tricky moves up this lead to a stance on ledges above.
2) 5b, 28m. Follow the groove above and pull round the overhang with interest to good holds on the left. These now lead out leftwards towards the arete. Climb up for a few metres before a delicate traverse leads back to the main crack. The crack is short and steep but thankfully blessed with huge holds and spike runners. At its top there is a ledge, traverse out left again to the arete. Climb up before making a few tricky moves back right. A couple of steep and intimidating moves on buckets lead to the top. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Climbs the superb steep wall via a weaving route on good holds.
P1 Climb the left side of the pillar then traverse left to a thin crack which increases in difficulty where a hard move gains good holds then the belay ledge.
P2 Jam up the crack to a widening, then traverse left to another crack, climb up then move back right into the original crack. This is climbed until a leftwards traverse leads to the arete for a few moves, then take the wall on the right past spaced gear to the top and hopefully the warmth of the sun.

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, MIA logbook must haves!, North Wales 100 Classic Climbs, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E2 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, The Road to Shibboleth, Radical Rockcats 2nd Year of Uni Ticklist, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, The best the UK has to offer for mere mortals (apart from the lakes cos its always wet).


ClimberDateStyle
Michael Bortoluzzi 20/May AltLd

Tried leading the first pitch but turned around when the traverse gets a bit bold (although we might have taken a slightly different route - up the spike, across the face and all the way to the jugs on the arete, then up). Rich then cleaned it, and was pretty easy on second, so probably just wasn't in a very brave day. Lead p2, mega climbing with good gear, good golds and good feet all the way. Great first experience on Cloggy and great end to a weekend of only top 50s

Richard Kendrick 20/May AltLd O/S

P1

Al Evans ??/2018 -
BC 18/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

P1, superb climb

JackM92 18/Jul/17 AltLd O/S

Both pitches good. Second especially so, loads of good jams and amazing exposure. Best climbing experience this year so far.

with BC
The Grist 20/Jun/17 AltLd rpt
Tom Livingstone 19/Jun/17 AltLd O/S

P1

anguskille 19/Jun/17 AltLd O/S
with Tom Livingstone
Alex Mason 15/Jun/17 Lead O/S

Pretty wet ascent. Good effort to James tackling the bottom offwidth without any big cams in slippery conditions.

JamesWilliams 15/Jun/17 2nd O/S

so I seconded the main pitch clean, after feeling a bit robbed after a sopping wet green crimp on the crux of pitch one gave me a hard time. ( which i did first go after giving it a good chalking) Totally lost my head after a pretty exposure filled couple of routes before hand and being up high and in the clouds made everything feel a bit scary so I was jibbering and climbing like a spaz. First big day at cloggy so hopefully i'll be used to the exposure next time!

Hidden 26/May/17 Lead O/S
Dan724 25/May/17 Lead O/S

Went to do the Axe with this as a warm up but ran out of time as Simon had an appointment until 12. Shrike was fantastic, a really atmospheric line with good gear and very solid rock by Cloggy standards. A bit lichenous but this just added to the sense of adventure!

with Simon Moore
Andy Moles 10/May/17 Lead
with Calum Muskett
Timothy Miller 08/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Tricky wee bottom pitch but amazing sustained top pitch

with davkeo
davkeo 08/Apr/17 AltLd O/S

Led p2 which is a contender for the best pitch iv ever climbed. Had absolutely everything u could want & also got the sun on top. Amazing. P1 crux felt pretty stiff. Hard 5c mayb 6a?

Climbingspike ??/2017 -
Hidden 27/Aug/16 Lead O/S
UncleMephisto 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S

Exceeds the hype. Done pre-work after a bivvy on top of Cloggy, shirtless at 7am with the wall bathed in golden sunshine. The crux on the first pitch is harder than anything on the second pitch. Fulfillment of a dream.

robpartridge 17/Aug/16 AltLd O/S
Billg 16/Aug/16 2nd rpt
with Will Calvert
Hidden 19/Jul/16 2nd
Colin Scotchford 19/Jul/16 Lead
Graham Westbrook 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

P2. Amazing! Loved it!

mark4344 05/Jun/16 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route, glad to get it clean.

with Graham westbrook
Hidden ??/2016 2nd
W d c ??/2016 Lead O/S

Golden.

with Billg
Climbingspike ??/2016 -
breed 03/Oct/15 AltLd
Ewan Russell 03/Oct/15 AltLd O/S

2nd

with Brad
spidermonkey09 16/Sep/15 Lead O/S

The best E2 in Wales? An absolutely stunning route, intimidating but totally covered with jugs. An E2 climbers Right Wall perhaps. Did it in one massive pitch which is perhaps the best experience, but both pitches would be good. Varied climbing- cracks, walls, aretes- and mostly bomber gear, although slightly bold at the top.

