Rockfax Description
A magnificent, long crack-line that defines the right-hand edge of the Great Wall. Start on the grassy terrace below the crack that bounds the Great Wall on its right.
1) 5a, 25m. The Drainpipe Crack is often wet. This leads to a stance on the ramp on the right. Big cams can help with the unnerving start and provide benefit beyond.
2) 5c, 38m. Move back left and continue up the increasingly-steep crack to a grassy ledge.
3) 5a, 20m. Climb the corner (tricky) then easier cracks to the Eastern Terrace. © Rockfax

Ticklists

North Wales Rock Graded List, North Wales E3's, Alex's Wales ticklist, Ultimate E3 ticklist, The 30 best E3 routes in the UK?, The best the UK has to offer for beasts (apart from the lakes cos its always wet)

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Logged Ascents

User Date Style Notes & Partners
wolf.leeb 7 Jul Lead O/S Mega route, lovely layaway moves with buckets of gear. Kudos to Brown in 57
with greg
Mega route, lovely layaway moves with buckets of gear. Kudos to Brown in 57
with greg
Hidden 15 May AltLd O/S
Jono_1989 15 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S P2
P2
Hidden 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
cem 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led p 1 & 3.
with Paul Clarkson
Led p 1 & 3.
with Paul Clarkson
Dizz 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
matt1024 14 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led pitch one and three. Drainpipe crack nice and dry! Spectacular climb.
with Luke Doherty
Led pitch one and three. Drainpipe crack nice and dry! Spectacular climb.
with Luke Doherty
Andy Peak 1 10 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S The Lady had it Rhite HVS but I might of bean qwite psyched to do it, either way amazing route
The Lady had it Rhite HVS but I might of bean qwite psyched to do it, either way amazing route
JackM92 9 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Another brilliant Cloggy route. Led the main pitch. Kept expecting it to get hard but it doesn’t, feet are virtually always good although there aren’t many rests.
Another brilliant Cloggy route. Led the main pitch. Kept expecting it to get hard but it doesn’t, feet are virtually always good although there aren’t many rests.
Tala A 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led 2nd pitch. Pumpy amazing climbing!! Top pitch was more gymnastic than expected.
Led 2nd pitch. Pumpy amazing climbing!! Top pitch was more gymnastic than expected.
Hidden 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd
The Grist 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Led the two easier pitches. Good lead by Dan.
with Dan Metcalfe
Led the two easier pitches. Good lead by Dan.
with Dan Metcalfe
manwithacam 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Beautiful conditions on the crag today, got on this about 7pm just as the sun came onto it. An excellent climb, the second pitch goes on and on. 3rd pitch pretty hard!
with the grist
Beautiful conditions on the crag today, got on this about 7pm just as the sun came onto it. An excellent climb, the second pitch goes on and on. 3rd pitch pretty hard!
with the grist
Graeme Hammond 8 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
with Chris Hindley
with Chris Hindley
Hidden 7 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
pete johnson 5 Jul, 2018 2nd rpt
MikePycroft 5 Jul, 2018 AltLd rpt Led p2 steady lead good holds and gear
Led p2 steady lead good holds and gear
Martin Cooper 1 Jul, 2018 Lead O/S Led P2. Steady, just as Neil said- the holds and the gear keep coming. No hands rest at the bottom of the "little chimney". P3 awkward.
with Dave Sykes
Led P2. Steady, just as Neil said- the holds and the gear keep coming. No hands rest at the bottom of the "little chimney". P3 awkward.
with Dave Sykes
Michael Bortoluzzi 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S Lead p2. Was a mega fight for me! Thought I was off a couple of times. Chuffed I kept fighting! Don't know if it was because it was the 4th climb of the day or that it's not a grade I'm steady at, but the pitch felt tough.
Lead p2. Was a mega fight for me! Thought I was off a couple of times. Chuffed I kept fighting! Don't know if it was because it was the 4th climb of the day or that it's not a grade I'm steady at, but the pitch felt tough.
