Rockfax Description
A long and challenging route with three big pitches up the Great Wall. Like Right Wall and Lord, the route is considered easier when someone has done the hard work and chalked it up for you. Start on a small grassy ledge halfway between Great Wall and November.
1) 6a, 26m. Trend up and left making your way towards ledges and a peg. Move up and slightly right to a wire looped over an old bolt. Move up and slightly left to a peg hidden in a flake/groove on the left (easy to miss). A hard laybacking type move and reach lead over a bulge to where a line of holds lead leftwards to just above the belay of Great Wall, step down and belay.
2) 6a, 23m. Follow Great Wall up the groove for about 10m, to a move left onto a tiny ledge on the wall. A thin and technical wall above leads to holds that track left to the belay on Daurigol.
3) 6a, 28m. Easy climbing leads up and left towards Chimney Route - stop just before this. Head up to the steep arete - a side-runner to the right protects the initial steep section. A powerful series of moves up this leads to an easing in both angle and difficulty. Collapse onto the ledge above knowing you have just completed one of the best E6s in the country. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Super Route E6's, Extreme Rock, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, North Wales Rock Graded List, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, 100 or so good E6s - aye Caff, Cloggy soul searching routes, Wales Ticklist

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
ferdia 13 Jun, 2018 Lead β Abbed past this off the top of great Wall and thought it looked amazing. Probably as it was nice and chalked. I checked where the top peg was hidden, and caff mentioned there was some gear to be found other than the in situ bits. Really enjoyable. Didn't want it to end. Squeezed in just a the recent incredible spell of weather starting breaking.... very apt.
with James Mchaffie
Abbed past this off the top of great Wall and thought it looked amazing. Probably as it was nice and chalked. I checked where the top peg was hidden, and caff mentioned there was some gear to be found other than the in situ bits. Really enjoyable. Didn't want it to end. Squeezed in just a the recent incredible spell of weather starting breaking.... very apt.
with James Mchaffie
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 2nd
Hidden 10 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
millsy 26 Aug, 2017 2nd β Delicate slab climbing - amazing route. A bold lead. p1 only
with Craig Smith
Delicate slab climbing - amazing route. A bold lead. p1 only
with Craig Smith
soph 3 Jul, 2015 AltLd O/S
morganator 3 Jul, 2015 AltLd I lead 1st and 3rd pitches. First pitch felt like the meat of the E6, although apparently an E5 pitch. Very spaced in situ gear. Second pitch run out but safe, 3rd pitch safe with good gear and just a short hard sequence. Annoyingly fell off the top pitch. Cool route!
with soph
I lead 1st and 3rd pitches. First pitch felt like the meat of the E6, although apparently an E5 pitch. Very spaced in situ gear. Second pitch run out but safe, 3rd pitch safe with good gear and just a short hard sequence. Annoyingly fell off the top pitch. Cool route!
with soph
nathanlee 29 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S P1 only. Will be back. One of the best pitches I've ever done without doubt. Without ever being desperate its also never easy, immaculate!
with Anna G
P1 only. Will be back. One of the best pitches I've ever done without doubt. Without ever being desperate its also never easy, immaculate!
with Anna G
Hidden 23 Jun, 2014 Lead β
Ed Booth 23 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S P1 only. Class. Bold. Felt same as the Cad and Rainbow of Recalcitrance.
with anguskille, Nick Dixon
P1 only. Class. Bold. Felt same as the Cad and Rainbow of Recalcitrance.
with anguskille, Nick Dixon
Hidden 14 Jul, 2013 AltLd
Hidden 26 May, 2012 2nd O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?May, 2012 Lead O/S Led all three pitches
with Helena Robinson
Led all three pitches
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 26 Jun, 2010 Lead O/S
barni 20 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S 1st and second
1st and second
Luke Brooks 20 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S On Misummer's day! Led 1 and 3.
with barni
On Misummer's day! Led 1 and 3.
with barni
Alex Mason 26 May, 2010 Lead O/S Led second pitch. Sustained route with all pitches being E5, except maybe the top which is just about E6 in its own right, maybe. Brilliant, found first pitch thin and sustained, Second pitch had a good fun run-out. And the third has a scary steep section to finish.
with George Ullrich
Led second pitch. Sustained route with all pitches being E5, except maybe the top which is just about E6 in its own right, maybe. Brilliant, found first pitch thin and sustained, Second pitch had a good fun run-out. And the third has a scary steep section to finish.
with George Ullrich
Hidden 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S
Hidden 22 May, 2010 2nd O/S
lukehunt 2 Jun, 2009 Lead O/S first pitch.
with The Master!, Tom Brookes
first pitch.
with The Master!, Tom Brookes
IOAN D 24 May, 2008 Lead O/S soft E5, not E6 by a long shot
with Mills
soft E5, not E6 by a long shot
with Mills
Steve Crowe 17 Apr, 2003 Lead β 1st Pitch Only
with karin
1st Pitch Only
with karin
sharpie ?Aug, 2001 2nd O/S
with Martyn
with Martyn
jfletcher 13 Sep, 1990 Lead O/S Pitch 1 only (E5)
Pitch 1 only (E5)
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
donie ??, 1990 -
Neil McA 11 Jun, 1988 2nd O/S Dave led all 3 pitches. Lovely to second! Good climbing, indifferent line.
with Ian Cooksey, Dave Green
Dave led all 3 pitches. Lovely to second! Good climbing, indifferent line.
with Ian Cooksey, Dave Green
mark mcgowan01 ?Jul, 1986 AltLd O/S wearing size 7 fires - 1 size too big with thick football socks - not the best... awesome route
with Andy Popp
wearing size 7 fires - 1 size too big with thick football socks - not the best... awesome route
with Andy Popp
Melok ??, 1985 -
Mike Owen 17 Jul, 1983 Lead O/S
with Al Simpson
with Al Simpson
Phil Davidson ??, 1982 Lead O/S
Hidden 28 Jul, 1977 2nd
Hidden ??, 1973 -
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Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
Votes cast 5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 6
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Not Set
Onsighted
Flashed (β)
Not Set