Rockfax Description
A great corner-climb, and as well-positioned as you would expect for this wall. The approach scramble across steep grass needs some care. It is best reached from below by routes in the Pigott's Climb Area (see page 138 ). Start below the prominent left-facing corner.
1) 4b, 15m. Climb the right-hand crack to a stance in the chimney.
2) 5b, 20m. Move up to an overhang, heave around this with difficulty, then another pokey section leads back into the crack above. A brutal fight up this on rattly jams leads to easier climbing up to the grassy ledge on the right. Scramble off easily right to escape. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, UK Extreme Corners, Ultimate E1 ticklist, Alex's Wales ticklist, Caff's Cool E1s List, Joe Browns Shops 50th Anniversary Celebration Routes List, George's Ultimate Easy to Mid Grade North Wales Trad Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
Gordon W 25 Aug AltLd O/S P2. Absolutely solid, proper grovelling.
P2. Absolutely solid, proper grovelling.
Hidden 25 Aug AltLd O/S
benrhyd 29 Jun AltLd O/S Led 1st pitch, dad led 2nd. Great sustained climbing, though apparently the gear was a bit fiddly to get in and large cams would have been useful
Led 1st pitch, dad led 2nd. Great sustained climbing, though apparently the gear was a bit fiddly to get in and large cams would have been useful
Adam John Haynes 29 Jun Lead O/S
with benrhyd
with benrhyd
mark4344 27 Jun AltLd O/S Good thrutch on second pitch. Glad to gave big cams to protect second pitch.
with Dan
Good thrutch on second pitch. Glad to gave big cams to protect second pitch.
with Dan
Hidden 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Alistair Corbett 10 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Dom
with Dom
Hidden 2 Jul, 2018 2nd
Flavio 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
JendeHoxar 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Dave Parton 23 Jun, 2018 2nd Great pitch, no need for hand jams
with Adam Ellwood
Great pitch, no need for hand jams
with Adam Ellwood
DubyaJamesDubya 23 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with Blake
with Blake
chris wyatt 26 Aug, 2017 Lead G/U gopping. kedders was chrissed.
with SteveK
gopping. kedders was chrissed.
with SteveK
SteveK 26 Aug, 2017 2nd Damp
Damp
Mackinclimb 23 Apr, 2017 AltLd
with arose
with arose
arose 23 Apr, 2017 AltLd Good fun. The approach is probably E1 3c
Good fun. The approach is probably E1 3c
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Climbingspike ??, 2017 -
Hidden 17 Sep, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd
UncleMephisto 16 Aug, 2016 2nd O/S Done in the dark - probs to Rob for a very casual night time lead! Lots of lovely jamming, 3 star route for me.
Done in the dark - probs to Rob for a very casual night time lead! Lots of lovely jamming, 3 star route for me.
DaveThexton 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Hidden 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Tom Ripley 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
robpartridge 16 Aug, 2016 Lead O/S
Mark Stevenson 16 Aug, 2016 AltLd
Antony Mariani ??, 2016 Lead dog Fell, surmounting the overlap. Got back on, used my feet and just completed the pitch as the pump grew. Superb (especially in hindsight!)
with Jacek
Fell, surmounting the overlap. Got back on, used my feet and just completed the pitch as the pump grew. Superb (especially in hindsight!)
with Jacek
soph 17 Aug, 2015 Lead O/S Brilliant- great clean rock. Definitely 3 stars. In one (45m?) pitch. Would be very well protected with two cam 3s but fine with 1.
with Pablo Martin, Amy UT
Brilliant- great clean rock. Definitely 3 stars. In one (45m?) pitch. Would be very well protected with two cam 3s but fine with 1.
with Pablo Martin, Amy UT
Amy UT 17 Aug, 2015 2nd O/S Fantastic
with Pablo Martin, soph
Fantastic
with Pablo Martin, soph
Paul ablitt 13 Sep, 2014 Lead O/S
with Rushy
with Rushy
Hidden 13 Sep, 2014 -
lanky 8 Sep, 2014 AltLd
with Crook
with Crook
dan gibson 26 Jul, 2014 Lead O/S
R0bbie 22 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
with Taba
with Taba
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Duncan Campbell 21 Jul, 2013 2nd Thrutchy beast!
with Fingers
Thrutchy beast!
with Fingers
shed_hed 21 Jul, 2013 2nd O/S Dougie led all in one pitch. Interesting climbing, couldn't find any of those perfect jams that Dougie was on about though!
Dougie led all in one pitch. Interesting climbing, couldn't find any of those perfect jams that Dougie was on about though!
dswansonlow 21 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
AlexD 17 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S led first pitch, seemed a bit pointless, better done in a onner i reckon. second pitch is a beast! tamed by technical footworj though!
led first pitch, seemed a bit pointless, better done in a onner i reckon. second pitch is a beast! tamed by technical footworj though!
alasdair19 ?Jul, 2013 AltLd hard really needed size 4 cam! best done in one big pitch the intermediate belay is very uncomfortable
hard really needed size 4 cam! best done in one big pitch the intermediate belay is very uncomfortable
pauldrew 8 Jun, 2013 2nd
with Dennis Wong, jim jones
with Dennis Wong, jim jones
Owain Llewelyn 23 May, 2012 2nd Bit of a beast
with Dan and Kris
Bit of a beast
with Dan and Kris
Stone Muppet 23 May, 2012 2nd O/S
with Owain, dan ely
with Owain, dan ely
dan ely 23 May, 2012 Lead
with crispin, owian
with crispin, owian
HIGHTOWER 28 Mar, 2012 AltLd dnf Seconded 1st pitch, but couldn't work out the 2nd, plus wasn't really feeling it. Must go back.