Richard Kendrick 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd O/S
Hidden 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd
davesykes 1 Jul, 2018 AltLd Stamina fest on P2 - well led by coops - traverse into bottom of crack on P2 straightforward and avoids faff - P3 surprisingly strenous/aerobic
Stamina fest on P2 - well led by coops - traverse into bottom of crack on P2 straightforward and avoids faff - P3 surprisingly strenous/aerobic
Hidden 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S
Flavio 30 Jun, 2018 Lead O/S Zoomed up this at the end of a long day on a pink Cloggy sunset when everyone had finally buggered off (did 300m+ of climbing whilst waiting to get on this!) Felt easy enough that I thought was off route. Had the whole buttress to ourselves, an experience I won't forget. (Lakes E2- innit!)
Zoomed up this at the end of a long day on a pink Cloggy sunset when everyone had finally buggered off (did 300m+ of climbing whilst waiting to get on this!) Felt easy enough that I thought was off route. Had the whole buttress to ourselves, an experience I won't forget. (Lakes E2- innit!)
JendeHoxar 30 Jun, 2018 2nd O/S
with Flavio
with Flavio
Misha 30 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Eszter ran up the main pitch and declared it to be HVS. I seconded quickly and found it good but not as hard as advertised. Probably worth E3 or at least hard E2 rather than HVS though! All dry. Led P1 which I’d done a couple of times before and P3 which was awkward as per the guidebook.
with eszter
Eszter ran up the main pitch and declared it to be HVS. I seconded quickly and found it good but not as hard as advertised. Probably worth E3 or at least hard E2 rather than HVS though! All dry. Led P1 which I’d done a couple of times before and P3 which was awkward as per the guidebook.
with eszter
Hidden 29 Jun, 2018 2nd
Hidden 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S
Martin Bagshaw 23 Jun, 2018 AltLd O/S Led crux pitch 2. A happy beneficiary of the Porter altruism, transporting me up the soggy first and last pitches, and giving me all the encouragement I needed for the middle. Great route.
Led crux pitch 2. A happy beneficiary of the Porter altruism, transporting me up the soggy first and last pitches, and giving me all the encouragement I needed for the middle. Great route.
ferdia 11 Jun, 2018 2nd
with Dan Macmanus, James Mchaffie
with Dan Macmanus, James Mchaffie
pie_eater_pete 26 May, 2017 AltLd O/S
Kris2fa 25 Mar, 2017 2nd O/S
with Adam24B
with Adam24B
Adam24B 25 Mar, 2017 Lead O/S Fantastic sustained crux pitch in an incredible position, didn't expect cloggy to be in nick due to the snow sat on everything higher up, turned out to be bone dry!
with Kris2fa
Fantastic sustained crux pitch in an incredible position, didn't expect cloggy to be in nick due to the snow sat on everything higher up, turned out to be bone dry!
with Kris2fa
Hidden ??, 2017 -
Hidden 27 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Tom Ripley 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Mark Stevenson 17 Aug, 2016 AltLd O/S
Sardien 5 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S Really good! Led P1, P2 felt great on a second, pumpy all the way but never too much
with Kate, Andy Scott
Really good! Led P1, P2 felt great on a second, pumpy all the way but never too much
with Kate, Andy Scott
robpartridge 4 Jun, 2016 AltLd O/S
with Helen
with Helen
wi11 16 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Stunning climb! No hard moves
with Emma T
Stunning climb! No hard moves
with Emma T
Alex Mason 12 Jun, 2015 Lead O/S P1 + P2 strung together with 60m ropes. A much better climb this way. Fantastic line.
P1 + P2 strung together with 60m ropes. A much better climb this way. Fantastic line.