Hidden 16/Sep/15 2nd dog
bede.west 11/Jun/15 AltLd O/S

Oh yes! great route! really glad to do this, first saw this line years ago while walking the Snowdon horse shoe visiting Bangor when I was first starting climbing. Topped out facing directly into the sunset sadly no photo as left camera in my bag rookie error.

with German loui
Dan Vaj 11/Jun/15 2nd O/S
with James McHaffie
Hidden ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Dave Rumney ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden 13/Sep/14 -
lanky 08/Sep/14 AltLd
with Crook
Hidden 05/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Uisdean hawthorn 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
Roget 01/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with robin
Robin Nichols 01/Jul/14 2nd O/S
with Roget
Duncan Campbell 30/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Pitch 2 is absolutely brilliant! Soooo good!

wi11 24/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

P2 Stunning

GPN 21/Jun/14 AltLd

Lead P2.

with Misha
Misha 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with GPN
Ally Baba 21/Jun/14 Lead

Amzing route. So atmospheric. Really cold area though.

with Gav Swinton
davewsargent 21/Jun/14 2nd
with andy neath
tim newton 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Rachel Slater 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Pitch 1.

alastairbegley 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

technically not quite onsight, as I slipped off the first groove on p1 due to it being soaking and then climbed it ground up. P1 felt hard for E1 5c! Lead P2, what a fantastic pitch :)

Nick Russell 19/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Great route, very atmospheric abseiling down into the cloud to start. I led P1, tricky start with wet rock. Superb second pitch.

Luxulyan 18/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Tom Murrell
Ian Jones 13/Jun/14 Lead dnf

Very cold down there. Awkward start and very reachy, thin crux where I ran out of gas. Fantastic quality up to there though.

with Tim Clarke
mike mo ??/2014 -
Allanfairfechan ??/2014 2nd

Second ever Cloggy route in first year of climbing in 1986

with Dave Woodcock
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
Hidden ??/2014 -
harold walmsley 21/Jul/13 2nd rpt
with Richard Bissell
Wil Treasure 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with brannock
James Oswald 21/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the first pitch with a little hesitation to get gear in before the crux... The traverse left is ace!! Dave lead the second pitch and placed more gear in 30ish metres than I've ever seen. Simply one of the best E2s around.

with Kiwi Dave
Brannock 21/Jul/13 AltLd

With Will T, Led first pitch, tough.

spidey 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with mat lamb
Mattlamb90 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

I led P1, pretty hard move to the jug

with spidey
soph 20/Jul/13 Lead rpt
with Lee Cooper
Hidden 20/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Julesthe1st 20/Jul/13 2nd O/S

Seconded both pitches as was the prearranged agreement (I owed Mike some belays). On the list now for the lead as its marvelous.

with Mike
Hidden 18/Jul/13 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Dan Mckinlay 17/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead O/S
frost 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
with D Almond
Andrew Barker 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Brilliant second pitch.

Dave Almond 07/Jul/13 AltLd
with frost
Speeddemonsi 07/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

1st pitch

Hidden 05/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
nathanlee 19/Jun/13 2nd β
The old James turnbull 19/Jun/13 Lead O/S

lead in one monster pitch. better this way i reckon. Amazing pitch

Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
markalmack 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

lead p1

with ctodd
Hidden 08/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
The Grist 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S
ksjs 07/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

This is a salutory note to myself more than anything... Obviously the climbing is good (if on somewhat poor rock, especially P1) but getting there 12ish, getting ab ropes stuck, scrambling out and then, despite a glorious day, getting v cold whilst belaying P2 to the extent that we didn't bother with The Axe made for a significant day's effort without great reward; I think I found the setting generally more stressful than I like for cragging and it was the scramble out that probably created this vibe.