Seconded 1st pitch, but couldn't work out the 2nd, plus wasn't really feeling it. Must go back.
Hidden ??, 2012 -
Hidden ?Jul, 2011 Lead O/S
Hidden 3 Jun, 2011 AltLd
Simon Allcock 2 Jun, 2011 Lead 1st pitch only
with Wilki
1st pitch only
with Wilki
Hidden ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
PAJames ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
nigel pearson 22 May, 2010 AltLd O/S crack was wet in places. Good old fashioned struggle. Did it with hexes, protection was possible but harder to arrange than cams
with Robin
crack was wet in places. Good old fashioned struggle. Did it with hexes, protection was possible but harder to arrange than cams
with Robin
Hidden ??, 2010 -
zukator ??, 2010 Lead
beci tointen ?Jul, 2009 Lead O/S
gregoritos ?Jun, 2009 Lead O/S
with fox
with fox
Danos 15 Jun, 2008 AltLd dnf led P1, didn't have sufficient large gear for P2
with Ben
led P1, didn't have sufficient large gear for P2
with Ben
Marcus ??, 2008 -
barni 18 Apr, 2007 AltLd
with Paul James
with Paul James
Hidden 17 Jun, 2006 AltLd
Mihkel 10 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S Rich led approach pitch then I led main pitch. Aerobic! Probably my best lead to date at the time. Didn't have any big cams so many small nut placements. Graded HVS at time.
with Rich Patterson
Rich led approach pitch then I led main pitch. Aerobic! Probably my best lead to date at the time. Didn't have any big cams so many small nut placements. Graded HVS at time.
with Rich Patterson
mike lawrence? ??, 2006 -
Neil McA 16 Jul, 2005 Lead O/S Dramatic! This was the 4th (and final!) route of the day, pitch 10. The old guidebook said HVS. Hmmm. In my tired state it felt quite committing and strenuous. great pitch but not to be underestimated, it left a far greater impression than November did earlier in the day (when fresh).
with Ivan Green
Dramatic! This was the 4th (and final!) route of the day, pitch 10. The old guidebook said HVS. Hmmm. In my tired state it felt quite committing and strenuous. great pitch but not to be underestimated, it left a far greater impression than November did earlier in the day (when fresh).
with Ivan Green
sadams 22 May, 2004 2nd
with Hugh Cottom
with Hugh Cottom
Small and weak ?May, 2004 AltLd
andybirtwistle 15 Aug, 2003 2nd O/S
with Ian Murray, Mike Arnold
with Ian Murray, Mike Arnold
WB ??, 2000 AltLd O/S one of my best days climbing ever. did lithrig, octo and vember. then went to the pub and chatted with Joe Brown about the routes. And got my photo taken on Octo which is now in the cloggy guide.
with Paul
one of my best days climbing ever. did lithrig, octo and vember. then went to the pub and chatted with Joe Brown about the routes. And got my photo taken on Octo which is now in the cloggy guide.
with Paul
Ched ??, 1998 Lead O/S
with Glanfor
with Glanfor
Hidden ??, 1998 Lead
Derek Ryden ??, 1997 Lead O/S
with Dave the Leg
with Dave the Leg
bruce ??, 1996 - Seem to remember a bit of a tussle on this?
with Gareth
Seem to remember a bit of a tussle on this?
with Gareth
MikePycroft ?May, 1995 Lead O/S
with Denis May
with Denis May
Rob Davies ?May, 1995 2nd Date?
with Pete Hemmings
Date?
with Pete Hemmings
Hidden 28 Apr, 1993 AltLd
Darron ??, 1990 -
with Jez
with Jez
wynaptomos ?May, 1989 2nd O/S
michael burrows 5 Jun, 1988 AltLd O/S led 1st pitch
with ket
led 1st pitch
with ket
pauldrew ??, 1988 AltLd Late 80's
Late 80's
charlesmfrench 27 May, 1987 2nd O/S
uphillnow ?May, 1987 Lead Tried one before, but it was wet.
Tried one before, but it was wet.
Martin Bennett 27 May, 1983 -
with RA
with RA
Mark Kemball 19 Jul, 1982 AltLd
with Dave Abbey
with Dave Abbey
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden 3 Jun, 1978 AltLd
granitbahn ??, 1978 AltLd
Ian Jones ??, 1978 AltLd O/S Desperate if you can't jam! Nice to see it upgraded, I must revisit.
with Paul Stott
Desperate if you can't jam! Nice to see it upgraded, I must revisit.
with Paul Stott
Dave Musgrove 15 Oct, 1977 AltLd
with Jim Worthington
with Jim Worthington
mikej 9 Aug, 1976 AltLd Hard work for a Hard VS.
with Mike Byles
Hard work for a Hard VS.
with Mike Byles
RichardMc 6 Jul, 1974 2nd O/S
with Dave Langmead
with Dave Langmead
Gordon Stainforth 6 Sep, 1972 AltLd dnf In drizzle. John fell off leading crux. Abbed off.
with John Stainforth
In drizzle. John fell off leading crux. Abbed off.
with John Stainforth
Rick51 19 Sep, 1971 AltLd
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Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 16
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 15
Votes cast 17
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
DNF
Dogged
Ground Up
Not Set