Ram MkiV 11 Jun, 2015 2nd O/S
with noaks, Al
with noaks, Al
James Oakes 11 Jun, 2015 AltLd O/S Lead top pitch
Lead top pitch
Hidden ??, 2015 AltLd
Hannes B 26 Jul, 2014 AltLd O/S pt.2
with wil
pt.2
with wil
Wil Treasure 26 Jul, 2014 AltLd Led P1 and 3
Led P1 and 3
mes32 2 Jul, 2014 AltLd Led P1 which was a bit scary. P2 very hard work with rucsac. P3 crazy contortions.
with Wilki
Led P1 which was a bit scary. P2 very hard work with rucsac. P3 crazy contortions.
with Wilki
Stig 30 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Led P2+3. Battle all the way for me, not fit.. Didn't find it particularly restful at any point. No discernible crux though.
with Chris
Led P2+3. Battle all the way for me, not fit.. Didn't find it particularly restful at any point. No discernible crux though.
with Chris
chrishedgehog 30 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S CH: P1 JR: P2 +3. Pitch 1 was almost completely dry so it was less of a drainpipe, more a lovely *** VS in it's own right. P2 pumpy with lots of good holds, some nearly rests, no actual rests and did I say pumpy? I did spend a lot of time wiggling gear out though. Impeccable quality route.
with James Rees
CH: P1 JR: P2 +3. Pitch 1 was almost completely dry so it was less of a drainpipe, more a lovely *** VS in it's own right. P2 pumpy with lots of good holds, some nearly rests, no actual rests and did I say pumpy? I did spend a lot of time wiggling gear out though. Impeccable quality route.
with James Rees
Duncan Campbell 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S Led pitch 2 - brilliant climbing very reminiscent of The Strand at Gogarth, and as good! Slightly harder moves and less opportunities for gear makes this a little harder than the strand though it is still a soft touch for E3...
with Hazel Findlay
Led pitch 2 - brilliant climbing very reminiscent of The Strand at Gogarth, and as good! Slightly harder moves and less opportunities for gear makes this a little harder than the strand though it is still a soft touch for E3...
with Hazel Findlay
w.pettet-smith 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd
simon kimber 21 Jun, 2014 AltLd O/S
alexjz 15 Jun, 2014 Lead O/S Lead P2 such a brilliant pitch. Felt steady. P1&3 very soggy
with George Ullrich
Lead P2 such a brilliant pitch. Felt steady. P1&3 very soggy
with George Ullrich
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Bob ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
mike mo ??, 2014 -
Hidden 27 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
The old James turnbull 23 Jul, 2013 Lead O/S
with will sim
with will sim
Glyn 21 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S
with Tom Skelhon
with Tom Skelhon
Simon Davis 19 Jul, 2013 AltLd
with Tim P
with Tim P
Hidden 17 Jul, 2013 Lead
dswansonlow 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S first and last pitches.
first and last pitches.
HAJ Francis 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead P2, pumpy climbing but good rests and good gear, so not too bad.
Lead P2, pumpy climbing but good rests and good gear, so not too bad.
shed_hed 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Led the middle pitch. Felt quite steady with ok rests between good gear.
Led the middle pitch. Felt quite steady with ok rests between good gear.
Stuart_Burbidge 13 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S Lead 1 + 3
Lead 1 + 3
Lenny 10 Jul, 2013 AltLd O/S lead 2nd pitch
with Steve
lead 2nd pitch
with Steve
thebigeasy 1 Jun, 2013 Lead Great route but could do with seeing some more traffic as very dirty. Lots of lichen on the second pitch but great fun and great position on the wall.
Great route but could do with seeing some more traffic as very dirty. Lots of lichen on the second pitch but great fun and great position on the wall.
Pete Graham ?May, 2012 AltLd O/S
with Howard Lawledge
with Howard Lawledge
Ledgelaw ?May, 2012 Lead
with Pete Graham
with Pete Graham
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden ??, 2011 -
Hidden 22 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S
Luke Brooks 4 Jun, 2010 AltLd O/S Led P2
with Owain
Led P2
with Owain
Ows ?Jun, 2010 AltLd
frank ramsay ?Jun, 2010 AltLd superb sustained laybacking fun on good holds.
superb sustained laybacking fun on good holds.