with Joe C
ejected ??/2013 Lead O/S
jcw ??/2013 -
Oliver Sherman 08/Sep/12 AltLd O/S

Super line high on Cloggy. Did on a nice clear day. Found the route-finding a bit tricky, but if you stick to clean rock and move back to the crack asap on the second pitch it is probably quite straighforward.

with Hugh Thomas
Hidden ?/Sep/12 -
Rob Pitt 28/May/12 Lead O/S
with Helen Pitt
chrishedgehog 26/May/12 AltLd O/S
with James Rees
Stig 26/May/12 AltLd O/S

Led P1.

with Chris
Stone Muppet 23/May/12 2nd O/S
with Owain, dan ely
Owain Llewelyn 23/May/12 Lead O/S

Absolutely brilliant route. First pitch was dirty but worthwile. Main pitch goes on forever, maybe worth E2 for the exposure and lack of bomber gear in the top third.

with Dan and Kris
dan ely 23/May/12 2nd O/S
with crispin, owian
Tony Kartawick ??/2012 -
Bob ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
mynyddresident 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

1st pitch,good holds some a bit creaky but great route

with gareth
Hidden 03/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
theotherpetehill 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

Approach via 3 pitches of rotten rock and vertical grass from top of Llithrig. Me P1, Glynne P2.

Russell Birkett 03/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
with Murdoch J
Billg 24/Apr/11 Lead rpt
with Megan Beaumont
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
phil64 ??/2011 -
alasdair19 ??/2011 -
Luke Brooks ??/2011 Lead O/S

Abbed in and just did top pitch.

with Konrad Doyle
Hidden ??/2011 -
ewen 21/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
with neil stabbs
Hidden 04/Jun/10 2nd
richiebongo 26/May/10 Lead O/S
with Gwen Thomson
khawk 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
with datoon
datoon 23/May/10 AltLd O/S
with K
feilx 22/May/10 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby 22/May/10 AltLd

Led top pitch.

with edinbed
Hidden 24/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
centurion05 ??/2010 Lead O/S
with dave g
Hidden ??/2010 -
zukator ??/2010 Lead
beci tointen ?/Jul/09 Lead β
with my uncle carl
Hidden 27/Jul/08 AltLd
The old James turnbull ?/Jun/08 Lead
with aiden
Julian Wedd ??/2008 Lead
with Dave Evans
Marcus ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug/07 2nd
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Mark A Humphries 17/Jul/06 Lead O/S

I on-sighted both pitches

with Jim
Mark Stevenson 15/Jul/06 AltLd dog
with Tania Noakes
dan gibson 10/Jun/06 Lead rpt
Sut 09/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
Sut 09/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 08/Jun/06 AltLd O/S
with john nuttal
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
mike lawrence? ??/2006 -
Boy ??/2006 -
Hidden 31/Jul/05 2nd O/S
michael burrows 12/Jul/05 AltLd O/S

lead the 2nd pitch

with rob geaves
Hidden 11/Jul/05 AltLd
nicholas Barrowclough 02/Apr/04 2nd
with Norman Clacher
pete johnson 28/Sep/02 AltLd O/S
with Phil Moore
Mark Riley ?/Aug/00 Lead
with Stuart Greenall
Hidden ?/Jul/99 AltLd O/S
tmawer ??/1999 Lead O/S
pauldrew ??/1999 Lead

Some time late nineties

with Brighid Rowe
dickypips ??/1999 Lead O/S

well protected cruxes.seem to remember it a bit run out higher up but climbing was easier.out there,one of my most memorable and exciting climbing days

Just Another Dave ??/1998 Lead O/S
with Jo Bertalot
Hidden ??/1998 Lead
steveb2006 21/Jul/96 Lead

A satisfying route to do after The Axe - tired now

with Rob Gambles
Hidden 21/Jul/96 Lead O/S
sadams 08/Jun/96 AltLd
with John Boyle
GuyM ??/1996 -
WB ??/1996 AltLd O/S
with GuyM
Dave Musgrove Jnr 01/Aug/95 AltLd
with Nick Ashton
NickJH ?/Aug/94 AltLd O/S
with SLambert
Hidden 06/Jun/93 2nd
Ched ??/1993 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
Steve Crowe 13/Jun/92 Lead O/S
with karin
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/May/92 AltLd
with Paul Kallmes
mark-abz 28/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Andy W
Billg ??/1991 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory
Nigel Coe ??/1991 -
with Tim Dunsby, Ray Mardon
jfletcher 13/Sep/90 AltLd O/S
with Glen Jones
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/90 AltLd O/S
with Jean Williamson, Bill Williamson
Eduardo Martinez 05/May/90 Lead O/S
Neil R 04/May/90 AltLd

Led first pitch

with AIH
Pedro50 17/Jun/89 AltLd O/S
with Nigel Preston
Hidden ?/Jun/89 AltLd
Hidden 28/May/89 AltLd
Will Webb ?/May/89 AltLd
with Mark Cole
Hidden 22/May/88 AltLd
steveb2006 22/May/88 AltLd

Mike leads first pitch and I the long second pitch

with Andy Hartog (Hedge), MikePycroft
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Martin Bennett 13/Jul/87 -
with MT
Neil McA 25/Apr/87 AltLd O/S

Shorts on Cloggy in April, heatwave!

with Martin Mandel
Brian Wilderspin 15/Jun/86 AltLd rpt

As I recall I led the first pitch and Pete the awesome second pitch

Hidden 03/Jun/85 AltLd
Seymore Butt ??/1985 AltLd
with Jim Loxham
Melok ??/1985 -
andybirtwistle 11/Aug/84 Lead O/S
with Ernie Greenwood, Mike Arnold
neilh 26/Jul/84 AltLd O/S

an exciting traverse to the bottom of the route from the top of Great Wall

with kevin glass
PaulTanton ?/Jul/84 Lead O/S

Outstanding route. One of my first climbs on Cloggy

with Gwyn Ingman
Mark Kemball 05/Jul/83 AltLd
with Matt Boyer
charlesmfrench 03/Jul/83 AltLd O/S

Led top pitch with Alan Bennett and Dave Smith. Led first pitch with Tony Lewis on 18 June 1988.

with Alan Bennett
Andy Nicholson ?/Jun/83 AltLd O/S
with JR
Mike Owen 25/Jul/82 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
jon 16/May/80 Lead
with van dave
andy gittins ??/1980 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 Lead

Did it 'old style' (three points of aid) with Graham Arnold in about 1975 - best route we did all summer - and we did a lot. Free climbed it with Parky some time in the 1980s.

Falko ??/1980 Lead

Not sure of the year but I'll never forget the day. Fantastic climbing in a magnificent setting.

with Peter Brashaw
Hidden 24/Jul/79 Lead
Brian Wilderspin 22/Sep/78 AltLd O/S

With a guy called Frank ??

granitbahn ??/1978 AltLd
Mark Kemball 13/Aug/77 AltLd
with Sarah Bridge, George Mumford
GeoffG 09/Jul/77 AltLd

in those days we used a warthog ice screw as a nut key! paul was last man up and the warthog was sent down the rope to retrieve the last nut. unfortunately it embedded in his hand. we gave the A&E guys the invaluable advice that it was a hit in/unscrew type of implement!!!

with paul sharrock, tony bowker
Martin Bennett 06/Jul/77 -
with JD
Steve Lewis 21/May/77 AltLd O/S
with sharpie
sharpie ?/May/77 AltLd O/S
with Steve lewis
Derek Ryden ?/Aug/76 Lead O/S

Free. Climbed wall just left of crux corner.

with Nige Corby
Hidden 19/Apr/76 AltLd
Hidden ??/1976 AltLd
Nigel Bond 02/Aug/75 AltLd
with Dave Humphries
mikej 02/Sep/69 AltLd
with Chris Fitzhugh
uphillnow 17/Jun/67 AltLd

Climbed with John who led. Since led the route on a number of occasions. On first ascent Ken Wilson was photographing - some pictures in The Black Cliff.

with John Grieve
137 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
Votes cast 39
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 38
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
DNF
Not Set