Hidden 26 May, 2010 AltLd
khawk 22 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with datoon
with datoon
feilx 22 May, 2010 Lead O/S
datoon 22 May, 2010 AltLd O/S
with K
with K
soph 1 Jan, 2010 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??, 2010 Lead O/S P1 + P2 climbed as a single 60m pitch
with Kat Spinney
P1 + P2 climbed as a single 60m pitch
with Kat Spinney
morganator 7 Jun, 2008 AltLd O/S
with soph
with soph
Hidden 8 Jun, 2007 Lead
Tom Briggs 10 Jun, 2006 AltLd O/S
with Andy Cave
with Andy Cave
dan gibson 10 Jun, 2006 Lead O/S
steveb2006 4 Jun, 2006 Lead Lead first 2 pitches.
with Pete Carter
Lead first 2 pitches.
with Pete Carter
Neil McA 16 Jul, 2005 AltLd O/S Led the crux pitch
with Ivan Green
Led the crux pitch
with Ivan Green
Dave Musgrove Jnr ?Jul, 2003 AltLd O/S
phil64 ??, 2003 Lead O/S Lovely
Lovely
MikePycroft ?Jul, 1999 Lead O/S
with Malc C
with Malc C
Kev Little ??, 1999 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??, 1999 -
Hidden 28 Jun, 1995 AltLd
pete johnson 23 Jul, 1994 AltLd O/S
with Steve Findlay
with Steve Findlay
shoulders ?Jun, 1994 2nd O/S
with sharpie
with sharpie
Mike Owen 16 May, 1992 AltLd rpt
with Al Phizackerlea
with Al Phizackerlea
uphillnow 8 Sep, 1991 Lead Led whole route. Whilst on crux a leader fell off first pitch of Vember
with john stanger
Led whole route. Whilst on crux a leader fell off first pitch of Vember
with john stanger
Billg ??, 1991 Lead O/S
with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory
with Jon Barton, Dave Gregory
michael burrows 13 May, 1990 AltLd O/S led 2nd pitch
with brian jones
led 2nd pitch
with brian jones
wynaptomos ?Jul, 1989 2nd O/S
charlesmfrench 18 Jun, 1988 AltLd O/S Led second pitch.
with Tony Lewis
Led second pitch.
with Tony Lewis
Melok ??, 1985 -
Dave Turnbull 19 May, 1984 Lead O/S Brilliant 1st visit to Cloggy
with Martin?
Brilliant 1st visit to Cloggy
with Martin?
Dave Musgrove 6 May, 1984 AltLd It felt as cold as November!
with Kim Greenald
It felt as cold as November!
with Kim Greenald
Hidden ??, 1984 AltLd
Ian Jones ?Sep, 1983 Lead O/S After Pistolero this felt like a path. Maybe it is.
with Chris Gore
After Pistolero this felt like a path. Maybe it is.
with Chris Gore
Hidden 31 Aug, 1983 Lead
Hidden 22 Aug, 1983 Lead
Mark Kemball 5 Jul, 1983 AltLd
with Matt Boyer
with Matt Boyer
Brian Wilderspin ?Jun, 1983 AltLd O/S
Steve Clegg ?Jun, 1983 AltLd
Hidden ??, 1983 Lead
Andy Nicholson ?Aug, 1980 Lead O/S
with JR
with JR
sharpie ?Aug, 1980 Lead O/S
with John Harwood
with John Harwood
andy gittins ??, 1980 -
Hidden ??, 1980 Lead
Hidden ??, 1980 -
Phil Davidson 30 May, 1978 Lead O/S
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Voting
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Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
Votes cast 32
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
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Votes cast 28
Votes cast 23
Style of Ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
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Onsighted
Repeated
Not Set